Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[joffy]

hi guys,

first post here on the forum which is due to some extensive research and found the BeanAnimal Overflow method.

I have a question regarding it however, and not certain if it has been asked before so if it has then I do apologise.

My setup is going to be a freshwater discus tank. I am manufacturing the tank, stand and sump all from scratch. The question in hand however is do I need a Calfo Overflow? I cant see the point in having the weir effect and also I am wanting to minimise the amount of hardware in the main tank as much as possible. I was thinking about a way to fashion the elbows with a grate to stop the fish from being sucked up.

Thoughts or comments?

Cheers, Joffy :bounce3:

 

[ojonas81]

Have read through many many pages of this thread without finding a conclusive answer. What is the optimum distance from the top of the overflow (DT water level) to the top of the turned down elbow for the full siphon and OC?I have done all the plumbing but the length of the pipes in the overflow.

Thanks!

 

[BeanAnimal]

hi guys,

first post here on the forum which is due to some extensive research and found the BeanAnimal Overflow method.

I have a question regarding it however, and not certain if it has been asked before so if it has then I do apologise.

My setup is going to be a freshwater discus tank. I am manufacturing the tank, stand and sump all from scratch. The question in hand however is do I need a Calfo Overflow? I cant see the point in having the weir effect and also I am wanting to minimise the amount of hardware in the main tank as much as possible. I was thinking about a way to fashion the elbows with a grate to stop the fish from being sucked up.

Thoughts or comments?

Cheers, Joffy :bounce3:

The coast-to-coast overflow not only generates a tremendous amount of surface skimming, but also promotes gas exchange. The benefits are not just for reef tanks!

I am sure you could fashion the standpipe system to work without an overflow box, but you would then lose all surface skimming and gas exchange. If you are building the tank, you can incorporate any kind of guarding you wish to prevent the discus from finding their way to the sump.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Have read through many many pages of this thread without finding a conclusive answer. What is the optimum distance from the top of the overflow (DT water level) to the top of the turned down elbow for the full siphon and OC?I have done all the plumbing but the length of the pipes in the overflow.

Thanks!

In most cases, the distance is not calculated, but simply a function of the weir height (usually the bottom edge of the trim) in relation to the bulkhead centerline (usually 2 diameters from the top edge of the glass).

For an external overflow box, this may change and is simply a function of the box height in relation to the slot or bulkhead pass-throughs and the height of the standpipes (a smart design allows adjustment).

 

[monkiboy]

thank you to bean animal and all the contributions in these threads.

i have a 265 that i am setting up and getting ready to do plumbing.

i have a 4" long internal mailbox-style overflow.

there are four 1.5" holes in the back pane that feed the external overflow box that have three 1.5" bulkheads on the bottom of the external overflow box for the bean animal drains.

the photos in this thread helped a lot and i hope that perhaps the above helps someone as well.

i am planning on doing the plumbing now and am wondering if i can have full-siphon drain open with a strainer on the bulkhead instead of any piping?

like this?

any reason not to as a manner to eliminate extra plumbing?

 

[Davi37ggs]

You asked how to support the standpipes in your setup

 

[mathewpike]

Open Channel Air Valve

Open Channel Air Valve

Hi

First post here, after about 12 months reading through this entire thread (and the preceeding one). But I dont think I have seen anyone mention or ask about the airline valve on the open channel line.

What I am assuming is that it allows air to flow INTO the pipe (so the 'in' is connected to the tubing that goes back into the weir and the 'out' is screwed into the cap). Is this correct?
I have completed all the other plumbing and now have this little bit left to complete.

Thanks in advance.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Mathew...

I am a bit confused but will try to help. I am not sure what "in" and "out" are in reference to. The open channel standpipe is equipped with a simple fitting that allows attachment of a small section of tubing. The tubing is curled over and attached so that it becomes submerged if the water level in the weir rises too high. As long as it is not submerged air will be drawn in by the suction created from the water falling through the standpipe. If the water level in the weir rises and the airline becomes submerged, the standpipe's mode of operation will shift from "open channel" flow to "siphon flow". It is a very simple passive (non-mechanical) fail-safe.

 

[monkiboy]

i am planning on doing the plumbing now and am wondering if i can have full-siphon drain open with a strainer on the bulkhead instead of any piping?

any reason not to as a manner to eliminate extra plumbing?

when someone has a moment, can i please receive a reply to my query? i will be plumbing tomorrow - thanks!

 

[Powederblue]

What would be my best option for my 210 dual overflows with all 1 inch holes? I have the megaflow kits that came with it. What you guys thoughts?

Thanks
Casey

 

[SGT_York]

Monkiboy,
Yes so long as it is completely submerged that is how most herbie designs are executed.

Best method to plum an existing Reef Ready Tank is using a Herbie, The BA setup is far superior but taking out the overflows and dealing with bottom drilled holes usually dictates a herbie setup.
With Dual overflows you can run two herbies and constantly balance them or T them together near the middle of the tank and have one gate valve below. Increase the pipe dimensions just prior to the T so one overflow won't drain more than the other resulting in different water heights.

Durso's are near silent in low flow situations, for smaller tanks they work fine. Anything over 250-300 GPH a herbie or BA is a better setup, Uncleof6 is sure to provide an emphatic dissenting opinion. The fact is it has worked just fine for a long time only when you push the limits of a duso do you get loud noise. The other downside is water splashing in the sump which spray's salt and makes some noise, but it is the shifting from air and water to just water and back to air and water that makes the slurping loud sounds.

 

[mathewpike]

Mathew...

I am a bit confused but will try to help. I am not sure what "in" and "out" are in reference to. The open channel standpipe is equipped with a simple fitting that allows attachment of a small section of tubing. The tubing is curled over and attached so that it becomes submerged if the water level in the weir rises too high. As long as it is not submerged air will be drawn in by the suction created from the water falling through the standpipe. If the water level in the weir rises and the airline becomes submerged, the standpipe's mode of operation will shift from "open channel" flow to "siphon flow". It is a very simple passive (non-mechanical) fail-safe.

After reading this I realise where I have created confusion for not only myself but everyone reading my stupid question. I thought the John Guest airline fitting was an airline check valve. Now i see it was just a way to get the tubing attached to the PVC cap properly. :headwally:

Thanks for the quick reply, and if you haven't heard it enough from over 300 odd pages of posts, thanks for taking the time to compile and provide a great set of detail on your setup, it has been a great help.

 

[MattM3]

My brother and I paid someone to do a coast to coast overflow, because honestly when I do work with silicone it looks terrible. Somewhere there was a mistake in either the drawings or by the person we paid that resulted in the bulk heads being about 1/4" from the bottom of the coast to coast overflow.

There is no room for a downward turned 90 degree elbow. However, there is plenty of room for a straight horizontal strainer or even a 45 degree bend from the bulk head.

I understand the purpose of the upward turned 90 degree elbow for the emergency valve in which I have enough room for. My question is, would I be ok with using a 45 degree bend or a straight horizontal strainer for the full siphon and drain instead of the two downward bending 90 degree elbows?

Thanks!

 

[uncleof6]

Take the tank back and say "WHAT? You can't follow simple instructions?" It will probably be ok, but personally I would bite the bullet and have the overflow bottom lowered. As long as you get the system up and running without a vortex forming on the drain inlets, a bit different, but it should work.

 

[saf1]

Currently reading two threads which I guess are a bit old. The herbie one and the beananimal before the split. Interesting reading but since I've found a tank that I can either drill (non tampered back wall glass) or they will build/modify for me this got me thinking.

It may not matter I guess, but what about feeding and evaporation? I'd imagine food would go over rather quickly if it stayed on the surface.

 

[MattM3]

Take the tank back and say "WHAT? You can't follow simple instructions?" It will probably be ok, but personally I would bite the bullet and have the overflow bottom lowered. As long as you get the system up and running without a vortex forming on the drain inlets, a bit different, but it should work.

I can't take it back because I think it was my fault for not specifying where to measure from. The brace or black part length is different from the back of the tank is different than looking from the front of inside of the tank. I could modify an elbow by cutting it a little short, but I thought the strainers might offer a good alternative?

I don't really see how it will be any different because I am not certain what the function is of the 90 degree bend. It might even be better than the 90 degree elbows. I will give it a try and report in.

 

[uncleof6]

I can't take it back because I think it was my fault for not specifying where to measure from. The brace or black part length is different from the back of the tank is different than looking from the front of inside of the tank. I could modify an elbow by cutting it a little short, but I thought the strainers might offer a good alternative?

I don't really see how it will be any different because I am not certain what the function is of the 90 degree bend. It might even be better than the 90 degree elbows. I will give it a try and report in.

To prevent a vortex from forming at the drain inlet...

 

[HarlequinTusk]

So many pages to read through! I'm sure if I read through them all I'd find my answer, but I'm hoping some that's already read through them all can answer my questions.

I'm sold on the idea of a "Silent and Safe Overflow System". I have a 90g All-Glass aquarium with the corner overflow system. By default, it's setup to use the two pre-drilled holes for one intake and one outtake.

Is it possible to route all three of the "Silent and Safe" overflows to my one drain pipe? I doubt this would work, but didn't want to make any assumptions.

If not, it is possible to accomplish the same thing using both holes (bulkheads)? Of course I'd have to route the inbound water to the top of the tank.

Or do I need to drill a couple of holes in the glass behind the overflow area and route my two extra drains there?

 

[uncleof6]

So many pages to read through! I'm sure if I read through them all I'd find my answer, but I'm hoping some that's already read through them all can answer my questions.

I'm sold on the idea of a "Silent and Safe Overflow System". I have a 90g All-Glass aquarium with the corner overflow system. By default, it's setup to use the two pre-drilled holes for one intake and one outtake.

Is it possible to route all three of the "Silent and Safe" overflows to my one drain pipe? I doubt this would work, but didn't want to make any assumptions.

If not, it is possible to accomplish the same thing using both holes (bulkheads)? Of course I'd have to route the inbound water to the top of the tank.

Or do I need to drill a couple of holes in the glass behind the overflow area and route my two extra drains there?

No, that does not work. Sorry. All three pipes need to be "discreet" lines (seperate.) Also, it takes three holes to run a BA system. You may look into a "herbie" if you do not wish to further modify the tank.

 

[HarlequinTusk]

No, that does not work. Sorry. All three pipes need to be "discreet" lines (seperate.) Also, it takes three holes to run a BA system. You may look into a "herbie" if you do not wish to further modify the tank.

That's what I figured. Thanks for your response.