OK! Enough chat...Starting a 1000g+ Reef

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Not always Shawn!!

For those of you DIYers annoyed by wasting acrylic "holes", I have posted what I did with one hole. This is a Probe Float as recommended by Curt at Neptune.

probe%20float1.jpg


probe%20float2.jpg


I got ya on that Marc! :D :D
 
25.5 inches...

25.5 inches...

getting closer to the overflow! :D

So below are a couple of pics of the new cone I made today. One is during cooling and one is mounted on the skimmer with gasket in place. BTW, the nylon screws are crap and I will be getting better ones. Also, I haven't cut the hole yet as I want to wait until I get the tube. So that will be a while unfortunately.

cone%20build.jpg


cone%20build2.jpg


What do you all think???:spin2:
 
Jonathan,

It is looking pretty good to me! I know all I can do with acrylic is make baffles and they don't look pretty, so I'm impressed.

Of course I impress easily and like shiny objects too :D

Brian
 
Weatherson uses stainless steel bolts and wingnuts. You might try the same, but don't overtighten and crack the acrylic. He's using thicker material.

I think it looks great. I'm not sure how you'll cut the hole out, but odds are you'll think of something.
 
re: Probes

re: Probes

Melev Said,
"I love that. No way the tops will ever get wet!"


Not to hijack guys, but I had a quick question:

I have a Milwaukee ORP and PH controller. I don't remember seeing in the directions NOT to submerge the probes.

For the first month I had them submerged in the sump. :eek: Didn't think I was getting the right readings so I moved them. They are currently hanging on the overflow with the tops out of the water.

After seeing this, now you've got me worried. Did I damage the probes by submerging them? :confused:

Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6929114#post6929114 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
Well, not my idea of course. Credit goes to spazz & weatherson!

Ah yes, both good @ engineering acrylic projects!
 
2 inches to the overflow!

mrcrab depends on the probe grade. "Lab" grade probes are made to be submerged and regular grade are not. There's no reason to have them submerged anyway AFAIK except in the case of being installed in-line. That seems a bit of a hassle to me, but I know many reefers do it.

Marc yeah, I am gong to check into the SS knobs. I think that will give a better life to the unit and less problems for me. I may tap both sides of each flange so that when i undo the bolts, they can stay mounted in the top piece and have less chance of falling into the sump!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6931369#post6931369 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
why is that?

It is called bridging. The space between the two flanges will stay constant. What ever the space at time of thread engagement to the next flange will always stay/ That is why drywall screws have a bare shank on the top. When the screw or bolt for that matter, screws into the recieving material, it causes a compression between the head and the material it is threaded into. If it is threaded into both pieces, it will stop pulling the recieving material as soon as the shoulder hits the top piece.

Dale
 
Maybe in a few weeks when I get some time off. Today is my first day off in a while. The family and I are on our way to The Indoor Reef in Tacoma. I want one of there pipe fish. Generally pipe fish take a species specific tank, but this particular one is a natural reef inhabitant in Australia. They have been keeping them in the display tank for the last ~year. My tank is lightly populated (90 gallon reef with Niger Trigger, Blue Tang, Diamond Gobie, Purple Fire Fish, Bangai Cardinal), so it should be calm enough to keep the fish happy.
 
tinygiants cool! I want to check out that place too.

salty joe the nylon just doesn't cut it. I haven't tried PVC screws yet, but that is an interesting idea.
 
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