Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Troy, it doesn't matter how tall the standpipes are, or where the bulkheads are in relation to the water level in the display tank (within reason) - all that really matters is the difference in height between the weir (i.e. the edge of the overflow), the opening at the top of the durso (the 90's you have pointing down in your drawing), and the water level in the sump. You could make the overflow box and the durso 4" tall or 40" tall and it would work the same.

In other words, it doesn't matter where the bulkhead is, or how tall the plumbing is inside the box. Reef keepers are so used to "tall" dursos simply because the majorty of us are using mass produced reef ready tanks with bulkheads in the bottoms. You could make the overflow box 4 or 5" tall (i.e. like in my drawing, the bottom would be 4 or 5" below the water level in the display tank) and just put T's directly on the bulkheads to make a durso, and it would work exactly the same as a durso in a full-height box with a foot or two if pipe between the bulkhead and the T.

 

[troylee]

i got it now thanks guys i know i can be a pain lol.......i just wasn't sure if i could put the sanitary "t" rite on the floor of the overflow box going directly into the bulkhead or not....someone sent me a pic of it....thanks for your time.....now i can get back to building my tank it was driving me nut's i have been on hold for almost a week and i have no patience when it comes to building stuff i normally knock it out in a day or two and call it good.....but i have done so much tinkering with my current display i want this one rite from the beginning so it's just plug and play and not a 500gal disaster.......

 

[troylee]

one more question should i just use 1.5" bulkheads since i have the option of doing this??????it would eliminate all the reducers and stuff......or does the 1" help in pulling the water out faster since it opens to 1.5" on the back side????

 

[uncleof6]

1.5" bulkhead would be the choice to make. The 1" will reduce the flow a bit. And while you are at it, use a 1.5" street ell also. Not the 1.25 x 1".

Jim

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

I think the consensus would be to use the largest bulkheads that will fit, within reason. It gives you more flexibility down the road, and is less likely to clog or cause other problems.

There's no magic, using a 1" bulkhead and 1.5" plumbing will flow less than a 1.5" bulkhead and 1.5" plumbing.

 

[jb61264]

Bean, if troylee uses the overflow on the back of the tank, as in his diagram above, won't his box need to be "wider" to accomodate the 90 degree elbows?...so they can be perpindicular to the back of the tank.

i guess it wouldn't matter if they were at an angle or even horizontal to the back of the tank, probably wouldn't look as "clean" though...if horizontal to each other, he would probably need to drill his holes in the overflow further apart?

in troylees external box design...is any extra support required under the box?

 

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15091063#post15091063 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DeathWish302

The siphon will not begin on the 'full' siphon pipe after a pump shutdown. I have attributed this to one of 2 hypothesis.


2) The exit is 7" below the water line and the resulting pressure could be too great to start the siphon. This possibility will be remedied tonite with the hacksaw.

That will fix it

 

[uncleof6]

No it does not need to be wider, you simply have the elbows parallel to the overflow, rather than perpendicular. If that makes sense. I am working on sketchups of this, but having trouble making sanitary tees, generally I stumble on the simple stuff.................. yes the holes would need to be further apart.

Jim

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15091256#post15091256 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by uncleof6
I am working on sketchups of this, but having trouble making sanitary tees

File menu -> 3D Warehouse -> Get Models, then search "PVC Plumbing"

There are a whole bunch of libraries out there with this sort of thing pre-made. Great for lazy people like me.

 

[eme]

For those pondering external overflows

For those pondering external overflows

These are some poor quality of pics for folks considering external overflows... mine is rimless. This was done following BeanAnimal's design. The only bit missing in the pic is another piece of black perspex to creat a narrow slit and hide the rest of the plumbing. All I have to do now is actually finish the rest of the tank setup.
BTW -- it works exceptionally well in all tests .. does what it says on the tin.

 

[uncleof6]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15091290#post15091290 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by der_wille_zur_macht
File menu -> 3D Warehouse -> Get Models, then search "PVC Plumbing"

There are a whole bunch of libraries out there with this sort of thing pre-made. Great for lazy people like me.

Been there done that, there is only one sanitary tee that I could find, and it was not a good model. I have been able to do a fairly reasonable sanitary tee, but the proportions are off a bit. I am a perfectionist. So I keep fiddling with it till it is right. I know there is an .dwg of a sanitary tee floating around, but have not found it yet.

thanks,

Jim

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

So not only am I lazy, but I have very low (sketchup) standards. :lol: I just grabbed the first plain old tee I found, didn't even think to try to make it "accurate" in terms of actually showing a sanitary tee on the drawing.

If you do get one drawn right, please share it!

 

[BeanAnimal]

One day when I get a chance.. I will dig out my plumbing primitives and post em in a zip.

 

[ah30k]

There's really no benefit to the tee being a sanitary tee is there?

 

[troylee]

i would think there is a big difference since the standard "t" has a sharp 90deg. turn and the sanitary tee has a nice round flow, it has to be better imo.......

 

[BeanAnimal]

In theory it well cut down on turbulance and that will in theory increase flow and reduce noise. Real word difference? I dunno.

Spend 10 minutes with a die grinder on stock cylinder heads and you can get 20 horsepower without even knowing what you are doing by just smothing things out.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Shameless plug for Page 27

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Thread of the Month
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=15091473

 

[bawla47]

awesome setup bean! plan to do this on my tank im building. sorry but i didnt want to read the entire thread, but can this work for 1" plumbin down from the bulkead or is it crucial to step up 1.5"?

id like a silent system, but only plan on running about 500gph through my sump.

maybe it might be better too since such low flow?

thanks in advance

 

[BeanAnimal]

If you can swing it the 1.5" plumbing on the open channel is a benefit... but for 500GPH you will likely be fine with 1" all around.

 

[bawla47]

sweet! thanks for the response bean, voted for your thread btw