Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[uncleof6]

First find out if the tank is tempered. Most 55 gallon tanks are tempered glass, all sides and bottom. If so you will not be drilling the tank.

 

[Jaybles]

First find out if the tank is tempered. Most 55 gallon tanks are tempered glass, all sides and bottom. If so you will not be drilling the tank.

I'm not 100% if its tempered or not. I'll find out when I take it to the glass cutters to get it drilled. Lets assume that it is not tempered what should I be looking for? ( if it is tempered ill be looking into a new tank)

 

[burban94]

I plan to install this overflow on my 125g tank. i am planning to use the internal/external setup to save a little space inside the tank. The external overflow dimensions are 22"L x 5"W x 6"H. My concern is caulking. Will regular aquarium silicone be enough to hold this "free floating" box or should I switch to industrial strenght silicone.

 

[Sacohen]

I'm not 100% if its tempered or not. I'll find out when I take it to the glass cutters to get it drilled. Lets assume that it is not tempered what should I be looking for? ( if it is tempered ill be looking into a new tank)

You can tell if the tank is tempered by doing the following.

http://www.salt-city.org/showthread.php?9542-How-to-tell-if-glass-is-tempered

If it is tempered you saved yourself a trip to the glass shop and the possibility of cracking the tank in transit.

 

[karsseboom]

I will be setting up my new tank thats acrylic with external overflows. In the instructions is says to use 1.5'' piping with 1'' bulk heads, are people still using 1.5'' pipe?

 

[Eud]

I'm planning holes for the back of my tank. Had decided on an internal/external design, but now I think I'll just go for the one standard one once I saw that the overflow box on BeanAnimal's is, I think 2.5" front to back, which doesn't seem that large to start with.

I have seen references in this thread and the original one to putting the open channel just a bit higher to assist in starting. Are there any posts here by BeanAnimal or uncleof6 or another plumbing guru that address this? I can't find it with search.

Also, is there a post with rules of thumb for 1" bulkhead hole spacing, distance of weir/overflow edge to bottom of full siphon or open channel overflow, etc?

I have a 48" wide rimless 75, so I think I'd center the holes for 1" ABS slip/slip bulkheads about 3.5" from the rim and do a box about 2.5" front to back and 5" deep with 2.75" between hole edges to keep them from being too close to each other. Then I'd make the overflow box about 36" wide and put some 90's on the ends sticking out of the box for the returns.

So 5 holes total with the two outer ones as returns and the three middle ones for drains.

Does this sound like a reasonable plan?

 

[Eud]

I'm planning holes for the back of my tank. Had decided on an internal/external design, but now I think I'll just go for the one standard one once I saw that the overflow box on BeanAnimal's is, I think 2.5" front to back, which doesn't seem that large to start with.

I have seen references in this thread and the original one to putting the open channel just a bit higher to assist in starting. Are there any posts here by BeanAnimal or uncleof6 or another plumbing guru that address this? I can't find it with search.

Also, is there a post with rules of thumb for 1" bulkhead hole spacing, distance of weir/overflow edge to bottom of full siphon or open channel overflow, etc?

I have a 48" wide rimless 75, so I think I'd center the holes for 1" ABS slip/slip bulkheads about 3.5" from the rim and do a box about 2.5" front to back and 5" deep with 2.75" between hole edges to keep them from being too close to each other. Then I'd make the overflow box about 36" wide and put some 90's on the ends sticking out of the box for the returns.

So 5 holes total with the two outer ones as returns and the three middle ones for drains.

Does this sound like a reasonable plan?

 

[tripdad]

Just wanted to say thanks for all the info on this thread. Have my 40 breeder up and running and it's quiet as a church mouse peein' on cotton. The loudest thing on the tank is the skimmer.

 

[puks]

Well guys. I'm completely lost in these 222 pages

I read the original article and hope understood it. But after I started to read the thread I'm getting more and more confused with all levels, '' and holes.

I'm going to order 120 gal 48x24x24 Miracle trimmed tank and ask to drill 5 holes on the back side: 3 BA pipes in the center and 2 return pipes near the sides.

- Should the holes be the same size?
- Should I ask to drill a little bit wider to insert 1" Bulkhead?
- Return holes will be 8" from the left and right sides.
- Internal overflow box will be centered and 28"
- What deep of the overflow should I have?
- Is water level and top of the overflow box on 1" from the top of glass? Is top of glass for trimmed tank = bottom of trim?
- Are all holes on the same offset from the top of glass? What offset should it be?


If you forward me to a topic that provides all information I don't mind to read it.

Thanks

 

[puks]

Well guys. I'm completely lost in these 222 pages

I read the original article and hope understood it. But after I started to read the thread I'm getting more and more confused with all levels, '' and holes.

I'm going to order 120 gal 48x24x24 Miracle trimmed tank and ask to drill 5 holes on the back side: 3 BA pipes in the center and 2 return pipes near the sides.

- Should the holes be the same size?
- Should I ask to drill a little bit wider to insert 1" Bulkhead?
- Return holes will be 8" from the left and right sides.
- Internal overflow box will be centered and 28"
- What deep of the overflow should I have?
- Is water level and top of the overflow box on 1" from the top of glass? Is top of glass for trimmed tank = bottom of trim?
- Are all holes on the same offset from the top of glass? What offset should it be?


If you forward me to a topic that provides all information I don't mind to read it.

Thanks

 

[adamwheel]

I've been planning the new build for months but I have a couple questions about the weir on an internal overflow setup as designed: I'm doing 1.5" bulkheads and PVC (only deviation that I'm aware of). As I measure it, from the back glass (gasket on the bulkhead) to the outer edge of the 90's is approximately 2.75".

1. Do I only need to allow enough room to clean around the 90's or is there a question of volume within the weir? I'm shooting for ~2500 gph. If it's simply a question of room to clean, I could place the weir ~3.25" from the back glass.

2. Can I place the bottom of the weir 0.5" from the bottom of the down-turned 90's or is that too close?

I know I've read some discussion about this somewhere in this beast of a thread.

Cheers,
Adam

 

[uncleof6]

I've been planning the new build for months but I have a couple questions about the weir on an internal overflow setup as designed: I'm doing 1.5" bulkheads and PVC (only deviation that I'm aware of). As I measure it, from the back glass (gasket on the bulkhead) to the outer edge of the 90's is approximately 2.75".

1. Do I only need to allow enough room to clean around the 90's or is there a question of volume within the weir? I'm shooting for ~2500 gph. If it's simply a question of room to clean, I could place the weir ~3.25" from the back glass.

2. Can I place the bottom of the weir 0.5" from the bottom of the down-turned 90's or is that too close?

I know I've read some discussion about this somewhere in this beast of a thread.

Cheers,
Adam

1) I would be more inclined to allow adequate room to get the elbows in the overflow to begin with, thus leaving adequate room to get them out as well. Everyone is trying to go minimal on the overflow width, but there is really no reason to do that. The area the overflow occupies, and the area below, to the bottom of the tank is "useless" area anyway. There should not be any rock or critters (other than those that swim through,) in that part of the tank. (a circulation issue.)

2) Again, I am not inclined to do bare minimums. 3/4" perhaps 1" is more reasonable.

 

[BigH2OChief]

Another "BeanAnimal Overflow" build kicked off!

Another "BeanAnimal Overflow" build kicked off!

Hello All,

I'm new to this Forum... not so new to the hobby, but am always learning! Over the past 10+ years I've done FW(Trop, Brackish and Amphib) and SW (Reef and FOWLR). That said, I have not tried the "BeanAnimal Overflow".

I spent the past weekend studying all things "Bean". With that inspiration I dug out a couple glass tanks (55L DT and 29G Sump) and banged out a stand thus starting a test build. I'm sold a C2C with classic Bean system and thinking CL(X2) w/ SQWD. Based on total volume and as this is a test build, I'm thinking 1" should do it but may change my mind before ordering the BHs and plumbing I don’t have on hand.

My big outstanding question which I could not conclude through research is: Can I run a C2C Weir at an angle vice a box (crude concept image attached)? I have the glass lid to the 55L and it fits perfect with no cutting or fabrication!


Looking forward to input and wish you all well ~ Woody


<a href="http://s15.beta.photobucket.com/user/Soul_surfer01/media/55LC2CAngledWeirConcept_zps5f95e3a1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a356/Soul_surfer01/55LC2CAngledWeirConcept_zps5f95e3a1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 55LC2CAngledWeirConcept_zps5f95e3a1.jpg"/></a>

 

[Eud]

I am unable to find a 1"street x 1.25" slip reducing elbow anywhere. I found a thread where the guy said he got a correspondence from BeanAnimal that the part was a Lasco 406-168, but that's a slip x slip reducing elbow, not a street one.

Does anyone have a source for these things? It would seem to need to go inside a 1" bulkhead (hence the street leg of it) and would have a 1.25 slip fitting on the down-turned part.

 

[uncleof6]

Hello All,

I'm new to this Forum... not so new to the hobby, but am always learning! Over the past 10+ years I've done FW(Trop, Brackish and Amphib) and SW (Reef and FOWLR). That said, I have not tried the "BeanAnimal Overflow".

I spent the past weekend studying all things "Bean". With that inspiration I dug out a couple glass tanks (55L DT and 29G Sump) and banged out a stand thus starting a test build. I'm sold a C2C with classic Bean system and thinking CL(X2) w/ SQWD. Based on total volume and as this is a test build, I'm thinking 1" should do it but may change my mind before ordering the BHs and plumbing I don't have on hand.

My big outstanding question which I could not conclude through research is: Can I run a C2C Weir at an angle vice a box (crude concept image attached)? I have the glass lid to the 55L and it fits perfect with no cutting or fabrication!


Looking forward to input and wish you all well ~ Woody

Have you drilled the tank yet? The reason I ask is that most 55 gallon tanks are made using tempered glass. If your tank is tempered, you won't be banging this system out. I suggest you start there.

I don't see any point to an angled weir. You still have to be able to get your hand in, and install the elbows. Angled in this manner, the overflow would be bigger than an "L" box (at the top.)

 

[BigH2OChief]

Thanks for the feedback Uncle.

As far as the Weir... makes good sense. Just me being lazy. I really dislike cutting glass. As far as the 55L... it passes the light diffusion test indicating it's not tempered. Of course there is low percentage of probability it is in fact not "“but- since this is an experiment (using stuff outta storage) I'll give it a go.

We will see once the drill bit arrives. I have an old ground cover staged and have covered the glass with painters tape to reduce the impact if this goes south. To quote our brothers across the pond "œWho dares wins".


De oppresso liber- Woody

 

[uncleof6]

Sine Pari.

 

[LONEWOLF-ROCKS]

"jj downs"is in the GTA near islington and bloor ("bering ave." i believe is actual name of street)has everything you could need and then some to do a beamsanimal set up.it's were i got all my stuff.good quality valves and JG parts as well.everything in one place no running around.

 

[mr.maroonsalty]

My full syphon vari

My full syphon vari

Do you think this will flow; what changes would you make? Im almost ready for glue up. The tank is a RR140; not my first choice in tanks but the used price for a low iron tank coupled with operating costs made it the right choice, so I'm working with what i have. Its mocked up for a duel syphon; I have two valves in the sump so I can keep the skimmer chamber's flow low. There is a hard plumbed constant flow drain, and an emergency drain dumping straight to the sump. The hybrid pump should supply low to mid 2000's gph (1 1/2" pipe, 7' run w/4.5' vert, 4 45• eblbows before to final Tee to 3/4" ARC stock overflow kit duel nozzels that i hope to upgrade) I want room to move up in volume if the system allows. I cut down the top of the overflows and will see if the sump will handle the volume of the overflows without using standpipes. I wish I had room for disconnects but reality is very tight with a 29g fuge draining to the
mechanical sump, and a wc reservoir still to be placed.

 

[uncleof6]

Do you think this will flow; what changes would you make?

Im almost ready for glue up. The tank is a RR140; not my first choice in tanks but the used price for a low iron tank coupled with operating costs made it the right choice, so I'm working with what i have. Its mocked up for a duel syphon; I have two valves in the sump so I can keep the skimmer chamber's flow low. There is a hard plumbed constant flow drain, and an emergency drain dumping straight to the sump. The hybrid pump should supply low to mid 2000's gph (1 1/2" pipe, 7' run w/4.5' vert, 4 45"¢ eblbows before to final Tee to 3/4" ARC stock overflow kit duel nozzels that i hope to upgrade) I want room to move up in volume if the system allows. I cut down the top of the overflows and will see if the sump will handle the volume of the overflows without using standpipes. I wish I had room for disconnects but reality is very tight with a 29g fuge draining to the
mechanical sump, and a wc reservoir still to be placed.

With little info to go on, and strictly from what I see, no it will not work properly--if your intention is a BeanAnimal drain system.

Looking at it, you have two siphons, joined together into a single pipe, of the same size, also horizontal runs. The dry emergency, looks to be a single line, but also has a horizontal run in it. Bean's system does not run two siphons, rather a siphon, an open channel (a durso) and a dry emergency. All three pipes must be used, and all three pipes must discreet, and they must be, or they will interact in the wrong manner, and you will have a mess to sort out. (not a flood, just a headache redoing everything.) Variations, of Bean's system, result in "something else." The "something else" should be in threads of their own, unless your intention is to do a Bean system.

By joining the two siphons, you are taking the combined flow from both, and sending it down a smaller line. If the drain system flows at all (does not air lock due to the horizontal runs,) the flow capacity will be hindered by the join. (larger cross-sectional area--2 pipes > smaller cross-sectional area--1 pipe of same diameter.) Never know, it may work, but it is not a good idea.

If you are planning 2000 gph, you need to do some re-studying of the two siphon systems that have been described, do one or the other--exactly as designed, or you are going to be asking for a flood.

Also that pump with the plumbing you are describing is most likely not going to get close to 2000 gph. (running it into a tee, reduction to 3/4" etc.) I did not do all the math, but just glancing at the description, that needs to be rethought as well.