Who wants a cheap, simple, Arduino-based LED controller?
- Thread starter der_wille_zur_macht
- Start date
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
See the comments made by davidpesce a few pages back. You need to be sure you're using the correct version of the Button library.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
sammy, that is really slick!
sammy113
New member
lol you know me! but actually I had to pay to get these done. The laser guy at college have me flagged for doing non related to school stuff so I can't abuse anymore. by the way, did your modified version of the Typhon has the same button configuration and ports located in the same place or did you moved something? Errol wants one for his typhon and asked me to build one for you
mm.reefs
Member
My board is bigger than the original Thypon due to more components and options, but don't worry, I already solved what eclosure and buttons to use for it. It's not so neat like yours but it do the work well. Also I don't have more original Thypon pcb's, Errol's was the last one. By the way, do you fixed the one that got corroded? PM me if you still need help with it.
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A push button on/off switch, and a resistor takes care of the backlight control. Resistor dims the light, and push button bypasses the resistor. A knob type trimpot could be used instead of resistor, or both.. resistor sets the dim amount, while trimpot can set brightness when button is pressed.
Also... have you ever considered making your own pcb's?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnzdS3l60Wo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKEe3otWstM
http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-PCB-Bubble-Etch-Tank/
And instead of using an iron to transfer the black ink to the copper, I've read of people using laminating machines...
http://www.bot-thoughts.com/2009/08/simple-diy-pcb-etching.html
You'd obviously need to design for a "single-sided" board, just need to use jumpers so not to cross traces. In the long run.. it would be cheaper than ordering from a pcb house.
I'm pretty new at this. I've got the Modern Device USB-BUB II, and I'm having trouble finding a driver for it. I'm using a machine running Windows 7. Also, there are two 3 pin headers with jumpers, how do these jumpers need to be placed? I've found some examples for the regular BUB, but not the BUB II.
Thanks.
Thanks.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
From the product page:
If it were me, I would ignore the jumpers, put on a 90 degree female header, and leave the hardware alone otherwise.
The BUB uses the ultra-common FTDI chip, so it should use the same driver as any other FTDI device (i.e. older Arduino boards, BUB I, FTDI cables, etc). I've never used it on Win7 so I can't really give you a direct answer.
If it were me, I would ignore the jumpers, put on a 90 degree female header, and leave the hardware alone otherwise.
The BUB uses the ultra-common FTDI chip, so it should use the same driver as any other FTDI device (i.e. older Arduino boards, BUB I, FTDI cables, etc). I've never used it on Win7 so I can't really give you a direct answer.
I'll have to try it on my other machine then. When I plug it in, the LEDs flash once, and then nothing happens (other than the usual beep that it makes when I plug a phone into it to charge it). If I put jumpers on it, the lights stay on, and the computer says hardware is detected but cannot find device drivers. So I'll give it a shot on my other machine with XP.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Yeah, sorry I can't help without direct experience with that version of the BUB. I actually lost my original BUB a few weeks ago so I just bought the lilypad FTDI breakout.
It must be a Windows 7 issue. I just plugged the BUB II into my XP machine, and it detected the device and installed 2 driver files without a lick. And I can't even get that machine to surf the internet right now (even though it has both functioning wired and wireless connections... Norton won't even open, yet something else I have to tinker with.... :/
I'm looking for little help with my temp sensor (hookup and coding)
I've found a temp sensor on modern device http://shop.moderndevice.com/products/temperature-sensor
Here is the sketch for it,
/*TMP37.pde
* Arduino Sketch to read a TMP37 Temperature Sensor
* Paul Badger
* 2010
* Sensor works between 5 degrees & 100 degrees C
* 20 mV / degree C
* Can be used with TMP35 & TMP36 by changing voltsPerDegree
*/
float voltsPerDegree = 0.02; // change to 0.01 for TMP35 & 36
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
}
void loop() {
int sensorValue;
float volts;
float celsius;
float farenheit;
sensorValue = analogRead(0);
volts = sensorValue * 5.0 / 1024.0; // convert AD units to volts
// convert volts to celsius
celsius = (sensorValue * 5.0 / 1024.0) / voltsPerDegree;
// standard conversion from celsius to farenheit
farenheit = (((sensorValue * 5.0 / 1024.0) / voltsPerDegree) * 9.0 / 5.0) + 32;
Serial.print(sensorValue, DEC);
Serial.print(" A/D units ");
Serial.print(volts);
Serial.print(" volts ");
Serial.print(celsius);
Serial.print(" degrees C ");
Serial.print(farenheit);
Serial.println(" degrees F");
}
Which i have tested on BBB from modern device and it shows temp of the probe via the serial port on ardunio. I"ve soldered wires to each leg and shrink wrapped each leg individually so there is no possibility of shorting anything out when attached to heat sink. So far so good.
Well next is the hard part for me.
This part
sensorValue = analogRead(0);
If I was to attach the temp probe to the serial port on Typhoon, what do I put in for the input port/pin instead of the (0) part
The next problem for me is replacing all the lines of serial.print with some sort of LCD.print command to actually display the temp on the typhoon. I would only need the deg F line to print .
Hope that is not too much to ask
I've found a temp sensor on modern device http://shop.moderndevice.com/products/temperature-sensor
Here is the sketch for it,
/*TMP37.pde
* Arduino Sketch to read a TMP37 Temperature Sensor
* Paul Badger
* 2010
* Sensor works between 5 degrees & 100 degrees C
* 20 mV / degree C
* Can be used with TMP35 & TMP36 by changing voltsPerDegree
*/
float voltsPerDegree = 0.02; // change to 0.01 for TMP35 & 36
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
}
void loop() {
int sensorValue;
float volts;
float celsius;
float farenheit;
sensorValue = analogRead(0);
volts = sensorValue * 5.0 / 1024.0; // convert AD units to volts
// convert volts to celsius
celsius = (sensorValue * 5.0 / 1024.0) / voltsPerDegree;
// standard conversion from celsius to farenheit
farenheit = (((sensorValue * 5.0 / 1024.0) / voltsPerDegree) * 9.0 / 5.0) + 32;
Serial.print(sensorValue, DEC);
Serial.print(" A/D units ");
Serial.print(volts);
Serial.print(" volts ");
Serial.print(celsius);
Serial.print(" degrees C ");
Serial.print(farenheit);
Serial.println(" degrees F");
}
Which i have tested on BBB from modern device and it shows temp of the probe via the serial port on ardunio. I"ve soldered wires to each leg and shrink wrapped each leg individually so there is no possibility of shorting anything out when attached to heat sink. So far so good.
Well next is the hard part for me.
This part
sensorValue = analogRead(0);
If I was to attach the temp probe to the serial port on Typhoon, what do I put in for the input port/pin instead of the (0) part
The next problem for me is replacing all the lines of serial.print with some sort of LCD.print command to actually display the temp on the typhoon. I would only need the deg F line to print .
Hope that is not too much to ask
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
You can't connect it to the serial port, without some interface in between. That temperature sensor is a basic analog sensor. You need to connect it to an analog input pin. If you have a beta (pre 1.0) version of the Typhon hardware, you're out of luck. If you have 1.0, you're in luck - A3 was broken out on a separate pin header near the LED headers, so you can use that.
If you do have an earlier version of the hardware, you can "greenwire" it by soldering directly to the pad for A3 on the AVR. A3 is not connected to anything so it's available, but this will be a bit awkward.
The next problem for me is replacing all the lines of serial.print with some sort of LCD.print command to actually display the temp on the typhoon. I would only need the deg F line to print .
Hope that is not too much to ask
Look at the typhon firmware sketch around line 388. The portion of the big if statement for menucount = 1. That's the "default" menu screen, so if you want to alter what shows up in the default state, you'll need to put code there. Currently, the code shows the current date and time plus the % value for each of the 4 LED channels.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
What do you all think about the 16x2 screen currently used on the Typhon? If we're making a newer, better version should we stay with that screen size or go to something larger, i.e. 20x4? It would allow much nicer menus and more info on the "home" screen, but it would bump the price by maybe $5-$7.
I do have the pre 1.0 so i'll have to "greenwire"
Just to make sure, the analog pin 3 is the one marked 26 , PC3 (ADC3) on the picture above. To which i can solder the temp sensor?
Thanks!
I had one of the early sketches that did not show date, just time, so i thought there was room on the home screen.
And i'm for bigger screen if it fits, (i think i even have one laying around)
pandimus
Active member
Well... The bigger screen would be nice.. But Maybe there should be a point where a new thread/controller project is started.. Well i dont know.. its still going to be a basic controller, which is what you kind of had in mind for this project. I think.. So, bigger is better, but def not necessary. I think you know where im going here. On second thought.. this is just basically a revision of the intitial project with a few new features added. enough rambling...
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