TheFishMan65
New member
How are you doing your returns? I think I would leave three inches at each end for the returns. But I have never done a coast to coast (or close as I am suggesting).
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
If you are using 1-1/2'' BH's - I am assuming you will run 1-1/2'' pipe from them to your sump.
One one of the pages in my build thread - you will see that the valves are more than 1/2 closed. I am running 2'' pipe, and a Barracuda as a return pump.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1762906&highlight=holy+reefer
You may want to leave the emergency plumbed at the full 1-1/2''.
T
One one of the pages in my build thread - you will see that the valves are more than 1/2 closed. I am running 2'' pipe, and a Barracuda as a return pump.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1762906&highlight=holy+reefer
You may want to leave the emergency plumbed at the full 1-1/2''.
T
reefgems
New member
I am doing gravity fed raceways so the return will be passive from one tank to the next and will be coming in from the other side of the 8' x 2' x 10" tall tanks then flowing through the raceway to the overflow.
I have read of vortexes being created and wanted enough room for proper water flow. I don't have any 1.5" 90 degree PVC to measure... and I'm not sure how much extra I would need to ensure steady overflow with the 1.5" to be able to have 1000-7000+ gph overflowing properly.
I am concerned with the dimension of this overflow.
I have read of vortexes being created and wanted enough room for proper water flow. I don't have any 1.5" 90 degree PVC to measure... and I'm not sure how much extra I would need to ensure steady overflow with the 1.5" to be able to have 1000-7000+ gph overflowing properly.
I am concerned with the dimension of this overflow.
reefgems
New member
Awww man your setup is crazy sick!!! I don't got the time to read it now but I can't peel myself away. Oh the problems in life, lol.
Here is a preliminary pic of one of the raceways in my setup.
This gives an idea of how water passively flows from tank to tank
This was an old sketch from my current tank, next one is bigger
Thank you all, any ideas/constructive criticisms are appreciated
reefgems
New member
I don't know if I am going to be able to make 7000 gph work as far as coral growth but I want to be able to pump a ton into the raceways and maybe some surge. I want to be able to experiment with the flow limitations before I add corals. I have the same setup now but smaller (4 footers) and my overflow sux I can only overflow 1300gph and so I was never able to experiment and nobody is running this style of raceway to give me advice.
bmanzie
New member
BeanAnimal I need your help or anyone else who could give me advice. I am switching from a glass-holes overflow to a custom coast to coast that I bought from a fellow reefer. The reason I am doing this is because I want more flow and I want to utilize your design.
So what I need to do is put the coast to coast overflow to the back glass of my tank which already has holes for 1 1/12 bulkheads. I also need to connect another box to the back which will hold your drain design. So the dilemma I am having is I do not know how to connect the three pieces together preventing leaks. Piece 1 coast to coast overflow, Piece 2 back of tank with holes already drilled, Piece 2 back box which will hold the plumbing.
I have a quick sketch up that I thought would help visually. You could see the idea of the three pieces.
So what I need to do is put the coast to coast overflow to the back glass of my tank which already has holes for 1 1/12 bulkheads. I also need to connect another box to the back which will hold your drain design. So the dilemma I am having is I do not know how to connect the three pieces together preventing leaks. Piece 1 coast to coast overflow, Piece 2 back of tank with holes already drilled, Piece 2 back box which will hold the plumbing.
I have a quick sketch up that I thought would help visually. You could see the idea of the three pieces.
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TheFishMan65
New member
I think you could use regular bulkheads, but you will need to be creative with your gaskets. I think you could get by with just one between the overflow box and tank.
What are they made of? If they are all glass you might be better siliconing the box on the back.
I the overflow box already made? If not (I like this option best), then use the tank as the fourth wall of the over flow box (get rid of the side of the box with holes). Use two bulkhead to hold the coast to coast on (unless it is really heavy). This way it can't leak - any water going through the holes end up in the box.
What are they made of? If they are all glass you might be better siliconing the box on the back.
I the overflow box already made? If not (I like this option best), then use the tank as the fourth wall of the over flow box (get rid of the side of the box with holes). Use two bulkhead to hold the coast to coast on (unless it is really heavy). This way it can't leak - any water going through the holes end up in the box.
bmanzie
New member
Both boxes are acrylic and yes they are already made. The concern I am having is that on the outside box will have the threaded side of the bulkhead which will also be under water. I know water will leak through the threads regardless of the gaskets. At least thats what i am thinking.
TheFishMan65
New member
I see your problem. Maybe a layer of silicone glue (pipe thread compound) on the threads before you tighten it up. This would fill in the threads. Maybe a gasket between the tank and the outside box. Water could get in and maybe be stagnant, but it should not leak.
bmanzie
New member
I was thinking the same thing. Possibly putting a gasket in between the outside box and the back of the tank. I was also thinking of using 4 bulkheads. Put two holding the overflow with nut outside the back of tank. Cut that down to be flush with the nut. Also put two on the outside box with nut also being on the outside and cut down. Then connect them both by using a small cut piece of PVC pipe that will have both nuts touching each other (keep it clean guys). So there will be a space between the back of tank and the outer box but this will be limited to the total size of the two nuts.
Just an idea.
Just an idea.
TheFishMan65
New member
Either should work. Just make sure something beside the box is holding the Bean drain. There could be a log of leverage if you pull the box too far from the tank.
A thought: maybe you can use silicone as your gasket between the tank and over flow. Silicone does not stick to acrylic, but I don't know if it could be used to create the gasket. I think you should keep the gap as small as possible. For that reason I don't like the 4 bulkhead options as well.
A thought: maybe you can use silicone as your gasket between the tank and over flow. Silicone does not stick to acrylic, but I don't know if it could be used to create the gasket. I think you should keep the gap as small as possible. For that reason I don't like the 4 bulkhead options as well.
since when ?...have used it many times, in the past 20 years, for many applications, as recently as THIS WEEK!
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TheFishMan65
New member
Maybe I am wrong never tried it. But IIRC all the sump DIY threads here say you can't use silicone to attach an acrylic baffle to a glass sump.
[EDIT]
I did a quick search and what I find is that it sort of holds to Plexiglass. Here is someone more knowledgeable than I [referring to baffles in a sump].
[EDIT]
I did a quick search and what I find is that it sort of holds to Plexiglass. Here is someone more knowledgeable than I [referring to baffles in a sump].
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Albano-
I think the there is a mis-understanding here with what silicone and acrylic. Does it stick...? Well - yes. But is it a structural bond. Nope. It can peel away from the acrylic.
Try siliconing acrylic together for a sump, or a tank, and let me know how that turns out when you fill it with water:bigeyes:
As for making a gasket, sure I use it all the time for that too!
T
I think the there is a mis-understanding here with what silicone and acrylic. Does it stick...? Well - yes. But is it a structural bond. Nope. It can peel away from the acrylic.
Try siliconing acrylic together for a sump, or a tank, and let me know how that turns out when you fill it with water:bigeyes:
As for making a gasket, sure I use it all the time for that too!
T
NOW, I can agree with you...and I have used it to 'seal' the seams on a frag tank, has not leaked a drop in 6 months, but you're right, NOT for a structural bond!
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mrx66699
New member
using the gasket on the threaded side of an application with a bulkhead will leak.... maybe not at first but will absolutely leak with any pressure over time.... think about it the threads go through the gasket.... the water will just follow the threads around the bulkhead and through the gasket and leak....this will not create a seal down in the threads
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mrx66699
New member
bill put the nut on the inside of the tank in the overflow in the DT thats the correct way to install a glass hole style overflow box....the bulkhead will be sealed on the back of the dt .....place the outside box below the bulkheads ....use a 90 facing down coming out of the bulkhead with 1 1/5 pipe extending out of the 90 into the top of the box and then down below water level = no leaks
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