str8country
New member
Thank you very much can't wait to get some water in this thing :celeb2:
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Good afternoon,
I finally got my tank up and running. It is currently filled with tap water just to make sure things run properly and to test for a leaks...
Anyway, my drain is pretty loud entering my skimming chamber. Right now the pipe outlet is about 3 inches beneath the water line. I have changed it from a pipe that only went about 1.5 inches beneath the water level but the noise continues. I have also adjusted the water flow into that section with no success.
If I completely shut off all the water flowing into the skimming section and instead run the fug section at full tilt, the noise is not as loud oddly. The drain itself though is dead silent which I am very happy with!
The tank is in my living room, so I would love to get it to a silent level. Right now, I cannot hear any of the pumps or powerheads running, just water noise.
I finally got my tank up and running. It is currently filled with tap water just to make sure things run properly and to test for a leaks...
Anyway, my drain is pretty loud entering my skimming chamber. Right now the pipe outlet is about 3 inches beneath the water line. I have changed it from a pipe that only went about 1.5 inches beneath the water level but the noise continues. I have also adjusted the water flow into that section with no success.
If I completely shut off all the water flowing into the skimming section and instead run the fug section at full tilt, the noise is not as loud oddly. The drain itself though is dead silent which I am very happy with!
The tank is in my living room, so I would love to get it to a silent level. Right now, I cannot hear any of the pumps or powerheads running, just water noise.
str8country
New member
just gotta say i finially got my tank filled up and the drain system used the emergency drain for about 5 minutes after that it sucked the overflow box down i reached back and turned the drain ball valve back a bit the overflow has been good ever since and DEAD SILENT ITS AMAZING thanks everyone for your help:spin3: now just gotta figure out how to get the cycle going :beer:
RicoJ
New member
You got pics?
acesq
Premium Member
SGT_YORK, a minor correction: you got the formula right and the relative sizes right but the math wrong. The radius of a one inch pipe is .5 inches, the radius of a 2" pipe is 1 inch. So the area of a one inch circle is 0.5*0.5*3.14159=0.7854 and the area of a two inch circle is 1*1*3.14159=3.14159 which is precisely 4 times the area. (This is because 1 squared is precisely 4 times greater than .5 squared.)
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
not as embarrassing as forgetting to convert miles to kilometers and bouncing a mars lander off of the atmosphere....
I am having a tank built, 96 x 24 x 24 peninsula style. The over flow will go on the 24" panel and I will be running 3 1.5" bulk heads. My question is, will a over flow box of 24x6x6 work or should I go with 24 x 7 x 7?
How low should I drill the holes from the top of the overflow box?
Should I do teeth or no teeth?
If someone could get back to me asap as the tank builder is asking for dimensions for the holes and overflow box. Thank you!
How low should I drill the holes from the top of the overflow box?
Should I do teeth or no teeth?
If someone could get back to me asap as the tank builder is asking for dimensions for the holes and overflow box. Thank you!
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Mike,
I don't have parts to measure with, but you need to be able to work inside the box to get the elbows on and off, retrieve snails, or whatever else gets in there. The box size will take some calculation on your part. If in doubt, bigger is better.
I would NOT use teeth
I don't have parts to measure with, but you need to be able to work inside the box to get the elbows on and off, retrieve snails, or whatever else gets in there. The box size will take some calculation on your part. If in doubt, bigger is better.
I would NOT use teeth
aleithol
New member
What is the recommended height of the top of the overflow box where water flows over from the DT area? I'll have a lip (euro brace style) on my tank, so want to avoid splashes/overflows but also not loose too much usable water area.
I am planning to use the BeanAnimal drain also with 3 1.5" bulkheads on my 54x30x24, and really appreciate this thread as well as it's original. I spent hours reading both from beginning to end, and may have missed this somewhere -- but I think I can come up with the rest of the suggested measurements and such from my notes... at least I hope so. It's a lot to digest trying to get it as right as possible the first time! THANK YOU to BeanAnimal and all that have contributed to this tread. Simply awesome.
I am planning to use the BeanAnimal drain also with 3 1.5" bulkheads on my 54x30x24, and really appreciate this thread as well as it's original. I spent hours reading both from beginning to end, and may have missed this somewhere -- but I think I can come up with the rest of the suggested measurements and such from my notes... at least I hope so. It's a lot to digest trying to get it as right as possible the first time! THANK YOU to BeanAnimal and all that have contributed to this tread. Simply awesome.
Most align the weir of the overflow with the trim on rimmed tanks so the water line remains hidden with the return off. This is typically 1-2" from the top of the tank. You can put it higher. Someone may have absentmindedly put theirs 1/4" below the top bracing leaving 3/8" between the running water level and the top of the tank. Not good for the nerves but it still works.
aleithol
New member
Thanks Jer. That's what I was looking for. Since I won't have a physical rim on my tank per se, I'll go with my weir being 1.5" from the top of the tank unless someone else chimes in. I already plan to build the hood after delivery of the tank, so will adjust it's height down over the edge of the tank once I do a leak test and see the running water height in person. Also figured that I could theoretically place the weir pretty high, but as you suggest, my nerves couldn't take it -- just didn't know where to specify it on this larger custom tank. I'm spending a lot of planning time trying to avoid water on the floor if I can prevent it.
Thx again.
uncleof6
Active member
Thanks Jer. That's what I was looking for. Since I won't have a physical rim on my tank per se, I'll go with my weir being 1.5" from the top of the tank unless someone else chimes in. I already plan to build the hood after delivery of the tank, so will adjust it's height down over the edge of the tank once I do a leak test and see the running water height in person. Also figured that I could theoretically place the weir pretty high, but as you suggest, my nerves couldn't take it -- just didn't know where to specify it on this larger custom tank. I'm spending a lot of planning time trying to avoid water on the floor if I can prevent it.
Not be a bother, but why on earth would you purchase a rimless tank, only to put a hood down over it, thus making it a rimmed tank? The whole concept of a rimless tank is too have nothing around the top edge of the tank, so putting a hood on it makes no sense at all...I have built many rimless tanks, but when I was approached with a design calling for a rimless tank with a hood, I told the client to go buy a rimmed tank.
aleithol
New member
Sorry, my terminology must be wrong trying to be relatively short and sweet in my original explanation. My DT will be glass or acrylic only -- no formed rim of another opaque material like you find in many lower volume pre-made glass tanks at a LFS that also help to hide the water line. I simply didn't know the right term it appears how to easily describe a tank that is "see thru" all the way to the top where the clear bracing forming a lip would be. My hood will sit on the vertical edge of the DT walls as many do. It won't be "rimless" without a top as you describe and many prefer today with it's more contemporary appearance. Not to take this thread off subject, but for my future reference, what would I call the type of DT I'm planning if it does not have a rim, but only something like euro bracing?
Appreciate all your helpful hints and tips here as well. Have learned a lot!
uncleof6
Active member
A eurobraced tank....
I need a litle bit help
I am building my new tank right now, and I dont understand few things
1) It will be coast to coast overflow, how far away from my tank edge should the overflow start ?
2) I will be using DC - 6000 as my return pump (I can tune it down to 60%), how big bulkheads do I need ? Is 1" enough ?
3) How wide and deep overflow box is recommended for this setup ?
And one more thing, how far from the top of glass should I drill the three holes for bulkheads ?
Would really appreciate if someone could help me out
I am building my new tank right now, and I dont understand few things
1) It will be coast to coast overflow, how far away from my tank edge should the overflow start ?
2) I will be using DC - 6000 as my return pump (I can tune it down to 60%), how big bulkheads do I need ? Is 1" enough ?
3) How wide and deep overflow box is recommended for this setup ?
And one more thing, how far from the top of glass should I drill the three holes for bulkheads ?
Would really appreciate if someone could help me out
When going with the minimal dimensions of the internal overflow box is there a point where you will run into more problems with vortexes? I know I can get away with my box being 5"tall x 3.25" deep atm. This will leave me with 1/2" below the opening in the 90 to the bottom of the box as you recommended for a 1 1/4" 90. As of right now the bottom of the 90 is untrimmed so i can safely remove the bottom 1/2" of the 1 1/4" 90 and reduce the height of the box more if it will not cause any unforeseen issues. I can cut down some fittings to shave more but thought I'd ask about the vortex issue before I even considered cutting down the fittings. I understand you need to be able to remove the elbows/bulkheads and work in the box.
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