Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
thanks, Larry!
thanks, Larry!
bookmarked it as a fav on my PC!
thanks, Larry!
bookmarked it as a fav on my PC!
Lanthanum chloride
- Thread starter Gary Majchrzak
- Start date
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
Not done it yet. Plan on doing that with about 450 lbs of rock curing in DT on closed loop with the skimmer ruining and no sand. Will likely use that method and just run pump up to bucket where I drip the LaCl. I figure having the overflow pipe about 3/4 up will allow some of the precipitate to settle out. Any that makes it to overflow will get caught by sock.
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Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
personally, I don't do this. I use GFO to get PO4 down the last few n'ths of a ppm AFTER a LaCl3 treatment. I'm sure you can run GFO while dosing LaCl3 but I don't do it. It doesn't make any sense.
SPotter
Active member
Thanks Gary. Ive declared an all out war on my pukani. Ive torn my tank a part and one of the reasons was the rock is leaching so niw its in a bin after being dipped in muriatic, rinsed and soaked in a 50/50 vinegar bath. I will start with LaCl3 and then finish off with gfo.
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Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
that sounds like the appropriate order of treatment. Good luck!
Tigé21v
Active member
Do you know if these socks have a plastic, or a metal ring?
I ran regenerated gfo continuosly. If I needed a further tweak on PO4 reduction I used some LaCl periodically in small amounts. It was never a problem. I don't see why it would be, unless too much of them or of either was/were used causing a precipitous drop in PO4 which might give some corals a hard time adjusting.
Now, I don't use either, except very rarely, since organic carbon dosing is doing a nice job holding PO4 and NO3 at low levels in my tanks.
Now, I don't use either, except very rarely, since organic carbon dosing is doing a nice job holding PO4 and NO3 at low levels in my tanks.
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
organic carbon dosing interests me
organic carbon dosing interests me
and maybe I'll experiment with it some day, Tom.
Just guessing... there's a huge difference in operating costs?
For example: I'm still using the original $30 bottle of LaCl3 that I purchased at the beginning of this thread. My two $5 10 micron socks lasted up until a week ago. Several years of LaCl3 PO4 reduction treatments have cost me about $40. That's pretty darn good!
organic carbon dosing interests me
and maybe I'll experiment with it some day, Tom.
Just guessing... there's a huge difference in operating costs?
For example: I'm still using the original $30 bottle of LaCl3 that I purchased at the beginning of this thread. My two $5 10 micron socks lasted up until a week ago. Several years of LaCl3 PO4 reduction treatments have cost me about $40. That's pretty darn good!
Organic carbon dosing a has a good thing for me a number of reasons, better than I hoped .
But so is lanthanum chloride and gfo.
At times I've used all three .
Costwise:
I use about $115 in bottom shelf vodka and $ 30 worth of vinegar for the 650 gallons per year.
GFO is pricey but nice ; I regenerated the heck out of it getting about 8 uses out of each bunch of HC gfo.
I use the Seakelar original strength . I dilute it with ro to a a strength equal to commercial hobby products ,ie, 60% water. A $35 quart of it gets me the equivalent of about 8 bottles of comparable hobby product which would otherwise cost about $25 each.
But so is lanthanum chloride and gfo.
At times I've used all three .
Costwise:
I use about $115 in bottom shelf vodka and $ 30 worth of vinegar for the 650 gallons per year.
GFO is pricey but nice ; I regenerated the heck out of it getting about 8 uses out of each bunch of HC gfo.
I use the Seakelar original strength . I dilute it with ro to a a strength equal to commercial hobby products ,ie, 60% water. A $35 quart of it gets me the equivalent of about 8 bottles of comparable hobby product which would otherwise cost about $25 each.
S2minute
New member
Lanthanum chloride
So now that my remaining 2 fish are in quarantine, i figured this is a good time to try and get my PO4 down with LC. I guess things happen in 3s...or 4s. I order it. I'm sent a quart of Natural Clarifier :headwally: OK, i order through Amazon this time and i'm sent a quart of the "CR" version :headwalls:. Out goes a nastygram. :thumbdown My luck seems to be waning as of late. So i guess unless i want to wait another nearly 2 weeks AGAIN, i may be stuck with this watered down version. I went through the entire thread once. I'm really not in the mood atm to do it again. So this CR version is ok to use? I don't remember the take on that.
So now that my remaining 2 fish are in quarantine, i figured this is a good time to try and get my PO4 down with LC. I guess things happen in 3s...or 4s. I order it. I'm sent a quart of Natural Clarifier :headwally: OK, i order through Amazon this time and i'm sent a quart of the "CR" version :headwalls:. Out goes a nastygram. :thumbdown My luck seems to be waning as of late. So i guess unless i want to wait another nearly 2 weeks AGAIN, i may be stuck with this watered down version. I went through the entire thread once. I'm really not in the mood atm to do it again. So this CR version is ok to use? I don't remember the take on that.
AT_Hiker
Member
I purchased my Pukani from BRS in mid-November. It took about 1 1/2 months to fully cycle, but I've had to continue to treat it with Lanthanum Chloride. It's been 2 1/2 months now and the water still turns milky white when I add the LC, which means it's still creating a lot of phosphate precipitate. If you're just starting this it's going to take more than a couple of weeks to get your phosphates to acceptable levels.
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
I purchased my Pukani from BRS in mid-November. It took about 1 1/2 months to fully cycle, but I've had to continue to treat it with Lanthanum Chloride. It's been 2 1/2 months now and the water still turns milky white when I add the LC, which means it's still creating a lot of phosphate precipitate. If you're just starting this it's going to take more than a couple of weeks to get your phosphates to acceptable levels.
It all depends on the rock you have. Pukani has one of the worst track records out of all the dry rock. Marco on the other hand does not require a lot of curing *typically.
*All depends on where the rock was recovered from.
S2minute
New member
Commercial Phosphate Remover
Commercial Phosphate Remover
Just got a timely response from the retailer that sent the wrong product. He stated that the picture displaying the product i was sent was wrong but, that SeaKlear replaced the reg product with the CR version now. However, he offered to send me free of charge the Commercial Phosphate Remover which removes 9,000 ppb vs. the 3,000. Naturally i said please send it :thumbsup:
Commercial Phosphate Remover
Just got a timely response from the retailer that sent the wrong product. He stated that the picture displaying the product i was sent was wrong but, that SeaKlear replaced the reg product with the CR version now. However, he offered to send me free of charge the Commercial Phosphate Remover which removes 9,000 ppb vs. the 3,000. Naturally i said please send it :thumbsup:
Last edited:
I purchased my Pukani from BRS in mid-November. It took about 1 1/2 months to fully cycle, but I've had to continue to treat it with Lanthanum Chloride. It's been 2 1/2 months now and the water still turns milky white when I add the LC, which means it's still creating a lot of phosphate precipitate. If you're just starting this it's going to take more than a couple of weeks to get your phosphates to acceptable levels.
Not necessarily; lanthanum will precipiitat e as lanthanum crabonate when the phospahte is exhausted or very low. The only way to judge the PO4 is to test it.
Not necessarily; lanthanum will precipiitat e as lanthanum crabonate when the phospahte is exhausted or very low. The only way to judge the PO4 is to test it.
S2minute
New member
This is where and what type of filter bags i bought. Note the ring is Hvy duty and Polypropylene:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Filter-Bag-1EUY5?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Filter-Bag-1EUY5?Pid=search
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