Reefbreeders/(Evergrow OEM) Fixtures D120/IT20** series

Yes It`s 120 36 by 24 - 435G all acrylic with 10" acrylic top braces.
So there will be 6" spaces from sides and between the lights over 10 foot area.

Should be pretty cool. I have 10' of tank too, but mine is a 180g and a 70g hex sitting next to it on the same stand.

I have an 18" cloudy glass brace in the center of my tank and it has very little affect on the light in the tank. Almost zero shadowing.

2 IT 2080s???

4 IT 2040s??

Hey Matt,
I replied to your PM before I saw this post. Now your question makes more sense. I thought you were asking about 4 IT2080's over this tank and my reaction was... YIKES! And I wish my tank were 3' front to back, that should be very cool.

One IT2080 with some 90 and some 120 degree lensesalong the edges if you are doing zoas, palys and softies. BTW, spare lenses are dirt cheap and fairly easy to install. Three IT2040's with 90 degree lenses if you are looking at lps & sps. Others opinions may vary.
 
What has been the average percentage of drop off in PAR and footcandles after a year of use for these lights?
 
Also I have a 65 gallon tank with the stupid plastic center brace, can I use the 24" controllable 120w fixture and not notice a large shadow? The tank contains mostly GSP, mushrooms with one LPS and one SPS coral. Currently I am using a 4 lamp T5HO light with no issues. This tank houses my mis-fit small angels who can not play nice with corals in my 300 (example: Golden)
 
So I got my it2080 in and got it hung above my 75 gallon(with a solid black brace) and it looks great! I have 0 shadowing problems from the brace. The light is weaker on the edges so if you want sps on say the outer 3 inches of the tank you may want to go with 2 smaller units but for me it is a great place to put low light coral.

I got the default reefbreeder layout with 90* optics. I pulled the optics off the outer 2 rows of each side, above the center brace, and off the reds/greens/moonlights. Running it at 45% blue 25% white right now so I don't bleach anything.

Love love love this light especially for the price. It makes everything just pop in my tank.
 
What has been the average percentage of drop off in PAR and footcandles after a year of use for these lights?

These fixtures haven't been around for a year yet. The IT series only started in October or November of 2012 I think. But I have a friend with D120 style leds that are just over a year old. I don't know who's leds are inside but they are 3W. His old lights were only a little bit less PAR than the new IT2080's he got. I have a 2 year old D120 style (so old it's only blue and white leds and has no dimmers) and It's PAR is right up there with my new IT2040 over the same tank (I wanted a controller on the fixture).
 
so what has the general consensus been for a DIY LED layout? I have seen many posted here but some times they are skipped over without any thought or suggestions......

Is there a go to LED layout that includes red, violet, green etc?


Also I am afraid that 2 IT2080s running long ways on my tank would not be enough light, that why i thought maybe 3 running front to back would be perfect on my tank.
Again it is 50x36x30

Let me know what you guys think
 
so what has the general consensus been for a DIY LED layout? I have seen many posted here but some times they are skipped over without any thought or suggestions......

Is there a go to LED layout that includes red, violet, green etc?


Also I am afraid that 2 IT2080s running long ways on my tank would not be enough light, that why i thought maybe 3 running front to back would be perfect on my tank.
Again it is 50x36x30

Let me know what you guys think

I think 2 running front to back would be enough, especially if you pay the extra and get Cree leds as they have more output than the standard Bridgelux leds. And a few very cheap 120 degree lenses along the outer row (maybe half the outer row leds) would cover the outside edges. That would be WAY cheaper than an extra fixture. But then if money isn't an issue, having 3 would keep you covered if you ever had a problem with one fixture that needed to be pulled while repaired.

I put some UV, violet, both blues, all three whites and both reds in my layout (no green) and it's working well. I have Bridgelux leds and did a 3:2 blue to white ratio. At full power it's a very 'clean' white. I have to dial the white side down to about 40% to get some blue in it. If I was doing it again I'd do 70-75% blue and when would only have to dial the blue channel back a little bit to get back to a 10K white. It may be a very different ratio if you use the Cree leds.
 
I think 2 running front to back would be enough, especially if you pay the extra and get Cree leds as they have more output than the standard Bridgelux leds. And a few very cheap 120 degree lenses along the outer row (maybe half the outer row leds) would cover the outside edges. That would be WAY cheaper than an extra fixture. But then if money isn't an issue, having 3 would keep you covered if you ever had a problem with one fixture that needed to be pulled while repaired.

I put some UV, violet, both blues, all three whites and both reds in my layout (no green) and it's working well. I have Bridgelux leds and did a 3:2 blue to white ratio. At full power it's a very 'clean' white. I have to dial the white side down to about 40% to get some blue in it. If I was doing it again I'd do 70-75% blue and when would only have to dial the blue channel back a little bit to get back to a 10K white. It may be a very different ratio if you use the Cree leds.



So what would you suggest for blues to whites if I use the Cree LEDs?

If I use the IT2080 how many uv, violet, red should I mix into the light? Maybe 8 of each?
Should I use more uv and violet then red?
Maybe 10 uv 10 violet 6 red?
 
300gLEDPARReadingsFeb2013_zpsacab432e.jpg
 
So what would you suggest for blues to whites if I use the Cree LEDs?

If I use the IT2080 how many uv, violet, red should I mix into the light? Maybe 8 of each?
Should I use more uv and violet then red?
Maybe 10 uv 10 violet 6 red?

I've never done anything with Cree leds so I can't help. Maybe somebody else has got an EG/RB with Crees and can help?

Mine have: 3ea 660 red, 2 630 red, 4 violet, 2 UV, 35 460 blue, 14 440 blue, 15 cool white, 13 neutral white, 8 warm white. If I was doing it again I'd drop 4-6 whites and add as many blues. I will be doing that myself when I get around to ordering lenses and leds (I'm getting together an order for our local club).
UV and to a lesser extent violet are at the edge of our visible spectrum so they don't do much for the color you see in the tank. They may help a bit with fluoresence colors reflected by the corals. But they do fall into the spectrum of colors that corals use to grow, so they do help the coral, they just don't do much for what you are going to see. And we are pushing the limit of my understanding of the subject... and anybody who knows better can feel free to correct me. Or confirm and make me feel like I do have a decent understanding of the subject.
 
I am looking into getting the D120, my question is, are the fixtures compatible with any controllers or is the only way to dim the lights by turning the knob on the top?

Thanks
 
Right before I ordered mine they had 10v dimmers but now I believe because the cost difference between that and the contollable ones was so minimal they do carry them anymore. So yes the only way is with the knobs
 

Thanks for the numbers! Pretty crazy numbers on this thing. are you able to get some par numbers at certain percentages? I've got my lights hung 10.5" above the water line and im at 40/25 right now. my goal is 80/50 but that may be too much on a 12" tall tank. could you get some par numbers at 60/40 and 40/25 at the 10" height you have :beer:
 
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