Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[pclausen]

Speaking of true union ball valves from Lowes, I went there yesterday looking for ones in 1" size (for return pump). None to be found. They have 1/2", 3/4", 1 1/2" and 2", but no 1". Not even a space for them on the shelf.

What's up w/ that?

Where can I get a pair of these for a reasonable price? I don't need sch 80 stuff.

Also, I have drilled my 7ft glass tank for this setup and it will have a 72" overflow. It will consist of a 72" x 4.5" and a 72" x 5" pane of glass with a pair of glass end-caps (roughly 4.5" x 5"). Do I need to add some support along the top of the vertical pane (I'm using 1/4" glass)? Thanks.

Here's a couple of shots of the drilling process and one of the bulkheads being test fitted:

Peter

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

pclausen,
That's funny because my lowes has 2 different brands of 1" ball valves.
Have you tried home depot?

 

[pclausen]

I checked Lowes online and I see that they got them the next town over. I'll head over there I suppose. Glad there is not some conspiracy against 1" true union ball valves at Lowes.

 

[robojet]

My custom tank should be just about done (hopefully next week), and I'm getting my plumbing materials list together... have a few questions:

1) for PVC pipe/tubing, I've seen Sch 40 and something thinner that is rated around 200 PSI. Do most people use the 40?
2) I've read that most use the Oatey Purple stuff... but it seems that's only a primer. Do I need a separate glue as well? Also, there's a variety of purple... lo voc, cleaner, etc.? Which one is the right one?
3) Is True Union and Double Union the same thing?

Thanks!!!!

 

[BeanAnimal]

1) Thinwall will be fine.... nothing in your system will ever come close to the pressure rating of ANY of the pvc or tubing products commonly available.

2) You need primer and cement, cleaner is optional. Primer is purple so that inspectors can confirm that it was used. Oatey is a good brand.

3) Depends on where you see the terms used, but they mostly mean the same thing.

 

[stealle]

My custom tank should be just about done (hopefully next week), and I'm getting my plumbing materials list together... have a few questions:

1) for PVC pipe/tubing, I've seen Sch 40 and something thinner that is rated around 200 PSI. Do most people use the 40?
2) I've read that most use the Oatey Purple stuff... but it seems that's only a primer. Do I need a separate glue as well? Also, there's a variety of purple... lo voc, cleaner, etc.? Which one is the right one?
3) Is True Union and Double Union the same thing?

Thanks!!!!

Yes, most people use the sch 40. Some people use sch 80, but that doesn't really make any sense because the inner diameter is smaller, and as Bean points out, we will never have anything under enough pressure to exceed the rating for any variety of PVC tubing.

For a cleaner job you can use clear primer. I couldn't find clear primer at Lowe's but I did find it at Menard's (kinda like a Lowe's in the midwest). But, yeah, you definitely need to use cement too. Coat each surface (male and female) with primer, then coat each surface with cement, push together and hold for about 30 seconds.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Clear primer is fairly hard to find, there is not much of a market for it

 

[uncleof6]

Who wants to waste time looking for clear primer? The actual truth is primer is unnecessary for our application. Apply glue to both pieces, insert twist 1/4 turn, and leave it alone. 32 years, no primer, no leaks. Waste of money, over a sales pitch making people believe you gotta use primer. (beacuse no one was buying it.) It is called this:

If your pipe is muddy grimy filthy, that is a different story, but you still really don't need primer, wipe the pipe clean, apply glue and put it together. The glue melts the pvc just fine.

Jim

 

[robojet]

I think I'll use the schd 40, the lighter one just seems a bit to flimsy for me to be comfortable.

I have used the blue stuff (red hot) for sprinklers around the house, and have never used primer... so it was kinda news to me anyways. So, I never realized that the purple stuff was primer... so what pvc cement are people using?

 

[uncleof6]

Some use the red hot with no problems, I would not touch it with a ten foot pole on your tank-- chuckles. Regular PVC cement, off the shelf from Home Depot is all that is required.

Schedule 40 huh? I been using SDR-21 (cls 200) pipe for ever also. The plumbing is SUPPOSED to be secured, so breaking a pipe is not a likely occurrence-- unless one is careless. SDR-21 is not that fragile, or flimsy.

Jim

 

[noobtothereef]

I am designing my setup, it will be a 120 gallon tank and will be running about 1200-1400 gph through the sump, i think im going to use 1.5" bean system, is this overkill? or should i use 1 1/4"?

 

[robojet]

Even with things secured, I'm an absolute klutz, so I try an make provisions for it! :bounce1:

Regular ol' PVC Cement it is then!

thanks!

Some use the red hot with no problems, I would not touch it with a ten foot pole on your tank-- chuckles. Regular PVC cement, off the shelf from Home Depot is all that is required.

Schedule 40 huh? I been using SDR-21 (cls 200) pipe for ever also. The plumbing is SUPPOSED to be secured, so breaking a pipe is not a likely occurrence-- unless one is careless. SDR-21 is not that fragile, or flimsy.

Jim

 

[uncleof6]

Even with things secured, I'm an absolute klutz, so I try an make provisions for it! :bounce1:

Regular ol' PVC Cement it is then!

thanks!

Well maybe you need to work on the servos then (robotics)

snickers.

welcome,

Jim

 

[slammin]

hey guys,

so i setup my bean drain over the last couple days. its going from the mainfloor to my basemen sump. it drops 4ft into a couple 45's to go throught the wall...i have an udersized pump at the moment (blueline 55, probably 700gph at the tank). the drains are 1.5" and even with the siphon fully closed the water doesnt make the emergency drain.

anyway, the issue im having is the water going trough the pipes sounds like Niagara falls...it';s LOUD. I have noticed that in the siphon pipe i have some bubbles (which is causing the noise in the pipe right?). the output is 1" under water in the sump.

does anyone else have issues with the noise of water going through the pipes? how do i stop this? make sure the siphon is air tight?

any suggestions would be appreciated

thanks

 

[teesquare]

Do you have pics? Are there any valves in place to control/tailor the flow?
T

 

[BeanAnimal]

Your setup is a bit different due to the long drop.

Your adjustment valve needs to be on the END of the siphon pipe, just above the sump, otherwise you will have problems with cavitation in the pipe (very noisy).

Once you get that cleared up, then we can determine if changeds need to be made to the open channel (the long drop may create noise depending on how the pipe is configured).

 

[slammin]

ok thanks bean, i'll try moving the valve closer to the sump. i could have sworn i read somewhere in this thread saying the valve should be closer to the overflow...

anyway, here are a couple pics of the setup now...sorry for bad quality..they cell pics..

 

[stealle]

Hey Bean, I got a question that is only semi-related to this thread, but don't know of any other way to ask you a question.

I plan to use your overflow design. My tank will be 200 gallon (50"L X 36"W X 26"H). My sump will be 95 gallon (46"L X 28"W X 17"H) probably 60 gallon actual volume. For the return pump I plan on using 1.5" tubing split into two returns.

Question what would you recommend for return/flow through the sump in GPH?

 

[BeanAnimal]

That all depends on what your goals are and how else you are getting in-tank flow. Even at a modest 600 GPH, you will have decent flow through the sump. Low flow through a large sump can create a lot of stagnant areas. I prefer higher flow refugia and sumps... but there are many ways to setup a system.

 

[stealle]

Yes, that is actually why I am asking you... because I read further back in the thread that you prefer high flow sumps (not to mention, you are far more knowledgeable on this subject than I am). I like the idea of high flow sumps to prevent stagnant areas. I guess I should provide a little more info.

In my display I plan to use two MP40s, one on each side. For the return lines I plan to have them exit into the display via two 1" sea swirls (they are rated for about 1100 gph each). Here is my sump design. (Please try not to laugh at my poor sketchup skills... also it is not quite at proper scale).

The refugium section (all the way to the left) has a small bulkhead so I can run lower flow through it. So most of the flow will be in the skimmer section and the middle return section. I posted this design in a different thread awhile back and didn't get very many comments. The few comments I did get suggested to turn this into the same design as any other sump by making the bubble trap the full width of thee sump. What I am trying to do with this design is use the LARGE width I have to work with. It's 28" wide. So I have flow going from front to back, then back to front before the internal return pump. The bubble trap is still 14" wide as is. This is just a concept. I haven't built anything yet.