brandon429
Well-known member
Thank you it sounds like you had an unreasonably tough run!!
pico reef pest algae problem challenge
- Thread starter brandon429
- Start date
needmorecowbell
New member
Finally found the thread. Didn't know where the nano section was lol.
I'm not able to remove the two rocks from the tank, what should I do? They aren't covered in bryo, just tufts in the crevices. Can I dose in tank?
I also have a zoa frag that is covered in it. I'm guessing that's where it came from. I can remove it, just do a peroxide dip?
I'm not able to remove the two rocks from the tank, what should I do? They aren't covered in bryo, just tufts in the crevices. Can I dose in tank?
I also have a zoa frag that is covered in it. I'm guessing that's where it came from. I can remove it, just do a peroxide dip?
brandon429
Well-known member
Hi! I need a full tank shot to see the right approach
Lift out and externally treat what you can where possible. Based on your pics we may use approaches like underwater spot treating, posts above show simple tank dosing, there are many ways
The more pics we get the better the cure thanks for considering
B
Lift out and externally treat what you can where possible. Based on your pics we may use approaches like underwater spot treating, posts above show simple tank dosing, there are many ways
The more pics we get the better the cure thanks for considering
B
needmorecowbell
New member
This is the fts at the very beginning (about 7 months ago). I posted this to show you where all the rocks are, they have stayed in there place but a lot if sps and others have been added. The main problem areas are the left side
And the right side. There are to bigger slanted rocks on either side, those are them. I have one rock on the top left that has it, but it can be removed. It has an acan and zoas on it. The sides can't be removed, it would make the whole thing fall. The sides have mushrooms, frogspawn, birdnest colony, acan, and palythoa on them. If you want me to, i can post on my other thread, don't want to clutter this one up unless you want it.
brandon429
Well-known member
I don't mind posting here at all we like to collect the pics in one place
Two good news points-your infestation is so light I can't even tell you have a problem
And the cure is simple. Pretty much one treatment and its fixed, if it comes back in a few months treat again so very little in reefkeeping is one off. There is no way id look to strip nutrients out of that tank or jack the magnesium, tank is clean as a whistle. In earlier posts here we discuss how bryopsis, algae grows in low nutrient conditions I don't believe that's the solution in a huge percentage of cases.
So the treatment, do you have any cleaner shrimp in the tank, and to save a ton of work can you just lift out the rocks even with corals and briefly wet/rinse off the target area patches with a little directed drip of peroxide? In tank dosing will require extra planning but this is fast.
Two good news points-your infestation is so light I can't even tell you have a problem
And the cure is simple. Pretty much one treatment and its fixed, if it comes back in a few months treat again so very little in reefkeeping is one off. There is no way id look to strip nutrients out of that tank or jack the magnesium, tank is clean as a whistle. In earlier posts here we discuss how bryopsis, algae grows in low nutrient conditions I don't believe that's the solution in a huge percentage of cases.
So the treatment, do you have any cleaner shrimp in the tank, and to save a ton of work can you just lift out the rocks even with corals and briefly wet/rinse off the target area patches with a little directed drip of peroxide? In tank dosing will require extra planning but this is fast.
needmorecowbell
New member
This is when I first started. Here's a pic of it now..
I still have a very clean tank, If anything its overfiltered. I don't have any shrimp, should I get a cheap peppermint or something? I was going to get a flame hawkfish which eats shrimp, but that can wait of it needs to. Will a drop of peroxide hurt my zoas? I wouldn't think it would decide to pick the bryopsis instead of zooxanthellae algae, but maybe I'm missing something. How do you do in tank dosing? I would rather do that with the bigger pieces and take the smaller, main trouble spot out and dose.
I still have a very clean tank, If anything its overfiltered. I don't have any shrimp, should I get a cheap peppermint or something? I was going to get a flame hawkfish which eats shrimp, but that can wait of it needs to. Will a drop of peroxide hurt my zoas? I wouldn't think it would decide to pick the bryopsis instead of zooxanthellae algae, but maybe I'm missing something. How do you do in tank dosing? I would rather do that with the bigger pieces and take the smaller, main trouble spot out and dose.
brandon429
Well-known member
Laugh those are good pics to work with i'm brainstorming a few options, its packed I can see how you don't want to take it all down for external treatments but by all means start off by draining down as low as you will to expose target areas. If you can simply lift out and treat some of the top structures by all means hit what you can right off the bat. As the patches start to turn white you'll be motivated!
The corals you have, no prob for the in tank treatment. You can even catch and refill with the current water each time although any new water you want to input is only good.
Regardless of the method take days and weeks of tiny runs to clear the tank, this took months to establish there is no hurry and we'll work carefully around your sensitives
You would hit a patch or two, give a good while for dissipation before adding more peroxide in the next round.
The net effect of each in tank dose is a slight boost in dissolved oxygen, so we will be careful
not to exceed the shrimps maximum
I see a cleaner shrimp, that's your potential loss but honestly if you take several small treatments you likely have enough tank volume to dilute it out harmlessly.
Even submerged spot treatments with pumps off will begin to kill off any patch you underwater inject, small patches with a small amount of peroxide from a new bottle.
Underwater injection tools: look at this fine point pipette I posted, they cost five cents and can slowly inject tiny amounts of peroxide right at the base of a patch. Wait two days, hit another patch as the previous dies off, that's what I would do.
A diabetics syringe and needle from a pharmacy is the best, the plunger releases peroxide slowly and can inject deep at the base, but you have to endure the inevitable issues from the pharmacist of a non diabetic trying to buy
After a month of drain and treats/submerged spot runs it will die off. The key is to take long enough to not exceed the toxicity levels for the blood shrimp, its your sensitive to plan around. I strongly feel based on previous runs none of your included corals shown are of a concern. Let's watch the clam too but again not a listed sensitive
The drain and treats are worth the effort! It kills patches fast and uses the least...often times three drops per patch is all that's needed.
While drained, you can lay a paper towel wet w peroxide squared flat against the back glass, let sit for 2 mins then remove and refill
This can also be razor blade scraped as a non peroxide option
The corals you have, no prob for the in tank treatment. You can even catch and refill with the current water each time although any new water you want to input is only good.
Regardless of the method take days and weeks of tiny runs to clear the tank, this took months to establish there is no hurry and we'll work carefully around your sensitives
You would hit a patch or two, give a good while for dissipation before adding more peroxide in the next round.
The net effect of each in tank dose is a slight boost in dissolved oxygen, so we will be careful
not to exceed the shrimps maximum
I see a cleaner shrimp, that's your potential loss but honestly if you take several small treatments you likely have enough tank volume to dilute it out harmlessly.
Even submerged spot treatments with pumps off will begin to kill off any patch you underwater inject, small patches with a small amount of peroxide from a new bottle.
Underwater injection tools: look at this fine point pipette I posted, they cost five cents and can slowly inject tiny amounts of peroxide right at the base of a patch. Wait two days, hit another patch as the previous dies off, that's what I would do.
A diabetics syringe and needle from a pharmacy is the best, the plunger releases peroxide slowly and can inject deep at the base, but you have to endure the inevitable issues from the pharmacist of a non diabetic trying to buy
After a month of drain and treats/submerged spot runs it will die off. The key is to take long enough to not exceed the toxicity levels for the blood shrimp, its your sensitive to plan around. I strongly feel based on previous runs none of your included corals shown are of a concern. Let's watch the clam too but again not a listed sensitive
The drain and treats are worth the effort! It kills patches fast and uses the least...often times three drops per patch is all that's needed.
While drained, you can lay a paper towel wet w peroxide squared flat against the back glass, let sit for 2 mins then remove and refill
This can also be razor blade scraped as a non peroxide option
Attachments
Last edited:
brandon429
Well-known member
Cowbell I had asked about shrimp because they are sensitive to peroxide and can die
For the zos, we have easy success in applying 3% peroxide 50% diluted with saltwater on the target, wait two mins, rinse and reinstall, they won't be harmed
Always use a new bottle of peroxide not an old one
The submerged treatment is to turn off pumps, still the water, use a tool to spot inject a little peroxide right at the base of the algae tuft
Can you take any close up shots of algae so that after its dead we can clearly see the effect
For the zos, we have easy success in applying 3% peroxide 50% diluted with saltwater on the target, wait two mins, rinse and reinstall, they won't be harmed
Always use a new bottle of peroxide not an old one
The submerged treatment is to turn off pumps, still the water, use a tool to spot inject a little peroxide right at the base of the algae tuft
Can you take any close up shots of algae so that after its dead we can clearly see the effect
needmorecowbell
New member
Sure I'll take some closeups, although my algae is much more stringy than everyone else's. I'll be buying some h2o2 then! It will have to be in a little bit, going on vacation and don't want anything different going on with my tank.
brandon429
Well-known member
Yep good plan there is never a rush, after externally treating the zo's like we mentioned there are these take it slow spot treats underwater, stretch em out to be safe no prob!
needmorecowbell
New member
Should I do a half and half mixture with it everywhere? Or just On the corals?
Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.
Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.
brandon429
Well-known member
The half and half is for rocks/frags lifted out of the water because it will be too dilute to use it as a submerged spot treatment. In nearly all cases except zoanthids we try not to ever contact the peroxide directly to a coral polyp, we try to use it only on the target to reduce stress. This is why taking time to lift out target rocks is preferable to full tank dosing, although now that full tank dosing is becoming a preferred method to save time we have amassed several pics of mixed coral systems that tolerate the practice well. Unless the reef is bare rock only like above where huge amounts of peroxide can be input I recommend taking any full tank dosing out over periods of time to be on the safe side
jhawkor
New member
I have a couple of questions.
1) I am going to be transferring all the rock from my current tank to my new tank. Is it OK to dip each rock in a SW and Peroxide solution before moving them over?
2) Some of the rocks that need to be dipped are full of sponges. Will the Peroxide dip harm the invertebrate life on the rocks?
I've used peroxide dips to remove small amounts of Byropsis before, so I am confident it will work. I'm just not sure if i should dip all the rock in one day. Thanks.
1) I am going to be transferring all the rock from my current tank to my new tank. Is it OK to dip each rock in a SW and Peroxide solution before moving them over?
2) Some of the rocks that need to be dipped are full of sponges. Will the Peroxide dip harm the invertebrate life on the rocks?
I've used peroxide dips to remove small amounts of Byropsis before, so I am confident it will work. I'm just not sure if i should dip all the rock in one day. Thanks.
brandon429
Well-known member
That is a fine idea take us some pics if there's good growth! I have sponges in my tank that aren't affected, common lr sponges, but my contact time is really brief remember I do in tank treatments, fill up tank which is now technically a full tank treatment, and then since my tank is one gallon I drain all that contact water back out and replace with clean/fresh.
So since you are xferring rock why not just spot apply peroxide only on targets not collateral growth i'm nearly two years into treating and I bet most of my stuff has some sensitization in its favor
Thanks for posting
B
So since you are xferring rock why not just spot apply peroxide only on targets not collateral growth i'm nearly two years into treating and I bet most of my stuff has some sensitization in its favor
Thanks for posting
B
Brian DeGolier
New member
Hi Jim, I set up an ATS about 2 months ago, and it is very slowly growing algae and I am scraping more frequently, but it's not growing GHA. Did you try out the peroxide and ATS simultaneously? If so, what were the results? I assume I would have to take the ATS offline if I were to dose the whole DT. I assume the H202 kills other algaes as well?
A good ATS will fix your algae problems in short order. I had an oversized ATS in my sump and no algae in my display tank or sump. I was given about 50 Lbs of live rock from a friend who was getting out. His tank was neglected and his rock was covered in algae. I just placed all of it in my sump and the algae on those rocks withered away and died off. It took a month but you could tell within a week that the algae on the rock was loosing out to the algae on the ATS. Without a doubt, a good ATS will starve the other algae in your tank.
That said, all the other methods of reducing algae work well too. This is just my experience.
That said, all the other methods of reducing algae work well too. This is just my experience.
brandon429
Well-known member
I agree, use one or the other or the ATS offline/back on after you are sure peroxide is dissipated. if it was me id use exclusively one or the other, ATS has a great track method and since its all natural its a respectable method. Adey and Santamonica would agree only they wouldn't reciprocate the appreciation for my preferred method lol
I like peroxide solely due to the quickness, natural approaches are very respectable in their own right, or methods that control phosphate for example. There are many ways to a clean tank!
I like peroxide solely due to the quickness, natural approaches are very respectable in their own right, or methods that control phosphate for example. There are many ways to a clean tank!
Brian DeGolier
New member
Thanks Brandon, especially for starting this awesome thread, I am very intrigued with this method. I plan to pull out a few rocks and dip them in HP solution and see what happens. The ATS is an experimental stage right now and in fact the algae has started to disappear...... but very very slowly. :thumbsup:
