Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

55 gal system

55 gal system

Alright, I'm unsure if this was discussed at all in this thread. I would normally read through before posting, but I have to be at work soon. I was wondering if any adjustment to pipe size is needed to adapt this silent overflow to a 55 gallon system. If so, what do I need to consider before I start buying my supplies?
 
Well, I am looking at being able to put at most a 15gal tall aquarium in as a sump, or doing a custom build sump. Either way, half of my stand below the tank will be sump, and I'm thinking an external return pump and storage shelves in the other half. I'm looking to do this on the cheap but correctly at the same time.
 
your Expertise is humbly needed

your Expertise is humbly needed

WOW"¦.much respect to you BEANANIMAL.
Salute to you Professor Bean!

B4 I encountered this thread, I was in the design process of my overflow. What I had in mind was similar to your approach, SIPHON, however mine was not submerged like yours is. I have several questions that are poking my head right now and would like to poke your expertise :D.
My prior 120 AQ reef, siphon was utilized in a built in internal overflow box located in the center.

Kindly see the FIG1 below, note to scale. Sorry no AutoCAD :uhoh2:

Wanted to do this prior seeing your thread on my new 400ish GAL tank, built in wall, 2 viewing (Garage & living room). My other option was to have 2 of these, 1 on each side. The only disadvantage here is the noise occasionally but its flood free.
However your design is much respected and I am trying to see on how I can integrate this to my system. Please advice.
 

Attachments

torbett said:
Alright, I'm unsure if this was discussed at all in this thread. I would normally read through before posting, but I have to be at work soon. I was wondering if any adjustment to pipe size is needed to adapt this silent overflow to a 55 gallon system. If so, what do I need to consider before I start buying my supplies?
Click to expand...

Be aware that most glass 55 gallon aquariums are tempered on all panels and can not be cut or drilled.
 
Doggie,

I can't quite make out what the drawing is trying to convey. However, in general if you can keep things on ONE overflow box, then it will be much easier to set and maintain the system. TWO boxes are tricky at best for these types of standpipes.
 
Hey Bean I have a friend who wants to incorporate this on his 500g tank and since I have read pretty much this entire thread and rave about this system, he wants me to plumb it lol. He has an internal overflow box with 4x1 inch drains. My thoughts were to use 3 of them for this system and 1 for the return. My question is about flow. He wants to run a good amount of flow, like a 4000gph return pump. Will The 1 siphon be able to handle this much flow? Any suggestions for this setup? Thank you!
 
4000 GPH is going to be too much for a 1" siphon at a reasonable head (sump below stand). For type of flow, your friend really should use 1.5" or larger bulkheads and plumbing.

If (2) of the bulkheads were used as siphon standpipes, the function of the open channel and emergency would be questionable though likely safe in a true emergency situation. Getting both siphons to start fast enough to not overwhelm the open channel and emergency is certainly another question that can't be easily answered until the system is setup.

There are folks running darts with the 1" bulkheads and this setup, but my guess is that they are losing quite a bit of flow due to head on the pump and nowhwere near 4000 GPH. Anybody here running a Dart wish to chime in?
 
Yeah the head loss will only be a few feet. I am confused on one thing here. Will using 1.5" plumbing and reducing for the 1" hole do anything. Or is it always going to be restricted to a 1" drain regardless of increasing the diameter of the piping? I thought about using two full siphons but it seems like it would be tricky to dial in. I have to take another look at the holes and hope that they are 1.5" but I am pretty sure they are 1"
 
1.5" plumbing will reduce the overall frictional loss in the pipe and lower the reynolds number (less turbulance). Both will help to increase the capacity of the siphon, but the "bottleneck" is still the 1" bulkhead.

If the tank is empty, then upsizing the holes should not be that much of an issue, other than nerves.
 
Ok Bean sorry, I was giving you wrong info. I just got the correct specs. The tank has 2x1.5" holes and 2x1" holes drilled on the bottom of the tank inside an overflow box. He has a Barracuda/Hammerhead hybrid and plans to run about 4600 gph before head loss. Now, is it possible and which drains would you use for what?

Thanks again. This is THE best system out there
 
nctinter said:
Ok Bean sorry, I was giving you wrong info. I just got the correct specs. The tank has 2x1.5" holes and 2x1" holes drilled on the bottom of the tank inside an overflow box. He has a Barracuda/Hammerhead hybrid and plans to run about 4600 gph before head loss. Now, is it possible and which drains would you use for what?

Thanks again. This is THE best system out there
Click to expand...

Sounds identical to me, except I have the dart, so "only" 4300 gph for me. You can see a lot of to-ing and fro-ing from me in the recent pages of this thread, but in the end, I've decided to do:

1st overflow:
- 1.5" full siphon
- 1" open drain

2nd overflow:
- 1.5" return from sump, into distribution bar and lok-line along the back of the tank
- 1" emergency drain, set higher than open drain


I'll also drill a small hole in the return-from-the-pump pipe, just below the natural water level. That will provide a small net flow of water from *within* the overflow out into the tank, thus preventing any stagnant water.

You could just leave the overflow empty, but I think with splashing etc., it would fill up eventually, and then you'd have your stagnant water issue - better to combat it from the start.

I am still considering putting a DSB in there - it'd make a great little refugium, being isolated from the tank, but note that a DSB needs a small amount of flow as well, so just filling with sand wouldn't prevent the stagnant water issue.

Simon.
(Another month or so, and I think I'll finally be getting water into this thing. I took delivery of the tank last November... Whew!)
 
Spaced Cowboy said:
Sounds identical to me, except I have the dart, so "only" 4300 gph for me. You can see a lot of to-ing and fro-ing from me in the recent pages of this thread, but in the end, I've decided to do:

1st overflow:
- 1.5" full siphon
- 1" open drain

2nd overflow:
- 1.5" return from sump, into distribution bar and lok-line along the back of the tank
- 1" emergency drain, set higher than open drain


I'll also drill a small hole in the return-from-the-pump pipe, just below the natural water level. That will provide a small net flow of water from *within* the overflow out into the tank, thus preventing any stagnant water.

You could just leave the overflow empty, but I think with splashing etc., it would fill up eventually, and then you'd have your stagnant water issue - better to combat it from the start.

I am still considering putting a DSB in there - it'd make a great little refugium, being isolated from the tank, but note that a DSB needs a small amount of flow as well, so just filling with sand wouldn't prevent the stagnant water issue.

Simon.
(Another month or so, and I think I'll finally be getting water into this thing. I took delivery of the tank last November... Whew!)
Click to expand...

Yes same hole sizes but this one is all in one overflow in the center back of the tank. Is yours up and running or have you tested it with the Dart?
 
nctinter said:
Yes same hole sizes but this one is all in one overflow in the center back of the tank. Is yours up and running or have you tested it with the Dart?
Click to expand...

Ah - I'd just assumed the two overflows :) Having them in one overflow makes it easier, of course. That's the original design after all.

Nope, not running yet. Hopefully in a month or so.

Simon
 
Todd,

It appears that your current design has improved upon the surface skimming. That said, (as I have already pointed out) I am not a fan of U-Tube overflows due to their inherent failure modes. As long as you sleep well with your overflow, then I will also :)
 
Thanks Bean,

NOw I have a true ~21" interface, skimming the top 1/4 to 1/2 inch of water, flowing ~ 900 gph. no more holes, slots, etc., just flowing over the top circumferentially of a 6 3/4 in pipe.

The size and flow of my HOB style overflow will not fail, will not plug up etc.
Defintiely my best alternative to a drilled overflow.
I do sleep well- the 'intank skimmer' overflow is actually quieter with the larger pipe, and I built a reverse dorso for the bottom into the sump.
 
My apology Bean

My apology Bean

BeanAnimal said:
Doggie,

I can't quite make out what the drawing is trying to convey. However, in general if you can keep things on ONE overflow box, then it will be much easier to set and maintain the system. TWO boxes are tricky at best for these types of standpipes.
Click to expand...

I enhanced the drawing as detailed that I can with .doc :(

Just a thought, why would overflow triggers a flood if equilibrium is followed?
 

Attachments

Doggie,

I apologize, but I have no idea what you are trying to ask or explain and can not make heads or tails of your 2D drawing. Maybe somebody else following does? If your question or design involves HOB (Hang On Back) type overflows, then it would be better suited to its own thread.
 
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