Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Ok I've read through the original post on the forums as well as the post on Bean's site and I'm not questioning how it works or whether it does work....I'm more interested in knowing the cons of this type of setup (if any)?

Is there a type of setup where a system like this (along with the C2C overflow) wouldn't be advised? I tried searching this thread and the first split one for any references of issues but couldn't really find anything.
 
The only cons I can think of is space. 3 standpipes take up space. Internal or external.

Uncleof6.. got my system up and running like it should be. Open channel all the way open. Seems like it is working well
 
Ok I've read through the original post on the forums as well as the post on Bean's site and I'm not questioning how it works or whether it does work....I'm more interested in knowing the cons of this type of setup (if any)?

Is there a type of setup where a system like this (along with the C2C overflow) wouldn't be advised? I tried searching this thread and the first split one for any references of issues but couldn't really find anything.

A blank canvas all tempered glass tank........

Jim
 
The only cons I can think of is space. 3 standpipes take up space. Internal or external.

Uncleof6.. got my system up and running like it should be. Open channel all the way open. Seems like it is working well

Have you tested all failure modes on the fly, such as a sudden blockage of the main siphon? Don't try the three stand pipe failure mode--- it will flood guaranteed ;)
 
I'm not sure if this has been asked before, or if someone has done it already. What's the best way can I implement this on a pre-drilled 125g with corner overflows? Both overflows have 1.5" drains and 1" returns.

TIA.
 
I'm not sure if this has been asked before, or if someone has done it already. What's the best way can I implement this on a pre-drilled 125g with corner overflows? Both overflows have 1.5" drains and 1" returns.

TIA.

The only real choices you have is remove the corner and plug the hole and drill the back or connect the conners with a coast to coast and then use 3 of the 4 pipes and the bean system and one as a return or a 4th safty. Other then that I don't think there are to many other choices. I think for simpleness the Herbie method would be best for corner overflow so you dont have to do the c2c and all the extra mods.
 
I'm not sure if this has been asked before, or if someone has done it already. What's the best way can I implement this on a pre-drilled 125g with corner overflows? Both overflows have 1.5" drains and 1" returns.

TIA.

Keep the overflows the way they are and use one of the 1" holes for the siphon and the other two 1.5" holes for the open channel and emergency. The last 1" could be used for a return, or cap it off.
 
The difficult part will be making sure all the pipes are the appropriate height to function properly. But it can be done. The coast to coast overflow is not mandatory for this setup. You just need to make sure you have all the necessary holes drilled in the tank.
 
Siphon and open channel in the same overflow-- or the system will not adjust properly. Emergency and return in the other overflow-- cap the OVERFLOW so no water enters the overflow, but the emergency will handle flow if needed. (water will stagnate in the overflow) Adjust according to bean's instructions, on the first page of the original thread or on his website.
 
Ok I have read through this thread and love this overflow. I want to do this on my new 240. It is going to be a peninsula tank (72x32x24)LWH, so one side will be against a wall and that is the side I will drill on. I am trying to figure out the best combo for this application. I have a lot of room to work with outside the tank. So would it better to do a coast to coast (32") plus a glass overflow outside the tank? Or just a bigger internal overflow? Also what kind of dimensions would I be looking at? I don't know yet what pump I am using, maybe a Dart. Thanks
 
If it will help you - I built a similar systen in size, and for different reasons ( tank placement) installed the Bean style overflow across the end pane of the tank, as you are contemplating. High flow, in "gyre" fashion to feed debris to corals and direct it ultimately to the overflow. Hope this helps give some ideas...PM me or post here if I can answer any questions.
T
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1762906&highlight=holy+reefer
 
Thanks teesquare. Beautiful setup. I am using a used tank so I won't have the opportunity to drill the bottom. I do plan on drilling for a closed loop, using a Hammerhead as well. Your design would be perfect for me. Is there someone who sells an external overflow like that that I can attach to my tank? Any of you who made your own, any suggestions?

Thanks!
 
Thanks teesquare. Beautiful setup. I am using a used tank so I won't have the opportunity to drill the bottom. I do plan on drilling for a closed loop, using a Hammerhead as well. Your design would be perfect for me. Is there someone who sells an external overflow like that that I can attach to my tank? Any of you who made your own, any suggestions?

Thanks!

Just for off the cuff response, nice tank dimensions for your tank. Wide and shallow-- good combination. Good pump choices also Dart for flow (I run darts on 240s, and smaller tanks also-- when no one is looking,) and Hammerhead for the closed loop.

I have dimensions for an internal/external arrangement in grapic form, you asked about. It is a starting point, and can vary according to space and plumbing size. No one "sells" overflows of this type, they are strictly "DIY" or custom ordered tanks from places like Miracles.


Untitled-12.jpg
 
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I'm in the process of building a 275g tank, have read most of this thread and decided to implement BeanAnimal's system.

I need to give pin-point instructions to the tank people so they can drill the holes for the system, so because I don't want to mess things up I want to be sure that what I have so far as plans will work properly, at least the holes position and overflow placement.

Better to show it in renders:

BeanAnimal-001.jpg

BeanAnimal-002.jpg

BeanAnimal-003.jpg

BeanAnimal-004.jpg

BeanAnimal-005.jpg

BeanAnimal-006.jpg


So, please comments or suggestions more than welcome, as I told you above, I don't want to give improper instructions to the tank people. BTW the whole tank is glass not acrylic.

Thank you very much for your kind help :)
 
I'm in the process of building a 275g tank, have read most of this thread and decided to implement BeanAnimal's system.

I need to give pin-point instructions to the tank people so they can drill the holes for the system, so because I don't want to mess things up I want to be sure that what I have so far as plans will work properly, at least the holes position and overflow placement.

Better to show it in renders:

BeanAnimal-001.jpg

BeanAnimal-002.jpg

BeanAnimal-003.jpg

BeanAnimal-004.jpg

BeanAnimal-005.jpg

BeanAnimal-006.jpg


So, please comments or suggestions more than welcome, as I told you above, I don't want to give improper instructions to the tank people. BTW the whole tank is glass not acrylic.

Thank you very much for your kind help :)

Good start, just a couple things:

The holes need to be at least 1 hole diameter down from the top edge of the glass, and from each other. 2.375"-- a small difference, but none the less-- good practice.

I would eliminate the 90°s at the bottom of the drop, in favor of 2 45°s, as the flow characteristics will improve. Not super critical, for a siphon system, but for the open channel the 90° will create some turbulence (noise etc.)

With previous, drop the lines straight down into the sump from above, and terminate no deeper than 1" (for startup reasons - air will purge easier/faster-- a leading cause of problems with this system, next to air leaks.)

The last two make it more necessary for some "creative" support for the plumbing, but functions a bit better.

On the return lines, 2- 1" pipes do not equal a 1.5" pipe, and will restrict your water flow (increased friction loss.) Would keep the return lines 1.5" from stem to stern before and after the split. You may want to consider using a "Y" rather than a tee, and eliminate the flow robbing "brick wall" of the tee. I would also use 2 45°s rather than the two 90°s to get out from under the tank. Although 2 45°s equal one 90°, 2 45°s is less than two 90°s in terms of friction loss. ( I just like the ° symbol ;) )

Jim
 
Jim,
Thank you very much for your quick response and incredible help.
I will modify these and will post again.

Take care
 
Thanks for the info Uncle. So with the 32" wide space I have to work with, I'd like to make the internal weir box not quite coast to coast. I would like to take up as little real estate on the inside of the tank as possible since I have a lot of room on the outside of the tank. So can I get away with a very narrow internal? Like a 28"wide X 5" tall X 2.5" deep and then make the outer overflow box sized accordingly? And how do I figure that out lol? Also has it been posted in these threads how to secure the outer overflow box. Wanna make sure that baby stays on there
 
Thanks for the info Uncle. So with the 32" wide space I have to work with, I'd like to make the internal weir box not quite coast to coast. I would like to take up as little real estate on the inside of the tank as possible since I have a lot of room on the outside of the tank. So can I get away with a very narrow internal? Like a 28"wide X 5" tall X 2.5" deep and then make the outer overflow box sized accordingly? And how do I figure that out lol? Also has it been posted in these threads how to secure the outer overflow box. Wanna make sure that baby stays on there

Absolutely. That is the whole idea of the internal/external arrangement: Narrow internal (as long as possible) and everything else outside the tank. The outside box will be x" long, and ~5" front to back. Wide enough to work on the plumbing.

External is made of glass, and is attached to the outside using silicone. Momentive RTV108, do not use home depot silicone.

I hate to keep posting the same graphic in the same thread repetitively, but to save hunting and until I do some new ones, which I should, this is how it basically turns out.

337galloncustom5.jpg


337galloncustom4.jpg


and for jpsika08:

337galloncustom-4.jpg


Jim
 
perfect Uncle. Mine will be just like yours with the cabinet next to the tank but mine will be on the short side. So now I just need to get some black acrylic and glass and confidence lol
 
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