Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

You cannot drain a tank horizontally, (does not matter where the vertical drops occur) as the drain lines will air lock (trap air) and the system will not function properly. Horizontal runs are on the short list of why drain systems do not work right. Drain lines need to be kept at a 'deep' angle or >=45° for proper function.

Pumping to one tank, and gravitiy feeding to another tank, that gravity feeds back to the source, is what I call a 'double gravity feed,' and it will never balance out right, and eventually, something will overflow. No two drain lines will ever drain identically, just the nature of the beast.

If you wish to run two tanks from one sump (regardless of the tasking of the tanks,) they need to be run as discreet systems. They can share a pump, (the pump will have to be very healthy/large,) certainly, however they should each have discreet drain systems back to the source, or pump. This ensures that water out will always equal water in via the intended routes, hence no floods. (water out will always equal water in, no matter what; sometimes that water out would be over the sides of a tank.)

As far as your concept is concerned, though this is a thread about a particular drain system, you are 'misapplying' the the use of a refugium. As they are used in the hobby, they are high production areas just like the DT, and should be treated as such. In other words, adding a 'refugium' or 'fuge' places additional burden on the system, and an adjunctive aid for nutrient export is still needed in addition to the 'refugium,' the burden upon which the addition of the 'fuge' increases.

A refugium is a 'safe haven' for critters that would be decimated by predation in the main tank. Such critters include seahorses, and various species of macro algae, and others. They should be placed on display, not hidden away in a fish room, in the hopes they will provide nutrient export, which they won't. The distinction is made as soon as you add sand, rock, and life other than algae.

Rather than building a 'nuclear power station' system, you would be better off with a bucket full of sand run on a loop off the sump. It would produce nothing but nitrogen gas, and the specific task being nitrate removal, without the expense and complexity of plumbing multiple tanks, the value of which is very questionable.

Fish rooms are a convenience in some cases, if you can drop straight down to them. Moving horizontally to them, is really more trouble than they are worth, unless the sump is on the oppsite side of the same wall as the DT, and at the same level it would be if under the tank.
 
My local HD has street elbows.

Are they reducing street ells? That is what the op requires.

I also used a horizontal run on my BAO.
It's only about 2.5 feet, but functions fine.

One of the goals in the this thread, and as intended by BeanAnimal, is consistancy of information. The more consistant the information, the easier it is for beginners to implement the system correctly for proper function, and for experienced users, to troubleshoot individual implementations without having hands on the actual system in question. Inconsistancy with information is the main reason that many other methods are so frought with mis-informaton, and mis-applied informaton.

"Functions fine" is very ambiguous. It does not indicate that the system is functioning properly, or as intended, rather only that you are satisfied with the results you acheived. Satisfied customers are a plus for anything. What the actual results are, however, we do not know.

We know, from experience, and trouble shooting hundreds of systems, that horizontal runs can and do make the system function improperly, or put simply "not work right," even though it is 'fine' in that it will drain water. This includes systems with 2.5' horizontal runs, as well as systems with 10' horizontal runs.

This drain system works properly in only one way: as designed. Beacuse there is some variability from system to system, there is no way to insure what 'functions fine' in system A, will 'function fine' in system B (or function at all.) Not all modifications to the design will cause it to 'not function properly,' however, 'horizontal runs' is near the top of the list of reasons this system does not function properly, or at all.

Therefore, the only reasonable advice that can be given is: do not have horizontal runs in your drain system (actually it applies to 'herbie' and durso systems as well.) Keep the drains angled down, with 45° being preferred. :)

For perspective, I have yet to run across a system that could not have the drains angled down @ 45°. Show me a system in which that is impossible, and I will show you a system in bad need of rethought/redesign. ;)
 
Uncleof6: Thank you very much for your response - I appreciate your time and expertise. About an hour after my post I figured out the search-thread function and found a similar post you made (I believe it's #6404), but by that time I was unable to edit my OP. I apologize for making you repeat yourself.

As a result of your insight, I came up with some (probably equally ridiculous) modifications to my setup.

To start, the DT will drain into a sump straight below it, so that BAO will function as intended. That sump (sump #1.1) will then be plumbed to a generous horizontal pipe that connects another sump (sump #1.2), on the same level, in my fish room. Essentially they will just be two tanks connected by a big tube. Sump #1.2 will pump up to the fuge, and that fuge will gravity feed back to the DT, with an overflow going back down to sump 1.2. I've given up on that being a BAO.

In my inexperienced head, that seems like it should work. My main concern at this point is the introduction of bubbles to the DT by the fuge-gravity feed, but I'm hoping a solution is possible (or that the problem won't be such a problem). I'm also figuring my plan might be flawed in some way I haven't foreseen =)

Regarding the concept, the fish room is also my office of sorts. I'm a biologist, and while the DT will be my baby, the fuge will give me options to play around with ugly, but more functional and creative, support systems. I'm looking forward to tinkering with it as much as the DT. If it ends up being a gorgeous macro garden that my wife says, "well that's better looking than the DT," well then we can redesign things =P
 
Designed properly, horizontal runs, while not optimal, do work. My system, a herbie design, has a vertical drop of 6 feet and a horizontal run of 20 feet. The drain and return pipes are 1.5" and the return pump is rated at 2500 gph. Probably pushes 1800 or so to the tank. It starts and stops perfectly every time. I do occasionally have to find tune the drain valve to keep the emergency drain dry, but I designed the overflow and the sump such that there is no chance of an overflow either in the tank or the remote sump. While my design might have been done differently, it would have been impossible to avoid the horizontal run with a remote sump, which was a requirement for a number of reasons. Necessity being the mother of invention and all. 😁
 
Are they reducing street ells? That is what the op requires.



One of the goals in the this thread, and as intended by BeanAnimal, is consistancy of information. The more consistant the information, the easier it is for beginners to implement the system correctly for proper function, and for experienced users, to troubleshoot individual implementations without having hands on the actual system in question. Inconsistancy with information is the main reason that many other methods are so frought with mis-informaton, and mis-applied informaton.

"Functions fine" is very ambiguous. It does not indicate that the system is functioning properly, or as intended, rather only that you are satisfied with the results you acheived. Satisfied customers are a plus for anything. What the actual results are, however, we do not know.

We know, from experience, and trouble shooting hundreds of systems, that horizontal runs can and do make the system function improperly, or put simply "not work right," even though it is 'fine' in that it will drain water. This includes systems with 2.5' horizontal runs, as well as systems with 10' horizontal runs.

This drain system works properly in only one way: as designed. Beacuse there is some variability from system to system, there is no way to insure what 'functions fine' in system A, will 'function fine' in system B (or function at all.) Not all modifications to the design will cause it to 'not function properly,' however, 'horizontal runs' is near the top of the list of reasons this system does not function properly, or at all.

Therefore, the only reasonable advice that can be given is: do not have horizontal runs in your drain system (actually it applies to 'herbie' and durso systems as well.) Keep the drains angled down, with 45° being preferred. :)

For perspective, I have yet to run across a system that could not have the drains angled down @ 45°. Show me a system in which that is impossible, and I will show you a system in bad need of rethought/redesign. ;)

I wasn't saying it was ideal. But it does work in my situation. It starts, restarts,and rarely needs adjustment. If I redid it, I would likely use 45's. So you are spot on there.

I am no way near as experienced as you. But just adding a different perspective. I read and follow your advice quite a bit. So my hat's off to you. It's really nice of you to help so many others.
 
Uncleof6: Thank you very much for your response - I appreciate your time and expertise. About an hour after my post I figured out the search-thread function and found a similar post you made (I believe it's #6404), but by that time I was unable to edit my OP. I apologize for making you repeat yourself.

As a result of your insight, I came up with some (probably equally ridiculous) modifications to my setup.

To start, the DT will drain into a sump straight below it, so that BAO will function as intended. That sump (sump #1.1) will then be plumbed to a generous horizontal pipe that connects another sump (sump #1.2), on the same level, in my fish room. Essentially they will just be two tanks connected by a big tube. Sump #1.2 will pump up to the fuge, and that fuge will gravity feed back to the DT, with an overflow going back down to sump 1.2. I've given up on that being a BAO.

In my inexperienced head, that seems like it should work. My main concern at this point is the introduction of bubbles to the DT by the fuge-gravity feed, but I'm hoping a solution is possible (or that the problem won't be such a problem). I'm also figuring my plan might be flawed in some way I haven't foreseen =)

Regarding the concept, the fish room is also my office of sorts. I'm a biologist, and while the DT will be my baby, the fuge will give me options to play around with ugly, but more functional and creative, support systems. I'm looking forward to tinkering with it as much as the DT. If it ends up being a gorgeous macro garden that my wife says, "well that's better looking than the DT," well then we can redesign things =P

As a degreed biologist, you have earned the right to have 'ridiculous' left out of any comments. ;)

'No difference,' though, is fair game. That is the case: no difference. With an added twist, that ANY friction loss in the connection between sumps will destroy the balance further, than the double gravity feed will create. There will be friction loss in the connector, regardless of size, it cannot be avoided. Well, if the connection is exactly the same size as both tanks....this is just not going to work the way you want it to.

Isolate both systems. Run a remote DSB looped to and from the sump under the tank, contained under the DT. It will do all that needs to be done for the DT (other than skimmer etc.) Add a DT to the system in your office. Play/experiment all you want with the system in your office.

The problem with complex plumbing configurations and WAF is one oopss and it all gets moved out... ;)

That is what I do here, (no WAF to be concerned with) and I have a downstairs room with nothing in it but a water heater, and cobwebs...I run ~ 750 gallons total, high flow rates and large pumps (RocketEngineer accused me of running 3.0hp pumps, he was wrong, they are only 2.9 horse.) A couple more tanks and I will have to charge admission...I have toyed with a myraid of concepts for joining them together. None of them was worth two cents.
 
So I think I've got you... the BAO on my DT will not work properly if the input to the DT isn't super stable, flow-rate-wise. Will my remote fish-room-thing work if I just give up on the DT being a BAO?
 
Designed properly, horizontal runs, while not optimal, do work. My system, a herbie design, has a vertical drop of 6 feet and a horizontal run of 20 feet. The drain and return pipes are 1.5" and the return pump is rated at 2500 gph. Probably pushes 1800 or so to the tank. It starts and stops perfectly every time. I do occasionally have to find tune the drain valve to keep the emergency drain dry, but I designed the overflow and the sump such that there is no chance of an overflow either in the tank or the remote sump. While my design might have been done differently, it would have been impossible to avoid the horizontal run with a remote sump, which was a requirement for a number of reasons. Necessity being the mother of invention and all. 😁

One of the goals in the this thread, and as intended by BeanAnimal, is consistancy of information. The more consistant the information, the easier it is for beginners to implement the system correctly for proper function, and for experienced users, to troubleshoot individual implementations without having hands on the actual system in question. Inconsistancy with information is the main reason that many other methods are so frought with mis-informaton, and mis-applied informaton.

"Functions fine" is very ambiguous. It does not indicate that the system is functioning properly, or as intended, rather only that you are satisfied with the results you acheived. Satisfied customers are a plus for anything. What the actual results are, however, we do not know.

We know, from experience, and trouble shooting hundreds of systems, that horizontal runs can and do make the system function improperly, or put simply "not work right," even though it is 'fine' in that it will drain water. This includes systems with 2.5' horizontal runs, as well as systems with 10' horizontal runs.

This drain system works properly in only one way: as designed. Beacuse there is some variability from system to system, there is no way to insure what 'functions fine' in system A, will 'function fine' in system B (or function at all.) Not all modifications to the design will cause it to 'not function properly,' however, 'horizontal runs' is near the top of the list of reasons this system does not function properly, or at all.

Therefore, the only reasonable advice that can be given is: do not have horizontal runs in your drain system (actually it applies to 'herbie' and durso systems as well.) Keep the drains angled down, with 45° being preferred. :)

For perspective, I have yet to run across a system that could not have the drains angled down @ 45°. Show me a system in which that is impossible, and I will show you a system in bad need of rethought/redesign. ;)
 
Uncleof6 - I am currently am using a 3/4" return on a mag 9. My drains are all 1". Do you think I should up my return to 1"?
 
So I think I've got you... the BAO on my DT will not work properly if the input to the DT isn't super stable, flow-rate-wise. Will my remote fish-room-thing work if I just give up on the DT being a BAO?

No, that is not what I am saying.

Siphon drain systems will not work properly, in most cases, with horizontal runs in them. This is due to air being trapped in the lines, or "air locking" which will prevent the main siphon from starting fully. To what degree the symptoms will affect the operation, is unpredictable. Too many drain issues have been 100% resolved by the removal of (short even) horizontal runs. As designed, bean's drain system is 100% reliable.

Durso (open channel) drains, depending on pipe size, will handle up to around 350 gph, before they become unstable. Horizontal runs in these drain systems create more turbulence, exacerbating all of the issues related to them.

As far as the system you want to build. I cannot sign off on it, not that it means anything. I am certain someone else will, and will encourage you to build it. Any way other than a common sump, with both tanks fed from the same pump, and both draining to that sump, with no intermediary stops along the way, and the function will be unpredictable. I don't design things that are unpredictable, and I do not encourage others to do so either. Works 100% of the time—the first time; frivolity and "mother of invention" a distant last place. :)
 
I completely understand that the rules of the BAO are designed to be plug and play, they will work every time, without fail, if followed completely and to the letter. My point simply is that if one chooses, due to design or other constraints, to have a remote sump in an area that requires a horizontal run, all is not lost. It can be done, safely and quietly. I had to have a remote sump. Actually I really, really wanted a remote sump and a sump room and all of the goodies the go with it. I HAD to have a quiet tank or I would have an unhappy wife. But I don't have a basement, or a second floor. So I very carefully designed a herbie that would allow me to have a remote sump one with the one single risk that my siphon might not start every time and I might hear some gurgling from the emergency drain until the siphon worked itself out. It is not perfect, (it is not even a BAO), but neither it is frivolous. My sump will not flood when the power goes out because the sump has enough room to handle what drains from the DT. If the main siphon and the emergency back up both clog, my DT will not flood because the DT has enough room to handle the water in the return compartment of the sump. The drain is dead silent. The WAF is very high. And best of all, I have a sump room to make my messes and noise!
 
Uncleof6 - I am currently am using a 3/4" return on a mag 9. My drains are all 1". Do you think I should up my return to 1"?

Off topic, however, the instructions from danner indicate that 1.5" outlet tubing is required for the mag 9.5 and larger pumps...
 
less flow, but marginal.

In terms of horizontal runs, it is possible with a herbie, but will not work with a true siphon Bean Animal, BA's have start up times which purge the air in the sytem before siphoning or lifting the water from the initial 90. A herbie which is a straight down drop doesn't wait to start up.
Which means a long horizontal run with a BA siphon will likely never let the siphon start up.

So stick to the program when using a Bean Animal.
 
I'm planning a basement sump/refugium.

Since it will require a horizontal run, I'm assuming a different overflow design is required, e.g. herbie. Is that correct?

Are there other types recommended for basement sumps with horizontal runs?

Thx.
 
Does that turbulence equate to more noise, less flow or both?

Thanks for the help
Mike

It may cause some noise, or it may not. It could cause a slight reduction in flow rate, as any way you slice it, the friction loss will go up. There are simply too many variables to say one way or the other. In terms of functionality, there is no difference between a sanitary tee, and a regular tee. For those that feel that 1" pipe is suitable (not as designed,) there is no choice other than to use a standard tee, as the smallest sanitary tee available is 1.25".
 
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