Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
golf nut
Premium Member
Nice to see you here Paul
My pleasure Bean, I hope I can contribute.
Well my turn :bounce3::bounce2::bounce1: Hi Bean
I need advice or recommendations to fix a mistake.
The mistake was using a glassholes 1500.[not happy] So there are two holes already for a 1.5in bulkheads.
I'm using a mag 9.5 pump and bleeding a little off to the refuge. So maybe
550 to 650 gal back up into the tank.
My tank is 60x24x16
I'm thinking i don't want a coast t coast the size needed to use 1.5in bulkheads. It would end up like 5 wide X 7 high.
So what about maybe a weir 1 wide X 6 high X 30 long inside the tank. Then flows thru the holes [already there] to a external box.
My question is.....
I need to order bulkheads anyway. Can i use 1in for the siphon + durso and 1.5 for emergency. Or make all three 1.5in. ?
Any thing else to consider here that i don't see.? TIA
I need advice or recommendations to fix a mistake.
The mistake was using a glassholes 1500.[not happy] So there are two holes already for a 1.5in bulkheads.
I'm using a mag 9.5 pump and bleeding a little off to the refuge. So maybe
550 to 650 gal back up into the tank.
My tank is 60x24x16
I'm thinking i don't want a coast t coast the size needed to use 1.5in bulkheads. It would end up like 5 wide X 7 high.
So what about maybe a weir 1 wide X 6 high X 30 long inside the tank. Then flows thru the holes [already there] to a external box.
My question is.....
I need to order bulkheads anyway. Can i use 1in for the siphon + durso and 1.5 for emergency. Or make all three 1.5in. ?
Any thing else to consider here that i don't see.? TIA
uncleof6
Active member
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1736952
I will wait for BeanAnimal to address the bulkhead sizes.
I missed those threads. Thank You Sir
Those were my same thoughts. [Except your math skills way exceed mine] Silicone a internal and external box. And plumb thru the bottom.
PS My last tank [now my sump] I adapted a durso. And was impressed enough. So Bean's can only be better.
uncleof6
Active member
I missed those threads. Thank You Sir
Those were my same thoughts. [Except your math skills way exceed mine] Silicone a internal and external box. And plumb thru the bottom.
PS My last tank [now my sump] I adapted a durso. And was impressed enough. So Bean's can only be better.
I hate math, just ask BeanAnimal. Bean's system is better by far, and I consulted with him on this particular overflow design (the internal/external thing.)
Jim
golf nut
Premium Member
Short answer, no... Long answer maybe to yes, but thing can get complicated. The size of the combined section is very critical as, it will NOT be under a fill siphon but will have to be able to to carry the full flow of the return pump without being under siphon. If you think about it, you will understand why faster than I can type an explanation
That presents it own set of problems for silent operation of the open channel... I.E. it makes it very hard to create a silent open channel that does not drop nearly staight down. You may be looking at a staight herbie with two dry emergency standpipes and hope it does not have to be fiddled with a lot.
The answer is pretty complicated, but it depends on the drop, pipe length and flow. It would be best to have it at the end of the run in your situation.
Again, with your setup, it will be hard to tell. I would venture to say that you may have trouble with noise in the open channel. That much drop on a 1" siphon will help the flow, but the long horizontal will cause friction and turbulance. I use 1" thinwall for a lot of stuff, but don't think it is the right size for this project.
Im looking at a 6' drop below the floor, then about 40' of horizontal run(with one 90° turn) across the basement and then another 8' drop to the sump.
Again silence is my main objective, with simplicity and cost being secondary.
That being said, for optimal silence your basically saying suck it up and run 3 sperate lines(of 1.25" or 1.5") all the way to the sump and put the syphon tuning valve at the end of the run?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
The siphon tuning valve needs to be close to the end of the run. Keeping an "open channel" silent over that distance is another story... is the 40' through finished space or an unfinished basement?
robojet
New member
Oh My... I just found this thread... and I will start reading from the beginning, then come back with questions. I'll be trying to design the overflow for silence and flood avoidance for a new tank I am building. I plan on a Lee Mar 48"x24"x18"Tall. I thought I had decided on a 1500gph glass-holes overflow, but that may be in question depending on what I learn here. So... just a big thank you to BeanAnimal for starting this and continuing to support it. I'll be posting my questions soon...
Daimyo68
Active member
So I am having my tank (70 Gallon Oceanic) drilled this Thursday, and want to make sure I have this correct.
I've attached an image (please forgive the sad work, but it gets the idea across)
a few questions:
Return - I have planned for a 3/4" return line split into 2 behind the tank, and then entering the tank just below the Glass Calflo Box. (I am planning on a Eheim 1262 return pump that will also supply the fuge through a gate valve)
If not, what is recommended pipe size and pump?
I was also thinking about splitting the returns inside the tank using modular pipe. This (with the proper pump) would eliminate the need for any powerheads. On the downside, all circulation would depend on the return pump.
Looking for thoughts about the modular split in the tank.
Calflo Box - I was thinking about shortening the length of the box and having the returns come into the tank (through the glass as before) along side of the ends of the box. Will this create a "dead spot"? I'm thinking not due to the fact that water will be overflowing into the box at all edges.
Thanks all!
I've attached an image (please forgive the sad work, but it gets the idea across)
a few questions:
Return - I have planned for a 3/4" return line split into 2 behind the tank, and then entering the tank just below the Glass Calflo Box. (I am planning on a Eheim 1262 return pump that will also supply the fuge through a gate valve)
If not, what is recommended pipe size and pump?
I was also thinking about splitting the returns inside the tank using modular pipe. This (with the proper pump) would eliminate the need for any powerheads. On the downside, all circulation would depend on the return pump.
Looking for thoughts about the modular split in the tank.
Calflo Box - I was thinking about shortening the length of the box and having the returns come into the tank (through the glass as before) along side of the ends of the box. Will this create a "dead spot"? I'm thinking not due to the fact that water will be overflowing into the box at all edges.
Thanks all!
Henry Bowman
Reefing since '87
Ot
Ot
Uncle,
I can tell you how hard I've laughed at your "popcorning" threads. No words, not nothing, just eating popcorn.
The implied context and humor involved makes me chuckle thinking about it.
The thought is so appropriate in some of the places you have posted it.
Thanks.....
Now back to the regularly programed discussion...........
Ot
Didn't I popcorn that thread?
Or was it james that started that one?
J
Uncle,
I can tell you how hard I've laughed at your "popcorning" threads. No words, not nothing, just eating popcorn.
The implied context and humor involved makes me chuckle thinking about it.
The thought is so appropriate in some of the places you have posted it.
Thanks.....
Now back to the regularly programed discussion...........
Daimyo68
Active member
Also (since I can't seem to find my edit button)
Mechanical Filtration - Sponge filters in the sump? I was thinking about using sponges inbetween the bubble traps after both the fuge and skimmer.
70g Oceanic 36" wide and my sump is a 29g AGA 30.25". Space is becoming limited
Mechanical Filtration - Sponge filters in the sump? I was thinking about using sponges inbetween the bubble traps after both the fuge and skimmer.
70g Oceanic 36" wide and my sump is a 29g AGA 30.25". Space is becoming limited
Bean,
I have a quick question off topic of this thread, but I haven't found another thread talking about it and I wanted to get you to chime in. So, I'm going to post it here. I read all of your articles on your website and I'm wanting to do my heaters in adapters(bulkheads) through the wall of my sump like you mentioned on your website. Now, I'm looking at Jehmco's website and the pic they are showing doesn't have the heater to it's minimum water line. Also, I have a ebo-jager 100W heater and 1" bulkhead that I'm playing with here at the house and I'm getting the same result. Is this not an issue?
Chris
I have a quick question off topic of this thread, but I haven't found another thread talking about it and I wanted to get you to chime in. So, I'm going to post it here. I read all of your articles on your website and I'm wanting to do my heaters in adapters(bulkheads) through the wall of my sump like you mentioned on your website. Now, I'm looking at Jehmco's website and the pic they are showing doesn't have the heater to it's minimum water line. Also, I have a ebo-jager 100W heater and 1" bulkhead that I'm playing with here at the house and I'm getting the same result. Is this not an issue?
Chris
NaClH2Opgh
New member
Bean,
I have a 220 gallon tank that was setup peninsula style. It has two 2" bulkheads on the end of the tank and I am going to build an internal coast-to-coast overflow box on the end where the bulkheads are. It's a 220 so the box will be 24" wide. I don't want to drill another overflow in the end since the existing bulkheads are 2". I like your overflow so what I would like to do is just have one of the 90 in the box turned down and then have the second as the failsafe and turned up. Do you think that would work? Will I get enough flow if I use just the one bulkhead? This way I can keep all my overflow plumbing 2".
Thanks
I have a 220 gallon tank that was setup peninsula style. It has two 2" bulkheads on the end of the tank and I am going to build an internal coast-to-coast overflow box on the end where the bulkheads are. It's a 220 so the box will be 24" wide. I don't want to drill another overflow in the end since the existing bulkheads are 2". I like your overflow so what I would like to do is just have one of the 90 in the box turned down and then have the second as the failsafe and turned up. Do you think that would work? Will I get enough flow if I use just the one bulkhead? This way I can keep all my overflow plumbing 2".
Thanks
Bean,
I apologize for not getting back to the thread sooner.
What i am asking is, if all 4 holes were going to be drilled at the same height (ie. a straight horizontal line if looking from the front of the tank) , should they be closer to the top or closer to the bottom of the weir?
remembering i only have about 6 inches to work with, does it matter where in the vertial axis the holes get drilled?
basically, i just want to know how far up from the bottom of the overflow should i drill the holes i need, considering i will have a max of 6.25inches of water.
and yes, i want my return line coming in through the back of the overflow, then locline up over the weir.
I apologize for not getting back to the thread sooner.
What i am asking is, if all 4 holes were going to be drilled at the same height (ie. a straight horizontal line if looking from the front of the tank) , should they be closer to the top or closer to the bottom of the weir?
remembering i only have about 6 inches to work with, does it matter where in the vertial axis the holes get drilled?
basically, i just want to know how far up from the bottom of the overflow should i drill the holes i need, considering i will have a max of 6.25inches of water.
and yes, i want my return line coming in through the back of the overflow, then locline up over the weir.
Daimyo68
Active member
Return - I have planned for a 3/4" return line split into 2 behind the tank, and then entering the tank just below the Glass Calflo Box.
Scratch that idea, it was foolish. having the returns directly in the tank will cause yet another 2 overflows if power goes out. :eek2: Maybe I should get more sleep before posting things... Anyways, i will plumb up the back of the tank and over the top for returns.
Still curious about a recommended return pump though.
Calflo will be full length.
Scratch that idea, it was foolish. having the returns directly in the tank will cause yet another 2 overflows if power goes out. :eek2: Maybe I should get more sleep before posting things... Anyways, i will plumb up the back of the tank and over the top for returns.
Still curious about a recommended return pump though.
Calflo will be full length.
golf nut
Premium Member
curious as to why you would use anything sched 80 other than bulkheads?Yup... if using a #80 valve, going up in valve size and bushing back down to the nominal size has significant benefit
Paul
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
I think that is what some people have access to or think they should be using. I would not use sch80 valves/pipe/unions for anything, they are too costly and restrictive
Similar threads
