Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[rayn]

Working on setting up a tank I tore down almost a year ago. It has the bean design already drilled into it. 3 drains all 1" going into 1.5" lines, then two return lines. I did a C2C, but plan on doing just a internal overflow slightly smaller then C2C this time and keep the returns from going through the overflow area.

This is going to be a in wall build in my living/kitchen area, but where I am placing it dictates the height of the tank. This will make my stand 24" off the floor. Considering in sump skimmer heights what they are this will mean a sump turned 90 degrees from the tank. Do I need to upsize any of the plumbing to make this work? I imagine in my head a pair of 45 degree bends to make the pipes hit sump.

 

[Jrod4]

I've got my BA setup now and it seems to be running just fine, it self tunes whenever I cut off the power or if I am messing with the water volume.

My only question is about the noise of it. The waterflow into the box is dead silent, as is the water being sucked into the elbows. However I can hear the water running down the pipes, but its not necessarily a gurgling noise. Is this normal or should it be dead silent? All of the piping has been cemented except for the last 45 elbow and straight piece into the overflow, I didnt want to glue that until I knew I had that part correct, just incase I had to take out the pipe and cut it shorter or replace it with a longer pipe.

 

[uncleof6]

Uncle, i guess i should mention that its a rimless tank..
Good to know the distances on the holes from the side and from eachother..

Knowing that the tank is rimless, does that make my dims work as planned?
So i will keep the holes all at the same level, (KISS) right?

I have to have everything planned out at the same time, as the tank is being custom built..

So if i have all the holes drilled at 3" from top of the tank, how deep should my overflow be with the top of the weir at 1" from top if tank?
5"?
6" maybe?

I would suggest that you mock up the assembly. Measure from the centerline of the elbow to the bottom of the elbow (downturned) then add ~3/4". Not all elbows are created equal.

On a rimless, you can tighten up the dims a little bit. Technically, without the trim involvement, you could set the hole center 2 3/4" down from the top of the glass, and be good. Ideally, you want the drop to the water level in the overflow to be ~1" (the shorter the quieter.) And 2 3/4" gives you 1 7/8" clearence from the top of the glass to the hole, and right around a 1" drop to the top of the downturned elbows, which is pretty much where the water level will be, if the system is adjusted right. You will get around a 1/4" head height behind the weir, so total drop would be around 1.25" anyway... 3" down works, with the corresponding drop increase. We're dealing with 1/4" here, so it is not that critical. 4 inches down would raise my eyebrows...

Overflow bottom depth: Top of weir to bottom = 1.75"(hole center) + .75 (below the elbow) + x, where x = distance from hole center to bottom of elbow.

 

[T1mcyn7]

Could someone help me out please?
I have a 6x2x2ft, 180gal tank getting built. I was asked where i wanted the holes for the overflow. Im going to go with the Bean oveflow. My pump is a 900gph. I have the return line sorted out.
1, Where do i get the holes drilled? ie how far from the sides and how far down from the top of the tank? Mainly need to know how far down from the rim of the tank?
2, What size pipe ( not holes ) do i go? i think 1'' is fine for the main syphon, but cant hurt to go 1 1/4''?
3, I read that all the pipes are on the same level axis, is this true? or should the main drain be a little lower?

I have read almost all the thread, but im so confused lol. I have one chance to drill the holes in the right spot, so want to get it right.

 

[eledile]

I would suggest that you mock up the assembly. Measure from the centerline of the elbow to the bottom of the elbow (downturned) then add ~3/4". Not all elbows are created equal.

On a rimless, you can tighten up the dims a little bit. Technically, without the trim involvement, you could set the hole center 2 3/4" down from the top of the glass, and be good. Ideally, you want the drop to the water level in the overflow to be ~1" (the shorter the quieter.) And 2 3/4" gives you 1 7/8" clearence from the top of the glass to the hole, and right around a 1" drop to the top of the downturned elbows, which is pretty much where the water level will be, if the system is adjusted right. You will get around a 1/4" head height behind the weir, so total drop would be around 1.25" anyway... 3" down works, with the corresponding drop increase. We're dealing with 1/4" here, so it is not that critical. 4 inches down would raise my eyebrows...

Overflow bottom depth: Top of weir to bottom = 1.75"(hole center) + .75 (below the elbow) + x, where x = distance from hole center to bottom of elbow.

Okay, so I get everything except for what's in bold....I think..
Is the 1.75 the distance from the top of the weir to hole center, or are we talking about the diameter of the hole for the bulkhead? or are you implying to multiply 1.75 by the distance to the center of the hole? And is that 1.75" based on the center of hole being 2 3/4" down or 3" down?

So for the way I first perceived the equation, if x was 1.25", then the total height of the box would be 3.75"?

Or am I misunderstanding..Math was my worst subject in school..:headwally:

 

[eledile]

Could someone help me out please?
I have a 6x2x2ft, 180gal tank getting built. I was asked where i wanted the holes for the overflow. Im going to go with the Bean oveflow. My pump is a 900gph. I have the return line sorted out.
1, Where do i get the holes drilled? ie how far from the sides and how far down from the top of the tank? Mainly need to know how far down from the rim of the tank?
2, What size pipe ( not holes ) do i go? i think 1'' is fine for the main syphon, but cant hurt to go 1 1/4''?
3, I read that all the pipes are on the same level axis, is this true? or should the main drain be a little lower?

I have read almost all the thread, but im so confused lol. I have one chance to drill the holes in the right spot, so want to get it right.

For answers to question 1 look at the bottom of the last page. Uncleof6 just gave that answer to me.

 

[MattM3]

"The CAP on the Open Channel standpipe was drilled, tapped and then threaded to accept a standard John Guest airline fitting."

How do you thread the hole you drill for the fitting? I'm thinking you just drill a hole slightly smaller and then just pretty much twist until it goes in. Seal with a little bit of silicone?

 

[Fishmommy]

You thread holes with a tap.

 

[Tom39]

You thread holes with a tap.

+1
Most plumbing supply and even big box hardware stores carry a selection of common small size taps. Here is a cheap 6 pc set from harbor freight. I dont imagine it is of the highest quality but then again you are tapping plastic.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-pipe-tap-die-set-91395.html

Hope it helps

 

[MattM3]

That is awesome. Thank you for such a quick reply. I honestly had no idea what a tap was.

 

[chevignons]

LoneRanger:

You asked how to support the standpipes in your setup

Here is the easiest way to do it. The velcro straps are attached to the brackets with epoxy (screws could be used instead).

Savko, and others also sell plumbing support brackets that could be fitted to a wood extension.

Nice !

 

[chevignons]

Can I do this with 2 Sumps 2 Return ?

I can't find the 1" Gate Valve from HomeDepot, where I can get it ?

Do you recommended grill a Glass Tank with 3 holes or get a Acrylic Tank ?

and deep is the overflow box in the Display tank ? thanks

 

[MattM3]

Google is your friend. Search for glass vs acrylic aquariums. Acrylic scratches easier, but you can glue plastic overflows to it. Glass is cheaper I believe and does not scratch as easy. You cannot glue plastic things permanently to glass. I'm not sure if they sell a gate 1" valve at home depot. I purchased mine online.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Chevignos...

It sounds like you may be getting ahead of yourself.... Choice of tank material will be dictated by many things, not just the style of overflow you wish to setup. Tanks size and location are important considerations.

In any case, there is no good or easy way to incorporate (2) or more separate sumps into ANY system, as there is no way to keep them synchronized. One will end up empty and the other overflowing.

So before spending time designing the overflow, you have some research to do. Maybe the "new to the hobby" forum and/or the "equipment" forum would be a good starting point.

As for my opinion: For anything under maybe 220 gallons, I prefer glass tanks simply because glass does not scratch as easily as acrylic. Above 220 gallons or so, glass is much heavier than acrylic and becomes a logistical nightmare with regard to moving.

 

[marty9876]

Any input on which I should use for full siphon greatly appreciated: 400g tank one overflow inside tank drilled through the bottom. Three lines lead to my basement sump room, two 2" lines and one 1.5" line. Intended flow into tank is around 1800gph.

Use the 1.5" as full siphon or a 2" line?

Thoughts?

 

[BeanAnimal]

The 1.5 inch standpipe will easily handle the flow.

 

[chevignons]

Google is your friend. Search for glass vs acrylic aquariums. Acrylic scratches easier, but you can glue plastic overflows to it. Glass is cheaper I believe and does not scratch as easy. You cannot glue plastic things permanently to glass. I'm not sure if they sell a gate 1" valve at home depot. I purchased mine online.

Thanks for your info

 

[chevignons]

Chevignos...

It sounds like you may be getting ahead of yourself.... Choice of tank material will be dictated by many things, not just the style of overflow you wish to setup. Tanks size and location are important considerations.

In any case, there is no good or easy way to incorporate (2) or more separate sumps into ANY system, as there is no way to keep them synchronized. One will end up empty and the other overflowing.

So before spending time designing the overflow, you have some research to do. Maybe the "new to the hobby" forum and/or the "equipment" forum would be a good starting point.

As for my opinion: For anything under maybe 220 gallons, I prefer glass tanks simply because glass does not scratch as easily as acrylic. Above 220 gallons or so, glass is much heavier than acrylic and becomes a logistical nightmare with regard to moving.

Thank you !

 

[MattM3]

Flow Order

Flow Order

Hi guys,

Does the order of siphon and drain matter in the overflow box? Since the drain is pulling the majority of the water, wouldn't it be preferred to have the most powerful one in the middles so it drains more equally on the overflow box? Basically, the way my sump is designed does not line up to have the full drain pipe in the middle of the tank. I could easily reroute them so that the full drain is in the middle, but the pipes would have to cross and it wouldn't look as clean. The filter sock is where the full drain empties into on the far right of the sump.

I provided an external link for my sketchup design. I didn't want to directly embed it because it is so large.

http://i.imgur.com/1v47Sez.jpg

Thanks!

 

[rhwimmers]

My BA is really loud but I think the majority of the noise is actually the waterfall from the teeth of the overflow down about 20" do where the water line is IN the overflow (overflow is in the tank, bottom drilled). I don't think it would be easy to extend my current BA higher so the water doesnt drop as far (limited working space and already glued). Any ideas on how to quiet this part down?