Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[BeanAnimal]

Bean,
I have a quick question off topic of this thread, but I haven't found another thread talking about it and I wanted to get you to chime in. So, I'm going to post it here. I read all of your articles on your website and I'm wanting to do my heaters in adapters(bulkheads) through the wall of my sump like you mentioned on your website. Now, I'm looking at Jehmco's website and the pic they are showing doesn't have the heater to it's minimum water line. Also, I have a ebo-jager 100W heater and 1" bulkhead that I'm playing with here at the house and I'm getting the same result. Is this not an issue?

Chris

Chris,

It depends on the heater and where its intrinsic thermostat is placed. Remember the RANCO is doing the controlling. The intrinsic thermostat is just the failsafe. You can still test its function by setting the RANCO to overshoot and watching for the heaters to cut themselves off. This is actually how you will SET the intrinsic thermostats in the first place. You can't rely on their dials.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Bean,
I have a 220 gallon tank that was setup peninsula style. It has two 2" bulkheads on the end of the tank and I am going to build an internal coast-to-coast overflow box on the end where the bulkheads are. It's a 220 so the box will be 24" wide. I don't want to drill another overflow in the end since the existing bulkheads are 2". I like your overflow so what I would like to do is just have one of the 90 in the box turned down and then have the second as the failsafe and turned up. Do you think that would work? Will I get enough flow if I use just the one bulkhead? This way I can keep all my overflow plumbing 2".

Thanks

It is a classic "herbie". It will work, but not the same as this design. It will not be as self adjusting. What type of flow are you talking about?

 

[BeanAnimal]

Bean,

I apologize for not getting back to the thread sooner.

What i am asking is, if all 4 holes were going to be drilled at the same height (ie. a straight horizontal line if looking from the front of the tank) , should they be closer to the top or closer to the bottom of the weir?

It does not matter. But I would put the siphon bulkhead a bit lower than the other two. It will help it start easily. You just want to make sure you have them deep enough to be covered by water. In your case, towards the bottom, just high enough to get your elbows on.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Return - I have planned for a 3/4" return line split into 2 behind the tank, and then entering the tank just below the Glass Calflo Box.

Scratch that idea, it was foolish. having the returns directly in the tank will cause yet another 2 overflows if power goes out. :eek2: Maybe I should get more sleep before posting things... Anyways, i will plumb up the back of the tank and over the top for returns.

Still curious about a recommended return pump though.
Calflo will be full length.

Just depends on what else you are using for in tank flow or for closed loops.

 

[ozzmosis]

Right. Yeah, I get that the controller, in my case, the Johnson Controls A419, is going to control the heaters. I was just concerned about the glass shattering since the whole glass tube is not fully submerged. Is that anything to worry about? I guess obviously not if you guys are doing this successfully. Again, sorry for bringing this up in this thread and thank you for taking the time to share all of this information with us via your website and these forums. You really opened my eyes up to how little we spend on these heaters and yet they are so vital to our systems.

 

[hndakd]

this has probably been covered ( i just cant find it after reading 90+ pages) I have this on my 240 gallon and it works great except after a power outtage. It will cycle for days trying to balance itself. I tried cleaning out everything but its a no go. I have a 1.5 siphon line and all others are 1" pump is about 1300 gph. I know the system can handle it its just the readjustment of everything after a power off. The drains are under an inch under water in the sump.

 

[NaClH2Opgh]

It is a classic "herbie". It will work, but not the same as this design. It will not be as self adjusting. What type of flow are you talking about?

Not sure. I was looking at the ATB Flowstar for a return and it does 1500 gph. I would also have it run a manifold to feed my carbon reactor and and calcium reactor.

 

[Volcano1]

Here's a couple photo's of the internal wier and external overflow box. They still need to be installed.

Internal wier.

External overflow

Please excuss the dirty glass on the tank in background.


Thanks to Uncleof6 and Bean for the designs and advise. :thumbsup:

 

[BeanAnimal]

this has probably been covered ( i just cant find it after reading 90+ pages) I have this on my 240 gallon and it works great except after a power outtage. It will cycle for days trying to balance itself. I tried cleaning out everything but its a no go. I have a 1.5 siphon line and all others are 1" pump is about 1300 gph. I know the system can handle it its just the readjustment of everything after a power off. The drains are under an inch under water in the sump.

The system should recover from a power outage in a few minutes. If it does not, them there is something else going on. Most likely an air leak in the siphon standpipe or the open channel is under partial siphon (1" pipe does not have a lot of room in it).

 

[iLLwiLL]

Is there any way I could use this design to feed a skimmer and a fuge straight from the overflow? I'm planning on a 180 DT and a 125 sump with a mag 18 return if that helps any. I would like to set up a coast to coast overflow in the 180. Is it as simple as getting a few 6' sections of glass cut to be siliconed to the rear top of the tank (with eggcrate "teeth" of course)? I really want the back to be blue . . . any idea on how i could get the overflow glass to match the planned blue backdrop?

sorry if these these have been answered already,

~Will.

 

[yoki32]

Hi Bean,

I am planning to fit two 1" or 1.5" bulkheads on the side wall of my skimmer section in my sump to connect with the Full Siphon & Open Channel Standpipe. The reason is that I have a 2" flange on the top of my sump which won't let me terminate these 2 pipes below the waterline. So I thought of myabe terminating them to two bulkheads and then connect a 45 slip street elbow to the bulheads. Would that work or I ABSOLUTELY need to terminate the pipe above the waterline?

Thanks fort letting me know.

 

[yoki32]

Anyone?

 

[BeanAnimal]

Is there any way I could use this design to feed a skimmer and a fuge straight from the overflow?

A few people have done it... I think uncleof6 and glassreef may have setup some systems using this method like that.

Is it as simple as getting a few 6' sections of glass cut to be siliconed to the rear top of the tank (with eggcrate "teeth" of course)?

Depending on the flow and livestock.. you may ore may not need the teeth. But yes, it is as easy as getting some glass cut and siliconing it in place.

I really want the back to be blue . . . any idea on how i could get the overflow glass to match the planned blue backdrop?

Are you sure you want blue? Blue backgrounds tend to make the tank colors look washed out. I imagine people think the blue background will give pop and the impression that the coral is in a real world "endless" ocean... but it just looks washed out and blah.... just my 2 cents

In any case, glass comes in slightly tinted called smoked or greylite. greylite 14 is almost black (14% light transmission) greylite 31 is a lighter. If you want colored, then you may want to put a thin piece of blue acrylic on the front weir. Stained glass suppliers sell colored glass, but it is expensive, esp in the thickness you need.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Hi Bean,

I am planning to fit two 1" or 1.5" bulkheads on the side wall of my skimmer section in my sump to connect with the Full Siphon & Open Channel Standpipe. The reason is that I have a 2" flange on the top of my sump which won't let me terminate these 2 pipes below the waterline. So I thought of myabe terminating them to two bulkheads and then connect a 45 slip street elbow to the bulheads. Would that work or I ABSOLUTELY need to terminate the pipe above the waterline?

Thanks fort letting me know.

Drill the bulkhead holes ABOVE the running water level in the sump and then elbow them on the inside as you mention. It shoudl work fine. My sump has a similar lip and I use SpaFlex and a few 45s to clear the edge. The plan WAS to build an EXTERNAL box onto my DIY sump to accept the vertical standpipes and filter socks... I never got around to it.

 

[yoki32]

Drill the bulkhead holes ABOVE the running water level in the sump and then elbow them on the inside as you mention. It shoudl work fine. My sump has a similar lip and I use SpaFlex and a few 45s to clear the edge. The plan WAS to build an EXTERNAL box onto my DIY sump to accept the vertical standpipes and filter socks... I never got around to it.

Great thank you!! :bounce3:

 

[iLLwiLL]

My current tank has a black background and the few tanks I have seen in person with a bright yet deep blue background I prefer over mine. Might be a grass is always greener kinda thing tho, I'll prob end up sticking with the black. If I was to feed a fuge with the overflow, should I use the secondary drain straight to it, or Tee off the main with a valve?

I'm about to order the bulkheads and fittings, but am having a hard time tracking down a 1" slix X 1.25" slip PVC elbow, would you know of a good supplier to order them from? Would 1" bulkheads be OK to use on a 180 (300 system) gallon tank, or should I bump them up a little? I think I read a while back you upped yours to 3000 gph drain, but I cant remember if that was with the 1" bulkheads.

Thanks for the answers and design!!

~Will.

 

[stannn_]

hi bean. great overflow method! great work! i will be making use of this method on my up and coming concrete tank build, its around 72"L x 36"W x 30"H... would you recommend using 1.5" pipes or 2" for the overflow pipes? the pump i will be using is rated at 1920 gph.

thanks!

-stan

 

[NaClH2Opgh]

My current tank has a black background and the few tanks I have seen in person with a bright yet deep blue background I prefer over mine. Might be a grass is always greener kinda thing tho, I'll prob end up sticking with the black. If I was to feed a fuge with the overflow, should I use the secondary drain straight to it, or Tee off the main with a valve?

I'm about to order the bulkheads and fittings, but am having a hard time tracking down a 1" slix X 1.25" slip PVC elbow, would you know of a good supplier to order them from? Would 1" bulkheads be OK to use on a 180 (300 system) gallon tank, or should I bump them up a little? I think I read a while back you upped yours to 3000 gph drain, but I cant remember if that was with the 1" bulkheads.

Thanks for the answers and design!!

~Will.

Here is a good place for parts:

http://www.savko.com/index.asp

 

[Doc_Polit]

Quick question for you Bean.....

In order to achieve silence, do all 3 overflow pipes need to terminate under water (in the sump)?

Thanks a million.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Quick question for you Bean.....

In order to achieve silence, do all 3 overflow pipes need to terminate under water (in the sump)?

Thanks a million.

You can end the emergency standpipe just above the water surface, as it does not regularly have flow. The open channel and siphon need to be just below the surface to prevent splashing noises. JUST BELOW... if they siphon is too deep, it will not easily start.