Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[Kyle918]

I am not liking 1/2" clearance. 3/4" or even 1" would be more comfortable.

Function comes before aesthetics; I find this "minimizing intrusion" trend to be a bit silly. I understand it, but function comes first. While I am at it, the back to front width needs to be wide enough to get your hand in and R & R the elbows.

I agree about function first. It didn't raise any concerns until I actually saw the lack of clearance. This is actually my first salt water tank. My largest tank until now was a 6 gallon fresh water so this is all very new to me and really I am making all this up as I go haha. I will design a new overflow that is taller to keep the same water height but also allow enough clearance.

What do you mean by R & R? Currently, there is about half inch of clearance from the front of the overflow to all three pipes. Should I increase that as well?

 

[jerpa]

You need enough space to remove the elbows. They will need cleaned from time to time. You can cut a bit off the end of the street elbow but you still need to leave enough for a good seal. More of a pain than it is worth IMO. Some extra space will make getting fish out easier as well.

 

[535freak]

Honestly, if you are planning a sump 8' horizontally away, it would be best to re-evaluate your plans...I really don't see much point in running remote sumps. Fish rooms are fun to plan, but in reality, unless you are doing research, they are a waste of time--unless directly behind or below the tank, and I don't much care for below either.

I have a peninsula style tank that is 8' long. The sump will be 6' and under the tank. So should I put the filter socks right under the overflow? But then the pump will be on the wrong side. Can I run a pipe from the return side of the sump the length of the tank and put the pump back underneath the overflow?

 

[Kyle918]

You need enough space to remove the elbows. They will need cleaned from time to time. You can cut a bit off the end of the street elbow but you still need to leave enough for a good seal. More of a pain than it is worth IMO. Some extra space will make getting fish out easier as well.

Good to know. I'm glad I haven't attached this piece yet. I wasn't aware that I would need to remove the elbows but hindsight is 20/20. I will make a new one this weekend that better allows for the circumstances you mentioned. This one cost me maybe 10 dollars in glass so no worries! :rolleye1: Thanks again!! I'll have to post pictures when I have it together.

 

[uncleof6]

I have a peninsula style tank that is 8' long. The sump will be 6' and under the tank. So should I put the filter socks right under the overflow? But then the pump will be on the wrong side. Can I run a pipe from the return side of the sump the length of the tank and put the pump back underneath the overflow?

What are the socks for? What is of concern in marine systems cannot be removed by mechanical filtration, i.e. socks. This makes the use of socks rather pointless, and nothing more than an maintenance issue.

Put your return section in the middle of the sump, so the flow goes:

drain section > return section < fuge section. However, this is the wrong thread for this discussion, this thread is about a particular drain system, not the plumbing in general. It gets messy, if we get off topic. Start a thread...

 

[535freak]

just trying to figure out sump placement for this drain system

 

[JayDeePee]

First reef tank is on it's way getting set up. Before I drill and buy plumbing I was hoping to be certain of a few things.

-I have a 120 gallon 60 x 18 x 24 Perfect DT.
-The sump is a 55 gallon 48 x 13 x 20 tank. Drain > Return < Refugium
-I am going to order a Eheim Compact + 5000 up to 1320 gph return. I plan to tee and use a gate valve to split the return with a slow flow into the refugium.
-The internal bulkhead mounted overflow I just ordered is 17.75" x 4" x 5" tall at 3500 gph.
-Reef Octopus Diablo XS 200 Protein Skimmer.
-I planned on using 3x 1" bulkheads and setting up a BA overflow.

I would just like to confirm that I can use all 1" fittings and pipes? I was unsure if I NEEDED to upsize and use 1.5" like the original diagram shows or if this was just because Bean had a higher flow rate than I.

...You don't want a hole within 2 diameters of the top edge of the glass...

On a side note, is the overflow I bought too shallow (5" tall)? I planned on mounting it as high as possible in the DT but now I don't know what I could do. I even think having the downward 90's is impossible now and my first thought is using low profile strainers instead, and only having the 90 on the emergency.

Just when I thought I had everything figured out to get the tank up and running. :hmm4:

 

[uncleof6]

First reef tank is on it's way getting set up. Before I drill and buy plumbing I was hoping to be certain of a few things.

-I have a 120 gallon 60 x 18 x 24 Perfect DT.
-The sump is a 55 gallon 48 x 13 x 20 tank. Drain > Return < Refugium
-I am going to order a Eheim Compact + 5000 up to 1320 gph return. I plan to tee and use a gate valve to split the return with a slow flow into the refugium.
-The internal bulkhead mounted overflow I just ordered is 17.75" x 4" x 5" tall at 3500 gph.
-Reef Octopus Diablo XS 200 Protein Skimmer.
-I planned on using 3x 1" bulkheads and setting up a BA overflow.

I would just like to confirm that I can use all 1" fittings and pipes? I was unsure if I NEEDED to upsize and use 1.5" like the original diagram shows or if this was just because Bean had a higher flow rate than I.



On a side note, is the overflow I bought too shallow (5" tall)? I planned on mounting it as high as possible in the DT but now I don't know what I could do. I even think having the downward 90's is impossible now and my first thought is using low profile strainers instead, and only having the 90 on the emergency.

Just when I thought I had everything figured out to get the tank up and running. :hmm4:

1" bulkheads will handle a 120 just fine. I would consider using 1.5" pipe on the 1" bulkheads however. Less friction loss, which will net you better flow rates. (BA system as designed.)

I would get an RLSS waveline pump, rather than an antiquated Eheim anything, (they really need to make some changes as does danner,) for better results.

Yes, I believe a 5" overflow is too short. Minimum dimensions are covered very well in this this thread. Make sure your holes have proper clearance, and measure your plumbing. It is pretty hard to make a mistake, unless you build without measurements.

 

[kory1006]

Couple questions.

Instead of using the john gusset fitting with the line going to the over flow, can you instead drill the 90 elbow in the overflow? Same concept like Reef Savvy did with their "ghost overflow".

As for thread sealer for the standpipe caps, would something like Megaloc Thread Sealant work. The non PTFE version 15808.

 

[BeanAnimal]

You can drill the elbow inside of the overflow, but depending on the water level and flow, it may or may not make slurping sounds and may or may not need extended with a tube to be slightly higher. The hole placed in that location will also need to be checked regularly for blockage. Note that if it does become blocked, the system will not fail but will begin to operate in fail-safe mode.

Any overflow system can be further tailored to suit a specific environment by optimizing certain aspects of the system for that specific environment. It is important to note (again) that the system I published was designed to be a "one-size-fits-all" set of plans targeted at a very specific set of goals aimed at allowing just about any system to utilize with the expected results and without modification of the plans. That is, the system is not optimized for any specific environment but meant to be suitable to all environments.

 

[uncleof6]

Couple questions.

Instead of using the john gusset fitting with the line going to the over flow, can you instead drill the 90 elbow in the overflow? Same concept like Reef Savvy did with their "ghost overflow".

As for thread sealer for the standpipe caps, would something like Megaloc Thread Sealant work. The non PTFE version 15808.

What do you mean "did with their overflow?" Don't you mean what they did with the drain system design they flat out stole from BEAN, and are passing off as their own idea? Don't get me started...

From what I see, there is a fitting in the top of the "open channel." Although a plain hole would work, I suspect you would have some issues getting it to work in some conditions.

The installation of a JG fitting is very simple, and inexpensive. I don't think there is anything to be gained by using a shortcut here. I would stick with the JG fitting (or equivalent—and chinese made knock offs from home depot are not equivalent,) and save yourself some potential headaches.

The megaloc thread sealant will probably be fine, just glancing at the constituents of it.

 

[JayDeePee]

1" bulkheads will handle a 120 just fine. I would consider using 1.5" pipe on the 1" bulkheads however. Less friction loss, which will net you better flow rates. (BA system as designed.)

I would get an RLSS waveline pump, rather than an antiquated Eheim anything, (they really need to make some changes as does danner,) for better results.

Yes, I believe a 5" overflow is too short. Minimum dimensions are covered very well in this this thread. Make sure your holes have proper clearance, and measure your plumbing. It is pretty hard to make a mistake, unless you build without measurements.

I took your advice and decided to stay with 1.5" after the bulkheads.

45mm holes will be drilled for the 1" bulkheads.

The tank rim is 1-7/8" deep, I believe this is deeper than normal.

The overflow box is only 5" deep, minus the 1/4" for the bottom acrylic.

When the overflow is pressed up against the rim inside the tank the teeth are 3/16" above the rim.

- Is it an issue having the overflow pressed up against the top rim even though it has teeth?

If I press the overflow against the inside rim ledge I have 3-3/8" in depth from the bottom of the rim to the bottom of the overflow.

I would like to use this overflow box because I can not find deeper pre manufactured overflow boxes with the dimensions I need. If I go with this layout there will be a 3/16" space from the bottom of the rim to the top of the lock nut. There will be almost 1" from the bottom of the teeth to the top of the street 90. There is a 1/4" gap between the bottom of the street 90 and the bottom of the overflow box. I would plan on cutting off from the bottom of the street 90 a 1/2" to allow a 3/4" gap.

I understand these are minimum requirements inside the box and not over sized. Besides that does this sound like it will work?

 

[itworks]

Hello fellow Reefers. I have been lurking in this thread for awhile, almost reading every page, and finally can report, that I have successfully implemented the Bean Animal system on a 28 gallon bow front with a 10 gallon sump, using 3/4" bulkheads and pipe all around :dance:

I have switched the pump on and off a few times, and it starts up every time, as designed.

Something strange I noted, was during my initial configuration, I decided on the following order, Siphon, Open, Emergency. Every time I restarted the system, the Open channel would take the full siphon instead, even with the airline fitting. So I installed a valve on the open channel, moved the airline fitting to the former siphon channel and now it works!!. Does that mean that the middle channel must always be the siphon channel? Since that is the actual original layout?

Every question that I would have asked, had an answer found in this thread, so thanks to all the members who replied.

 

[str8country]

Ok really excited here finially finished both if theses threads a lot of helpful info, I have one question you guys talked about not having a lot of horizontal runs I'm just finishing up my 90 gallon build and have just started to plumb everything in. When the sanitary tee comes off the back I have it dropping about 5 inches into a 45 then another 5 inch 45degree pipe then another 45 to make it angle straight down I did this to make the plumbing hug the back side of the tank would this cause a problem I can post some pics if that would help thanks ahead of time guys

 

[str8country]

Here's a pic

 

[BeanAnimal]

Something strange I noted, was during my initial configuration, I decided on the following order, Siphon, Open, Emergency. Every time I restarted the system, the Open channel would take the full siphon instead, even with the airline fitting. So I installed a valve on the open channel, moved the airline fitting to the former siphon channel and now it works!!. Does that mean that the middle channel must always be the siphon channel? Since that is the actual original layout?

Sometimes the box dimensions can affect the flow pattern through the box and interact with the standpipes. The order does not have to be set the way I built the system, but depending on the box dimensions, one could run into issues.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Ok really excited here finially finished both if theses threads a lot of helpful info, I have one question you guys talked about not having a lot of horizontal runs I'm just finishing up my 90 gallon build and have just started to plumb everything in. When the sanitary tee comes off the back I have it dropping about 5 inches into a 45 then another 5 inch 45degree pipe then another 45 to make it angle straight down I did this to make the plumbing hug the back side of the tank would this cause a problem I can post some pics if that would help thanks ahead of time guys

You should be fine

 

[535freak]

what size bulkheads would you use on a 540 gallon tank

 

[uncleof6]

what size bulkheads would you use on a 540 gallon tank

2" and not a hair smaller.

 

[SGT_York]

I'd go bigger 2.5+ on your open channel for that much flow.