Ahh, so my thinking was backwards then, so should I change the order so that I have 1" bulkheads instead of 1.5" or will that make a difference?
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Ahh, so my thinking was backwards then, so should I change the order so that I have 1" bulkheads instead of 1.5" or will that make a difference?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
The 1.5" bulkheads will not hurt anything and are (in fact) a good idea.
Dotterer
New member
Bean, would love to get your thoughts (from several posts above ) on what changes you would make to the system if you were using an external overflow and 1.5" bulkheads and pipe coming up through the external? do you need to reduce to the 1" inside the box (and if so, would you use the same hardware as the original?), or would you just use 1.5" pipe all the way through?
Uncle had stated there was some concern about it starting with the 1.5"
Thanks again - this thread is wonderful...
uncleof6
Active member
The concern is only information from several folks with ~ 1200 gph or lower, with 1.5" bulkheads, were having some starting issues. I have tried to keep it clear that it is only information, and just a caution, not written in stone.
GROSSR
Active member
I have finished my C2C and I absolutely love it, and think if it can be in a bedroom and no complaints, then the design is a real winner.
I have some operational issues and would be interested in others thoughts.
I found my male clown down in the sump, he does like to hang near the very top and follow bubbles over to the overflow. I temporarily put in some egg crate next to each elbow. I am not sure which elbow he went into, but the elbow that adjusts the flow is about 1/8 inch from the bottom of the C2C with the other elbow about 1/4 inch. Anyway, I didn't want to put the eggcrate against the wall of the overflow due to noise and splashing. Anyone have any ideas to contribute would be appreciated.
Secondly is top off. I have a slightly larger tank than before Hurricane Sandy, 46 bow, I put a lid on it and I am going through 1 gallon every 36 hours. Is the C2C with so much water exposed to air creating more evaporation. Is my evaporation rate inline with other?
thanks
rich
I have some operational issues and would be interested in others thoughts.
I found my male clown down in the sump, he does like to hang near the very top and follow bubbles over to the overflow. I temporarily put in some egg crate next to each elbow. I am not sure which elbow he went into, but the elbow that adjusts the flow is about 1/8 inch from the bottom of the C2C with the other elbow about 1/4 inch. Anyway, I didn't want to put the eggcrate against the wall of the overflow due to noise and splashing. Anyone have any ideas to contribute would be appreciated.
Secondly is top off. I have a slightly larger tank than before Hurricane Sandy, 46 bow, I put a lid on it and I am going through 1 gallon every 36 hours. Is the C2C with so much water exposed to air creating more evaporation. Is my evaporation rate inline with other?
thanks
rich
uncleof6
Active member
First take the lid off. That is counter-intuitive, and hinders your gas exchange by contributing to CO2 buildup in the system. Whether you realize it or not, it is a bad thing.
Average evaporation from a Marine system is 2 - 2.5 gallons per day. You are ahead of the curve. Install an ATO, with redundant back up, and take the cover off the tank.
Average evaporation from a Marine system is 2 - 2.5 gallons per day. You are ahead of the curve. Install an ATO, with redundant back up, and take the cover off the tank.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
The coast to coast (thin sheet of constantly moving water) is certainly aiding evaporation. 1 Gallon in 36 hours is not bad at all 
The problem with guarding only the standpipes is a fish getting stuck and exhausted in the strong current. It may be safer for him to make it to the sump. If it is a real concern in your tank then egg-crate along the length of the weir is going to be needed. I use it on my system due to the number of small fish I now have, and it works well with no noise.
The problem with guarding only the standpipes is a fish getting stuck and exhausted in the strong current. It may be safer for him to make it to the sump. If it is a real concern in your tank then egg-crate along the length of the weir is going to be needed. I use it on my system due to the number of small fish I now have, and it works well with no noise.
alessandro
New member
I need to know an important thing (for me):
I am obliged to put the ball valve of the siphon tube just below the overflow or can i put it without problems down, just over the sump?
I am obliged to put the ball valve of the siphon tube just below the overflow or can i put it without problems down, just over the sump?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
The short answer: Just above the sump will be fine (and is in fact prefered)....
The longer short answer: On a typical setup, the valve works just fine anywhere on the standpipe, as the drop is not enough to cuase cavitation. On longer drops (basement sumps) the valve must be toward the end of the standpipe to prevent cavitation. In some cases (even on a typical setup) lower the valve can also eliminate siphon starting (airlocking) issues.
The longer short answer: On a typical setup, the valve works just fine anywhere on the standpipe, as the drop is not enough to cuase cavitation. On longer drops (basement sumps) the valve must be toward the end of the standpipe to prevent cavitation. In some cases (even on a typical setup) lower the valve can also eliminate siphon starting (airlocking) issues.
alessandro
New member
Thank you very much!
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Your welcome.... Good luck with the build
GROSSR
Active member
Uncle/Bean : thanks for the ideas. I do have an ATO. I will remove the eggcrate. I agree about fighting the flow for who knows how long. He did get down into the sump just fine. More of an issue catching him in the sump than anything else.
As far as the lid, I cut the cover so the apollo LEDs are exposed. The lid has the left 13 inches and the right 13 inches covered. the entire rear of the hood, minus what hold it onto the tank is now open.
thanks again for the info.
rich
As far as the lid, I cut the cover so the apollo LEDs are exposed. The lid has the left 13 inches and the right 13 inches covered. the entire rear of the hood, minus what hold it onto the tank is now open.
thanks again for the info.
rich
LONEWOLF-ROCKS
New member
final check
final check
hi,i am finishing off my set up and i'am wondering if this set up will work.i got my 1 1/2" siphoning pipe 90 about 3/8" above the bottom of wier (wier is 2" )and the second about pipe about 5/8" above the same line will this still work i am planning for about 3000+ gph flow if that matters here.?see photo if it uploads thankx!!
final check
hi,i am finishing off my set up and i'am wondering if this set up will work.i got my 1 1/2" siphoning pipe 90 about 3/8" above the bottom of wier (wier is 2" )and the second about pipe about 5/8" above the same line will this still work i am planning for about 3000+ gph flow if that matters here.?see photo if it uploads thankx!!
Attachments
Dotterer
New member
Lonewolf - I can't answer your question, but it looks good! ( uncle or bean will be along shortly, I'm sure. )
How wide is your overflow? I'm making an external - and if I follow the 1.5 times the width of the hole you're making rule, would put the external overflow at 9 1/2 " if I'm using 1.5" pipe? (looks like you are too...)
)How wide is your overflow? I'm making an external - and if I follow the 1.5 times the width of the hole you're making rule, would put the external overflow at 9 1/2 " if I'm using 1.5" pipe? (looks like you are too...)
LONEWOLF-ROCKS
New member
my overflow minus the glass thickness is 30.5"long 6 "wide by 9.25"deep
Dangerwill
New member
When i glued in my standpipes the glue set before I realized that my overflow shifted. End result to have a correct overflow pipe I have a standpipe that is less than straight.
2 part question:
Is this a big deal?
Is this a big enough deal to cut it off and build another standpipe?
Just checking before i fill up my tank.
2 part question:
Is this a big deal?
Is this a big enough deal to cut it off and build another standpipe?
Just checking before i fill up my tank.
Last edited by a moderator:
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
1) No it will not harm the function of the standpipes at all (and in fact can help to ensure the open channel is silent, by forcing the water to run down one of the walls).
2) If you are concerned about aesthetics, then you can always turn the entire bulkhead (assuming you did not cement the elbows inside the overflow).
2) If you are concerned about aesthetics, then you can always turn the entire bulkhead (assuming you did not cement the elbows inside the overflow).
Dangerwill
New member
Thanks Bean,
the aesthetics are of no importance as you wont be able to see it anyway I just wanted to make sure that it wouldnt lead to problems. Thanks for the super fast response and Happy New Year!
the aesthetics are of no importance as you wont be able to see it anyway I just wanted to make sure that it wouldnt lead to problems. Thanks for the super fast response and Happy New Year!
LONEWOLF-ROCKS
New member
hi bean can you please tell me if the set up i have will work.photo is on my previous post.thankx!
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