Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[lostmyz]

Yes, I wish that I figured this earlier. I know now for the next time i build a tank/upgrade. I'd rather use what I have than tear the entire thing down. Removing 90lbs of sand and 80lbs of live rock and 72 gals of water sorta sucks... so I was looking for a modification. Why would the hole leading from the inside to the outside be loud? Currently I have it so the box itself is silent of gurgles

 

[uncleof6]

Channeling the flow through a single hole, can create some issues. It needs to get the surface water out of the internal overflow portion, hence needs to be at the surface of the water.

Pretty much any thing you try to do to improve on the current system, will involve modifying the tank.

 

[Tim Duncan]

Yes right bean time, right bean station. Start by looking at my last post. Difference between this idea and the original, is the standpipes go in the external box, rather than through the tank wall, only the water moves through the tank wall.

I understand that the pipes go through the external box, but how are the openings on the pipes supposed to be configured? I see tons of diagrams on how they are configured on an internal box, but nothing showing an external. Thanks again for the help

 

[lostmyz]

I'd have the stand pipes positioned the same exact way as the originally.

But essentially uncleof6 are you saying by channeling it throw a single hole into the external box, the external box won't fill up enough to make the system work? If thats they point I completely understand

 

[Firochromis]

Hi all,

I've read the first 40 pages before the split and then the 140 pages in this thread, and skimmed the last 40 pages. So, from now on my nick is Firochromis-Reloaded

I still have a question on mind about sizing of pipes. I'll pump some 1500 gallons to aquarium after head loss and have the following on mind:

siphon: 3/4" bulkhead and 1.25" pipes from overflow to sump
open channel: 1.5" bulkhead and 1.5" pipes from overflow to sump
emergency: 3/4" bulkhead and 1.25" pipes from overflow to sump

Probably 1" pipes for siphon would be enough, but since there is a valve on it, I can reduce it a little more, if needed. My overflow is an internal one and bulkheads are on the bottom glass. So, this lines will be straight, no elbows.

Any suggestions on sizing?

 

[lostmyz]

Also I am using a overflow box that skims the surface... so I am not following how this won't work...

 

[uncleof6]

I understand that the pipes go through the external box, but how are the openings on the pipes supposed to be configured? I see tons of diagrams on how they are configured on an internal box, but nothing showing an external. Thanks again for the help

To find what you are wanting to see, I would have to go back through 179 pages of this thread, to find it. Perhaps, into the thread before the split. This thread is a must read, for anyone wishing to implement this system. I don't mind so much having to keep posting the same pictures multiple times, but it simply bogs down the thread. Perhaps even easier, rather than I doing the search for you, is to simply find the link to the above photo, (click on it) and then go to my photobucket account, it is public, and all this stuff is there.

 

[uncleof6]

I'd have the stand pipes positioned the same exact way as the originally.

But essentially uncleof6 are you saying by channeling it throw a single hole into the external box, the external box won't fill up enough to make the system work? If thats they point I completely understand

The water level in the internal and external box should be the same, with no change in level. This should be at the horizontal centerline of the hole, to keep it as quiet as possible.

So you attach the internal box to the back of the tank, with the same bulkhead, then build an external box, with three standpipes in it. What have you accomplished? You have reduced the amount of water that can flow through the bulkhead. Sure it will work, may make some noise, may not. But seems a great deal of trouble to eliminate a little gurgling, that in two weeks you won't be able to really "hear" anymore.......... you have not really improved anything.

 

[Tim Duncan]

To find what you are wanting to see, I would have to go back through 179 pages of this thread, to find it. Perhaps, into the thread before the split. This thread is a must read, for anyone wishing to implement this system. I don't mind so much having to keep posting the same pictures multiple times, but it simply bogs down the thread. Perhaps even easier, rather than I doing the search for you, is to simply find the link to the above photo, (click on it) and then go to my photobucket account, it is public, and all this stuff is there.

Thanks...I will take a look at your photos tonight!

 

[tinkerman]

Tim Duncan I posted a pic yesterday in lostmyz other thread with pics of how I did mine. lostmyz Using one hole the water will be higher in the internal box than the external so you will getthat running water noise. lostmyz you would save yourself some fustration to do it right the first time. You can still reuse everything since you said you just set the tank up, put stuff in cans and buckets and do it right, its just time now later it will be sand possibly losing fish and corals.

 

[Tim Duncan]

Ok, would this be the external overflow version.....



I would love to read more about the Bean Animal, but I don't know where the original thread starts.

And what size bulkheads/plumbing would u recommend for a 185 gallon tank?

 

[uncleof6]

Ok, would this be the external overflow version.....



I would love to read more about the Bean Animal, but I don't know where the original thread starts.

And what size bulkheads/plumbing would u recommend for a 185 gallon tank?

Yes that would be the one.... i have drawings in photobucket also.


http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1310585

1.5" plumbing, but really depends on the flow rate.

 

[reefernutz]

I'm getting a 200g tank and will have an esternal overflow. Should I have one external overflow using 1-1/2" pipe, or two external overflows using 1" pipe? The tank is going to be 5' long and the overflows will be 12" long. Also, if I opt for the 1-1/2" pipe, will a 12" long overflow be big enough (12" long x 6" tall x 5" wide ID).

 

[anemoneguy]

im having a 40x24x24 tank built and ran across this thread. i was planning a center overflow. if i have 3 holes drilled in the overflow for the return, and 1 on each end for return, what size pipe should i use and can my overflow box go all the way to the bottom of the tank or does it need to be different?

 

[drparker]

1" pipe above and below the 3/4" bulkhead. IMPORTANT: The siphon and the open channel must be in the same overflow. The emergency in the other overflow, along with the return if you wish to use the bulkhead. I would use 1" pipe for the return above and below the bulkhead also.)

There will be no flow in the overflow with the emergency and return. Fill it with oolitic sand--mini DSB.

This was in response to a question on a 120g AGA with the dual built in overflows.

Has anybody done this? I have concerns around the stagnate water in the 2nd overflow. Even with a "DSB" there will be stagnate water on top to allow enough room for the emergency drains elbow.

 

[drparker]

Bump

 

[uncleof6]

This was in response to a question on a 120g AGA with the dual built in overflows.

Has anybody done this? I have concerns around the stagnate water in the 2nd overflow. Even with a "DSB" there will be stagnate water on top to allow enough room for the emergency drains elbow.

Don't know of anyone that has done this, it is all theoretical as far as I know. But if we use power heads as they should be used, the entire body of water in the tank should be in motion, due to the power heads, and the sump return. including the surface. If water does not flow over your "corner DSB" cut the teeth off the overflow, <shrugs> In principle, it is the same as a bucket DSB. The water does not need to flow down into the sand bed, rather just across the surface. As I said though, it is theoretical--waiting for a Guinea Pig. If you know sand beds, you know there is little risk, and something to gain--to what extent this small of a bed will give--that is the theoretical part.

 

[ut_vols13]

http://www.glassreef.com/basics_overflow.php

 

[uncleof6]

http://www.glassreef.com/basics_overflow.php

?!?!?!

 

[drparker]

Don't know of anyone that has done this, it is all theoretical as far as I know. But if we use power heads as they should be used, the entire body of water in the tank should be in motion, due to the power heads, and the sump return. including the surface. If water does not flow over your "corner DSB" cut the teeth off the overflow, <SHRUGS>In principle, it is the same as a bucket DSB. The water does not need to flow down into the sand bed, rather just across the surface. As I said though, it is theoretical--waiting for a Guinea Pig. If you know sand beds, you know there is little risk, and something to gain--to what extent this small of a bed will give--that is the theoretical part.

Thanks,

The elbow design of the full siphon drain and open drain, will cause the water level to be lower than the tanks in that overflow, like it is now.


But I'll have to figure out how to design the emergency drain so that water is not lower than the tank so I can have flow inside the other overflow. If it had an elbow it would start to function as a drain before the water leveled out.