Reefbreeders/(Evergrow OEM) Fixtures D120/IT20** series

light

light

how high should they be from the water line i have mostly sps 90 degree optics and my tank is 22 inches deep 4 foot wide and 2 foot front to back with 2 controllable fixtures

thanks in advance
 
how high should they be from the water line i have mostly sps 90 degree optics and my tank is 22 inches deep 4 foot wide and 2 foot front to back with 2 controllable fixtures

I have the same situation, 90 degree lenses, 22" deep and mostly sps. I have my lights 6"-8" off the water, run my blues at 90% and my whites at 40% for 5 hours with 4-5 hour sunrise and sunset and at mid day (90% & 40%) I have a 200+ PAR at 22".
 
ron

ron

thank you very much
do you just go up gradually on the sunrise and down gradually on sunset in .5 hour intervals
sorry for all the questions i just installed my lights last week and really don't want to fry anything i went from 2 250 hqi's and 2 54 watt ati blues to the leds and was trying to get a little better spread with the leds
also should i remove the red and green optics ive got my fixture currently at 8 to 8.5
one more thing is eveyone getting good growth with theese
 
Photon 32, 4' Layout

Photon 32, 4' Layout

Some Measurements for your Information

Fixture is a Photon 32, 8" off the water, 70% White, 60% Blue.
Tank is a Eurobraced 120gal.
PAR values with an Apogee, and are unadjusted. Per Apogee the blues are under-eported by around 10%, greens and reds over by 5% or so. Overall the numbers should have an additional 4% or so added to be totally accurate.

FullTank032213_PAR_Shrunk_zpsb26b4adc.jpg


I'll post an updated one of these when I get it to its end setting of 100% White, 90% Blue (14k look as opposed to what I consider a ugly, ugly, 20k).


PW
 
thank you very much
do you just go up gradually on the sunrise and down gradually on sunset in .5 hour intervals
sorry for all the questions i just installed my lights last week and really don't want to fry anything i went from 2 250 hqi's and 2 54 watt ati blues to the leds and was trying to get a little better spread with the leds
also should i remove the red and green optics ive got my fixture currently at 8 to 8.5
one more thing is everyone getting good growth with these

I change mine every hour. And yes. I do sunrise in a slightly blue tint, full daylight is more white and sunset gets bluer and bluer as the lights go down. It's like having 3 different tanks.
Removing the lenses from the UV, violet, reds, greens and moonlights is probably a good idea. I'm getting 120 degree lenses to replace the 90's and get even more spread.
If your coral was growing with the old lights, they should do just as well with the leds. I've had my EG lights for 3 months now and a 1" frag of birdsnest in now 3" and has a dozen branches.

Just ordered one of the 32 inch models to replace my old MH setup.

I had a 4 bulb 250w MH, 4 t5's and 4 led strips and switched to 2 IT2040 (the 32" fixture) and I love it. I went from 10 power cords to 2 and from 5 timers to none! Mine has been running 24/7 for 3 months and hasn't missed a beat. You'll love it.:wavehand:
 
Some Measurements for your Information

Fixture is a Photon 32, 8" off the water, 70% White, 60% Blue.
Tank is a Eurobraced 120gal.
PAR values with an Apogee, and are unadjusted. Per Apogee the blues are under-eported by around 10%, greens and reds over by 5% or so. Overall the numbers should have an additional 4% or so added to be totally accurate.

FullTank032213_PAR_Shrunk_zpsb26b4adc.jpg


I'll post an updated one of these when I get it to its end setting of 100% White, 90% Blue (14k look as opposed to what I consider a ugly, ugly, 20k).


PW

Why is there so little par at the end of your fixture?
 
Why is there so little par at the end of your fixture?

Probe is only directly under a few leds, with none on the one side, and your not deep enough to get spread from those farther away yet.
You'll notice the same point (for the most part) farther down is still good par as the spread of the other leds fills in.
 
I had a 4 bulb 250w MH, 4 t5's and 4 led strips and switched to 2 IT2040 (the 32" fixture) and I love it. I went from 10 power cords to 2 and from 5 timers to none! Mine has been running 24/7 for 3 months and hasn't missed a beat. You'll love it.:wavehand:

Am hoping that this will also allow me to dump the chiller (whic is about to crap out on me anyhow).
 
Am hoping that this will also allow me to dump the chiller (whic is about to crap out on me anyhow).

I have a 1hp chiller plumbed out in a storage unit behind the house. It used to run quite a bit in the summer (SW Florida) and even 10 minutes an hour in the cooler 'dry season'. But now it kicks on, runs a minute or two and that's it for 2 or 3 hours!
 
Ron Reefman,
Dude! I was wondering when you where going to chime in??? Nice to hear from you and I know you love the reefbreeders! I have to agree with everything you say about the comparisons too.
It's nailed down to the Reefbreeders or the KEssil new 360's!!!! Adjusting intensity on its own channel and color on it's own channel. That's pretty darn sweet if I do say so myself.
But led for led, the reefbreeders wins hands down for value. I saw one guy got the 32 photon and posted par numbers! That turned me off big time.
If I go the reefbreeders, it will be the two seperate value fixtures. This way, I can spread the PAR numbers much more evenly and overlap for my center brace.
This where those little Kessils would shine too! So small and bendable with the goosenecks! Still weighing out all my options. One of my friends just ordered 2 of the Value fixtures. She's so excited I thought she was going to have a.................well I wont go there.....lol!!!!!
The reefbreeders are sweet indeed. Still watching and listening!
 
Did you say poor par values for reefbreeders?

Look at post #504.

The PAR numbers are low at the edges. But you have to take into consideration 2 things:

1) The low numbers at the edge will be true of EVERT led fixture, in fact, any light fixture, but more so the led with 90 degree optics. Take the 90 degree lenses off the 2 or 3 outside rows and put 120 degree lenses on and it will look much better.

2) The light was running at 70% & 60% power. But turning up the power will get you higher PAR readings over the entire footprint (which I think would be better for this tank) but it really doesn't cure the PAR drop off at the ends. Any led fixture with 90 degree lenses will have these kind of issues.
 
oh is see the 95 now.. that looks to be right on the edge of the fixture.. would like to see readings with it ramped all the way up..
thanks
 
oh is see the 95 now.. that looks to be right on the edge of the fixture.. would like to see readings with it ramped all the way up..
thanks

About 2 more weeks till I have it up to 100/90 or 100/100 and I'll update.
The 4ft layout is the middle 1/3rd 90 degree lens, and the outer 1/3'rds 120.

The blues tend to overpower the white/colors at lower percentages (30-50) but as the % keep going up I'm getting alot less of that "t5's if you run all blue+, ugly).

It'll be interesting to see what numbers it ends up with, although alot of that par is already wasted in the middle as sps tend to saturate between 200-450, with some studies showing the high end at 300.


PW
 
Well I just got done reading the entire thread and have a few questions. I have a 40 breeder and from my understanding the photon 24 would be ideal for this tank. Which optics should I go with? I would like to keep all sorts of corals not just sps. Also what is everyone's thoughts on custom led setups compared to just using reef breeders? Thanks, hopefully you can understand what I'm asking.

Sent from my LTEvo using Tapatalk 2
 
I’m planning on replacing my 8 bulb T5 system above my 75 gallon tank and wanted to shift over to an LED unit (2 units to be exact). I saw a lot of good reviews of the Evergrow system on the previous Chinese LED thread and found these on Aliexpress and was curious what people thought of them:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free...ED-aquarium-light-with-63B-56W/587062331.html

I’m not a lighting expert so all of the different configurations I’ve heard are kind of daunting so I figured I’d go with the general setup that is offered instead of a DIY. I momentarily considered using Reefbreeders, but they refused to price match (and in the end it would have been more than a $50.00 price difference with what appeared to be a longer ship time and shorter warranty period and I’m trying to do this on a budget). Anyone have any thoughts?
 
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