Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[aus996]

I had another thread going but it would prob do better here ( I hope). I plan on doing the classic bean overflow setup but I need to fabricate my new acrylic tank first by adding an external overflow. The tank is 112 gal. I added a closed loop as you can see and now need to drill a coast to coast overflow on the back wall. I was thinking of leaving 3" on each end though.

If I drill 3/8" holes 1.5" long, space 3/4" will that be enough and sill keep the integrity of the tank? I would start the hole 1.5" from the top. Sound good?

Now if all that sounds right, I wanted to make the overflow box only as deep as I need it for the 1.5" drain pipes. Based on my overflow cuts will that produce enough water to enter for the 1.5" drain pipes? I realize that the pump choice and size factors in as well. Any thoughts on brand and size of pump?

For wier depth just remeber to allow for the downturned elbow and anything else you might add into this (strainer for example). If you make it too shallow you'll have to muck around shaving down the elbow etc, real pain in the butt:bigeyes:
I'd reckon you could err on going deeper in the wier without too much worry,the beauty of the system is that you can tune the pipes to suit the flow of the return pump regardless of the size of your wier (within reason of course)

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[Eud]

Has it really been almost a full day and no updates to this thread?

Lubecky, I'd get a router, put a pair of slots in the back of that nice acrylic tank that match the eurobraced openings in the top, solvent-weld an acrylic overflow box to the back, and put some bulkheads in the bottom of it for a nice quiet overflow.

 

[BeanAnimal]

As Eud mentioned... you can use a router and a guide to cut the slots. The overflow box (solvent welded to the back of the tank) will help stiffen it.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Jim...

Ygm

 

[uncleof6]

Jim...

Ygm

Roger.

 

[meegwell]

It sounds like its not staying at full siphon, air leaks aside, you have also added a union into the mix and cleared some blockages. You will need to retune your system again. Start by playing with the ball valve progressivley clsoing it off. You may also find you might need to shorten the length of pipe into the sump not by much but it can make all the difference. If you are sure there are no air leaks this is where I would start

Thanks aus. i've got tuning this sytem down to a science. Yeah, i actually replaced two offsetting 45s with more horiz., increased fuge flow, along with clearing the clog. Total re-tune.

Im running my overflow level high enough to avoid a little tornado suction and the consistent blast of bubbles out of the pipe is leading me to believe i messed up a connection...likey the coupling that goes through the drywall.

 

[Lubecky]

As Eud mentioned... you can use a router and a guide to cut the slots. The overflow box (solvent welded to the back of the tank) will help stiffen it.

Lubecky, I'd get a router, put a pair of slots in the back of that nice acrylic tank that match the eurobraced openings in the top, solvent-weld an acrylic overflow box to the back, and put some bulkheads in the bottom of it for a nice quiet overflow.[/QUOTE]


Thanks guys I'm glad to hear more people vote for the two slots. Do you think 3/8" hole and 1.5" down from the top of the tank will be a good choice? I did get the router tonight and would like to start the job the next day once I hear back about my dimensions I need to read up on the "solvent weld", I'm not familiar but I thought I saw that the bean overflow had bulkheads in the bottom of the overflow ??? Which I was planning on following.

 

[Lubecky]

I just realized that I didn't know the technical term for welding acrylic. Whoops. Any suggestions on my questions above?

 

[aus996]

Thanks aus. i've got tuning this sytem down to a science. Yeah, i actually replaced two offsetting 45s with more horiz., increased fuge flow, along with clearing the clog. Total re-tune.

Im running my overflow level high enough to avoid a little tornado suction and the consistent blast of bubbles out of the pipe is leading me to believe i messed up a connection...likey the coupling that goes through the drywall.

Guaranteed it will be the one that is hardest to get to, always start with that one first:lolspin:

 

[TJ_Mac]

Would I be able to use an Eheim Compact +5000 on a Beananimal for a 75G? I know it's not going to be ideal, but would it be serviceable? Thanks.

 

[uncleof6]

The drain system is only going to drain what you send up to the tank. It cannot drain more than that. So if your system, is under powered, the drain system is not going to care.

 

[TJ_Mac]

The drain system is only going to drain what you send up to the tank. It cannot drain more than that. So if your system, is under powered, the drain system is not going to care.

Great! Thank you so much! I still have so much to buy and another pump was not on my list at the moment.

 

[Lubecky]

Can you make all three drainpipe parts be 1.5"? I'm sure this had been asked a thousand times but I thought I read that the reason for the slip was because he had 1" bulkheads on hand. So if all parts listed in his photo are 1.5" I should be good right?

 

[Kawi9_cf]

Can you make all three drainpipe parts be 1.5"? I'm sure this had been asked a thousand times but I thought I read that the reason for the slip was because he had 1" bulkheads on hand. So if all parts listed in his photo are 1.5" I should be good right?

Yes, that will work just fine.

 

[Lubecky]

Kawi is that what you did or have seen someone else do?

 

[Kawi9_cf]

I am only running a 60 gallon cube so I didnt want 1.5" plumbing I used 1.25".

I have read this entire thread from Beans very first post. It has been mentioned several times in this thread and it has also been mentioned in several other threads I have read. It is a pretty common question.

Many people have used 1.5" bulkheads without any troubles.

 

[uncleof6]

Can you make all three drainpipe parts be 1.5"? I'm sure this had been asked a thousand times but I thought I read that the reason for the slip was because he had 1" bulkheads on hand. So if all parts listed in his photo are 1.5" I should be good right?

It depends. The only reason to up size the bulkhead, would be to target a higher than average flow rate, with a relatively short drop. The system works well as designed, with a very wide bandwidth. (range of flows)

For example. You have a 24" drop (water level in overflow to water level in sump) The 1" bulkhead will flow ~ 1600 gph, with no pipe, so figure ~1500 gph with 1.5" pipe (less friction loss than 1" pipe.) So for ~1500 gph or less, there is no reason to use a larger bulkhead. With 1" pipe ~1200 gph give or take, would not be unexpected. Of course, this includes the flow rates leading up to the "max values" (ball park....) as well. I have not explored the lower end of the scale, but some have reported starting issues, with low flow rates and 1.5" bulkheads. It could be a number of things causing the start issue, however.

The numbers go up from there, with increasing the length of the drop. The pipe size, is about decreasing the friction loss in the drain line.

 

[Lubecky]

Can I use just a 90 1.5" at the beginning instead of a street elbow since I will be using a 1.5" bulkhead??

 

[Lubecky]

Thanks all. Didn't see the posts before my last question. I will just stick with the design bean had pictured on his website.

 

[deaclauderdale]

I have a question:

In the pictures above you can see where my pipes end, Bean I'd like to know what type of 'tubing' that you used (black tubing), to connect to the pvc and terminate into the sump? I'm going to need some.