Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[jpsika08]

Thank you for the sketch, I will modify mine as instructed.

 

[JTL]

I am having a problem getting the main syphon to activate. Good thing the safety one works. If I put my hand on the drain in the sump and let the water build up in the down tube it will syphon. I have checked for leaks many times but cannot find anything wrong. I even sealed the cap with silly, still no luck. I do recall when I took the cap off a while back and put my hand over the opening it appeared to start a syphon. My thought is air is getting in but where? If all the connections are under water except for the cap what else could it be?

 

[reefermad619]

How far does the siphon extend under the water line in the sump? I know some people had problems getting the siphon started when the pipe was more then 1/2"-1" inch under the water line. Mine extends a little more than 1/2" in to my sump.

 

[JTL]

Not very far, maybe an inch at the most.

 

[uncleof6]

Did you use a screw cap on the top of the tee, or a slip cap? Slip cap probably won't seal unless you glue it. For threads use a teflon paste. Also try some holes in the standpipe just above the water line in the sump (one of bean's solutions.) However, your hand over the top allowing the siphon to start, strongly suggests the air leak.

Jim

 

[JTL]

Jim, I used a screw cap and teflon tape. I also think it may be an air leak, but I cannot figure out from where. Seems to me the only place that an air leak could cause a problem is in the plumbing in the OF box that is not under water, basically the cap. The plumbling from the bottom of the OF to the sump should not be an issue or am I wrong. Like I said if I cover the end of the drain pipe in the sump and let the water build up in the pipe it has enough weight to get the syphon started.

John

 

[jpsika08]

Jim,
Once again thank you for your kind advice.

Here are the new renders with changes as suggested, also, the holes in the drawings have the distance you mentioned for safe handling the glass.

Your comments or suggestions are more than welcomed.

Take care.

 

[uncleof6]

Hmmmm, ok with four 45s on the bottom end of the return, you have 2 90s, just a little more expensive, and no gain. Was kinda hoping you would move the pump towards the back, and bring it straight out of the sump rather then the hard right turn. (cavitation issue,) but this is way off topic of the thread.

 

[jpsika08]

Jim,
Thank you very much for the help again.

Here is the last corrected render based on your comments.

Thank your for your kind comments.

 

[uncleof6]

Can't argue with that, clone them systems, they do work. Put a valve in your return line, though.

Jim

 

[jpsika08]

Done deal! Thank you very much for all your help, would've been a mess with out all the advice you gave me! :thumbsup:

Take care

 

[Liquid Hobby]

2 x 45s produce more friction loss than a single 90. Use spa flex, it's more $ but I find it's so worth it.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pv...ngs-d_801.html

On a another note, I'm setting up a new system and freshwater testing right now. The loudest part of the overflow isn't the standpipe, it's the amount of water flowing thru the pipes under the tank!

How do you quiet that down? I can put pipe insulation around it I guess...

 

[TheFishMan65]

Is there air in the line? If there is not air there should be no noise unless it is vibrating. Where did you place your valve? It should be as far down as possible.

 

[uncleof6]

2 x 45s produce more friction loss than a single 90. Use spa flex, it's more $ but I find it's so worth it.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pv...ngs-d_801.html

On a another note, I'm setting up a new system and freshwater testing right now. The loudest part of the overflow isn't the standpipe, it's the amount of water flowing thru the pipes under the tank!

How do you quiet that down? I can put pipe insulation around it I guess...

Link is a dead end. ~ 1/2 the friction loss per 45° opposed to a 90°-- or a little less, or a little more depending on the pipe size. Replacing 2- 90°s with 2- 45°s decreases the friction loss. Spa flex is ok, but I don't use it unless I cannot get away from the elbows with a couple 45s-- aka I need a sweep.

http://www.pondarama.com/html/friction_loss_charts.html


What type of stand pipe, size of the pipe, type and number of fittings? Length of the drop? Restrictions (pressure increase, then sudden pressure decrease?)

 

[afgun]

pvc-pipes-equivalent-length-fittings-d_801.html

 

[rsuplido]

Siphon and open channel in the same overflow-- or the system will not adjust properly. Emergency and return in the other overflow-- cap the OVERFLOW so no water enters the overflow, but the emergency will handle flow if needed. (water will stagnate in the overflow) Adjust according to bean's instructions, on the first page of the original thread or on his website.

How about if I run two full siphons (each controlled by a valve) on each of the 1.5" on each overflow, and one emergency on the 1"? The other 1" will be for the return. Will that work?

Thanks in advance.

 

[uncleof6]

No. The emergency must be able to handle the entire flow all by its lonesome. To risking guestimating, with two 1.5", and one 1." It is a huge difference.

Jim

 

[Jason.Wright]

So ... I have an acrylic RR tank with a single drain. Could I incorporate this idea? Anyone have a design schematic or photos?

Jason

 

[TheFishMan65]

Single drain you are pretty much out of luck. Is there a return hole? If you are willing to change the return to over the top the Herbie method might work for you.

 

[HanoverFist]

Minimum Flow?

Minimum Flow?

I've read in this thread that this setup "may" have issues at lower flow rates. Starting the siphon, etc.

So, what is the minimum flow rate for the BeanAnimal setup?

I'm thinking I only need about 350-700 gph with a 75 DT running through my 40 breeder sump/fuge. Is this too little? Is this designed more for the larger setups that push 1500gph+ ? Would I be better off with just a standard overflow/standpipe setup?

Thanks