PaulytheReefer - Rimless Starfire Build Thread

Thanks for the great advise! The top is easily removed, it just lays on the top of the tank.

I think I will try a small one and see how it goes. An Achiles would be my choice for a center piece fish in this tank. If he doesn't do well then I have a friend who has a 180 that it would do well in.
 
I took a couple of pictures of some of my chalices tonight. The Emerald Mummy Eye has really taken off, a coupleof months ago it was 12 eyes and now its well over 20.

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Paul, looking good on the build. If I recall, I think I sold you some pieces last fall - I'd like to swing by and check out the setup some time. I am getting a build going this summer on a 125 rimless...stand is in progress already. I should be posting the progress....but work, laziness, oof.
 
And on these rimless tanks, I am condsidering putting eggcrate under the rocks to displace the load of the rocks.....how did you mitigate this issue on your tank? If the sand is only deep enough to cover the eggcrate (~1") I wonder if there would be any issues with detritus build up since each square may act as a hole and not let detritus move laterally. Maybe I am overthinking the room.


I was considering using the blue styrofoam type insulation you see on houses to provide some minimal give for the support of the rimless tank's bottom:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=127129-46086-669153&lpage=none

I have used it before, but on a traditional 92 corner bowfront and it gave surprisingly little. except around the rim - where the weight was concentrated.

What kind of foam did you use again?
 
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I used 3/4 inch builders foam from Lowes. The builder of the tank required it between the solid top of the stand and the bottom of the tank. I didn't use any eggcrate, just a shallow layer of sand and then the rock. My tank was built with the side pieces around the bottom but the sides and the front and back are flush with the bottom piece of glass. The thickness of the silicone between the pieces of glass is very impressive.
 
Love the tank and dimensions! What size Bubble King are you running, and are you pleased with it? Thanks! :)
 
I run the mini 160 and I love it. Its quiet and it makes some really smelly nog. It clears the house out when I clean it out.
 
very nice build. i'm looking to get a tank with the same dimensions.

what kind of return pump are you using?

do you plan to add a 2nd vortech?
 
I am using the Ehiem 1262 as the return, it feeds my Calcium reactor and it will feed my phosphate and carbon reactor too. I had the loudone 6000 and it was really loud! I can't beleive they call it a quietone. Right now I am getting plenty of flow with the 1 Vortech, but will add a second one soon because as the sps grow I want to have enough flow to keep them happy.
 
We had our annual frag swap last weekend. I sold a ton of corals but spent everything I made on new corals, I'm very pleased with the corals I found though. I bought a sweet acan and the tyree watermelon chalice that I have been looking for for a while now. I also came home with a pokerstar monti, tyree undata. I'll have to get a picture up of the new additions.
 
Oops, I accidently broke the in let off the calcium reactor. I had to stick my thumb in the hole until the wife could come help get the leak under control. I'm going to post this in the DIY forum to see how I shoud go about fixing it. I think I might just find a piece of pipe that will slide into the two pieces to attach them back together, and then glue it into the 2 broken pieces. What do you think I should do?

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It looks like an area that may be under quite a bit of stress, but I'm not seeing the entire reactor. PVC can be glued to PVC with the cement, so technically it should mend. However, the outer section of plumbing will probably need to be supported.

The other option is to carefully remove what is left in the reactor, and glue in some new PVC in that spot. Just use the PVC solvent, without the primer. Let it cure for 24 hours before getting it wet again.

EDIT: It looks like a threaded fitting. If that is the case, you should be able to screw in the new piece where the old one was. Just be very careful in removing the old, trying not to damage the reactor's acrylic.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14892466#post14892466 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
It looks like an area that may be under quite a bit of stress, but I'm not seeing the entire reactor. PVC can be glued to PVC with the cement, so technically it should mend. However, the outer section of plumbing will probably need to be supported.

The other option is to carefully remove what is left in the reactor, and glue in some new PVC in that spot. Just use the PVC solvent, without the primer. Let it cure for 24 hours before getting it wet again.

EDIT: It looks like a threaded fitting. If that is the case, you should be able to screw in the new piece where the old one was. Just be very careful in removing the old, trying not to damage the reactor's acrylic.

That was my first thought, to use the dremmel to take out the old broken piece. But the I thought since the reactor is a fairly slow flow why not just use a smaller pipe to splint it?
 
Not to distract from my calcium reactor problem, but I promised pics of the corals from last weekends swap. Here they are.

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I don't know that you can split it, but if you did it would have to be internal.

If you dremel it, I would suggest you carefully cut it in a few different areas, to remove a piece at a time. Once you pluck out the first one or two 'slices', it will be easier to get out the rest.

How did it break?

EDIT: I like three of the four. :D
 
I'm sure the wife was happy to help ya out with the leak ... She seemed like good sport haulin' all your stuff in at the swap :D:D
 
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