Lanthanum chloride

Well it's started. I have a bucket setup going just like Matts on post #303. I'm using 5ml of the Commercial Seaklear Phos Remover diluted into a 1 liter Acudose IV drip @ approx 1 drop every 4 seconds for 410 gals net water volume. Inital PO4 reading are .064 ppm per Hanna ULPhosphorus. The sock is located next to the skimmer intake. Started around 1pm est.

Any Suggestions ??
 
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Just got a timely response from the retailer that sent the wrong product. He stated that the picture displaying the product i was sent was wrong but, that SeaKlear replaced the reg product with the CR version now. However, he offered to send me free of charge the Commercial Phosphate Remover which removes 9,000 ppb vs. the 3,000. Naturally i said please send it :thumbsup:

when you recieve that ( Free bottle ) ....Please post the Name of it.

I'm curious if it is call Phos Free. .
I have a bottle of that which we use on our Pool.
 
when you recieve that ( Free bottle ) ....Please post the Name of it.

I'm curious if it is call Phos Free. .
I have a bottle of that which we use on our Pool.

i tried phosfree and its very diluted. i would suggest getting the seaklear.

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Lanthanum chloride

when you recieve that ( Free bottle ) ....Please post the Name of it.

I'm curious if it is call Phos Free. .
I have a bottle of that which we use on our Pool.

oh i got that free bottle all right...and it's called SeaKlear phosphate Remover COMMERCIAL....100 PROOF
 
oh i got that free bottle all right...and it's called SeaKlear phosphate Remover COMMERCIAL....100 PROOF

I had a feeling they were going to go that way. I wonder what they're charging for that "new" commercial product.....
 
Lanthanum chloride

Well it's started. I have a bucket setup going just like Matts on post #303. I'm using 5ml of the Commercial Seaklear Phos Remover diluted into a 1 liter Acudose IV drip @ approx 1 drop every 4 seconds for 410 gals net water volume. Inital PO4 reading are .064 ppm per Hanna ULPhosphorus. The sock is located next to the skimmer intake. Started around 1pm est.

Any Suggestions ??

Test results are in:

It took about 12 hours for the doser to empty. During that time, i noticed my Ph rise. It's gone from 8.05 at lights off to 8.11 @7:00 am est. The color of the bucket i used is Blue and i did notice a decent amout of white precip on the bottom. The 32" 10 micron bag, which was 1/2 way above the surface, clogged up to where the water line was and had a very light brown color. Hanna ULP read 20 ppb which converts to .061 down from .064. The skimmer is having a kid. AlK is 9.4.

Water change and maint. is next. Then i'll try the same setup but with 8ml of the same vs. 5ml.
 
For rock curing, I don't bother to drip or filter . I just add the lc a few mls at a time to the curing bin and rinse the rock off to get rid of the precipitant when the water is PO4 free for a week . Filtering and dripping might be more efficient.

Tom...when you say po4 free, what kit are you basing this on? are you talking low range results or regular kit where anything below .03 doesnt register like on salifert.

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As mentioned earlier, the water holding my Pukani rock still turns milky white after 2 1/2 months of treatment with LC. I tested the water with a Hanna checking last night and it reads 35 ppb. (0.035 ppm)
 
As mentioned earlier, the water holding my Pukani rock still turns milky white after 2 1/2 months of treatment with LC. I tested the water with a Hanna checking last night and it reads 35 ppb. (0.035 ppm)

How much do you add and how long does it stay milky for? i get the same milky color but the water clears after a few hrs.

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Originally Posted by liz62
Anybody have any success with using Agent Green lanthanum chloride phosphate remover for aquariums?

http://acrylictankmanufacturing.com/...s/agent-green/

I would not support them. The instructions say just to add to aquarium and it's safe for fish. This is not true if you're not mechanically filtering out the precipitate. Save yourself some money and dilute a product yourself.



I was just going to use it while cycling the rock in a rubbermaid. I have already bought it so is it safe to use it for this method?
 
Finished reading the thread and it has all the information I need to start Lanth dosing.
Will start of as per Gary recommendations of 5ml/1 litre for 130 gallon water.Will use a BM doser to dose 10 ml per day and take it from there.Current po4 reading is 0.22ppm.
 
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Got my shipment from backyard pool supply. this should be the stronger version correct?

I am hesitant to start dosing because I just start carbon dosing this week as well, any thoughts on that, would it be doing too much at once?
 
The 1st one i got is labled Seaklear Phosphate Remover "CR" for pools and stated it removes 3,000 ppb per quart.

The 2nd one, Seaklear Phosphate Remover "Commercial" and states it removes 9,000 ppb per quart.

So it either says CR for pools or just Commercial. Yours just says" for pools". I think they are all for the same purpose anyways but, your pic is a little unclear i can't read where it states how much it removes per quart....or maybe it's just the beer from tonight...
 
Originally Posted by liz62
Anybody have any success with using Agent Green lanthanum chloride phosphate remover for aquariums?

http://acrylictankmanufacturing.com/...s/agent-green/

I would not support them. The instructions say just to add to aquarium and it's safe for fish. This is not true if you're not mechanically filtering out the precipitate. Save yourself some money and dilute a product yourself.



I was just going to use it while cycling the rock in a rubbermaid. I have already bought it so is it safe to use it for this method?

It's not safe to dose directly into the aqaurium without filtering . It's fine to dose lanthanum chloride directly to a curing vessel with new rock, if the rock is leaching PO4. Just rinse it or swish it off before putting it in the tank to remove the loose precipitant. The rock may not need it ,though. Place the rock in newly mixed salt water for curing and test PO4 after a few days to a week to see if it's leaching . if so dose lanthanum in small amounts daily untill you get low PO4 readings for a week without dosing.
 
I am hesitant to start dosing because I just start carbon dosing this week as well, any thoughts on that, would it be doing too much at once?

If you mean organic carbon dosing ,then I would wait on the lanthanum dosing fro a couple of weeks unless our PO4 is high now . The bacteria assimilate PO4 ,nitrogen and organic carbon. At some point ,you may need to take Po4 further down than organic carbon will go but that's not always the case.FWIW, presently, I don't use any phosphate remover beyond the organic carbon ;levels hold at <.03ppm
 
Tom...when you say po4 free, what kit are you basing this on? are you talking low range results or regular kit where anything below .03 doesnt register like on salifert.

I should have said low not "free". At some point LaCl starts grabbing carbonate when Po4 is scarce.. I think less than .05 per hanah or salifert for a week is good enough and may be all you can expect before getting seriously diminished return for your effort.
 
As mentioned earlier, the water holding my Pukani rock still turns milky white after 2 1/2 months of treatment with LC. I tested the water with a Hanna checking last night and it reads 35 ppb. (0.035 ppm)

I don't think you can do better than .035ppm , including the margin of inaccuracy forteh meter. Put the rock in clean water for a week and see what the reading is. If it's still low; I'd use it.
 
Tom...when you say po4 free, what kit are you basing this on? are you talking low range results or regular kit where anything below .03 doesnt register like on salifert.

I should have said low not "free". At some point LaCl starts grabbing carbonate when Po4 is scarce.. I think less than .05 per hanah or salifert for a week is good enough and may be all you can expect before getting seriously diminished return for your effort.

Thanks Tom!!! I am testing .01 ppm on a milwaukee martini po4 tester for 4 days straight now and when I add some LaCl3 there is no reaction in the water.
 
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