Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

1" Bulkhead

1" Bulkhead

I don't even know if I am in the right place to ask this question. Is a 1" bulkhead mean the size of the PVC? and I've been reading a lot on how far down to drill the 3 holes but no mention of how far apart from each other.
 
I don't even know if I am in the right place to ask this question. Is a 1" bulkhead mean the size of the PVC? and I've been reading a lot on how far down to drill the 3 holes but no mention of how far apart from each other.

A 1" builkhead is most often fitted to 1" pvc. As best as I can tell the three pipes only need to be far enough apart that the other attached fittings (sanitary tee and elbow) don't overlap.

So consider the pipe width, and the distance the elbow will protrude plus a bit to allow you to work on the pipes without knocking into an adjacent assembly.
 
Bulkhead size refers to the PVC pipe size that will fit it. a 1" bulkhead will fit 1" PVC. For determining hole size to drill, refer to the bulkhead specs.

For spacing, refer to this diagram
 
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The top of my elbow is 10 3/8" from bottom of OB. The fingers are 1 3/8". The OB is 12" high and all fittings and standpipes are 1 1/2".

So, the distance between the bottom of the fingers and the top of the elbow is between 1/8" and 1/4".

Based on my hanging on a ladder and dropping a ruler into the OB.

Pop quiz (sincere and serious:)

1) What is the definition of the top of the weir?
2) How far down from the top of the weir are the tops of the elbows supposed to be?
 
Gentlemen (and Ladies)....

I am proud to say that I....Paul...am an idiot.

So, after talking to my father in law who got me on the right path regarding the pump output...it got me thinking. I remember reading somewhere in the previous 350 pages, that Uncleof6 mentioning that 3/4" tubing on the return will constrict it and you will lose quite a bit of output.

To give you an example, I used 3/4" garden hose (6') section to test my overflow. On the Home Depot Flotec return pump, I got crazy flow. The emergency kicked in and shortly thereafter the siphon kicked in.

Tonight, using that same garden hose, I tested it on the Sicce pump, and timed it. It took 12 minutes for the main siphon to take over, the emergency stayed dry. It took another 22 minutes for all the air to purge out of the pipe. Why? Because I had my gate valve literally 1.5 turns from full close. No wonder it took forever to purge the air. I had to dial it back to match the return flow.

I was on my way home, and I was thinking about calling BRS to reem them out, when it dawned on me that I have 1" piping that I'm going to be using. That's when I remembered what Uncle posted (contrary to popular opinion, I actually do read what you post Unc).

I attached the 1" PVC piping (ie: jerry-rigged it). Just loosely fit. The first time, it blew apart, and thus showed me why I was testing in the garage, not the house. Wetness and 30 degree temps. Not good or cool (no pun intended). Attached things tighter. Ran it. Emergency kicked in, had to open the valve up to I am estimating about half way. Siphon started. shut off the system and restarted it again. Emergency kicked in, main siphon took over after approximately 1 minute, and final air purge in like another 30 seconds or so.

I didn't have a leak. I did do this right. The problem was the return pump output tubing size.

yes, I'm an idiot. Yes, it's silent. took about 5 minutes to get it dialed in.

Did I say I'm an idiot?

I have asked for help about 100 times in this thread. I've received an answer about 30 of those times. I appreciate the help, and Uncle, next time you're in Delaware. Beer is on me. Thank you for your patience.

What size are your bulkheads?
 
Pop quiz (sincere and serious:)

1) What is the definition of the top of the weir?
2) How far down from the top of the weir are the tops of the elbows supposed to be?

The top of the weir is the edge where the water overflows into the box.

The distance between the top of the weir is depicted in a diagram I obtained here is 1 7/32".

I miss-measured the top of my elbow this evening as it doesn't make sense I had stated it to be 10 3/8" off the OB bottom. On second closer reading the height is 10" off the OB bottom.

If my calc is correct that would put the top of my elbow 5/8" below the top of the weir and so it would seem that it is too high by 19/32". Also of note is that the water line in the OB doesn't cover the elbow and is at the halfway line of the horizontal section of the elbow.

The Calc: OB Height is 12" - Top of Elbow 10" is 2" - 1 3/8" for Notch Height is 5/8" for distance from bottom of notch to top of elbow.
 
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I am taking my 75 gallon in to get it drilled soon, and I'm having trouble finding out exactly where to drill the holes. Specifically I'm not sure how far down from the rim to place my holes. I know they should all along the same plane, but where should the center of my holes lie in relation to the rim. I just want to be able to measure it out exactly for the glass company.
Also if anybody can give me some exact placement of my overflow that would be very helpful. Or do I just have it right up till it th e top hits the rim?
Also for the bean animal & the 1 inch bulkhead do I simply drill 1 inch holes, 1.25, or 1.5 inch?
 
Gentlemen (and Ladies)....

I am proud to say that I....Paul...am an idiot.

Always better to self-identify than have others point it out to you! :lol:

You are not an idiot. How do I know? Well you knew it wasn't right and kept asking questions and trying things. None of these traits point to idiocy!

We all get stuck, frustrated and confused. When we finally figure it out we can then declare an epiphany! :bounce3:
 
Ok, that can be scratched off the list of possible issues. (1.5" bulkheads + low flow rate = start up issues)


Yeah, it was how restricted the flow was from my Sicce pump using 3/4". I used 1" pvc and it started up as it should. That 1/4" made a huge difference in the flow. I had to open the gate about half, maybe a touch on the closed side. With the 3/4" tube, the gate was about 1.5 turns from fully closed.

The slow flow did start a siphon but it took a LONG time to purge the air. It would go silent and work as expected though. Just physics takes over and takes 45 minutes to purge the air from 1.5" tube with that little flow. If I used 1" pvc it probably would start as one expects.

It was all about the 1" return piping
 
Everything I talk about relates to just about everything else I talk about. I take a system wide view, rather than just looking at one particular sub system. Glad it is working for you now. As a result of your "idiocy" I am ammending my comments on flow rate vs bulkhead size to: Flow rate too low for the bulkhead size, rather than knocking on 1.5" bulkheads alone. Although true idiots do exist, they are relatively rare, and one that searches for answers is anything but an idiot. I, being a typical idiot, can and do overlook the obvious at times... my students catch me at it from time to time, and as a result they get an "F" for the day... ...just sayin.
 
The top of the weir is the edge where the water overflows into the box.

The distance between the top of the weir is depicted in a diagram I obtained here is 1 7/32".

The top of the weir is defined as the highest point over which water flows. E.G. on a "combed" or "toothed" weir, that is the low point between the "teeth."

I miss-measured the top of my elbow this evening as it doesn't make sense I had stated it to be 10 3/8" off the OB bottom. On second closer reading the height is 10" off the OB bottom.

The height of the OB is irrelevant. :)

If my calc is correct that would put the top of my elbow 5/8" below the top of the weir and so it would seem that it is too high by 19/32". Also of note is that the water line in the OB doesn't cover the elbow and is at the halfway line of the horizontal section of the elbow.

The elbows should be 1" below the low point between the teeth.

The Calc: OB Height is 12" - Top of Elbow 10" is 2" - 1 3/8" for Notch Height is 5/8" for distance from bottom of notch to top of elbow.

Sounds like 3/8" high. Significant? Depends on where the inlet of the dry emergency is, and the relationship to the point that water will spill out of the tank. Water line will end up between the elbow centerline and the top of the elbows, so I don't see a problem there.

Recommendation 1: A flat weir (get rid of the teeth and raise it.) Keep the top of the weir a good inch below the point where water could possibly flood out of the system. Function and system health come before keeping fish out of the overflow, and preventing them from taking a ride down to the sump. The improvement in water quality, will make that likelyhood less, as most fish jump for water quality reasons, (unless they are surface feeders by nature.) No matter how many times we say that, seems it just does not "sink in." ;) Teeth cause problems.

Also, make sure the dry emergency inlet is the difference of an upturned elbow, and a down turned elbow, inlet. So you get sufficient head height to purge the air out of the siphon. Make sure the inlet to the open channel air vent line is above the inlet to the dry emergency inlet sufficiently so that during startup, it is not occuluded by rising water level. If you can't get the water line high enough to flow in the dry emergency at startup, your flow rate is too low for the bulkhead size.

Recommendation 2: Live with the mirco bubbles, because it is the teeth that are causing them, IMO. That is barring too much flow in the open channel, or an air leak in the siphon.
 
I just drilled mine today. The placement was, from info posted in this thread, top of elbows (horizonta part) one inch below top of weir which I am placing even with the bottom of the trim. There's 1/4 inch between the flange and the rim. The holes need to be a minimum of 1.5 diameters apart (don't know if that means center to center or between edges) and from any edge. Since I'm doing a coast to coast overflow, I went somewhat wider with the spacing. Six and 3/8" center to center. But my holes are 2 3/8" in dia.

With the elbows I'm using that puts the down turned elbows about 4 1/2 inches deep into the box and the upturned 5/8 inch above the water line.
 
Would it be smart to first buy my overflow box then base my holes of of the box placement & size?
I'm building my own box so I'm doing it the other way around. I know where the top will be. I know where the elbows should be in relation to that (I think!). The box is sized to give the proper clearance on the bottom and the width will be just enough to be able to insert and remove the bulkheads with the glued-in elbows.

I'm sure you will get other opinions. This is just what I think I've learned from this thread. :)
 
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