Thumbs up for Ozone!

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harsaphes,I'm not sure.I'm trying to decide on one myself.Thats a awsome view you have.Is that your apartment or office?
I'm thinking of getting one of the Enalys and a orp monitor,it will be cheaper then a redsea
 
Cosmo^Kramer said:
Heres a quick question.Is it a must to use a ORP controller or would a monitor be ok?
Thanks Vmichael for the link

No it is not a must... But I recommend it with large ozone units especially on smaller tanks... ozone can nuke your tank... If you have a smaller tank and a very large ozone unit I would also make sure you use carbon...
Dave
 
Lets see.I just bought a PH controller.Now i'm gonna get a Ozone generator and ORP controller.You guys are gonna see me Out on the lawn with my clothes,tank and my new controllers
 
harsaphes,i'll have to drop some frags off sometime :) the cube looks sweet !
can you post what one your getting,i'd appreciate it
 
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should i get the red sea with the probe or not?...anyone.
thanks


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I got the red sea with the probe, because I didn't want to have problems with too high orp
 
Does adding ozone help with algea control?

I understand it clears up your water. Does ozone have any other benefits?
 
I agree with Shred5;
I've got too much invested in the reef to not use a controller.

$hit happens, and if it does you want to be ready for it.
 
So how do these Enlay unit's work compared to the several hundred dollar red sea units? I"m planning on using it on a 200g reef w/ about 275 total gallons of water.

BTW, I already have a orp monitor, I guess it would be wise to sell that and get a controller?
 
I'm still looking for a few more O3 reactor picts. I like the mazzei injection but want to see a few more reactors. I dont think this will cut it.
fishtank.jpg

From the enaly site. :eek2:
 
OMG!
Definitely, NOT the way yo use ozone in Aquaria.

instead make a simple reactor with a piece of 3" pvc and 2 end caps. Drill and tap 2 holes; 1 for entry 1 for exit. Place bio balls inside the reactor to allow the o3 more time to react with the water in the reactor. The EXIT water from the reactor can go into the skimmer or a sump but be sure to use carbon to absorb any residual O3 before the water gets back into your main tank.

You can pump in the o3 with a venturi or with an air pump unit like the one above. If your not a DIY'fer then go out a purchase an inexpensive skimmer or reactor for this purpose.

Ozone is is not to be used light heartedly.

With regard to the Enaly in the previous picture; the unit without the internal pump would seem to be a better choice for reefers. I 'm not sure what kind of air pump is inside the unit but if it fails; I don't see how you can pump air through it!
 
1 of the good things about the Enaly is that it took almost a month for the ORP level to go from 284mv (before the O3) to 380mv (current level). This ensured that the inhabitants did not stress. No matter what unit you use to create the O3, it is documented that you should not raise more then 20mv per day initially. So far the Enaly is doing the trick at a very inexpensive price. Only time will tell if the unit last as long as the pricier units out there. After all, its just a corona (without the lemon) that has air passing through it. That's like air passing through the filaments of a very, very, very bright light bulb.

In fact, Corona is the ionization of the nitrogen in the air, caused by an intense electrical field. Electrical corona can be distinguished from arcing in that corona starts and stops at essentially the same voltage and is invisible during the day and requires darkness to see at night. Arcing starts at a voltage and stops at a voltage about 50% lower and is visible to the naked eye day or night if the gap is large enough (about 5/8" at 3500 volts). Corona produces sound, nitric acid (in the presence of moisture), ozone, and ultraviolet light.
 
vmichael said:
1 of the good things about the Enaly is that it took almost a month for the ORP level to go from 284mv (before the O3) to 380mv (current level). This ensured that the inhabitants did not stress. No matter what unit you use to create the O3, it is documented that you should not raise more then 20mv per day initially. So far the Enaly is doing the trick at a very inexpensive price. Only time will tell if the unit last as long as the pricier units out there. After all, its just a corona (without the lemon) that has air passing through it. That's like air passing through the filaments of a very, very, very bright light bulb.

In fact, Corona is the ionization of the nitrogen in the air, caused by an intense electrical field. Electrical corona can be distinguished from arcing in that corona starts and stops at essentially the same voltage and is invisible during the day and requires darkness to see at night. Arcing starts at a voltage and stops at a voltage about 50% lower and is visible to the naked eye day or night if the gap is large enough (about 5/8" at 3500 volts). Corona produces sound, nitric acid (in the presence of moisture), ozone, and ultraviolet light.

Agreed ...Like I said earlier in the thread, it is better to go slow... You can shock your coral pretty easily... Don't need another thread like the rowaphos thread...Ozone can have a dramatic affect on water clarity.. You dont need your corals to bleach due to all the additional light they will be getting..

Dave
 
Fishfood,i was thinking the same thing..lol
I'm going to get a good unit,like the others are sying it's not worth going cheap on something we have tons of money invested in.
 
i think i may go for it Kramer. for 20 bucks shipped its pretty hard not to give it a try. Unless someone tells me to stay away
 
How big is your tank?
75 mg would work on nano reef
or it will take almost 3 months to get yuo up to where you want to be.
 
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