Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

I'm going to be using this set up for my internal overflow on a 24" tall tank - how tall should the drain pipes be inside my overflow box? The drop into the sump is about 2.5 feet, and I am using 1" plumbing. Both lines (open channel and emergency line) will be straight lengths of pipe.

The emergency drain I figure I will cut so it's just shorter than the bottom of the teeth of the overflow box so it's not visible, but I'm not sure how tall to make the main drain pipe - I don't want it so low that water cascades loudly into the overflow, but I want it low enough that the surface actually does get skimmed. I figure the return pup will be doing between 600 - 800 gph, depending on how I set it up.
 
Figure out that water level you want in the box, and set the top of the elbow just below that.

As far as surface skimming goes, the teeth are your biggest enemy on that.

Jim
 
but I want it low enough that the surface actually does get skimmed. I figure the return pup will be doing between 600 - 800 gph, depending on how I set it up.

The actual amount that get skimmed really doesn't have a lot to do with how high the pipe is set though, right? (It very well might make a difference in noise though.) It has to do with how many linear inches of weir and gallons of water going over it. Once the water goes over the weir it is skimmed. doesn't matter how far it falls after going over. You'll probably cut your linear inches in half since it is teeth instead of a smooth plane.
 
I will say this now... I am sorry if this has already been asked... Ive read a lot of this thread and couldnt find it, but i'll admit I didnt read every post... There are so many!!

Anyways... I built my silent n failsafe overflow system.... Got everything where I wanted it... and glued it all in place the way I like it... Here's the (i dont know if its a problem or not) problem i've encountered....

The downturned ell for the siphon is about .25-.5" inch lower than the downturned ell for the open channel... If my brain is working right, it wont really matter as the water level in the box is set by the siphon line being cut back with the valve on it right? So all i need to do is cut it back a little bit more and make the water level go higher so it enters the open channel line and flows into there correct?

Let me know if this made sense or not...
Thanks for the help and the great idea Bean!

-Scott
 
Raise the water level till water just flows in the open channel. That is on the first page of the original thread I believe-- in the adjustment instructions, and also on bean's website. ;)

If the open channel is above the siphon, the same instructions apply. So you are correct.

Jim
 
BeanAnimal , I just got a marineland 300 deep dimension with a corner overflow in each back corner . Each overflow has two one inch bulkheads . can I use this system on my tank ?
 
Yes and no...

The easiest way to utilize this setup in that scenario is as follows:

BOX 1:
Open channel
Siphon

BOX 2:
Emergency
Return from sump

Fill box #2 with oolitic sand to just below the overflow teeth. This will create a small but likely effective DSB for NNR.

That allows you to utilize both boxes and the overflow system without having stagnant water in one of the boxes. There are other options, but this is by far the easiest.
 
So you can't use one tube in each overflow as a siphon , and the second tube in each overflow box as the Emergency ?

No, the sysem requires (2) standpipes in the same box (the siphon and open channel). This would leave the 3rd standpipe isolated in the other box. The box would not drain and would simply fill up and become stagnant.

Moving the siphon to one box and the open channel to the other would break the functionality of the system.

Placing a SINGLE siphon in each box and using the second pipe in each box as an EMERGENCY would in effect be two herbie systems in parallel. A single herbie can be hard enough to keep balanced, let alone TWO in parallel. The problem is that you have no way of ensuring that the flow into each box stays the same or at least at the exact same ratio. As the ratio of flow going into each box drifts back and forth, the tuning of the siphon in each box will affected.

You can certainly try to setup a parallel herbie... Then again setting of the silent and fail-safe system as described is a no brainer and allows the use of one of the bulkheads as a return :)
 
Thank you Sir , for making that so clear . I was hoping to skim from both sides of the tank . Now I can see that I would not be able to control the level of water in both boxes . I have the system on the tank I have running now , and I love it , but my present tank has only one overflow box .
 
critique my setup and advise

critique my setup and advise

I finally drilled my 40br and would like some input on what I have done so far. I also have a question on placement of the ball valve on the full siphon. The drain order will be full siphon, open channel, and emergency, does it matter on the order. They will be draining into a 20L sump. The full and open will be going into the skimmer section and the safety will be going into the return section. My sump will be configured as such skimmer/return/fuge. I was originally going to make the overflow out of acrylic but I have concerns about attaching to the glass. I will getting some tinted glass cut for the overflow box instead which will be 24"x3.5"x4.5". I appreciate any and all input on my setup, as this is my first bean setup. Thanks.

100910-1.jpg~original

100910-1.jpg~original

100910-1.jpg~original
 
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Just wondering if those bulkheads are slip fit on the flange side-- if it is thread, you are going to have a real hard time screwing the elbows in. ;) Don't matter which standpipe is where.
 
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