Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[BeanAnimal]

Beach... a "coast to coast" overflow is simply 2 pieces of glass siliconed into place in an "L" shape.

Take a look at the main article here:
http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

Or the first page of the thread here:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1310585

 

[Beachbw68]

Bean I have read your article and that is why I am going forward with this design. I think I can do two peaces of glass. Do you gave a set hight to set the overflow 90s to the overflow box? Thank again this site has really help me.

 

[Tsmit2909]

Hi Bean, I'm new here to reef central and I'm just setting up my first SW tank. Anyways I really like all the detail and thought you have put into this design. Not to mention the amount of time you must too have spent on this thread just answering all of people's questions.

Anyways back to my question.... I am setting up a 40 gallon breeder and want to put it in my room so like you wanted I want it whisper quiet. I love your setup but I really don't want to have the tank sitting five inches or more away from the wall to have all the plumbing coming out the back. So I'm pretty sure I can do the same thing with three holes on the bottom of the tank and just have three standpipes and different heights? First the shortest for the siphon, a few inches higher for the second pipe that will take the excess, and the third being the tallest for the emergency. Anyways what's your thoughts on it?

It's all working out inside my head but I definately don't have the knowledge you do. So thanks for your help in advance.

 

[Tsmit2909]

Hi Bean, I'm new here to reef central and I'm just setting up my first SW tank. Anyways I really like all the detail and thought you have put into this design. Not to mention the amount of time you must too have spent on this thread just answering all of people's questions.

Anyways back to my question.... I am setting up a 40 gallon breeder and want to put it in my room so like you wanted I want it whisper quiet. I love your setup but I really don't want to have the tank sitting five inches or more away from the wall to have all the plumbing coming out the back. So I'm pretty sure I can do the same thing with three holes on the bottom of the tank and just have three standpipes and different heights? First the shortest for the siphon, a few inches higher for the second pipe that will take the excess, and the third being the tallest for the emergency. Anyways what's your thoughts on it?

It's all working out inside my head but I definately don't have the knowledge you do. So thanks for your help in advance.

 

[alessandro]

Why some emergency pipes are capped and some not?

 

[BeanAnimal]

tsmit:

If you do that inside the tank, without an overflow box, then you will get no surface skimming. You need an internal overflow box... You can still exit through the bottom of the box and tank (or the box can be the height of the tank) but either way, you lose a lot of realestate in a 40....

 

[ikkybeer]

Will a siphon start for me?

Will a siphon start for me?

Hi Guys,

Great information here, I've read many pages of posts but I can't find my problem(s) and I hope someone here can help. I have a 110 G 48" wide tank with a 40 G sump underneath. A couple of years ago I converted my biowheel setup to a sump/ref by drilling two 1.5" drains and one 1" return from an 1100 gph Iwaki pump. So far, so good, but now I want to get rid of all the unsightly plumbing from the top perimeter of the tank along with all the other benefits (surface skimming, noise, bubbles, etc.).

This is my problem. I drilled my holes as close to the rim (and trim) as possible, so my 1.5" drains are lower than my 1" return. One drain is approx 4.125" center-line to top of trim, the other is 4.4". My return is 3.3" center-line to top of trim. I was considering making my 1" return as a siphon drain line and use my two existing drains as the open and emergency drains.

If the top of my siphon line (the top of the inside dimension of 1") is higher than the top of my open drain (looks like it might be so by about 3/4"), will it still siphon? I hope one 1.5" drain with the air line is not enough to handle the pump capacity and will continue to let the water rise until the siphon line can purge the air and kick in.

If this will work, how far below the bottom of the lowest point of the open drain must my down-turned siphon pipe be to allow for it to avoid breaking the siphon should the water level dip down around the intake?

The other screw up was that I underestimated the amount of drainage from the display tank when the pump cuts off, so I had to add a 3 gallon overflow trash can to my sump. I hope that the coast to coast overflow will eliminate this if I add a couple of low baffles in the interior overflow box to minimize the amount of drainage when the pump cuts off. My return (proposed siphon drain) is in the middle and the 1.5" drains are approx 18" away on each side.

I hope this isn't too confusing. Thanks for anyone's help.

 

[TheFishMan65]

If you use all 3 holes for the drains then you need over the top return (unsightly plumbing). If this was my tank (I would have to see it for sure), I would do an inside box for surface skimming, let the water flow through the two bulk head holes (removebulk heads for more flow), and then add an external box with the 3 drains going out the bottom.

 

[mr.maroonsalty]

Coast to coast over the back is by far sexiest! Anyway, does anyone get noise after the valves? I'm building a full syphon system out of 1 1/2"; I'm afraid too much noise will come out of the sump, so I wonder if the valve should be at the sump's waterline in my design?

 

[uncleof6]

Coast to coast over the back is by far sexiest! Anyway, does anyone get noise after the valves? I'm building a full syphon system out of 1 1/2"; I'm afraid too much noise will come out of the sump, so I wonder if the valve should be at the sump's waterline in my design?

For a basement drop, the valve should be as close to the sump as possible. For a normal under-tank drop, it really does not matter, wherever might be convenient. Place the valve close to the sump, if you have a concern.

 

[Mr_Jones]

I'm looking on options to where to purchase some of of these items in Canada(GTA). I've tried all the standard places(lowes, home depot, home hardware, pool/spa places, online) can't find this stuff anywhere. If your in Canada please let me know what you have found. I can't find things like
Sanitary Tee
Street Elbow
3/8 John Guest
Gate Valve
I know there are some U.S website out there that deliver but I don't want to pay a fortune on shipping and customs. I also don't want to compromise like using a standard Tee instead of the Sanitary...
thanks

 

[mr.maroonsalty]

Depending on what size you are using those are all standard fittings; home depot stocks what it sells, where lowes will usually have a better selection, also JG or Watts fittings will be in a seperate section with the brass compression fittings. just ask for help. Lastly, open the phone book and go to the plumbing supply store, or check to see if Grainger or another supplier ships to you.

 

[mr.maroonsalty]

For a basement drop, the valve should be as close to the sump as possible. For a normal under-tank drop, it really does not matter, wherever might be convenient. Place the valve close to the sump, if you have a concern.

Thank you, I don't like doing things twice, especially if it envolves gluing up.

 

[uncleof6]

Depending on what size you are using those are all standard fittings; home depot stocks what it sells, where lowes will usually have a better selection, also JG or Watts fittings will be in a seperate section with the brass compression fittings. just ask for help. Lastly, open the phone book and go to the plumbing supply store, or check to see if Grainger or another supplier ships to you.

HD, Lowes, and other big box type stores do not carry JG fittings. The Chinese knockoffs they do carry, are substandard at best for our uses, and absolute garbage for any serious application.


Mr._Jones:

Also, I think perhaps, folks need to learn how to take more advantage of internet search engines: Very simple search terms with Google--"JG fittings Canada."

http://www.wattscanada.ca/pages/_products_sub.asp?catId=2719&parCat=2837

http://www.cwwltd.com/categoryfd/john-guest-fittings/58

http://www.canada-shops.com/stores/ecopurewater/c50939p89599.2.html

 

[mr.maroonsalty]

I have no trouble with any of the Watts fittings at HD. Google "Watts vs John Guest" plumbers use what their supply house carries. Ive used Watts connectors on my water plant which feeds my freezer and sink let alone my aquariums for 9 years without problems; maybe I'm just lucky without money to burn on shipping and more expensive plumbing that bonded professionals don't even insist upon using.

 

[Mr_Jones]

I have been to 2 different lowes and 4 different Home Depot's. None have Sanitary Tee
Street Elbow
3/8 John Guest
Gate Valve
I assure you in Canada the selection is very small at the big box stores. Uncle I appreciate the websites but honestly was looking for more generic places that I can purchase everything from. Looks like I have to go one by one. The PVC is 1.5" Anyone from Canada out there purchase this stuff?

 

[d2mini]

I've had several little watts ball valves break on me.
Never had a problem with JG.

 

[mr.maroonsalty]

Try looking for the plumbing and heating supply wholesaler in your area; if you can't find one call a plumber and ask where one is. The PVC gate valve could be a wee bit trickier. A sanitary tee could be made to fit with a wye and a 22"¢ street if you have one or just make one with a short piece of pipe; you'll have to adjust layout/measurements, but it should be easy enough to make it to the same place, just not as tightly.

 

[mr.maroonsalty]

I've had several little watts ball valves break on me.
Never had a problem with JG.

That's not really a part I see much of a commercial use for, so it's quality could be far less than par; do you ever break a Watts push connection? When I get my DI to my stand in the next few days I'll be finding out for myself how crappy the valve is.

 

[uncleof6]

The quality difference is readily apparent just by looking at the chinese knockoffs next to a JG fitting, so I am not going to get into a topical debate on the relative merits of junk. It is not a question of money to burn, or listening to "bonded" plumbers, which really means nothing in terms of knowledge of their trade, or quality of their work. It means they had money to burn for an insurance policy. (That is all a bond is.) Plumbers are like electricians: Nine out of ten I would not let near my house plumbing, let alone a high end aquarium--just as I would not let 9 out of 10 electricians near my main service panel.

Do we need high end fittings on an aquarium? That is debatable. For a length of air vent tubing that won't cause a flood if the fitting breaks? Debatable. However, the Chinese knockoff fittings are truly junk. Which is why they get used: cheap. Big Box stores keep surviving: they sell cheap junk. Everyone's sense of value is based on different "standards." Quality vs cheap.