shelby_cos
New member
Return pump is a flowstar 1500 gal/hr, though I may upgrade that down the road
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
shelby_cos
New member
The tank I'm building for my upgrade will have a eurobrace, so my question is how far from the bottom of the eurobrace should I have the overflow? The tank will be 60x36x24h with the overflow on the 36" end
FishyFishy69
New member
I have a technical question. I am going through a wall, and want to make the tank flush to the wall, and bring the plumbing through the wall to the sump room. Will the length of that pipe allow this setup to work properly? It would be amazingly ideal if it would work lol.
System specs:
160 gallon 90"L X 19"D X 22"H
36" coast to cost internal style overflow
3 X 1.5" Bulkheads for drains.
Mag24 Return pump (with head loss and manifold loss, probably about 1500 GPH to returns)
System specs:
160 gallon 90"L X 19"D X 22"H
36" coast to cost internal style overflow
3 X 1.5" Bulkheads for drains.
Mag24 Return pump (with head loss and manifold loss, probably about 1500 GPH to returns)
shelby_cos
New member
Anybody?
picker
New member
> It would be amazingly ideal if it would work
You will never know unless you try! The key is air removal from the siphon line. First remove the huge air leak T on the sump side of the wall. Second perhaps a rectangular hole in the wall so you can use two 45 elbows will maximize the chance for air escaping while you cover the wall thickness to the sump.
Another idea is a large round hole. a 2" line will flow 1,800gph with a 2" head. so you could rase the sump off the floor and keep the pipe always flooded. This would make it easier to work on the sump, but be prepared for the sump to back flow into the DT such that both tanks will rest at the same level.
You will never know unless you try! The key is air removal from the siphon line. First remove the huge air leak T on the sump side of the wall. Second perhaps a rectangular hole in the wall so you can use two 45 elbows will maximize the chance for air escaping while you cover the wall thickness to the sump.
Another idea is a large round hole. a 2" line will flow 1,800gph with a 2" head. so you could rase the sump off the floor and keep the pipe always flooded. This would make it easier to work on the sump, but be prepared for the sump to back flow into the DT such that both tanks will rest at the same level.
uncleof6
Active member
If you are going to plumb out the back/end of the tank, you will need access to the overflow box to install the elbows, and service them if needed.
With a euro-brace that is going to be very difficult, unless the overflow box is very wide, and the euro relatively narrow.
In general, you want the top of the overflow box ~ 1" - 1.5" down from the euro. So the question is, given the euro, can you get the elbows in.
Considering the euro, I believe this tank is a good candidate for an internal/external setup. That way accessing the internal overflow would not be much of an issue.
shelby_cos
New member
Thanks for your reply, the eurobrace will be narrowed over the overflow to not cover it but allow access to the elbows, my main concern is the height, I don't want the water level too high or too low
Also can you explain what you mean by "a good candidate for an internal/external setup." ?
FishyFishy69
New member
I looked that up. Seems to be a little shorter than mine would be. My issue is, that I have to do one or the other. If I try it, then I have holes in the back of the tank, in my wall and a random useless overflow. lol
If this style dosn't work with an extended intake pipe, then I will have to do an external on the side.
I have a technical question. I am going through a wall, and want to make the tank flush to the wall, and bring the plumbing through the wall to the sump room. Will the length of that pipe allow this setup to work properly? It would be amazingly ideal if it would work lol.
System specs:
160 gallon 90"L X 19"D X 22"H
36" coast to cost internal style overflow
3 X 1.5" Bulkheads for drains.
Mag24 Return pump (with head loss and manifold loss, probably about 1500 GPH to returns)
Question, why can't you just use some flex pvc through the wall or maybe use a 45 so you have a down flow rather than a horizontal? Should be possible through the wall.
FishyFishy69
New member
Like this?
It would be so much easier if I had the space behind the tank to have the regular setup, but I can't afford to have the tank sitting out that far. It needs to be as close to flat against the wall as possible. Otherwise it gets too tight inbetween the tank and my kitchen island to walk through.
It would be so much easier if I had the space behind the tank to have the regular setup, but I can't afford to have the tank sitting out that far. It needs to be as close to flat against the wall as possible. Otherwise it gets too tight inbetween the tank and my kitchen island to walk through.
TheFishMan65
New member
FishyFishy69
New member
Sanitary T is the one as originally mentioned in the design. Its a sloped T fitting, like in my crude drawing lol.
Last edited:
dwolson2
New member
Have you thought about possibly cutting a square out of the sheetrock on the wall? The bulkheads would protrude into the wall, then a 45 down, then the link fishman posted, then ball valve and sump.
I would refinish the hole with some sort of "drip pan" under the bulk heads just in case, then sheetrock in the sump room, ro just put a wood frame around it so you can periodically check thats its ok(granted there will be a hole in the wall...lol
Visually, you shouldn't see it from the front if the back of your glass is painted and the tank is flush with the wall.
I really like that part, I would think that it might even work better than a sanitary tee.
TheFishMan65
New member
Yes, it is mentioned but it is not required as mentioned several times in the thread. The idea was that the slope could help keep the water laminar and quiter in the open channel. The 45 will do the same thing.
FishyFishy69
New member
So you think that I shouldn't have a problem if i have:
Elbow -- Bulkhead -- 45 -- 6" straight pipe -- the 45-Tee -- ball valve ?
I'm not incredibly worried about noise, more concerned about suction/siphon consistancy when running and starting up.
uncleof6
Active member
Like this?
It would be so much easier if I had the space behind the tank to have the regular setup, but I can't afford to have the tank sitting out that far. It needs to be as close to flat against the wall as possible. Otherwise it gets too tight inbetween the tank and my kitchen island to walk through.
Here's the thing. The tank should not be slammed against the wall. Any way you slice it, if you need to get behind the tank, on the tank side of the wall, you have to drain the tank, or tear down the wall. There is GOING to be a reason you need behind that tank at some point in time. The tank should be a reasonable distance from the wall, for ventilation reasons also, and that distance would accommodate your plumbing. A case of wanting your cake and eating it too. Sounds to me like you do not have enough space to reasonably put a tank in this location.
Going through a wall is easy, if you aaccept the idea that you need to cut a rectangular hole in the wall, to accommodate the 45° angle in the line needed to insure proper function of the system.
Will the system function with a straight shot through the wall off the bulkhead? It might, it is hard to say. We try to keep horizontal runs out of the system. If you go straight through, and it does not work quite well enough, then you are hosed. Probably better to do what is insured to work, and that is stick to the original design, drop straight down from the sani-tee, and 45° through the wall.
The tees are not necessary for function of the system (other than it is a modification of the original design.) They are needed (with a removable cap) if you ever need to clean the pipes out (and you will) without disassembling the whole thing. Seems a lot of folks like recommending options, without discussing the down side, or they substantially deviate from the original design.
FishyFishy69
New member
This is understandable. Stick with the original design... I know that obviously.
Also, the tank will still be 3.5" away from the wall allowing me an arms width of room in case I had to tighten a bulkhead or something.... But 3.5" and 6"+ is a big difference when it is being pushed so far out.
The tank is perfect for the location (it was custom built for the room). I would just rather have more 'walk-by' room to prevent scratches and such. The more room, the better in any case. The old tank in that location was 28" from the wall to the front pane. This one with the 19" and even the 6" or so that this drain setup will take up, is still less than the old one, and it was just fine. It would just work out better if I could have this drain setup.
I can easily do a vertical internal overflow with a herbie setup so that it comes out the bottom, but I really like this setup. Judinging by the concept and the 45 degree angled option, I certainly think that it would work. I might build a tester out of old tanks and plumbing I have lying around to see.
GROSSR
Active member
My overflow is finished but ugly. I had a choice of clear or opaque and I selected Opaque. I can see all those elbows and silicone patching to get the overflow water tight. I plan on putting a black piece of acrylic 1/2" beneath the top of the C2C and have it sit 1/2" beneath the C2C to cover the glass seam.
Also, I moved from a 29 Bio cube to a 46 bow. My ATO is using about 2 twice the water. Exact same lights.
Has anyone used black acrylic and is it really non see through?
Also, what has been your experience with top off water?
thanks
rich
Also, I moved from a 29 Bio cube to a 46 bow. My ATO is using about 2 twice the water. Exact same lights.
Has anyone used black acrylic and is it really non see through?
Also, what has been your experience with top off water?
thanks
rich
I used black acrylic 1" in my custom build and most definitely you can not see through it.....
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