Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Your open channel is going to give you problems. The two 90's are going to create turbulence in the line. Ideal: All three straight down. No fittings other than the valve.
 
Thanks for your input. Does this look better?

DSC01981.jpg


How does this look?
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DSC01983.jpg
 
I was trying to get away with what I have at the house, without buying anything new. Is it really gonna cause that much of a problem? I mean, it is only a 20L. I could buy new if it is really a big deal thou.
Thanks for you help.
 
Your open channel is going to give you problems. The two 90's are going to create turbulence in the line. Ideal: All three straight down. No fittings other than the valve.

I can see the open channel needing to be a straight pipe but does the siphon channel need to be straight as well? In my setup I will need to put two 45 degree angles to put the siphon channel in the correct location in the sump.

Thanks.
 
I can see the open channel needing to be a straight pipe but does the siphon channel need to be straight as well? In my setup I will need to put two 45 degree angles to put the siphon channel in the correct location in the sump.

Thanks.

The system works as designed. Modifications, are a variable. I don't see 45's as being as major of a modification as a horizontal run. Generally headed down, should not present issues. I would not worry about it.
 
If you use true union ball valves do you recommend upsizing them? My main siphon will be 1" with a 3/4" bulkhead, so would I go with a 1 1/4" true union ball valve?
 
Upsizing will reduce friction loss through the valve. I don't use ball valves though as gate valves disassemble for service, so no need for the unions.
 
Ok, I have a 135gal 6 foot tank with corner overflows. Unfortunately each overflow only has one hole drilled. I've thought of using those holes and overflows for the returns and drilling three more holes center rear top and adding another custom overflow for the drains. Ideas, thoughts or concerns? I'm a newb still with barely 6 months going on my 29gal biocube so advice is certainly welcome!

If it matters the sump will be located in the basement almost directly beneath the tank. At most it would be 2 feet off. Diameter of the currently drilled holes are 1.75".

Thanks!
 
The 1" BV on the siphon should be fine, as the 3/4" bulkhead is going to be the limiting diameter.

45's should be fine, within reason, for any of the standpipes. A dead nuts straight drop for the open channel is not possible with most setups, as the sump is under the tank, not offest to the back. My actual setup uses (2) bends on each standpipe to get them under the stand and into the sump.
 
Ok, I have a 135gal 6 foot tank with corner overflows. Unfortunately each overflow only has one hole drilled. I've thought of using those holes and overflows for the returns and drilling three more holes center rear top and adding another custom overflow for the drains. Ideas, thoughts or concerns? I'm a newb still with barely 6 months going on my 29gal biocube so advice is certainly welcome!

If it matters the sump will be located in the basement almost directly beneath the tank. At most it would be 2 feet off. Diameter of the currently drilled holes are 1.75".

Thanks!
My tank is pretty much like yours. I used the 2 corner over flows and drilled another hole in the back middle for a 1" return splitting into 2 loc-line 3/4" nozzles. Works pretty good for me. (Less work in your case probably as well)
 
My tank is pretty much like yours. I used the 2 corner over flows and drilled another hole in the back middle for a 1" return splitting into 2 loc-line 3/4" nozzles. Works pretty good for me. (Less work in your case probably as well)

Did you use bean's drain design? For some reason I thought I needed 3 overflows...
 
Okay, so just like in your drawing eh? That's what I had planned, but all this talk about bends had me a bit concerned.
 
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