Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Hi! Yea not sure why it won't display :/ weird. Well uncleof6 thanks for noticing 
I am getting ready to drill 4 holes in my ADA aquarium so I can use all the advice I can get. I have carefully read the BeanAnamal website and a lot of this thread and the old thread but I am still looking for wiser/more experienced advice on my plan of attack.
Thanks again!
I am getting ready to drill 4 holes in my ADA aquarium so I can use all the advice I can get. I have carefully read the BeanAnamal website and a lot of this thread and the old thread but I am still looking for wiser/more experienced advice on my plan of attack.
Thanks again!
Well funny thing that post showed up right away so I guess I will re-post my question.
Hello everybody long time listener first time poster.
First off, Thank you BeanAnamal! Your detailed drawings and detailed notes are wonderful. I am very grateful to you and others for sharing ideas and helping novices like myself.
So my specific question is adapting the Bean Silent & Fail-Safe Aquarium Overflow System to a very small aquarium.
Specs:
Display Tank is 17-gal (ADA 60p)
Sump is 10-gal
Recirculation Pump 50-630 gph range (Tunze 1073.020)
I have 3/4-in and 1-in schedule-80 PVC bulkheads already that I can use. The 3/4-in looks to be about the right size for this application. I really like these bulkheads because they feel well made and will not leak. The inside flange is slip and the external flange NPT-threaded. I can't find a 3/4-Sanitary Tee but I can find a 3/4-in NPT-threaded schedule-80 Tee that I can connect to my threaded bulkhead using a threaded pipe. I wanted to use a Spears PVC gate valve also 3/4-in NPT-threaded that I can connect with 3/4-in NPT-threaded pipe. I like the idea of threaded parts that can be taken apart and repaired/cleaned instead of gluing everything. I included a picture to better illustrate this.
My questions are:
1. Will using NPT-threaded fittings instead of slip/glue fittings cause any issues? Turbulence over the threads in the open channel creating noise?
2. Given the smaller size of the aquarium will using 3/4-in fittings work for this smaller system? I read that larger is better on the open channel so should I expand to 1" threaded pipe at the Tee?
3. Any other advice or suggestions is gladly welcome.
Thank you!
Here is the idea:
Hello everybody long time listener first time poster.
First off, Thank you BeanAnamal! Your detailed drawings and detailed notes are wonderful. I am very grateful to you and others for sharing ideas and helping novices like myself.
So my specific question is adapting the Bean Silent & Fail-Safe Aquarium Overflow System to a very small aquarium.
Specs:
Display Tank is 17-gal (ADA 60p)
Sump is 10-gal
Recirculation Pump 50-630 gph range (Tunze 1073.020)
I have 3/4-in and 1-in schedule-80 PVC bulkheads already that I can use. The 3/4-in looks to be about the right size for this application. I really like these bulkheads because they feel well made and will not leak. The inside flange is slip and the external flange NPT-threaded. I can't find a 3/4-Sanitary Tee but I can find a 3/4-in NPT-threaded schedule-80 Tee that I can connect to my threaded bulkhead using a threaded pipe. I wanted to use a Spears PVC gate valve also 3/4-in NPT-threaded that I can connect with 3/4-in NPT-threaded pipe. I like the idea of threaded parts that can be taken apart and repaired/cleaned instead of gluing everything. I included a picture to better illustrate this.
My questions are:
1. Will using NPT-threaded fittings instead of slip/glue fittings cause any issues? Turbulence over the threads in the open channel creating noise?
2. Given the smaller size of the aquarium will using 3/4-in fittings work for this smaller system? I read that larger is better on the open channel so should I expand to 1" threaded pipe at the Tee?
3. Any other advice or suggestions is gladly welcome.
Thank you!
Here is the idea:
Well I will try this in a shorter post. Maybe it will show up...
I have 3x 3⁄4" Bulkhead Schedule 80 Slip x Thread (Slip on the Flange/Head side) and I want to use them for the BeanAnamal system. They seem very well made and won't leak. In the design Bean uses 1" bulkhead and then transitions to a 1.5" PVC sanitary-Tee using a reducing bushing. Should I use a 1.5" Spigot x 3/4" Female Thread bushing to do the same and connect the 1.5" PVC sanitary-Tee to my 3⁄4" Bulkhead? My display tank in only 17gal so a 1" bulkhead looks kinda large. Any suggestions? Should I keep all the fittings at 3/4" size? Or just buy 1" bulkheads and follow the plan on the website? My return pump is about 600gph at max. Thank you.
I have 3x 3⁄4" Bulkhead Schedule 80 Slip x Thread (Slip on the Flange/Head side) and I want to use them for the BeanAnamal system. They seem very well made and won't leak. In the design Bean uses 1" bulkhead and then transitions to a 1.5" PVC sanitary-Tee using a reducing bushing. Should I use a 1.5" Spigot x 3/4" Female Thread bushing to do the same and connect the 1.5" PVC sanitary-Tee to my 3⁄4" Bulkhead? My display tank in only 17gal so a 1" bulkhead looks kinda large. Any suggestions? Should I keep all the fittings at 3/4" size? Or just buy 1" bulkheads and follow the plan on the website? My return pump is about 600gph at max. Thank you.
Chrisjbarry
New member
Just stick with the 3/4 drain you will be fine for that amount of water flow. I am using 1.25" on a 108 gallon and using a jeabo 12000 return pump that is T off to feed bio pellets and a cal reactor. I think I'm getting about 1000 gph dropping into the sump.
uncleof6
Active member
Now they show up a couple days later, all three of them... anyway, to be honest you are making something "complicated" that does not need to be. With a total gallons of around 27 gallons, it is hardly worth putting this system in place. 270 gph (10x) is below the cutoff where a siphon system will make a difference. Rather than go to all this trouble, install a single 1.25" durso, and call it a day. I don't recommend 3/4" pipe for drains, or otherwise. It is too easy to plug up. Sure, with siphon systems there is backup, but that is hardly the point.
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BeanAnimal
Premium Member
ADA
I would agree with Jim...
While I love to see folks implement this standpipe system, your use case is overkill. One nice big Durso running wide open with the air intake fail-safe will be all you need for such a low flow.
Leaning the standpipe to the side a bit will allow the water to run down the 1" pipe wall instead of splashing down the center of the pipe and/or surging.
I would agree with Jim...
While I love to see folks implement this standpipe system, your use case is overkill. One nice big Durso running wide open with the air intake fail-safe will be all you need for such a low flow.
Leaning the standpipe to the side a bit will allow the water to run down the 1" pipe wall instead of splashing down the center of the pipe and/or surging.
BeanAnimal and Jim, Thanks for the reply to my little aquarium pluming question!
Mr. BeanAnimal thank you for taking the time and energy to document your system so clearly on your website. I have read it multiple times and I appreciate the insight a great deal!
I know I am new to this but my single concern is noise from the one big Durso. I like the idea of leaning the standpipe to allow the water to maintain a more laminar flow and reduce noise. But at 270/gph (4.5/ghm) I would hazard to guess that it won't be silent. What do you guys think?
What is brilliant about the BeanAnimal system is that 98% (?) of the flow remains in a submersed state allowing no air and as a result almost no noise. It seems that the siphon benefit may not apply at my low rate of flow, but even without operating as a siphon it should still remain silent due to the lack of air and that to me is golden. The second pipe is then only needed to absorb the variation produced by the system. I understand that this small trickle flows down the open channel and through adhesion coats the pipe walls and thereby produces very little noise. I would guess that the flow passing down the open channel in most systems is far less than 270/gph. I don't mean to question your advice and I know that I have no real first hand knowledge myself. I just remain concerned about noise and would gladly take complicated over loud any day. And since I haven't made any holes in the back wall of the display aquarium yet I am not committed to anything for sure, yet.
Here are a few pictures of where I am at right now for reference. What I love about this hobby is learning from others and innovating so I appreciate all your feedback. Thank you!
Mr. BeanAnimal thank you for taking the time and energy to document your system so clearly on your website. I have read it multiple times and I appreciate the insight a great deal!
I know I am new to this but my single concern is noise from the one big Durso. I like the idea of leaning the standpipe to allow the water to maintain a more laminar flow and reduce noise. But at 270/gph (4.5/ghm) I would hazard to guess that it won't be silent. What do you guys think?
What is brilliant about the BeanAnimal system is that 98% (?) of the flow remains in a submersed state allowing no air and as a result almost no noise. It seems that the siphon benefit may not apply at my low rate of flow, but even without operating as a siphon it should still remain silent due to the lack of air and that to me is golden. The second pipe is then only needed to absorb the variation produced by the system. I understand that this small trickle flows down the open channel and through adhesion coats the pipe walls and thereby produces very little noise. I would guess that the flow passing down the open channel in most systems is far less than 270/gph. I don't mean to question your advice and I know that I have no real first hand knowledge myself. I just remain concerned about noise and would gladly take complicated over loud any day. And since I haven't made any holes in the back wall of the display aquarium yet I am not committed to anything for sure, yet.
Here are a few pictures of where I am at right now for reference. What I love about this hobby is learning from others and innovating so I appreciate all your feedback. Thank you!
Hello,
I am finally dry plumbing my new tank. I have an external overflow box that will be plumbed with 1" all the way through. I have all the pieces cut but before I glue I just wanted to ask.
What is the recommended height difference between the siphon and open channel standpipe as well as the recommended height difference between the open channel and the Emergency? (Using the middle of the T before the 90 as a point of reference for height difference)
In BeanAnimal's original post, in picture they look really close together.
I am finally dry plumbing my new tank. I have an external overflow box that will be plumbed with 1" all the way through. I have all the pieces cut but before I glue I just wanted to ask.
What is the recommended height difference between the siphon and open channel standpipe as well as the recommended height difference between the open channel and the Emergency? (Using the middle of the T before the 90 as a point of reference for height difference)
In BeanAnimal's original post, in picture they look really close together.
SGT_York
New member
Want is subjective, it would assist starting the siphon earlier, but it is completely unnecessary to lower the siphon as it works perfectly as is, and the downside that it takes up additional real estate.
As you have an external overflow box, just have the holes on the bottom, forget the Tees, one hole is just a bulkhead with strainer (siphon) another a typical durso with John Guest fitting instead of a hole (open channel) and the third is just an open pipe.
Oh and I would HIGHLY recommend not using the overflow box (assuming this is another siphon type) and just going with the prescribed BA.
As you have an external overflow box, just have the holes on the bottom, forget the Tees, one hole is just a bulkhead with strainer (siphon) another a typical durso with John Guest fitting instead of a hole (open channel) and the third is just an open pipe.
Oh and I would HIGHLY recommend not using the overflow box (assuming this is another siphon type) and just going with the prescribed BA.
uncleof6
Active member
Nope, not for any reason. That is a quick fix for an issue that does not exist, unless there are other implementation problems. For perspective I have a couple hundred of these systems running (clients) and all the standpipes are at the same "height" relative to each other. Generally, the issue is a low flow rate with large bulkheads, but other things include: pipes too deep in the sump, the air vent line too low, snake pit plumbing. Most start issues are rather simple in nature, the low flow rate w/large bulkheads is a wild card. Ultimately it boils down to the siphon not being able to purge all the air, due to "insufficient" pressure head, so raising the open channel puts a little more oomph on the siphon. As designed, the system does not require this modification.
It is my recommendation that you implement the system as designed, without modifications, complete with tees and elbows. The holes on the bottom are an "allowable" modification to the system. Other modifications to the system will alter the way the system operates...
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uncleof6
Active member
Am I not explaining it right? The full siphon will keep running until the level is below the bottom of the elbow and breaks siphon. I remember thinking at first that the bulkheads needed to be staggered at different levels on the back wall. I have since realized that I can open the gate valve and pull 100% through the full siphon drain..... Although not what we should be doing. The emergency drain can also be drilled at the same level but with the elbow facing up. I thought the poster may not understand this operational concept or being able to visualize
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