Thumbs up for Ozone!

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Well! I soaked the probe in a cup of vinegar for 10 minutes.

Initially it read the vinegar at 887 and after the 10 mins it went down to 665. I swirled the probe a little till it went down to 630 and then I rinsed it in and placed it back into the refuge tank.

Reading went down to 335 and the controller kicked the generator back on.

I'm new to ozone, Is this normal?

I guess after this I will be cleaning my probe on a weekly basis.
 
vmichael, that is the same thing I hear from a lot of people about their probes. It seems that if they don't clean them weekly the ORP readings just keep going up. I would love to get to the bottom of it and find out why this is. I consider myself lucky that I don't need to clean my probe because it sounds like I may be one of the only ones. What probe are you using? What meter/controller? How old is it?
 
Travis said:
vmichael, that is the same thing I hear from a lot of people about their probes. It seems that if they don't clean them weekly the ORP readings just keep going up. I would love to get to the bottom of it and find out why this is. I consider myself lucky that I don't need to clean my probe because it sounds like I may be one of the only ones. What probe are you using? What meter/controller? How old is it?

Travis-
I have SMART Milwakee SMS 501 controller, whatever probe came with the unit is what I have (Its yellow and plugs into the controller). Purchased in February of this year. (less then 2 month ago) I don't think I should need an new probe every month!

I do run a calcium reactor on my system and I have tons of coraline growing all over the place. So it stands to reason that since the probe is in the water too it could have calcium deposits accumulating on it.
 
nunez1980 said:
the same thing happends too me :)

about cleaning it, I seem best to dillute the vinegar some, and use q-tips, not a tooth brush,

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/s...492733&highlight=ozone+and+cleaning+and+probe

sam

Thanks for posting that link. I've heard what Randy and Boomer have to say about ozone in the past but it is good to hear it again. If anything, it helps to remind us how dangerous ozone is and that we should use it with caution.

If I were to use it, I would not target a particular ORP, but I would set the unit to shut off if the ORP rose above some preset level.

This is my favorite quote from that thread. It seems so many people have their ozone systems set to maintain a set ORP value when all we want to do is add just enough ozone to get the job done. This may mean (and it does in my case) running a much lower ORP level than others think should be run.

I'm glad you are using a controller, the only way to go. Set it for 350 mV cut-off. You don't need to go higher.

And this is my second favorite quote.:D
 
vmichael said:
Travis-
I have SMART Milwakee SMS 501 controller, whatever probe came with the unit is what I have (Its yellow and plugs into the controller). Purchased in February of this year. (less then 2 month ago) I don't think I should need an new probe every month!

I do run a calcium reactor on my system and I have tons of coraline growing all over the place. So it stands to reason that since the probe is in the water too it could have calcium deposits accumulating on it.

I agree, your probe is still plenty new and doesn't need to be replaced. I'm guessing that the problems people are having with their probes are due to precipitation of calcium carbonate on the probe sensor. I don't get any precipitation on my probe sensor so that may be why mine continues to give accurate readings without needing to be cleaned.

BTW, what are your Ca and Alk levels? FWIW, a while back I used to run my tank around 12 dKH and 450 Ca. Over the past year or so I have aimed for params closer to NSW levels and now keep my tank at ~8dKH and ~380 Ca. I used to get calcium carbonate precipitation all over the place like on sump walls, sandbeds, probe sensors, etc. and MAJOR precipitation on heaters and pump impellers. I would have to soak my pump impellers in vinegar every 6 months or the pumps would clog. Now the only place I get any precipitation is just a little on heaters and pump impellers. The amount of precipitation is only a fraction of what used to accumulate. Maybe that explains why I don't need to clean my ORP probe.
 
Maybe (hopefully) I have misunderstood something here... Does Ozone raise Nitrates or help lower them?

One more quick Q.

If I have a red sea unit hooked to my skimmer's air intake and the controller shuts the unit off, Will that reduce the amount of air that can be drawn into the venturi?

Thanks guys, This was a good read. :)
 
Treg said:
Maybe (hopefully) I have misunderstood something here... Does Ozone raise Nitrates or help lower them?

One more quick Q.

If I have a red sea unit hooked to my skimmer's air intake and the controller shuts the unit off, Will that reduce the amount of air that can be drawn into the venturi?

Thanks guys, This was a good read. :)

I'm not an expert but if Ozone kills bacteria and burns up dissolved solids, Then I would think you would have less leftover
to turn into nitrates.

With regard to the other part of the question: it depends on how you have it setup. in my case if the controller shuts off the ozone it does just that; the controller does not control my pump just the ozone generator so water is still being pumped and the venturi is still drawing air; albeit without the ozone.
 
vmichael said:
I'm not an expert but if Ozone kills bacteria and burns up dissolved solids, Then I would think you would have less leftover
to turn into nitrates.

Yeah thats what I thought too but I read something in here that led me to believe the ozone raises nitrates... I was hoping I misunderstood.

So I don't need to split or T the line between the unit and the pump for air? I just want to make sure that if only one line was between the unit and the pump that when the unit was shut off it would not starve the pump for the air it needs.

Thanks.
 
so...i thought the skimmer pulled the air from the ozone unit?...did i understand correct that i need an air pump also for the setup?, im setting up a red sea unit.
thankyou
 
Just installed my Milwaukee smart orp controller. The initial measurement is 251 after about 5 hours. I should be recieving my enaly ozone generator from china next week and will be hooking it up to my skimmer or a baffled section of my sump with carbon. I will post my results after it settles in.
 
guys....after installing my red sea unit.....my skimmer basicly stopped making any sort of dry foam, the column is still full of bubbles, but nothing is making its way to the collection cup.....does this usually happen?
thanks-
 
Treg said:
Maybe (hopefully) I have misunderstood something here... Does Ozone raise Nitrates or help lower them?


Treg,
I don't remember where I read it but it was from a reputable source. They said that systems that run a lot of ozone have no nitrates. (Of course we all know there will still be a trace amount of nitrates in any system no matter what the filtration is). And bad thing have happened to tanks that are highly dependent on ozone when the generator or controller fails and turns off the ozone for an extended period of time due to nitrate shock!

Not sure how true the statement is but I think it would verify that ozone reduces nitrate.;)
 
guys....after installing my red sea unit.....my skimmer basicly stopped making any sort of dry foam, the column is still full of bubbles, but nothing is making its way to the collection cup.....does this usually happen?

my euroreef did the same thing when i added my red sea unit. I added a T and al is fine now. It was not getting enough air.
 
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I keep hearing people asking for advice on how to hook up their ozone generators to their skimmers so I have included a short tutorial from my website. While my ozone is being injected into a dual beckett skimmer I think this type of setup should work for any type of skimmer. You just need to make an air intake line that is larger than your skimmer's air intake line and make sure the ozone is injected before any needle valves or any other devices that are used to control air flow into the skimmer. I've also included the rest of my skimmer setup in case it might give some other people ideas. I figured it would be OK for this thread as it is ozone related.

I've made a few changes recently to the way my skimmer is set up. This was mostly due to various reasons related to dosing ozone into the skimmer. I wanted to be able to dose ozone as efficiently as possible (e.g. into both injectors) and I also wanted to address the issue of having to recharge the dryer beads on a daily basis. First, I will address the the former issue. Here is a pic of what I did:

<img src=http://sio.midco.net/cdshelton/website/page14/skimmer/126_2638.JPG>

The ozone is injected through the neoprene tubing into the 1/2" pvc air intake line. The line then splits into 2 lines, which then feed each individual injector. Notice the use of unions for easy removal of the needle valves for cleaning.

The next issue is that I was having to recharge my dryer beads on a daily basis due to air going through them 24 hours a day. The air in the fish room is fairly humid due to ~600 gallons of water being in there. Here is how the unit is now set up:

<img src=http://sio.midco.net/cdshelton/website/page14/skimmer/126_2654.JPG>

The air pump pumps fresh air through a solenoid, then into the air dryer, then into the ozone generator, and finally into the skimmer's air intake line. With the use of the solenoid I can shut off the air going through the dryer beads with a x-10 module when I'm not running the generator. I only run the generator for 4 hours each day so it was a waste to have air going through the dryer beads 24 hours a day. I can now go 6 days before needing to recharge the beads instead of 1 day.

The last thing I have changed is that I added a skimmer air exhaust line that exhausts the skimmers output air outside. I did this for 2 reasons. The first was due to the use of ozone. Even when I would run carbon on the air outlet of the collection bucket I still got an ozone smell in the air when I would feed the fish. This was due to the fact that my skimmer turns off during feeding, then when it turns back on, all of the air in the skimmer is quickly displaced with water forcing a very large amount of air to go through the collection bucket in a short period of time. This would be more than the carbon could handle and I would get a strong ozone (and skimmate) smell in the air. Now that air is directly exhausted outdoors where I don't smell it or have to worry about the danger of the ozone levels in the air. The second reason was to help lower the humidity in the fish room. My dual beckett skimmer processes a lot of air. With that air being exhausted into the fish room it was only adding to the existing humid air in there. Now with the air being exhausted outside it most likely helps with the humidity levels in the fish room (I say "most likely" as I don't have any devices to measure the effects before and after). A puddle actually develops outside under the air exhaust outlet.

Here is the 1.5" exhaust line plumbed to the collection bucket.

<img src=http://sio.midco.net/cdshelton/website/page14/skimmer/126_2655.JPG>

You can also see that I added a single union ball valve to the drain line. This allows me to easily remove the line and shut off the air to the skimmer, which in turns shuts down the skimmate production when I empty the bucket. I also drilled a hole and siliconed a piece of acrylic over it to use as a viewing pane to see when I need to empty the bucket.

I have also added a carbon filter to remove pollutants in the air before they go into the skimmer. This helps with those occasional skimmer production interruptions due to pollutants, aerosols, etc. in the air. Here you can see the intake line with the 3ft. long by 1.5" diameter air filter along side the exhaust line. Also notice that there is a tee with a gate valve on the 2 intake ends. This allows me to adjust how much air I am drawing from inside and outside with the turn of a valve. This has been nice as I cannot run very much outside air into the skimmer when it is cold out or it freezes up the air intake ports at the injectors.

<img src=http://sio.midco.net/cdshelton/website/page14/skimmer/126_2658.JPG>

And here is what the skimmer looks like nowdays with the added modifications.

<img src=http://sio.midco.net/cdshelton/website/page14/skimmer/126_2662.JPG>
 
vmichael said:
Travis- per your request

ph 8.3
dKH 12.6
CA 380-400
Temp 76

Thanks. So far it seems reasonable to hypothesize that the higher alkalinity levels lead to calcium carbonate precipitation on the ORP probe sensors, which is why they need to be frequently cleaned.
 
Ive got a precision marine skimmer, and Im considering drilling a hole in the top to add a nipple to drop an ozone airstone down into the bottom of the skimmer chamber. it seems as thought the extra air would aid in the foam production, and this would safely put ALL the ozone into the reactor (then I can filter the collection cup air) without risk of having it end up in the stand. I currently run the skimmer "wide open" i have actually removed the air intake valve assembly entirely, and run it open. I was planning on either running a line down into the injection assembly, or drilling the top of the skimmer, adding a nipple, and drawing the O3 into the bottom of the skimmer with an airstone.

I would have ample check valves on the ozone airline to keep the unit from drawing up water when the ozone unit is off (I have just bought an Aquacontroller III PRO that will be here friday).

Is this a good idea, or is the airline in the injection assembly good enough? I just like the idea of having it contained inside the skimmer, and also helping create more bubbles with the ozone airstone.

Input is apprectiated.
 
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