shark boy
New member
A new thread would make a clear distinction between this ver and the older ones.
Typhon ][ Basic controller?
Who wants a cheap, simple, Arduino-based LED controller?
- Thread starter der_wille_zur_macht
- Start date
A new thread would make a clear distinction between this ver and the older ones.
Typhon ][ Basic controller?
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Yes, this is correct. In theory your board should have a socket for the AVR so you're really soldering to the pin on the socket, not the AVR itself. Soldering on the bottom of the board will be easiest. Ideally you'd run a short wire to some other fixed point on the board or on your enclosure, then use a terminal or some other connection to the wiring harness for the sensor. As far as I know that sensor needs GND and +v as well...
There will definitely be a new thread. Once I get this new board up and running I'm planning on doing a "everything you need to know about Typhon in one place" kinda thread.
I'm for a larger screen if possible.
In fact, I'm actually up for making two of these now since we have two LED retrofitted Bio-cubes in the house. It would be a lot easier to manage the LED's using the PWM input instead of instant On/Off.
I'd love a temp and some other options but not sure how possible it is. Building the LED and doing the retro fit work wasn't bad. Designing or adding to a base circuit board is another thing all together. So I'm trying to leverage something that is already done rather than buying another Neptune type controller at that price (3 kids in college!).
Mean Well power supplies is used by the one (via Rapid) and the other tank uses Steve's with his drivers - not sure what either of those are actually but they are holding up well and have good color.
Is it possible to go in on the next revision of boards with someone once ready?
In fact, I'm actually up for making two of these now since we have two LED retrofitted Bio-cubes in the house. It would be a lot easier to manage the LED's using the PWM input instead of instant On/Off.
I'd love a temp and some other options but not sure how possible it is. Building the LED and doing the retro fit work wasn't bad. Designing or adding to a base circuit board is another thing all together. So I'm trying to leverage something that is already done rather than buying another Neptune type controller at that price (3 kids in college!).
Mean Well power supplies is used by the one (via Rapid) and the other tank uses Steve's with his drivers - not sure what either of those are actually but they are holding up well and have good color.
Is it possible to go in on the next revision of boards with someone once ready?
Thanks!
Yes i was planing on soldering to the socket on the bottom side. And also thought about using some sort of mini connection socket or some such. And also correct of GNG and +5v, I should be able to find something with 5v on the board somewhere to attach it to.
On the other hand, modern device has another temp sensor that is i2c compatible, http://shop.moderndevice.com/products/tmp421-temperature-sensor
but i'm not sure how to make that work yet. Baby steps first
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Wow, somehow I'd missed that sensor to date. It looks really amazing. I2C is my favorite bus for this stuff and it has very good resolution.
I went to the Arduino site and downloaded 0022, and the sketch verifies with no errors at all.
On another note, I went to the FTDI website and downloaded the drivers for windows 7, and it appears to be fine now. Now I'm just waiting for my PCBs to show up. :spin1:
pandimus
Active member
I finally got mine built. Uploaded the sketch, Took forever... For those who try this, just download .22 arduino ide, and The old buttons library, and eepromvar. Put them in the librarys folder in the arduino folders. open the arduino program. find the typhoon.pde you downloaded and then verify it. It should compile good. then upload it.
Ok so my select and +- buttons work fine.. all other menus, i can set start time/stop time, duration fade etc etc..
except to set the time. I push + - and select and nothing happens. I dont have a battery yet, but i wouldnt think this would affect it..
Ok so my select and +- buttons work fine.. all other menus, i can set start time/stop time, duration fade etc etc..
except to set the time. I push + - and select and nothing happens. I dont have a battery yet, but i wouldnt think this would affect it..
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
If you don't have a batter the RTC is probably not functioning correctly. It won't operate without SOMETHING there. If you want to run it without a battery, put a bit of bare wire or something else conductive in the battery holder to short out the leads. Most of the time they'll run like this (though of course you'll loose memory when it loses power).
pandimus, that's the way the battery clip is designed to operate. I used that clip as a holdover from when I designed the Hydra. On that design there were other components/pads UNDER the battery so we needed it raised up. On this design that isn't the case. In version 2 of the Typhon I'm using a different clip, fwiw.
Speaking of version two, what do people think about the FTDI chip being onboard? It would mean you would not need a separate FTDI breakout to program the device, but it would bump the price up by ~$5. Right now, I'm thinking I may put the parts in the design, along with a header for the serial port (as there is now) which would let people choose. If you wanted it onboard, buy the parts and solder them in. If you already have a cable or BUB or other breakout, leave the parts off and just plug your breakout into the header. What do people think of this?
pandimus, that's the way the battery clip is designed to operate. I used that clip as a holdover from when I designed the Hydra. On that design there were other components/pads UNDER the battery so we needed it raised up. On this design that isn't the case. In version 2 of the Typhon I'm using a different clip, fwiw.
Speaking of version two, what do people think about the FTDI chip being onboard? It would mean you would not need a separate FTDI breakout to program the device, but it would bump the price up by ~$5. Right now, I'm thinking I may put the parts in the design, along with a header for the serial port (as there is now) which would let people choose. If you wanted it onboard, buy the parts and solder them in. If you already have a cable or BUB or other breakout, leave the parts off and just plug your breakout into the header. What do people think of this?
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
If you don't have a batter the RTC is probably not functioning correctly. It won't operate without SOMETHING there. If you want to run it without a battery, put a bit of bare wire or something else conductive in the battery holder to short out the leads. Most of the time they'll run like this (though of course you'll loose memory when it loses power).
pandimus, that's the way the battery clip is designed to operate. I used that clip as a holdover from when I designed the Hydra. On that design there were other components/pads UNDER the battery so we needed it raised up. On this design that isn't the case. In version 2 of the Typhon I'm using a different clip, fwiw.
Speaking of version two, what do people think about the FTDI chip being onboard? It would mean you would not need a separate FTDI breakout to program the device, but it would bump the price up by ~$5. Right now, I'm thinking I may put the parts in the design, along with a header for the serial port (as there is now) which would let people choose. If you wanted it onboard, buy the parts and solder them in. If you already have a cable or BUB or other breakout, leave the parts off and just plug your breakout into the header. What do people think of this?
pandimus, that's the way the battery clip is designed to operate. I used that clip as a holdover from when I designed the Hydra. On that design there were other components/pads UNDER the battery so we needed it raised up. On this design that isn't the case. In version 2 of the Typhon I'm using a different clip, fwiw.
Speaking of version two, what do people think about the FTDI chip being onboard? It would mean you would not need a separate FTDI breakout to program the device, but it would bump the price up by ~$5. Right now, I'm thinking I may put the parts in the design, along with a header for the serial port (as there is now) which would let people choose. If you wanted it onboard, buy the parts and solder them in. If you already have a cable or BUB or other breakout, leave the parts off and just plug your breakout into the header. What do people think of this?
pandimus
Active member
That would be a good idea, to have the option. I obviosly have a bub, but for those who are only doing this one option, it would be preferable (and cheaper), to just put the usb onboard.
Thanks on the battery tip. After i started putting components together i just left those dowel pins on, makes it easier to insert the battery.. I just haven't bought a battery yet. But now that you mention it does make sense because the clock isn't functioning at all. well off to get a battery.
Thanks on the battery tip. After i started putting components together i just left those dowel pins on, makes it easier to insert the battery.. I just haven't bought a battery yet. But now that you mention it does make sense because the clock isn't functioning at all. well off to get a battery.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Check ebay if you don't mind the shipping delay. You can probably get 10 or 20 batteries for what a single will cost at a local drugstore.
pandimus
Active member
too late, found one at my local mom and pop hardware store. 3 bucks.. works like a champ now.. thank you.
to hook it to my 3 driver 1401 board, How do i attach the leads? obviously positive lead goes to the individual pwm circuit, what about the - lead? I have the older board with the mix match etching.
to hook it to my 3 driver 1401 board, How do i attach the leads? obviously positive lead goes to the individual pwm circuit, what about the - lead? I have the older board with the mix match etching.
What about a chip used for the pinguino boards (arduino compatible), for a board with the PIC32MX220F032D you have the usb support, or for 5$ more an integrated rtc (PIC32MX440F256H)? You can easily add micro sd flash reader or have enough memory for a web server, but that's not a typhon any more
:hmm2: I'm planning to use an arm STM32F4 for my next controller.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Yeah, there are definitely many other platforms we could move to that would get us all sorts of great features but you're absolutely right, then it wouldn't be a Typhon any more. 
I have some cool thoughts for the UI but I want to work them out before I talk about them in public.
I have some cool thoughts for the UI but I want to work them out before I talk about them in public.
SchnitzelReef
Active member
Well after spending about 2 hours reading thru this thread,(which is awesome!) I never found an exact answer to....WILL THE TYPHON DIMM THE ELN 60-48D?? A few people have said yes, some have said maybe....i don't understand. The typhon is supposed to be PWM, and the eln D is 0-10v analog...so technically it shouldnt...right? And if it does work will you explain how to hook it up. Also if it does DIMM, will it DIMM gradually from 5%-100%? Or will it only DIMM in steps...(I originally posted this in a diff thread by accident). Thanks for any help
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
There have been many anecdotal reports that it works just fine. It's not the CORRECT way to dim the analog version of the ELN, but apparently it works without any issues for many people. I've never heard someone report that it did not work.
You would wire it the same way as the digital version.
Dimming performance would be the same as the digital version - i.e. you'd get a response as indicated in the datasheet, albeit chopped into 100 discrete steps.
You would wire it the same way as the digital version.
Dimming performance would be the same as the digital version - i.e. you'd get a response as indicated in the datasheet, albeit chopped into 100 discrete steps.
TheFishMan65
New member
I don't think that is quite true. I think you get 255 step, but not linear like the P version. Some one posted a chart and 10% was not 10% of the PWM signal more like 50% (IIRC). So you may have to play with steps to get the correct gradual brightening and dimming. I have not tried this only read about it maybe in Katchupoy's thread (Another Arduino build or something close).
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
To be clear, that's why I worded things like this:
For reference, the datasheet shows now (non?) linear the response is:
http://www.meanwell.com/search/eln-60/ELN-60-spec.pdf
For reference, the datasheet shows now (non?) linear the response is:
http://www.meanwell.com/search/eln-60/ELN-60-spec.pdf
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