Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

I guess threads no longer SPLIT at then end of the 999th post (40th page for those of use viewing 25 posts per page) ... hrmmm

Kinda nice :)
 
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Setting up a new tank and I am looking at using your design. For the new setup I would like to feed my skimmer directly from the overflow.

If I use the Beananimal design, can I split off the siphon to feed the skimmer? Will splitting the siphon some how ruin its effect?

Thank you,

Adam

It will likely be fine, but depending on the size of the return pump, that may be too much flow for the skimmer. Also the system stability of both the overflow and skimmer will depend on the type of skimmer and how it interacts with the siphon. In other words, you are in fairly uncharted waters :)
 
I am showing 67 pages in this iteration, think it is based on personal posts per page setting...

J

Yes, the posts per page or user configurable. However, in the past, threads split at 999 Posts :)
At the highest user setting of 25 posts per page, that is 40 pages... so page 41 was the new split. In any case, I reworded the post to be more clear.
 
Hi Bean,
I have read many a posts on this long thread and searched most of my answer so far.
I have one question that I'd like to ask and it applies to the baffles in the overflow I was wanting to leave them out, my box will be 16"Lx7"Hx 3"W I understand that I will have to cut my 90's down at these sizes but thats ok
Are the baffles a manditory aspect of the box?
 
I am not sure what baffles you are refering to :) There are no baffles in the box. Are you refering to the teeth on the intake elbows? They are not needed.
 
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I was wondering if something like this would work? I know it needs revisions. It is just a rough sketch of a thought. Im working with a 450 gallon w/120 gallon sump and hammerhead pump. My goal is to take out my ridiculously large overflows and replace them with pvc pipe to a c2c and glue up some live rock to cover the pipes so no fish get stuck. There are two 3.5 inch and two 2 inch pre-drilled holes on the bottom of the tank where my overflows are now.
 
It should work... the only difference is that your standpipes are visible inside of the tank. Not ideal, but if that is all you have to work with....

I take it you don't want to attempt drilling the back?
 
I'd just like to thank Bean, and those who have answered some of my questions from this thread. I have been running this overflow system for just over a month now and it does as it says. It is silent, safe, and secure. I have the tank beside my home entertainment area and I don't hear it at all. I also sleep and go to work not worried about coming home to a mess due to the over flow.

So thank you for this development and thanks for sharing it with the community.
 
It should work... the only difference is that your standpipes are visible inside of the tank. Not ideal, but if that is all you have to work with....

I take it you don't want to attempt drilling the back?

Ok, thanks. I don't want to drill the back because i plan on selling the tank in a year or so after i build a much bigger one.
 
glad you found some utility in the conversation and design

I luckily didn't have to end up straying to far from your original. I found a retailer that sold the proper bushings and piping according to your design. So I returned the odd sized stuff and stayed fairly true to your design. I didn't want to try and re-invent the the wheel if I didn't have too. The only real difference is the change of order for the inlets/outlets, and the angles of the stand pipes because my sump is in the room behind the tank. I also only have 1 ball valve that's on the full syphon, the others are just plain open runs (saved $ on valves :).

I'm pushing about 1300 GPH through the nearly identical system as the original. In fact the full syphon is turned down to almost 3/4 from being full open. Judging by this I'd imagine the original system could handle well over 2500gph silently and safely with no problems once its going. Simply wonderful.
 
I am not sure what baffles you are refering to :) There are no baffles in the box. Are you refering to the teeth on the intake elbows? They are not needed.

Hi Bean thanks for the quick response,
The baffles I was refering to are inside the box from the front to back, top to just from the bottom ( not the teeth).
I was thinking that they were for making the box more structual is this the case or is it more for flow reasons.
 
Hi Bean thanks for the quick response,
The baffles I was refering to are inside the box from the front to back, top to just from the bottom ( not the teeth).
I was thinking that they were for making the box more structual is this the case or is it more for flow reasons.

My design does not have any baffles inside the box. There are a few people who have utilized supports from front to back to help maintain the integrity of a very long overflow box. The need will depend on the length of the box and the material used to build it :)
 
I originally posted a new thread about this because the search was down yesterday. I wanted to repost in this thread and see what you guys thought?

I am getting ready to drill a new 125 gallon perfecto for a bean animal overflow.
I was wondering what is the best place to drill the holes--as far as how far down from the trim of the tank? I was thinking about making an overflow box out of black acrylic to hide the plumbing but I am worried about blocking the light and causing a shadow. I was maybe gonna try a black front with a clear bottom on the box to prevent this from happening.
I am leaning towards making the box about 24" long from one end so I will be able to reach behind it and get to the plumbing, as the tank will be up against a wall. I was thinking of a 24 x5 x5" box, with the top of the box about even with the black trim , so that the water level will be above the black trim of the tank.???

any ideas or advice is appreciated....thx
 
Im setting up this beananimal drain on an internal overflow. question is can I use just a standpipe with a strainer on top for the emergency drain? I may have an issue with fitting a tee with upturned elbow on the emergency drain. TIA

Photos would help... but in general yes, just a strainer on a standpipe will work.

OK so I'm setting up this system on my 90 gal tech tank. I have drilled a hole in the back of the tank so I could have a total of 3 drains and two returns.
I have posted some pics for a visual aid.
My Question now is, I have less room than anticipated, Can I use just a standpipe with a strainer for the full siphon? Or do I need to at least use two 90s to form the downward turn on the full siphon? I haven't checked but I think they will fit if definitely needed.
All the bulkheads are 1 inch and all plumbing below the bulkheads will be one inch going down into the basement.
I will be using 1 1/4 inch for the open channel to the bulkhead. The center emergency drain goes down about 12 inches and goes out the back of the tank. That is the one i drilled. there may look like there is plenty of room in there but I still need to put in two more lines in the overflow for my return. Just for some extra info.
In the pics the plumbing is just rough fit not to exact heights and the open channel has no airline yet. its just to get an idea. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

DSCN3036.jpg~original

DSCN3035.jpg~original
 
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I have less room than anticipated, Can I use just a standpipe with a strainer for the full siphon?
It may work, but it depends on how far below the surface you can keep it. If it sucks any air it will be unstable. How deep is the overflow box? It sounds like it is the height of the tank. If that is the case you should be able to get the full suphine pipe far enough below the surface to work just fine. I would opt for using no strainer on it in that case.

All the bulkheads are 1 inch and all plumbing below the bulkheads will be one inch going down into the basement.
I will be using 1 1/4 inch for the open channel to the bulkhead.
It would be best to continue the 1.25" to the basement for the open channel if you can. The larger the pipe the more flow it can handle silently.

The center emergency drain goes down about 12 inches and goes out the back of the tank. That is the one i drilled. Just for some extra info.
That should be just fine.
 
It may work, but it depends on how far below the surface you can keep it. If it sucks any air it will be unstable. How deep is the overflow box? It sounds like it is the height of the tank. If that is the case you should be able to get the full suphine pipe far enough below the surface to work just fine. I would opt for using no strainer on it in that case.

The overflow box it the height of the tank. The other holes in the tank are all coming out of the bottom of the tank. I checked and there is enough room to use 2 one inch 90s on the full siphon. Is there a benefit to doing this over the lowered open standpipe?

It would be best to continue the 1.25" to the basement for the open channel if you can. The larger the pipe the more flow it can handle silently.

Yes I can run it down to the sump. I drilled holes just big enough to fit the 1 1/4 inch pipes through. So I will run the bigger pipe just for the open channel. will I be ok still using the one inch bulkhead?

That should be just fine.
Thanks Bean! an answer in ten minutes. Who can ask for anything more.
 
Many of these done on a external overflow? I have a Herbie now, but will do yours on my next tank. Not sure about a Calfo overflow, or a external. Anything I should consider?
 
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