Chinese LED Lights

[Ron Reefman]

Ron did you get those par readings for me. Just so i no if my.lights are yo high or to low thanks

Steve,

Sorry for taking so long but life has been getting in the way. Just too many good things going on.

First, my light is only 7" off the water and you wanted 8", but raising mine is kind of a pain so you'll have to live with numbers based on a 7" off the water height. I set the lights at the settings you wanted and here's what I got. At the surface just under the water the PAR was 720-730. At 5" under it was 440-450 and at 9" it was 320-330. I can't get any deeper than that and still be under the light. Is that helpful enough?

 

[meshwheel]

Dammit Ron, get some PAR numbers already..........LOL

 

[Ron Reefman]

Dammit Ron, get some PAR numbers already..........LOL

What, these aren't good enough! :lmao: :beer:

 

[Reef_Breeders]

What, these aren't good enough! :lmao: :beer:

What percentage power was that at? I was getting about 300-350 at 21 inches with both channels at 100%

 

[Phishguy]

I'm curious too reefman about more details.. Those aren't exactly stellar numbers... Also, which fixture is that?

 

[ReeferSteve78]

Steve,

Sorry for taking so long but life has been getting in the way. Just too many good things going on.

First, my light is only 7" off the water and you wanted 8", but raising mine is kind of a pain so you'll have to live with numbers based on a 7" off the water height. I set the lights at the settings you wanted and here's what I got. At the surface just under the water the PAR was 720-730. At 5" under it was 440-450 and at 9" it was 320-330. I can't get any deeper than that and still be under the light. Is that helpful enough?

Sorry to bother you Ron wont happen again glad your life is spectacular hope it stays that way :lmao:

 

[ReeferSteve78]

What percentage power was that at? I was getting about 300-350 at 21 inches with both channels at 100%

My lights are at 7" above water and wanted to no if haveing my channels at 60% channel1 and 50% channel2 with an 18" deep tank was good enough to keep calms and sps on sandbed...thanks

 

[Vygantas]

Hello, i need your oppinion about this combination of it2060 evergrow LED light :

Channel 1: 24 - 450nm royal blue.

Channel 2: 10 - 12000k cool whites, 6 - 3500k warm whites 2 - 480nm blues, 2 - 520nm greens, 2 - 660nm reds, and 2 - 410-420nm violets.

Channel 3: 3 - 480nm blue moonlights

 

[Reef_Breeders]

Hello, i need your oppinion about this combination of it2060 evergrow LED light :

Channel 1: 24 - 450nm royal blue.

Channel 2: 10 - 12000k cool whites, 6 - 3500k warm whites 2 - 480nm blues, 2 - 520nm greens, 2 - 660nm reds, and 2 - 410-420nm violets.

Channel 3: 3 - 480nm blue moonlights

I would ditch the cool whites, and warm whites, and go all nuetrals. Add about 2-3 more violets.

 

[Jerrick]

So where do you fing the it2080?? Any links? I Searched the web with no luck...also do you just place your order then email the customized layout you want? Thanks.

 

[Ron Reefman]

What percentage power was that at? I was getting about 300-350 at 21 inches with both channels at 100%

Logan,

Those were at 60% blue and 50% white.

ReeferSteve,

You weren't bugging me, I was just busy. If you have questions, feel free to ask, it just may take a day or two. I have no idea how I got by when I worked a 40 hour week? There just isn't enough time in the day...

Jerrick,
You can go to Logan at Reef Breeders (see above, and they are also in the sponsor forums here at RC) He changed the name from IT2080 to something else, I don't know why...
or direct to EverGrow (that's what I did) at: sales05@evergrowlighting.com

 

[ReeferSteve78]

Thanks Ron Reefman for all your help. I understand what you mean I work 40 hrs a week and take care of my kid and never have time to do much haha but if I do have anymore question I will ask thank you

 

[Amoore311]

Can anyone help me with a light recommendation?

I've got a 36 x 36 x 18 custom rimless. It is currently lit by a single 250 Watt HQI (Icecap E-Ballast, Lumenbrite Finished Pendant, Phoenix 14k Bulb). The reflector is up a bit higher in order to cover the entire footprint. Everything controlled with an Apex Controller.


I was following the last LED Light thread, but unfortunately lost a bit of interest in the hobby as a whole over the last couple of months. I'm coming back now though, but as I read this thread.... it's obvious a lot has changed.

I have kept SPS packed tanks in the past, but am bringing this one back as a low maintenance tank. I want a bubbletip anemone, and some basic softies really nothing much fancier than that.



Any suggestions on lighting for me? I preferred the look to the full spectrum fixtures, not just the white/blue ones.

 

[Ron Reefman]

Can anyone help me with a light recommendation? I've got a 36 x 36 x 18 custom rimless. It is currently lit by a single 250 Watt HQI (Icecap E-Ballast, Lumenbrite Finished Pendant, Phoenix 14k Bulb). The reflector is up a bit higher in order to cover the entire footprint. Everything controlled with an Apex Controller.

I have kept SPS packed tanks in the past, but am bringing this one back as a low maintenance tank. I want a bubbletip anemone, and some basic softies really nothing much fancier than that.

Any suggestions on lighting for me? I preferred the look to the full spectrum fixtures, not just the white/blue ones.

My suggestion (and I'm no expert) would be 2 D120's by EverGrow (or Reef Breeders rebraded version) or 2 IT2060's. The IT2060 is the same number of leds as the IT2040 (well, I'm 99% sure it is anyway), but it's longer so the light is spread out and covers a bigger footprint. My choice would be the IT2060's with the built in controller, moonlights, better hanging system and a single power cord.

 

[soul4surfin]

So I am about to pull the trigger on 2 IT2040's or IT2060's ....whatever best fits my budget. I have 90 gallon tank, standard dimensions, and am planning on building a custom canopy to hang these higher off the water than what my current canopy will allow (2-3) inches. So my question is what degree optics to go with? Bhaz suggested at one point that if it was going to be in a canopy and only 2-3 inches off the water to go with 120 optics. Just wondering if I should go with 90 now that they will be higher up.

Thoughts... Opinions....

 

[Reef_Breeders]

So I am about to pull the trigger on 2 IT2040's or IT2060's ....whatever best fits my budget. I have 90 gallon tank, standard dimensions, and am planning on building a custom canopy to hang these higher off the water than what my current canopy will allow (2-3) inches. So my question is what degree optics to go with? Bhaz suggested at one point that if it was going to be in a canopy and only 2-3 inches off the water to go with 120 optics. Just wondering if I should go with 90 now that they will be higher up.

Thoughts... Opinions....

Definitely go with 90s if you can. They will increase par on the bottom. either 2 Photon16s or 2 24s would work equally well.

 

[soul4surfin]

Ron...Bhaz your thoughts ?

 

[bhazard451]

Ron...Bhaz your thoughts ?

90. The optics are easily removeable if it somehow doesn't work out.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Ron Reefman]

Ron...Bhaz your thoughts ?

I'd definetly go with 90's. With 2 2040 or 2 2060 you will have great end to end coverage, your tank is 18" front to back, so that's no problem and 90's will give you good depth penetration.

The one thing you might think about (I'm even considering it) is that 90 degree lenses makes the light very 'focused' or beam like, shining straight down. I was used to the MH, t5 and led strips I had really scattering light everywhere. With my old lights, even the shadows were soft due to bounced and reflected light as well as multiple sources. I find the leds create a look that has much more 'contrast'. The rock are as bright or brighter than ever, but the shadows under rock edges are much darker than before. I think it's because the light is so focused.

I moved my lights forward in the tank to get better lighting down the face of my LR wall and to try and light up the shadows a bit better. That spilled some light out the fron glass and put the rocks near the top of the wall in the back into more shade than light. So I tipped the lights toward the back just a bit. Now the front sand is lit, but no light spills out, the shadows have been reduced (some, but not as much as I would really like) and the rocks at the top of the wall in the back are lit better, and after all, they are only a couple of inches under the water surface.

Now I'm thinking of pulling a few lenses off some of the front row of leds and maybe some in back as well. Taking them off the front may reduce the contrasty bright rocks and dark shadows by spreading more light around and filling in the shadows some. And along the back to better light the upper wall corals, and I don't need penetration as the water is very shallow back there. I don't know if that will help, but when I get my 120 degree lenses, I'm going to try it.

But moving the light forward a few inches and tipping it back a few degrees reduced the super dark shadows some. And it reduced the glare seen under the lights when sitting in the same room and looking at the tank. Two of my lights are under a canopy so it doesn't really matter, but my 3rd light is hung over the anemone tank and has no canopy. After making this adjustment it makes the tank much easier to look at, especially in a dark room. I highly recommend this set up for anybody not using a canopy.

 

[soul4surfin]

I'd definetly go with 90's. With 2 2040 or 2 2060 you will have great end to end coverage, your tank is 18" front to back, so that's no problem and 90's will give you good depth penetration.

The one thing you might think about (I'm even considering it) is that 90 degree lenses makes the light very 'focused' or beam like, shining straight down. I was used to the MH, t5 and led strips I had really scattering light everywhere. With my old lights, even the shadows were soft due to bounced and reflected light as well as multiple sources. I find the leds create a look that has much more 'contrast'. The rock are as bright or brighter than ever, but the shadows under rock edges are much darker than before. I think it's because the light is so focused.

I moved my lights forward in the tank to get better lighting down the face of my LR wall and to try and light up the shadows a bit better. That spilled some light out the fron glass and put the rocks near the top of the wall in the back into more shade than light. So I tipped the lights toward the back just a bit. Now the front sand is lit, but no light spills out, the shadows have been reduced (some, but not as much as I would really like) and the rocks at the top of the wall in the back are lit better, and after all, they are only a couple of inches under the water surface.

Now I'm thinking of pulling a few lenses off some of the front row of leds and maybe some in back as well. Taking them off the front may reduce the contrasty bright rocks and dark shadows by spreading more light around and filling in the shadows some. And along the back to better light the upper wall corals, and I don't need penetration as the water is very shallow back there. I don't know if that will help, but when I get my 120 degree lenses, I'm going to try it.

But moving the light forward a few inches and tipping it back a few degrees reduced the super dark shadows some. And it reduced the glare seen under the lights when sitting in the same room and looking at the tank. Two of my lights are under a canopy so it doesn't really matter, but my 3rd light is hung over the anemone tank and has no canopy. After making this adjustment it makes the tank much easier to look at, especially in a dark room. I highly recommend this set up for anybody not using a canopy.

Thanks for the insight. So you are going to remove some of your 90's and replace with 120's or just remove some of your 90's? If you are replacing some with 120's...how many are you planning on doing and how much are the extra set of 120's ?