Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[tangers]

Yeah I hear ya. 10x turnover, I'm just worried about that much water going through the sump/ filter socks. Would 1 1/2" still be sufficient for that if I did push out up to 5000? I don't think I would be going over 4500 though if it matters. Thanks again!

 

[noplay180]

Hello I really need some advice, whether I should go c2c or just a shorter overflow box if so what would be the proper length. I read somewhere in here that I could use the 1.5" bulkheads I am currently have a dart return pump thinking about upgrading to a hammer, my tank is 96x30x30, the 95" c2c worries me a little, please chime in on this so I can get to the fun stuff.

 

[active]

active:

It depends on the setup, but somewhere between 10%-20% of the flow.... When adjusting the system you will see the obvious "wide" sweet spot. Too much flow and air begins to become a problem... too little and you may end up sucking air in the siphon.

thank you for the reply sir. i cant wait to get it all set up. thank you also for the write up's and the how too's that you have posted.

 

[adnup]

Been a lot of questions asked concerning it, however, have yet to see a functioning example. Theoretically, it can be done, and work. I suspect part of the problem is fitting a 1" siphon, and a 1.25" open channel in the same small corner overflow.

Well this is what I came up with. Its a center overflow with 4 - 1" bulkheads. The pump(for now) with be a Snapper 2400gph. Left being full siphon, middle 2 emergency and right being open channel

Any thoughts or ideas will be great. Thanks!!

BTW - just a mock up no measure or glue yet.

 

[uncleof6]

Yeah I hear ya. 10x turnover, I'm just worried about that much water going through the sump/ filter socks. Would 1 1/2" still be sufficient for that if I did push out up to 5000? I don't think I would be going over 4500 though if it matters. Thanks again!

I would make the jump up to 2" for that yes. Filter socks? Hummm you got filter shoes? I don't use those particular items, just a needless expense in time and money.

 

[uncleof6]

Well this is what I came up with. Its a center overflow with 4 - 1" bulkheads. The pump(for now) with be a Snapper 2400gph. Left being full siphon, middle 2 emergency and right being open channel

Any thoughts or ideas will be great. Thanks!!

BTW - just a mock up no measure or glue yet.

Looks fine other than you want a 1.25" open channel on a 1" bulkhead. 1" is just too small for an open channel. When it comes time to clean out the pipes, and they do require it from time to time--as stuff grows in them--you will wish you had used the tees and removable caps. Why two emergencies?

 

[adnup]

Looks fine other than you want a 1.25" open channel on a 1" bulkhead. 1" is just too small for an open channel. When it comes time to clean out the pipes, and they do require it from time to time--as stuff grows in them--you will wish you had used the tees and removable caps. Why two emergencies?

Redundancy and there are already 4 holes drilled in the tank

 

[mseepman]

I'm in the process of building a house with a new 290g peninsula tank. I have an external overflow at one end of the tank 26" across. In that overflow I've got 3 x 1 1/2" bulkheads for the Beananimal Overflow system. While building the house I had to try to explain to the plumbers how to run the plumbing down to the basement where my fishroom is.

I've had them run 2 x 2" pipes up (one return and one for backup) along with 3 x 1 1/2" pipes up. I've attached a picture of the pipes running down the backside of my wall into the fishroom. Because of how my sump will be setup, I had them run the returns pretty much straight up and then my overflows to the other end of the sump. What this means is that I've got about 3 1/2' of horizontal pipe in the overflow path. Is this going to mean real problems in getting the system to run properly?

Inside the wall of my fishroom:

What it looked like within the fishroom prior to walls going up.

Here the pipes are coming out of the floor on the main level:

 

[uncleof6]

I'm in the process of building a house with a new 290g peninsula tank. I have an external overflow at one end of the tank 26" across. In that overflow I've got 3 x 1 1/2" bulkheads for the Beananimal Overflow system. While building the house I had to try to explain to the plumbers how to run the plumbing down to the basement where my fishroom is.

I've had them run 2 x 2" pipes up (one return and one for backup) along with 3 x 1 1/2" pipes up. I've attached a picture of the pipes running down the backside of my wall into the fishroom. Because of how my sump will be setup, I had them run the returns pretty much straight up and then my overflows to the other end of the sump. What this means is that I've got about 3 1/2' of horizontal pipe in the overflow path. Is this going to mean real problems in getting the system to run properly?

Inside the wall of my fishroom:

What it looked like within the fishroom prior to walls going up.

Here the pipes are coming out of the floor on the main level:

It is not written in stone, that a horizontal jaunt is going to be a problem. Generally would expect a long horizontal run to cause some issues, but again, not written in stone. If it were me, I would test the system, before sealing up the walls. Not just for this issue, but just as a darn good idea. IF there were to be issues of any sort later--well......

 

[noplay180]

Please help

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk

 

[yousmellsfishy]

Here's my adaptation of the Bean Animal overflow. This is in a 55 gallon tank that will eventually be connected to an adjacent 40 breeder with a 3" square tube that allows the inhabitants to go from one tank to the other (More on that when I start my build thread). I started by drilling the tank with 4 1.75" holes. Next I siliconed in a sheet of glass on an angle to form the weir. The bottom of the sheet is siliconed to the back glass and the ends touch the sides of the tank forming a "V" section at the top back of the tank. It is a true coast to coast. Water flows over the top of the sheet of glass and through the 4 1.75" holes into the overflow box that I have on the outside of the tank. The overflow is drilled for the 3 Bean Animal drains on the bottom. Instead of creating the drains with the sanitary tees and tops that unscrew to allow for cleaning, I've just left the bits above the bulkheads unglued so that they can be removed to allow for drain cleaning. I've tested it for a few days and it works like a charm. It takes about 3 flushes of the overflow box after a restart before it reaches the silent mode. When it's running it is truly silent. You have to actually look to see the water moving to know if it's working and its moving 720 gallons/hour!


here's the weir

Here's the overflow box:

Up and running now with only the sound of the fans in the lights to break the silence. Notice the laminar flow over the coast to coast weir. I used red for the 1/4 air tubing as an hommage to BeanAnimal and his beautiful graphics. :beer:

 

[d2mini]

How much of a "horizontal jaunt" could create a problem?
If my tank was up against the wall in one room (with an internal coast-to-coast), could i have the plumbing exit the back wall of the tank, go straight through the sheetrock wall into the next room and then 90 degrees down with the gate valves? So I guess we would be talking about maybe 8-10" of horizontal pipe.

 

[Barfly]

How much of a "horizontal jaunt" could create a problem?
If my tank was up against the wall in one room (with an internal coast-to-coast), could i have the plumbing exit the back wall of the tank, go straight through the sheetrock wall into the next room and then 90 degrees down with the gate valves? So I guess we would be talking about maybe 8-10" of horizontal pipe.

It's hard to anticipate the potential problems that true horizontal runs would cause. It is always best to use 45's instead of 90's when having to move the plumbing horizontally. Make sure to place the valve on the siphon drain BELOW the horizontal run.

HTH

 

[noplay180]

Have anyone used 2" bulkheads for the bean animal. If so what return pump are you using

 

[Barfly]

Have anyone used 2" bulkheads for the bean animal. If so what return pump are you using

IME, 2" drain lines require a minimum of 2500-3000gph being pushed through the drains in order for the siphon to function properly.

 

[uncleof6]

Would not consider using 2" below 3500 gph, and it is not really needed at that flow rate either.

 

[d2mini]

It's hard to anticipate the potential problems that true horizontal runs would cause. It is always best to use 45's instead of 90's when having to move the plumbing horizontally. Make sure to place the valve on the siphon drain BELOW the horizontal run.

HTH

Duh... you're right. I could use 45's.
So probably a downturned 45 right out the back wall of the tank and then a straight pipe (running at a 45 degree angle) through the house wall to another 45 degree elbow on the other side of the house wall to the gate valve?

Thanks!

 

[cal_stir]

I am planning a beananimal c2c on a 90g, I have done a ton of reading and research, and somewhere along the line I read that the bulkhead for the full siphon should be 1/2" lower than the open and emerg channels, is this correct?

Thanks

 

[Barfly]

I am planning a beananimal c2c on a 90g, I have done a ton of reading and research, and somewhere along the line I read that the bulkhead for the full siphon should be 1/2" lower than the open and emerg channels, is this correct?

Thanks

That would be fine. You just want to make sure that water enters the siphon drain prior to the open channel drain.

 

[Barfly]

Duh... you're right. I could use 45's.
So probably a downturned 45 right out the back wall of the tank and then a straight pipe (running at a 45 degree angle) through the house wall to another 45 degree elbow on the other side of the house wall to the gate valve?

Thanks!

That sounds like a fine plan.:thumbsup: