Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

No, we don't need to be coming up with three different variant names to confuse the issue.

References to "as designed" or "per the original design" point to the standpipe/drain line design, not the box that contains them. That design refers to the siphon, open channel, and dry emergency, or as you put it "3 piece drain system." The operation of the system does not change, according to which type overflow box you happen to want to use. It works the same.

There is no need to modify the design according to which box it is going in, unless you are shoving it in a small box, and then it needs to be "herbieized." The current craze over the "ghost overflow" concept, which was originally marketed with a complete BA drain system, being an example of stepping the hobby backwards instead of forward. Back to the RR model of small inefficient toothed overflows, that the Calfo C2C made obsolete.

I was making reference to something Floyd said about calling it the "external box, bottom drain variance." He was kinda joking and I was playing along. I do agree that the drain system should work the same on all the difference types of overflows, with only slight differences depending on if the bulkheads exit the tank either horizontally or vertically. I think they did a poor job implementing the ghost. While the concept is a neat idea, the fact that they made it toothed and that they didn't make the internal box near the full length of the tank does hinder its performance in several different areas. But this thread is about the drain system, not overflows in general, so I guess we can leave that for another thread.
 
Hey Uncle,

For my system, how much of a drop do i want inside the overflow box?

If i understand you guys correctly, raising the OC will determine my running water height within the box? doing this i should be able to set the return to 60% as opposed to the 40% its at now. And yes it gets crazy loud as i get into 80%+ on my return!

I should mention that in the video the gate valve is closed quite a bit, not sure how much exactly
 
Hey Uncle,

For my system, how much of a drop do i want inside the overflow box?

If i understand you guys correctly, raising the OC will determine my running water height within the box? doing this i should be able to set the return to 60% as opposed to the 40% its at now. And yes it gets crazy loud as i get into 80%+ on my return!

I should mention that in the video the gate valve is closed quite a bit, not sure how much exactly

Chris,
Nice video! Just to check, in the sump shots, the OC is on the far left with the siphon in the middle, correct?

Could you point me to your sump build? I'm too lazy to look for it! :uhoh3:

Your sump design is going to be loud. There are at least three waterfalls. The sump also seems small for that flow. It comes really close to flooding at the 6 min and 6:27 points in the video. This is NOT GOOD! There's too much of a flow restriction in the back chamber. I fear once you put a skimmer in there it will flood.

There seems to be lots of flow in the OC. Try opening the siphon some till there is almost no flow in the OC.

With all the bubbles from the weir, you'll never get this system really quiet. There will be lots of salt creep too. Lower flow will help this. If you can raise the water level in the OF box there would be fewer bubbles. This would mean raising the three pipes a bit. Perhaps some smoothing work on the teeth would help and it should get a little better when cycled and there is a slime coat on all the surfaces.

Edit:
Oh I almost forgot! What's keeping the return from syphoning at draindown? Is there a check valve in there? CVs are famous for their failure rate, btw. They should be called flood valves on marine tanks.

Hope this helps.
 
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Again, the herbie has the "third, true emergency drain. What it does not have, is the Open channel for self adjustment. Running a siphon without a dry emergency backup is not safe. I don't understand how that is so hard to keep straight...

Herbie: Open top siphon, open top dry emergency. BA: Closed top siphon, closed top open channel, closed top dry emergency.

Full disclosure - I've never run a Herbie. From lots of the comments on RC and some tube vids, it seems like many are running the Herbie with a wet second drain. So this version is a BA-1. Yes, as designed, the Herbie has a dry emergency. It just seems, as implemented, this dry turns into a wet/damp! :eek1:

That's why I went with a BeanAnimal.
 
Getting a bit off topic for this thread, but the difference between a true Herbie and a Bean is the open channel 'durso' standpipe. A dry Herbie is notoriously difficult to keep tuned and many people end up running a 'wet Herbie' with a trickle down the 2nd standpipe, essentially a bean without the safety of the dry emergency.

The bean is an evolution & an improvement on this. Since a single event can cause a flood with a 'wet Herbie,' the dry emergency and occludable air tubing in the OC add 2 more means of backup protection to make it fails safe. (At least much more so, since you need 1 or 2 more events to cause a flood.)
 
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Getting a bit off topic for this thread, but the difference between a true Herbie and a Bean is the open channel 'durso' standpipe. A dry Herbie is notoriously difficult to keep tuned and many people end up running a 'wet Herbie' with a trickle down the 2nd standpipe, essentially a bean without the safety of the dry emergency.

The bean is an evolution & an improvement on this. Since a single event can cause a flood with a 'wet Herbie,' the dry emergency and occludable air tubing in the OC add 2 more means of backup protection to make it fails safe. (At least much more so, since you need 1 or 2 more events to cause a flood.)

Yes off topic, because discussion of the Herbie is off topic. However, discussion of the BA is on topic. However, every time the two are mentioned in the same sentence, the confusion is progressed to new levels. The two systems are unrelated, and the more you try to compare them, the more you add to the confusion.

03/25/2004: Herbie started his thread describing a "new plumbing method." After reading the quite lengthy post, you come away with the "method" consisting of an open top siphon standpipe, and "VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY FEATURE!!!!!" describing a dry emergency. "It should be empty at all times unless something is out of wack (sic) with the main return (sic) line!"

Fast forward to 2/3/2008: Bean publishes his design, that included specific design criteria.

1) Dead Silent
2) Set and Forget
3) Limit Bubbles in Sump
4) Failsafe to Prevent Floods
5) Easy to Clean if Needed

His solution included a siphon, an open channel, and a dry emergency. He was insistent that all three pipes must be used, to insure the safety of the system. The open channel provides the "set and forget."

Fast forward to some point in time later, one person decided they wanted the "Herbie" to be "set and forget," just like BA's system. Because this one person did not get the safety memo, or simply decided a flood could never happen to them, others decided to follow suit. Before too long, somehow it morphed into the "Herbie" is supposed to have a wet secondary, and the only difference between the "Herbie" and BA's system is the dry emergency. This notion still persists, as well as the misconception that a "herbie" with a wet secondary is a BA - 1, which it is not. It is nothing more than a Herbie with a wet secondary, and a violation of the basic safety guidelines. Some have tried to make the wet secondary with the herbie more like BA's open channel, but that is really just a waste of time if you stop and think about it, and it is still nothing more than a Herbie with a wet secondary.

What needs to happen, rather than the palliative comparisons, is to correct the misinformation, and keep the two systems as the seperate entities that they are.
 
I'm sure it's been asked but the volume of pages is daunting at this point. Apologies in advance.

I have this overflow system on my DIY 178 gal and it works flawlessly.

I'm designing a separate tank that will be outside of the stand and want to do a full siphon from it to the sump. An Eheim 1262 within the sump will serve as return to that aquarium.

Questions:

1. Do I need a significant vertical drop to get the siphon to kick in? Or, as long as I have no horizontal runs, will I be fine (horizontal run is ~3.5ft and total vertical drop is ~1ft as currently designed)?

2. That pump is rated at 900 gal/hr at zero head. If I dial the pump back a little (600-700 gph) with a gate valve, will 3/4" drains handle the flow?

Thanks in advance. This thread has been invaluable in my builds.

Adam
 
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Bean animal silent system

Bean animal silent system

Hi, I'm new to the forum and reefing for that matter. I have a 72 gallon bow front tank that I drilled, added a 3/4 inside weir and external overflow with the Bean Animal system set up in it. The problem I'm having is that it is not silent. The noise is coming from the ball value. It seems like air is going through the value and making noise. Has anyone had this problem?
I have tried adjusting the ball value and return pump but nothing seems to work. Thanks
 
Hi, I'm new to the forum and reefing for that matter. I have a 72 gallon bow front tank that I drilled, added a 3/4 inside weir and external overflow with the Bean Animal system set up in it. The problem I'm having is that it is not silent. The noise is coming from the ball value. It seems like air is going through the value and making noise. Has anyone had this problem?
I have tried adjusting the ball value and return pump but nothing seems to work. Thanks

Is the ball valve on the siphon drain? If so, look up a few posts - same thing happened to me. Turned out to be bubbles getting caught in the drain line.
 
quick question, when building an exterior bean animal setup, do you space the bulkhead holes 1 hole diameter (1.5" in this case) 1.5" apart, or bulkhead flange to flange edge apart?
 
I would put at least a few inches between the flanges. Depends on how you plan to do your pluming. Lets say you have the E in the middle, S and OC on the outside, and you turn both the OC and S so that the double-elbow (or p-trap) are facing towards the E. Well you need enough room to be able to extend the siphon down to close to the bottom of the box, so you need the BHs far enough apart to account for this pipe extension not interfering with the flange

If you turn both OC and S out, then you just need a minimum space between the BH flanges. Most advice is 2 hole diameters between holes (that means, from edge of hole to edge of hole) but look at any RR tank with a drain & return at the bottom right next to each other with 0.5" between the flanges, and those are "OK"...the more space, the better. Also means your ext box is a bit bigger, which is always better...

ninja'd by sleepydoc. I knew the "2" factor was in there somewhere. Thanks for the link doc
 
Spacing is 1 diameter between glass/hole edges, or 2 diameters center to center.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=23235315&postcount=7

I would put at least a few inches between the flanges. Depends on how you plan to do your pluming. Lets say you have the E in the middle, S and OC on the outside, and you turn both the OC and S so that the double-elbow (or p-trap) are facing towards the E. Well you need enough room to be able to extend the siphon down to close to the bottom of the box, so you need the BHs far enough apart to account for this pipe extension not interfering with the flange

If you turn both OC and S out, then you just need a minimum space between the BH flanges. Most advice is 2 hole diameters between holes (that means, from edge of hole to edge of hole) but look at any RR tank with a drain & return at the bottom right next to each other with 0.5" between the flanges, and those are "OK"...the more space, the better. Also means your ext box is a bit bigger, which is always better...

ninja'd by sleepydoc. I knew the "2" factor was in there somewhere. Thanks for the link doc

Considering it is hole diameter distance, this means I can make a smaller outer box which is great because I was already at 20"+

Can the draining line bulkhead's in the outer box all be 1" and simply use an adapter on the OC and Emergency to make bigger 1.5"? Having 1" bulkheads would mean only 1" spacing in between. I will probably play it safe and go 2" each though
 
I'm sure it's been asked but the volume of pages is daunting at this point. Apologies in advance.

I have this overflow system on my DIY 178 gal and it works flawlessly.

I'm designing a separate tank that will be outside of the stand and want to do a full siphon from it to the sump. An Eheim 1262 within the sump will serve as return to that aquarium.

Questions:

1. Do I need a significant vertical drop to get the siphon to kick in? Or, as long as I have no horizontal runs, will I be fine (horizontal run is ~3.5ft and total vertical drop is ~1ft as currently designed)?

2. That pump is rated at 900 gal/hr at zero head. If I dial the pump back a little (600-700 gph) with a gate valve, will 3/4" drains handle the flow?

Thanks in advance. This thread has been invaluable in my builds.

Adam

I can't definitively answer your question about the vertical drop, but a 3.5 ft horizontal run with only a 1 foot vertical drop would be concerning for me.

Regarding your bulkhead, it depends on the pump, but your flow will likely be significantly less than 900 gph by the time you add your plumbing. A ¾" bulkhead will likely handle it, depending on the plumbing you have.
 
A 1' (12"; head height) drop, through a 3/4" bulkhead will handle ~663gph max theoretical with no pipe. After friction losses in 3/4" pipe, it will be significantly lower. Friction losses for pump feeding 600gph through 3/4" pipe will be excessively high as well.

The horizontal run will most likely air lock the drain. (Trap air in the siphon.) There are very very few situations where the drain lines cannot be angled down. Sometimes it requires some plan changes.
 
Hey Uncle,

For my system, how much of a drop do i want inside the overflow box?

If i understand you guys correctly, raising the OC will determine my running water height within the box? doing this i should be able to set the return to 60% as opposed to the 40% its at now. And yes it gets crazy loud as i get into 80%+ on my return!

I should mention that in the video the gate valve is closed quite a bit, not sure how much exactly

The valve setting on the siphon determines the running water level in the overflow box. The problem with your system, is you are not getting any pressure head above the siphon, therefore the system is not starting up right.

Whether raising the open channel a 1/2" or so, will cure the problem or not is an unknown. Whether bushing the siphon down to 1" would solve the problem is an unknown. Those are the two cures for this issue, provided the rest of the system is "right."

I have tried pretty hard to find a video of a BA, as designed, firing up the proper way, with little luck so far. I have found a BA variant that does fire up properly. I think this system would fire up properly with the OC and Siphon at the same level, but I cannot be sure, I don't have my hands on the system. I do know that the OC would not need to be quite as high as it is.

This is what your system is not doing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWMzmiU3wDY

And that is what yours needs it to do. (Watch the head height over the siphon.)

You want the waterfall into the overflow to be ~1 - 1.5". It is not rocket science, so you don't need a micrometer. But in that area. So I would raise all three standpipes up in the overflow. Your overflow box is going to be a problem no matter water, due to the size and the teeth, at just about any flow rate above where it is now. The drain system as it is right now, will handle 3000gph+. The overflow at that flow rate will make you want to shoot it.

So what precisely should be done to fix your system depends on the flow rate. So let's start with the tank size, and multiply that by 10 to arrive at a target flow rate. (Very reasonable.) We can go from there.
 
A 1' (12"; head height) drop, through a 3/4" bulkhead will handle ~663gph max theoretical with no pipe. After friction losses in 3/4" pipe, it will be significantly lower. Friction losses for pump feeding 600gph through 3/4" pipe will be excessively high as well.

The horizontal run will most likely air lock the drain. (Trap air in the siphon.) There are very very few situations where the drain lines cannot be angled down. Sometimes it requires some plan changes.

You'll probably be better off upsizing both the return plumbing and the overflow plumbing. You'll still be limited somewhat by the bulkhead, but the friction losses from the pipe will drop considerably.
 
Thanks

Thanks

Thanks for the replies. I'll consider raising new aquarium a little and increasing pvc to 1". Sounds like the best solution.
 
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