295-gallon Peninsular ZEOVit SPS with Solaris I Series

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I am not sure if the AquaMedic can be flow controlled... they make some that work off DC current, so varying the voltage might work... a potentiometer could do it...
 
Hi Ed,
There are three pieces for me from this pump. I use it for the Balling metod dosage / clac. dosage/. You find it reverse a silicon pipe and two pieces of back-stop valve in that box. Under a turn 5 ml , under a minute 50ml and 3 litres are going through them under a clock. There is an any kind of statement opportunity on the pump. You have to buy a timer switch by what you can regulate it every minute. Very good and practical. It works silent.
Maybe this'll help for you.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12325010#post12325010 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by i2ik
Thanks Ed! I know Aqua Medic, but if i remember correctly, this one is not adjustable right? I was looking for a model that i could adjust the flow, but those seem to be really expensive as they are considered hospital equipment.

No, this pump flow rate is fix and not adjustable...you might want to consider a William Pump for this purpose but can be quite pricey... :(
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12326644#post12326644 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by peter1
Hi Ed,
There are three pieces for me from this pump. I use it for the Balling metod dosage / clac. dosage/. You find it reverse a silicon pipe and two pieces of back-stop valve in that box. Under a turn 5 ml , under a minute 50ml and 3 litres are going through them under a clock. There is an any kind of statement opportunity on the pump. You have to buy a timer switch by what you can regulate it every minute. Very good and practical. It works silent.
Maybe this'll help for you.

Thanks Peter1 - I intend to used it only as a feed for my Calcium Reactor so a fix flow should be fine for my purposes. In my current tank I'm using a Grotech Tec 3 for balling but don't intend to used this method for my new tank... :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12324548#post12324548 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by paulsilver
I also use the AquaMedic pumps, and they are quite reliable... and when they do go down, the tech support is good as well...

Thanks Paul, that's good to know... :)
 
What about using 2 of those pump to get higher GPH? One Aqua Medic SP 3000 is having 50mL/min so using 2 would do 100mL/min and i could control them with a by pass? what do you think? (sorry for highjacking your thread Ed)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12329804#post12329804 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by i2ik
(sorry for highjacking your thread Ed)

No problem Richard....at least you keep bumping my thread to the 1st page... :D

Btw, what are u planning to used the peri pumps for?? would be easier to advise if we know your purpose?? I don't see any reason not to work with your suggestion as both pumps will be consistent in drawing out the water... :)
 
“PLUMMER” AT WORK

“PLUMMER” AT WORK

14 â€"œ 16 April, 2008 (Sunday - Wednesday)

My tank maker advises that I can’t place any water for at least a week :eek: but at least I can start working on my plumbing this week… :rolleye1:

I borrow the saw machine from the hotel to cut those PVC pipes…. :p a little over do, I know, but since I can get my hands on one, why not!! I must say it’s helps to get a nice clean cut on the pipes and to avoid those soaring arms you get from all the sawing…. :D

Mmmmm….plumbing took longer than I expect. Spend the next few days hooking up my plumbing….and by the time I’m finished, I was having a continues bad migraine and getting high daily…!!

Going really slow with the plumbing, as this is the least favorite part of mine and apart from the Sun, I can only do it after my work and not too late if I use the cutter or my neighbors will start knocking my door down…!! I measure and re-measure and re-measure again before gluing any of the pipes so to make sure it all fits…Well, I guess better slow and steady rather than regret later… :fun5:

Below is the revised draft of my plumbing work as I have since change the sump design slightly (yes, the revised sump is slightly larger than the original plan) and relocated all my equipments onto one side so that I can keep those crazy wires in one place, hidden behind my powerbox….

TankDetailRevised.png


Complete Plumbing Installed:
Overview02.jpg

Overview01.jpg


Return from overflow:
Fromoverflow.jpg
 
I made a durso to hopefully reduce the noise from the returns to the sump tank. The return pipe is connected from a 40mm to a 50mm pipe to allow excess air to be push up the hole on top of the Durso. Another trick I pick up on RC…thanks guys…!!

Plumbing â€"œ from return pump to sump:
ReturnClose-up04.jpg

ReturnClose-up03.jpg

Return01.jpg


Plumbing from sump return to main tank is pretty straightforward. I installed 2 ball-valve before and after the return pump to enable me to take my return pump out anytime for repair and general cleaning…

Plumbing â€"œ from sump return to main tank:
ReturnTank.jpg

TopView-1.jpg


The return is pump back to the main tank over my powerbox panel:
ReturnoverPowerbox.jpg
 
T-off from the return pump to my chiller with a ball valve to control the flow. I will connect a 25mm rubber hose to my chiller and back

T-offtoChiller.jpg


The chiller piping is then return into the main return via a 25mm to 50mm T connector with a ball valve to control the flow.

T-offfromchillerreturntomain.jpg


To control the flow for my skimmer feed, I T-off from one of my return pipe

Plumbing â€"œ T-off to Skimmer and MPT:
T-offtoskimmerandMPT.jpg


Another return pipe is T-off to feed my multi-purpose tank using a 40mm to 32mm reducer pipe with a ball valve connected so I can turn it on/off whenever I need to used the multi-purpose tank

MPTReturnFlow.jpg
 
If you notice my tank top view picture, I have 8 holes pre-drill in my euro bracing and all those holes section plumbing have a union connected so it’s pretty easy and flexible where I want to add on these flows in the future… :D

Eurobracing.jpg


T-offtoReturn.jpg


Oh yeah, I raise my plumbing slightly and slant it towards the end of the tank so this will help reduce back-flow during power-down …. I will drill two holes each on my return pipe to avoid back siphon once I do my wet test and confirm the water line :idea:

Plumbing â€"œ 1” Penductor return:
Penductor.jpg


And these are my maintenance pipes…idea is I can easily connect a rubber hose to the PVC pipe for my WC to drain out the water from my multi-tank and return tank area…

Maintenance pipe for Multi Purpose Tank (MPT)
MaintainanceforMPT.jpg


Maintenance pipe for main sump tank:
SkimmerLine-in.jpg


My valve factory….

Valvefactory.jpg


Return from skimmer to return tank and my very own ‘Captain Hook’….

ReturnfromSkimmer.jpg


WITH THAT I NOW DECLARE MYSELF A QUALIFIED PLUMMER…BUT A VERY SLOW ONE… :p

Now that that’s out of the way…….
 
Terry, I'm making my skimmer return to the last baffle of the return...do you think I will have micro bubbles?? Alternatively I can run the skimmer return into a filter bag but that will means 1 more bag to clean daily... :(
 
You might, but won't really know til your get your tank wet and equipment running. Even if you don't get bubbles, running a filter bag on your skimmer's drain isn't a bad idea. I did that on my Euroreef. You'd be surprised at how dirty that bag gets!!

Why do you clean your filter socks daily?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12348537#post12348537 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tbone28
Why do you clean your filter socks daily?

I have wooden floors, if u have not notice and would have to risk a flood from filter bags getting too much dirt in them...unfortunate past experience so now I make sure I clean them out daily... :D
 
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