PLEASE check out your intended fish purchases here first!

[snorvich]

Tank age is approx 2 months, tank size is 24g.
Parameters:
SG 1.025
ammonia- 0
nitrite- 0
nitrate- 0
pH-8.3

The hermit crabs were given to me by a friend who had too many because they had been producing in their tank..So they were already in the mood...haha They have only been in my tank for a week and a half though, so if they felt that comfortable that soon I must be doing something right huh?

Nice thought but not necessarily so.

And by not reef safe you mean the lobster will attack fish? or corals and other inverts?

Coral is probably safe

In your sized tank you can house about 4 smallish fish, five if you select properly. Start with one. I would suggest coming up with a fish plan, then pass it by this thread for compatibility analysis. It is best not to buy fish ad hoc I cannot begin to suggest fish as I would have no clue as to what the LFS would have and whether or not they would be compatible with your environment and each other. I would not suggest a mandarin in this sized tank.

 

[eledile]

Okay.

Well like I said, I'm not worried about having many fish. I knew from the moment I got the tank I wouldn't be able to have many fish due to the size of the tank..I wouldn't mind having a few gobies and that be all.

How about this, based on my interests, Gobies, Firefish, and shrimps, what are some of those species that would coexist peacefully, and fit my tank? I will then go to my LFS, ask about their availability, see what's available to me, and then go from there. How does that sound? Because really I have no clue what's compatible with eachother, as this is my first SW tank. And as much as I know the people at my LFS and I know they won't intentionally sell me fish that are incompatible, but I always like to have more than one person's opinions on a subject..

I know for sure I want a fire fish, and a pair of them would be preferred. So that will be my base fish. What would you suggest as beginner fish that are compatible with them, inverts, and corals?

 

[tralston]

120 Gallon stock list

120 Gallon stock list

We are just in the process of cycling a 120 Gallon Reef with approx 30 gallon sump. This will be our first ever saltwater fish tank. Skimmer is Euroreef RS135, 79 lbs base rock and 36 lbs of live rock. There will be an approx 2 inch deep sand bed. We plan to let the tank cycle for 8-12 weeks and have been attempting to put together a fish list. Don't want to make any mistakes right from the start. Here are our ideas so far:

1 or 2 - Gobies (Something like a Randall's goby and a Court Jester, Nothing that makes a mess)
1 - Royal Gramma, Blackcap Basslett or P. fridmani
1 - False Percula
1, 2 or 3 - Wrasses (McCosker's, Carpenter's, Red Tail, Linespot, Mystery, Tanaka's Pygmy, Melanurus) Wondering if one of each separate species may be kept with each other as well as about the wrasses eating cleaner shrimp
1 - Yellow Tang(or 1 other tang that can live in a 120 gallon 4x2x2)
1 - Mandarin Dragonett (Of Course once the tank is very well established)

Not sure if that is the appropriate level of bioload for this tank, or if we can add another, but that is what we have in mind for now.

Cleanup Crew
Assorted Snails
Cleaner Shrimp (worried about the wrasses)
Possibly a Fighting Conch
Possible Pistol Shrimp to form relationship with the Goby
Anything else?

Very open to criticism and advice
Thanks

 

[snorvich]

Okay.

Well like I said, I'm not worried about having many fish. I knew from the moment I got the tank I wouldn't be able to have many fish due to the size of the tank..I wouldn't mind having a few gobies and that be all.

How about this, based on my interests, Gobies, Firefish, and shrimps, what are some of those species that would coexist peacefully, and fit my tank? I will then go to my LFS, ask about their availability, see what's available to me, and then go from there. How does that sound? Because really I have no clue what's compatible with eachother, as this is my first SW tank. And as much as I know the people at my LFS and I know they won't intentionally sell me fish that are incompatible, but I always like to have more than one person's opinions on a subject..

I know for sure I want a fire fish, and a pair of them would be preferred. So that will be my base fish. What would you suggest as beginner fish that are compatible with them, inverts, and corals?

You are asking an impossible question; ujnless I go with you to your LFS which would be prohibitively expensive. Ok, get a shrimp goby pair, and a firefish. Tell me what else they have once you have visited.

 

[snorvich]

We are just in the process of cycling a 120 Gallon Reef with approx 30 gallon sump. This will be our first ever saltwater fish tank. Skimmer is Euroreef RS135, 79 lbs base rock and 36 lbs of live rock. There will be an approx 2 inch deep sand bed. We plan to let the tank cycle for 8-12 weeks and have been attempting to put together a fish list. Don't want to make any mistakes right from the start. Here are our ideas so far:

1 or 2 - Gobies (Something like a Randall's goby and a Court Jester, Nothing that makes a mess)
1 - Royal Gramma, Blackcap Basslett or P. fridmani
1 - False Percula
1, 2 or 3 - Wrasses (McCosker's, Carpenter's, Red Tail, Linespot, Mystery, Tanaka's Pygmy, Melanurus)Wondering if one of each separate species may be kept with each other as well as about the wrasses eating cleaner shrimp

mystery wrasses are not advised with flasher wrasses (or shrimp) Melanurus may not be shrimp safe.

1 - Yellow Tang(or 1 other tang that can live in a 120 gallon 4x2x2) I am not a fan of yellows and would normally prefer kole tang or other bristletooth but any tang should be added last
1 - Mandarin Dragonett (Of Course once the tank is very well established)

Not sure if that is the appropriate level of bioload for this tank, or if we can add another, but that is what we have in mind for now.

With the exception of comments, should be fine. Be sure to quarantine and added fish slowly to develop biocapacity.

Cleanup Crew
Assorted Snails
Cleaner Shrimp (worried about the wrasses)
Possibly a Fighting Conch
Possible Pistol Shrimp to form relationship with the Goby
Anything else?

Very open to criticism and advice
Thanks

 

[JTL]

100 gallon mixed. Currently have pair of clowns, midas blenny, tail spot, orchid dottyback, maxima clam, cleaner shrimp and a blood shrimp. Thinking of some combo of the following:
royal gamma, purple firefish, kole tang, anthias, bangai cardinal.
My concern about the tang is Ich.
Thanks for any suggestions!

 

[snorvich]

100 gallon mixed. Currently have pair of clowns, midas blenny, tail spot, orchid dottyback, maxima clam, cleaner shrimp and a blood shrimp. Thinking of some combo of the following:
royal gamma, purple firefish, kole tang, anthias, bangai cardinal.
My concern about the tang is Ich.
Thanks for any suggestions!

Well, i love gramma loretto, all firefish, and anthias. Your tank is a bit small for a group of anthias. However one o each of the preceding would work well. While bangai cardinals are interesting looking, they are not as interesting behaving as they look. Tangs are susceptible to cryptocaryon irritans (ich) but proper quarantine procedure can prevent that. All fish should really be quarantined.

 

[snorvich]

JTL, I just noticed you are rimless. Unless you have a cover with 1/4 inch holes, firefish have a propensity to jump.

 

[JTL]

Steve,
I learned to cover the hard way but thanks for the heads up. My wife thought the bangahi was interesting, I don't really care for them. I agree with the quarantine and I am trying to get my purchases at the same time so I don't have to keep extending the time in quarantine. There is a lfs who has some of my choices in stock, they have been in copper for 2 weeks. If true I was thinking a couple of additional weeks in regular SW should be sufficient to see if there are problems. Do you agree? The last time I put fish in a QT I did it for about a month. The tang still scares me the most but I don't have a larger fish. Also do you think the firefish or gamma will be bothered by my orchid db?
Thanks!

 

[snorvich]

Steve,
I learned to cover the hard way but thanks for the heads up. My wife thought the bangahi was interesting, I don't really care for them. I agree with the quarantine and I am trying to get my purchases at the same time so I don't have to keep extending the time in quarantine. There is a lfs who has some of my choices in stock, they have been in copper for 2 weeks. If true I was thinking a couple of additional weeks in regular SW should be sufficient to see if there are problems. Do you agree? The last time I put fish in a QT I did it for about a month. The tang still scares me the most but I don't have a larger fish. Also do you think the firefish or gamma will be bothered by my orchid db?
Thanks!

A non-therapeutic dose of copper can mask some parasites such as oodinium. I NEVER trust any LFS or online FS to do quarantine. I always assume that whatever they did was not appropriate. If your wife likes the Bangai, I recommend getting it; been there done that and my wife likes "her" tank in the kitchen. I am NOT a big proponent of tangs despite their overwhelming popularity with many folks. There are many reasons why I do not stock them including aggression and size (and I have largish tanks).

 

[JTL]

Good advice. How long in a QT for inspection and no copper. Shouldn't Ich show up in a couple of weeks?

 

[snorvich]

Good advice. How long in a QT for inspection and no copper. Shouldn't Ich show up in a couple of weeks?

Not necessarily. Remember that visual observation of ich is not reliable as it most often goes into the gills. While not appropriate to this forum, my views on qarantine follow.

Quarantine (my opinion)

Q: Should I quarantine all fish?

A: Yes. Four weeks is a good window for observation of disease and parasites. All newly acquired fish will benefit from 4 weeks of time by themselves in the quarantine tank to recover from shipping/handling stress and to acclimate to your feeding regime. I feel that a quarantine tank should be different from a hospital or treatment tank. Quarantine tanks are for acclimation and observation, not treatment. A small one can be in service 24/7/365.

Q: What about corals, inverts, algae, and live rock?

A: Whjle I feel that the risk is very low unless they are coming from an infected tank, you can set up a separate QT for them. That tank must never see copper or any medications that may be harmful to corals and inverts. It doesn't need to be large, doesn't necessarily need a skimmer, but will need adequate light and water movement. 4 weeks of observation should help spot any unwanted hitch hikers and pests and to provide a fallow period for cryptocaryon irritans and oodinium which require a fish host quickly or they will die. But while it is possible a cyst could find it's way in on one of these nonfish specimens or the rock it's attached to, the normal chain of custody for these specimens makes the chances of infection very very slim . Unless they came from an infected tank and went right into your tank the likelihood of infecting a tank with cryptocaryon irritans when adding an invertebrate or rock are remote. The parasites usually leave the fish at night and settle on surfaces adjacent to where the fish sleeps The cyst usually remain viable for about 28 days. The longest recorded viability is 72 days in cold water. So by the time a wild specimen gets to your tank continued viability of any cyst that have settled there is likely long over. Brushing off surfaces with a tooth brush may be useful if you are concerned. In contrast, adding unquarantined fish carries a high risk.


Q. How big of a Quarantine Tank (QT) do I need?
A. Ideally large enough to permanently meet the needs of the largest fish you can expect to acquire. Realistically, as close to that size as you have room for.

Q: What filtration do I need for my QT?

A: The more the better. A skimmer is beneficial for oxygenating the water and in some cases can be run with medication in the water. A HOB filter adds more surface for bacteria to colonize as well as a place to run filter pads and carbon. A ball of chaetomorpha is a good idea provided there is light available. There's no substitute for live rock but keep in mind that copper as well as other medications will contaminate the rock permanently (never use it with inverts); I prefer to have live rock in my quarantine tank but obviously cannot do so for a hospital tank. Bottom line; use water changes to maintain water quality regardless of the filtration methods in place. I believe that a quarantine tank and hospital tank for treatment should be different tanks.

Q: How often should I change the water?
A: As often as necessary to maintain excellent water quality. Spend $5 and get an ammonia alert indicator so you're not caught off guard by an ammonia spike. If your quarantine tank is a cycled tank used only for observation, not treatment, I would do a water change on your normal schedule.


Q: How many fish can I keep in my QT?
A: There is no magic number but I prefer one fish by itself unless the fish come as a group such as a shoal of Apogon parvulus. Do your homework to understand which fish are compatible with each other, make sure there are enough hiding spaces for all fish to shelter in, and don't overload your filtration. Stress from fish interaction is highly undesirable during a quarantine period.


Q: How long should the quarantine process last?
A: Four weeks for observation is ample as it exceeds the life cycle of most parasites. If treatment beyond that is required it will depend on the treatment; usually 2-8 weeks. Technically speaking a QT would strictly be used for observation and rest period whereas a "Hospital Tank" would be used for treatment. As such the QT would more closely resemble an established tank, while the hospital tank would be very sterile with no surface that a parasite can attach to.

Q: Should I proceed with any treatments even if I don't see signs of disease?
A: Prophylactic treatment is a personal decision; I treat only if I see a problem. The primary reason for this is that hypo or copper is effective for ich but is not effective for other parasites such as oodinium. (I usually treat with Praziquantel (Prazipro) regardless of whether or not I see signs of parasites)

Q: How soon should I begin treatment?

A: Have the fish eating before starting treatment if possible. If there are signs of disease or parasites you may need to start treatment right away. Otherwise I wait until disease evidences itself before treating.

Q: How far in advance should I have the QT cycled an ready?
A: I keep an established QT constantly available. If a hospital tank has to be set up on short notice to treat a sick fish, use water from an established display tank.

Q: What equipment do I need to setup a QT (or hospital tank) ?
A:

* Tank
* Heater
* Powerhead(s)
* Thermometer
* Ammonia Alert Indicator and/or Nitrate & Nitrite test kits
* PVC pipe segments or other hiding places for fish
* Live Rock (QT only not hospital)
* Light (optional for fish-only)
* Skimmer (optional)
* HOB Filter (optional)

Q: What are some medications I should have on hand?
A:

* Copper for ich and oodinium
* Praziquantel - for flukes and worms
* nitrofurazone - for open wounds or sores
* Metronidazole - for intestinal and other protozoa
* Formalin - for brook and other external parasites
* Erythromycin and Minocycline - for bacterial prevention/treatment
* Food enhancers such as Selcon, Vitality, and Eco Garlic for appetite stimulation (not treatment)

 

[snorvich]

Good advice. How long in a QT for inspection and no copper. Shouldn't Ich show up in a couple of weeks?

It is very desirable to learn how to recognize how fish behave when they are experiencing a parasite. Various behaviors such as flashing, hanging near the return, avoiding light, hiding, heavy or rapid breathing, twitching are all indicative of a problem of one sort or another.

 

[ReeferHead84]

28g JBJ

I already own small maroon clown.

I do not want an overcrowded tank.

 

[snorvich]

28g JBJ

I already own small maroon clown.

I do not want an overcrowded tank.

In the long run, I doubt that the maroon clown will allow any additions.

 

[nellecat]

Hey Steve. You like the man to ask haha! :lolspin: I got some questions for you.

I am getting a 70 gallon reef tank with an sump. I also and running a full reef with mostly LPS and softies. (sorry this is all i know at the moment)

What fish and other things would you recommend we put in there?

I love beautiful and active fish and I would really like a good number of them.


Any tips?

Thanks
Jake

 

[snorvich]

Hey Steve. You like the man to ask haha! :lolspin: I got some questions for you.

I am getting a 70 gallon reef tank with an sump. I also and running a full reef with mostly LPS and softies. (sorry this is all i know at the moment)

What fish and other things would you recommend we put in there?

I love beautiful and active fish and I would really like a good number of them.


Any tips?

Thanks
Jake

Sorry, that is such an open ended question, would not know where to start and our tastes will be different for sure. If you come up with your desired stocking list, I will be happy to provide commentary on compatibility.

 

[JTL]

Well, i love gramma loretto, all firefish, and anthias. Your tank is a bit small for a group of anthias. However one o each of the preceding would work well. While bangai cardinals are interesting looking, they are not as interesting behaving as they look. Tangs are susceptible to cryptocaryon irritans (ich) but proper quarantine procedure can prevent that. All fish should really be quarantined.

Narrowed my list to the firefish, gramma, anthias and a mandarin. I know you don't like to make fish recommendations but there are so many different anthias and it appears that some are more difficult to feed and also eat pods which could be an obvious problem. I am pretty familiar with the needs of a mandarin having had one for a year or so. Fat and happy, eating prepared foods and one day he is a dead. I had an emerald crab in the tank and I often wonder it he snagged him while asleep. I am thinking of skipping the expensive ORA mandarin and getting a wc instead for about 1/3 the price.
Regards

 

[boxer rox]

help with new fish

help with new fish

I have a 75 gal. display with a 20 gal. sump. Also about 75 lbs. of rock and a protein skimmer in the sump. Right now I have a Royal Gramma a blue chromis a pink spot Blenny and a pygmy angel. Do you think I could add two Clowns to this mix? Thanks

 

[skyhawkn5262y]

Purple Tang in a 90 gallon? Yes or no?