Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

With some reluctance, I have decided to post an updated render depicting the bare minimum option for those who only wish to use a single valve and/or elbows instead of Tee fittings. I have only posted this because of the number of questions I get on the subject (both here and via private email)




NOTES:
  • I want to make it clear that a HIGHLY advocate the use of a VALVE and a TEE on EACH standpipe. YES... YOU READ CORRECTLY... I DO NOT LIKE THE SETUP DEPICTED BELOW!!!!! It is only posted becuase people keep asking if it could be done.
  • Organic matter WILL grow in the standpipes and the TEE and cap allows easy access to clean it out
  • A valve on each standpipe allows the system to reconfigured if needed and/or allows standpipes to serve other purposes if ever needed.
  • Using an ELBOW for the OPEN CHANNEL will put the AIR INTAKE down INTO the water stream. This can (and will) cause gurgling at higher flows. The TEE prevents this by creating an air pocket above the water.
silent-overflow-single-valve-and-elbows.jpg
 
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Hi Bean,

As an interested newbie planning his first tank, I really appreciate you taking the time to explain this method, as well as answering everyones questions. I know you get thanked all the time, but people like you really make these forums worth while.

J
 
I have a question regarding the sump with this design.

I am planning on making my sump with a skimmer section, a return section in the center, and a refugium. (Very similar to most). So all my pipes will drain into the skimmer section.

Are the bubble trap baffles needed since there should be no bubbles from the drain lines? (Do I have to worry about the bubbles created by the skimmer?)
 
Trying to figure out where I might be drawing air in my silent/failsafe setup. Its been running great for the last few months, but in the last couple weeks I notice a small surge of air bubbles every 30 seconds or so in my primary siphon...its nothing that I see as serious but considering I had perfect flow for so long, I'm wondering where this could be coming from...I don't have any salt creep in any of my connections so I can't find anywhere where air could be leaking in. Its strange because its not a constant draw of air but almost like a burp every 30 seconds or so...lasts for 2 seconds and then is gone until the next one.

Could there be air creeping in on my ball valve even though there is no evidence of salt creep?
 
bean,

would 2" pipes be better for a bigger tank or will the 1.5" pipes do? this is for a 1900+ gph return pump.

thanks.
Not to answer for bean but 1.5" pipes will be more than sufficient for 1900 gph...I run a Mag 18 on my 75...at about 4' of head it is approximately 1400 gph. I run 1" pipe on my silent/failsafe overflow and it is more than ok to handle it
 
Not to answer for bean but 1.5" pipes will be more than sufficient for 1900 gph...I run a Mag 18 on my 75...at about 4' of head it is approximately 1400 gph. I run 1" pipe on my silent/failsafe overflow and it is more than ok to handle it

Agreed. If I'm not mistaken, until you get into the 3000+ GPH range, then 1.5" is more than enough. Remember, a line that is running on a full siphon will handle a lot more flow than an open channel standpipe of the same size.
 
Hi Bean,
I have finnished researching your thread ( I think every Q? has been asked lol) the search button is a great tool!
From what I have now come to belive is that the SFOS is not going to opperate with maximum performance/scilence with a basement positioned sumps because of the long drops and long lineal footages.
I was looking for these answers as I to have a basement sump which is a 5'drop 14' vertical run and another 4' drop away.
I read you suggested that the ball valves should be at the end points close to the sump but I never found a poster who posted their successes with this predicament.
would you have any advise for me before I comence.
Thanks in Advance
Madkeen reefer
 
The siphon tuning valve needs to be close to the end of the run. Keeping an "open channel" silent over that distance is another story... is the 40' through finished space or an unfinished basement?

basement is unfinished, so once its through the floor, and out of the living room its not a big deal....as long as I dont hear it through the floor that is :)

I was thinking of point a 1% or 2% slope to the pipes to help with the noise though.
 
Mr. Bean
Thanks for all your time and info, spent many an hour on RC and your site. I currently have two tanks I've built (26x18x16) with the weir overflow and your silent drain system. Now it's time to tackle the main display. I have a 180g 72"x24"x24" tank with a standard overflow in the center, 5"w x 4.5"d x 24" tall (inside the tank) with a 1" bulkhead at the bottom also has a ½" bulkhead currently capped that I don't plan on using unless you see a use. I have a Durso now that extends up to about 3" from the teeth of the overflow, I also drilled a 1-1/4" backup drain about even/below the teeth from the back of the tank.
My plan,
I want to substantially increase my flow (from 900gph) and incorporate the silent drain. Could I"¦..remove the Durso and replace with 1" up to about 5" from the teeth as the siphon, drill from the back, at or slightly above and offset another 1" as the second drain and use the existing 1-1/4" above as the third (I would still have room for another 1" again offset a little and above as the third). They would line up close to your design, just head in different directions ending at the same place.
Last
Before I get the drill and hole saw out and head for the 180 I have built a "œoverflow simulator", an exact replica of my 5"x 4.5"x 24" tall overflow with the 1" bulkhead at the bottom, inside a 8"x 6"x24" "œtank" staged above a sump/tub to test this before drilling any holes in my tank, I plan on pumping in about 2000gph to test. I have drilled the second drain in but not the third. I realize that most of the noise from this type of overflow will come from the water falling into the box, (that's why I raised the durso up to the top)
For your thoughts on this
Thanks
 
BeanAnimal:

I'm going to go with the Eheim 1262 for a return pump (tee'd off to the Fuge and possibly throttled back using a ball valve), and Koralia's (I have them sitting in the closet) in the DT for added flow if needed.

Also considering the Oceanmotion Squirt 2 way.

Next question is the use of an Elbows in the Siphon pipe. I wanted to use a 45, but my rear stand brace and the position of my sump/hang-on skimmer (Turboflotor Multi SL) restrict me a bit.

Will it cause an issue using just the 1 Elbow, or should I use elbows on all the pipes? I think the answer is to use elbows for all the pipes (cleaner looking), and I did see them used in a previous post on all plumbing.

As far as the Calfo, I will be going the entire length of the tank, 36" x 2 3/4" x ??
How far below the bottom of the intake (siphon) elbow do I need to be? I thought I had seen this answer somewhere, but cannot find it for the life of me.

Thanks for your replies, I'm looking forward to not hearing the drains :lol2:

/D
 
I have a question regarding the sump with this design.

I am planning on making my sump with a skimmer section, a return section in the center, and a refugium. (Very similar to most). So all my pipes will drain into the skimmer section.

Are the bubble trap baffles needed since there should be no bubbles from the drain lines? (Do I have to worry about the bubbles created by the skimmer?)

Does anyone who's already running this system feel that the bubble baffle in the sump is no longer needed with this setup?
 
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