Lanthanum chloride

Thought I would give you guys a quick; update over the holiday period I started doing with the LC, to start with my levels were over 1ppm on the D&D PO4 test kit :eek2: Well after 3-4 weeks I have now got this down to 0.16 and am seeing huge improvments on my SPS so thank you for all your help :beer:

:thumbsup:
 
Inevitably, I would get precipitates collecting in the volute of the one pump, as I think that the 5 gallon pail was still too small of a reaction area to facilitate all of the precipitation process prior to the water passing through the skimmer.

I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong - I have been using a Maxijet to push water 'up' into a 6 gallon plastic bucket, which has an overflow that goes through a filter sock

I have a skimmer in the bucket - it just fits.

I drip into a filter sock inside the bucket, then it passes through the sock into the skimmer, probably gets recirculated, then through the over flow out to another sock, and into the sump.

I *never* get any buildup. The filter socks usually clog after several days of green stuff, but I don't see any white precipitate. If I drip to fast, I've seen some milky water; doesn't seem to collect anywhere really and it's a subtle effect.

My phospates are quite high - literally higher than the Hanna Phosphorus ULR meter will show, and they do drop after an application.

I'm using 5ml of the SeaKlear "Pool Juice" in about 2L of water to dose, and drip it with one of those Aqualifter pumps.

Should I use more?

== John ==
 
I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong - I have been using a Maxijet to push water 'up' into a 6 gallon plastic bucket, which has an overflow that goes through a filter sock

I have a skimmer in the bucket - it just fits.

I drip into a filter sock inside the bucket, then it passes through the sock into the skimmer, probably gets recirculated, then through the over flow out to another sock, and into the sump.

I *never* get any buildup. The filter socks usually clog after several days of green stuff, but I don't see any white precipitate. If I drip to fast, I've seen some milky water; doesn't seem to collect anywhere really and it's a subtle effect.

My phospates are quite high - literally higher than the Hanna Phosphorus ULR meter will show, and they do drop after an application.

I'm using 5ml of the SeaKlear "Pool Juice" in about 2L of water to dose, and drip it with one of those Aqualifter pumps.

Should I use more?

== John ==

what are the phosphate values before and after treatment?

is this a reef or FOWLR?

regarding the question of using more, depending on the resulting drop of phosphate level, I may go longer and more frequent treatments, not necessarily higher concentration
 
I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong - I have been using a Maxijet to push water 'up' into a 6 gallon plastic bucket, which has an overflow that goes through a filter sock

I have a skimmer in the bucket - it just fits.

I drip into a filter sock inside the bucket, then it passes through the sock into the skimmer, probably gets recirculated, then through the over flow out to another sock, and into the sump.

I *never* get any buildup. The filter socks usually clog after several days of green stuff, but I don't see any white precipitate. If I drip to fast, I've seen some milky water; doesn't seem to collect anywhere really and it's a subtle effect.

My phospates are quite high - literally higher than the Hanna Phosphorus ULR meter will show, and they do drop after an application.

I'm using 5ml of the SeaKlear "Pool Juice" in about 2L of water to dose, and drip it with one of those Aqualifter pumps.

Should I use more?

== John ==

Did you ever take apart your skimmer pump? I'm assuming you are pumping the feed water in through that first filter sock as well.

the other thing to keep in mind is that the flow-thu should be very slow - i.e just trickling into that second sock in the sump. If the flow-thru is too fast then the reaction could take place after your setup. Furthermore if you are getting a drop in PO4 after your treatments then I'd presume that some degree of reaction is taking place.... it's a question of where if you don't find evidence in your skimmer and filter socks.

Try slowing your system flow-throug to something perhaps just a little faster than a calcium reactor.... Also Gary's question re the sock rating should also be confirmed.

HTH,

Sheldon
 
I've been Reading up on L C For My Rock I'm cooking. I've been cooking it for 5 weeks now . And Have seen My Phosphate Levels Up to 2.0 . No skimmer , Just a Circ. pump.

What would be my best way to mix L C into the Brute Can?

I'm not rushing it.. But how long after my Phosphate levels go back to normal can I start my tank upgrade?
 
Wow made it...sorta...finally decided to read this thread didnt think it would take me over 3 hours

Anyone just starting here this sums it up

"place the 10 micron socks under aquarium drain returns. Dose LaCl3 into the draining water or into the socks. Use your skimmer as "cleanup"...to help remove whatever makes it through your 10 micron filters. To maximize results couple a LaCl3 treatment with a wet skim water change.
You can make a LaCl3 treatment as complicated as you want but the bottom line basics should be adhered to. Do not dose too much or too quickly. Don't cloud up the water. Monitor PO4 with a low range test kit and watch alkalinity. Go slowly. "
 
I think they are the same but the CR is more dilute,only about 33% as strong as the regular SeaKlear. I use the later and dilute it 60% with ro to make it easier to dose in small quantities.
 
I've been Reading up on L C For My Rock I'm cooking. I've been cooking it for 5 weeks now . And Have seen My Phosphate Levels Up to 2.0 . No skimmer , Just a Circ. pump.

What would be my best way to mix L C into the Brute Can?

I'm not rushing it.. But how long after my Phosphate levels go back to normal can I start my tank upgrade?

Put 5 gallon bucket above Brute, pump water up to it, put uniseal bulkhead 3/4 up the height of the bucket and put a 90 street elbow straight down to Brute to a 10 micron filter sock. Keep running until phosphates don't leach and your not running LaCl.
 
Put 5 gallon bucket above Brute, pump water up to it, put uniseal bulkhead 3/4 up the height of the bucket and put a 90 street elbow straight down to Brute to a 10 micron filter sock. Keep running until phosphates don't leach and your not running LaCl.

Dustin....are you then dripping into the 5g bucket or into the filter sock?
 
Put 5 gallon bucket above Brute, pump water up to it, put uniseal bulkhead 3/4 up the height of the bucket and put a 90 street elbow straight down to Brute to a 10 micron filter sock. Keep running until phosphates don't leach and your not running LaCl.

Thanks Dustin,
Any Idea Of How Much I will need? I have Roughly 100lbs of rock in 20 gallon Brute.
I read 5ml to 1 liter will treat 300 gallons....if this math is correct.??
 
Thanks well I already ordered the cr version. But I submitted a request to cancel but they said they couldn't guarantee it would be canceled.

Etheir way I am excited to get rid of some hair algae
 
Thanks well I already ordered the cr version. But I submitted a request to cancel but they said they couldn't guarantee it would be canceled.

Etheir way I am excited to get rid of some hair algae

If you're lucky enough to find the non CR version, it's a left over. Buy it right away, as it won't be there again if someone else beats you to it. Notice that they didn't cut the price by 66% when they cut the active ingredient by that much.
 
For rock curing, I don't bother to drip or filter . I just add the lc a few mls at a time to the curing bin and rinse the rock off to get rid of the precipitant when the water is PO4 free for a week . Filtering and dripping might be more efficient.
 
Gary, do the socks wear out after several washes? Do the "pores" get bigger with age?
wow, what a timing coincidence!

I've been running the SAME 10 micron socks for several years now (ever since the beginning of this thread!) but last week ago I noticed they need replacement due to wear.
There are definitely some "pores" that have gotten bigger with age.
Locating the same (replacement) 10 micron socks has proven to be a challenge. I might just need to purchase a whole box of them. Good thing they last a long time!
 

If they send you the CR version (not what's pictured in that link) make a stink about it, you might just get them to cut the price, or send you free product (as Poolgeek.com did for me) to make things even.

wow, what a timing coincidence!

I've been running the SAME 10 micron socks for several years now (ever since the beginning of this thread!) but last week ago I noticed they need replacement due to wear.
There are definitely some "pores" that have gotten bigger with age.
Locating the same (replacement) 10 micron socks has proven to be a challenge. I might just need to purchase a whole box of them. Good thing they last a long time!
You probably already know about this place, but just in case you don't, this is where I got my 10 MU and 50MU filter socks. They also offer all sorts of size and MU ratings:
http://utahbiodieselsupply.com/bagfilters.php
 
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