Chinese LED Lights

i measured the distance between my light and the water in my 75 gallon and its 13'' high with no optics in a canopy. is that too high? i feel it is not as bright as it should be. is there any reason to have it this high up?
 
i measured the distance between my light and the water in my 75 gallon and its 13'' high with no optics in a canopy. is that too high? i feel it is not as bright as it should be. is there any reason to have it this high up?

If you think its dim, the light is too high. The light is extremely bright at 100% over my 125 in open air

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I purchased the D120 (or something similar to it) one year ago. I now see the IT 120 has all these extra programmable features!! Does anyone have experience going from the D120 to IT120. Does the IT full spectrum look appreciably better? I love the programmability and moonlights.


Anybody? Just wondering how much better the full spectrum looks versus white/blue. Is it worth purchasing a new light?
 
Anybody? Just wondering how much better the full spectrum looks versus white/blue. Is it worth purchasing a new light?

If you can solder, you could always buy the colored LEDs and add them in. A lot of people prefer the controllability of the Photon fixtures. Yes, full spectrum makes a big difference in coral coloration and light color.
 
If you can solder, you could always buy the colored LEDs and add them in. A lot of people prefer the controllability of the Photon fixtures. Yes, full spectrum makes a big difference in coral coloration and light color.


Not much of a DIY guy and I like the controllability of the photon. Plus my current set up doesn't have a moonlight function which I ilike to have. Now I need to decide if I pull the trigger now, or wait to see what you will be bringing out next. Will you have your new fixture ready and available at MAX? I live in SoCal and will be attending and would love to see your stuff in person.
 
Anybody? Just wondering how much better the full spectrum looks versus white/blue. Is it worth purchasing a new light?

Huge difference. I was one of the first few to make many changes and modifications over a years time in the old thread to end up with what is now very close to the reef breeders default layout. Ive made even further mods still, but the leds arent available from them and require soldering.

While standard blue/white can still grow coral, many different types of coral will not grow as well and will lose color over time without the added spectrum in the full spectrum layouts. I've seen it firsthand.

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Anybody? Just wondering how much better the full spectrum looks versus white/blue. Is it worth purchasing a new light?

My fixture had whites/blue for 2 months until I soldered in more colors. I am not noticing a big difference except in my yellows and greens. I would not replace a light just because of them.
 
More Mille growth. The fact that this SPS piece is alive is a miracle. It "died" when I transferred it to the new tank. Here it is reborn after ~2 months.

Before it died in the old tank.

IMG_20120911_201433.jpg


Reborn

photo7_zps401f6f10.jpg
 
Anybody? Just wondering how much better the full spectrum looks versus white/blue. Is it worth purchasing a new light?

I agree with Tek, the full spectrum is better for the coral, but the difference in human viewing isn't a huge difference. However, if you think you might want better control of the light intensity, have sunrise and sunsets, and moonlights, then get an IT series. Even the moonlights can be ramped up or down during the night.
 
Hi, guys! İ try to make a new aquarium. İts about 250cmx70cmx95cm (h) i have 5 COB 50w chinese leds 3 cool white and 2 blue. İs that combination suitible for sps or lps?



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Huge difference. I was one of the first few to make many changes and modifications over a years time in the old thread to end up with what is now very close to the reef breeders default layout. Ive made even further mods still, but the leds arent available from them and require soldering.

While standard blue/white can still grow coral, many different types of coral will not grow as well and will lose color over time without the added spectrum in the full spectrum layouts. I've seen it firsthand.

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OK... I somehow ran into this thread as I was researching to see if LEDs could replace what I have, as I am getting ready to replace my current light setup due to the fact that it's time to change out the MH and T5 bulbs.
I currently run 2 X 150 Watt 14000 Kelvin Phoenix MH with a total of 6 48 inch T5 bulbs on / off at different cycles controlled by by Apex.
The tank is a 48 X 24 X 25 with a plastic center brace.

What would be the general consensus as to which units would provide a similar light output or more and as far as spectrum goes? Two of the IT units? What are these photon units on the Reefbreeders site, and wwhy would I choose the IT 120 unit over, say the 120 watt Bridgelux Value LED Fixtures or the Photon units?

Last of all, better to get two 24" units or a single 32" unit over my 48" long tank?

I am concerned about the synchronicity of two separate units so the lights can be ramped up in sync throughout the day.

Thanks so much in advance! This is one crazy thread!

Art
 
OK... I somehow ran into this thread as I was researching to see if LEDs could replace what I have, as I am getting ready to replace my current light setup due to the fact that it's time to change out the MH and T5 bulbs.
I currently run 2 X 150 Watt 14000 Kelvin Phoenix MH with a total of 6 48 inch T5 bulbs on / off at different cycles controlled by by Apex.
The tank is a 48 X 24 X 25 with a plastic center brace.

What would be the general consensus as to which units would provide a similar light output or more and as far as spectrum goes? Two of the IT units? What are these photon units on the Reefbreeders site, and wwhy would I choose the IT 120 unit over, say the 120 watt Bridgelux Value LED Fixtures or the Photon units?

Last of all, better to get two 24" units or a single 32" unit over my 48" long tank?

I am concerned about the synchronicity of two separate units so the lights can be ramped up in sync throughout the day.

Thanks so much in advance! This is one crazy thread!

Art
The Photon32 (IT2080 with our name and built to our specs) would work over that tank, however you would have shaodws in the outer 6" of your tank on each side. A user replaced 3 x 250mh bulbs, I believe they were phoenix on an ice cap ballast, and had to dial the unit down, so they are plenty powerful. 2 16" units would provide full coverage, with minimal if any shadowing, and you would get a minimum of about 200 par on the sand bed at full power. (the minimum for the 32 would be about 100 in the edges). I have units synched over my 125 long, sometimes when the power goes out, they might end up being a few seconds apart, but if you program the time with one remote, they will be synched for the most part. The benefit over the value fixtures is that you can program a sunrise and sunset, and you have moonlights. The hanging kit is much nicer, as is the case design. They also have a heat sink, so you can run them at 100% power for a long period of time, and the untis will remain cool to the touch.
 
The Photon32 (IT2080 with our name and built to our specs) would work over that tank, however you would have shaodws in the outer 6" of your tank on each side. A user replaced 3 x 250mh bulbs, I believe they were phoenix on an ice cap ballast, and had to dial the unit down, so they are plenty powerful. 2 16" units would provide full coverage, with minimal if any shadowing, and you would get a minimum of about 200 par on the sand bed at full power. (the minimum for the 32 would be about 100 in the edges). I have units synched over my 125 long, sometimes when the power goes out, they might end up being a few seconds apart, but if you program the time with one remote, they will be synched for the most part. The benefit over the value fixtures is that you can program a sunrise and sunset, and you have moonlights. The hanging kit is much nicer, as is the case design. They also have a heat sink, so you can run them at 100% power for a long period of time, and the untis will remain cool to the touch.

So if the 16" units may have shadowing, would I not be better off with 2 24" units? How far above the water are these being hung? These will be fixtures placed in such a manner so they are hidden from view for an in-wall setup, but accessible from the inside of the fishroom that the tank is in.

Can these be controlled by by Neptune Apex?

Last of all, what is this Supernova fixture I have heard about?

Thanks in advance!
 
So if the 16" units may have shadowing, would I not be better off with 2 24" units? How far above the water are these being hung? These will be fixtures placed in such a manner so they are hidden from view for an in-wall setup, but accessible from the inside of the fishroom that the tank is in.

Can these be controlled by by Neptune Apex?

Last of all, what is this Supernova fixture I have heard about?

Thanks in advance!

They will likely not have shadowing. You would be at about 8-10" off the water. If they are accesible fromt he fish room, I would place them backwards so you can access the controller in there. Be sure to keep you fish room cool to extend the life of the units, plenty of air circulation also helps.
 
Thank you Logan -

Has the Supernova been released yet? and will it have controllability via the apex, wifi, etc?
 
Thank you Logan -

Has the Supernova been released yet? and will it have controllability via the apex, wifi, etc?

The SuperNova is not out yet. It will not be Apex compatible, it will be programmable through wifi, or an lcd remote (for those without computers). It will do much more than the apex can do with a light.
 
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