Protocol for using antibiotics to treat infected anemones ~Added to 7/30/14
- Thread starter OrionN
- Start date
TheNewbie
New member
joshky
Acros & Wrasses
Ebay, sold as fish flox.
All you have to do is look
joshky
Acros & Wrasses
This is partially what I was talking about, sometimes it's more white and chunky looking. I just pulled this out from the anemone with a turkey baster, you can see the classic rat poop in the slime.
This is a current photo of it, it's probably 50% of its size in this photo, granted it is nighttime but there's a bit more deflation than a healthy mag would show for sure (based on how large I've seen it during the day).
This anemone has never been flat like a pancake, never once had a gaping wipe open mouth, and its never lost its stickiness and has been on that plate since I acquired it. I'm beginning to wonder if my problems are due to water quality issues? I've been doing sometimes 150% water changes to keep up with water quality and it always seems to be full of crud the next time I look at it. The anemone is in a 20 long so I took it upon myself to fill the tank up instead of keeping it half full (10g), I also upped the flow with a RW-8 I had lying around, light is a chinese black box that I have at 75% on both channels.
Here's a photo of when it was first received, but do note that I've seen it larger than that photo. With the water increase in my HT I've upped the dosage of cipro to 500mg/night.
On a side note, most of today this mag was partially balled up with short tentacles even during light hours. Does this mean anything to anyone? Later in the day is when I noticed deflation, but earlier on it was puffed up real nice even being balled up.
This is a current photo of it, it's probably 50% of its size in this photo, granted it is nighttime but there's a bit more deflation than a healthy mag would show for sure (based on how large I've seen it during the day).
This anemone has never been flat like a pancake, never once had a gaping wipe open mouth, and its never lost its stickiness and has been on that plate since I acquired it. I'm beginning to wonder if my problems are due to water quality issues? I've been doing sometimes 150% water changes to keep up with water quality and it always seems to be full of crud the next time I look at it. The anemone is in a 20 long so I took it upon myself to fill the tank up instead of keeping it half full (10g), I also upped the flow with a RW-8 I had lying around, light is a chinese black box that I have at 75% on both channels.
Here's a photo of when it was first received, but do note that I've seen it larger than that photo. With the water increase in my HT I've upped the dosage of cipro to 500mg/night.
On a side note, most of today this mag was partially balled up with short tentacles even during light hours. Does this mean anything to anyone? Later in the day is when I noticed deflation, but earlier on it was puffed up real nice even being balled up.
joshky
Acros & Wrasses
Okay thanks Minh, mine has been doing it quite excessively, I find myself pulling stuff like this out hourly when I can and even then it's not enough to keep the tank clean. I had strands similar to this float in my DT and I think some of it got wrapped up in one of my acros and caused it to partially brown out, there was no flow so I guess that's what happened. Should this be a concern when I reintroduce it to my DT?
Also what is considered an unhealthy deflation for an anemone in treatment? For instance, that photo if it being 50% deflated (give or take), would that reset the clock for when I can pull it out of the HT or is that normal due to stress from the environment? If that doesn't reset anything, then I can potentially remove it Wednesday should nothing else happen. I'd like to get it out of the HT, but of course rushing it will only hurt me so I'm not sure what to do.
Also what is considered an unhealthy deflation for an anemone in treatment? For instance, that photo if it being 50% deflated (give or take), would that reset the clock for when I can pull it out of the HT or is that normal due to stress from the environment? If that doesn't reset anything, then I can potentially remove it Wednesday should nothing else happen. I'd like to get it out of the HT, but of course rushing it will only hurt me so I'm not sure what to do.
joshky
Acros & Wrasses
If it continues to respond to the cipro like it is now I feel that I can confidently put it in the DT on Friday. Since switching to cipro the coloration of the anemone has dulled considerably, not quite as pretty anymore, but given time I'm sure it'll get back to normal; I will take that over a dead anemone any day.
I have been doing two water changes a day, one in the morning (then redosing cipro), and one in the evening after the lights go out and dosing for the night as well. Perhaps unnecessary but it seems to be doing well and the last thing I want to do is be lazy and skip a water change and then have problems. It seems this fish flox forte that I purchased on ebay clouds the water up more than the previous cipro that I had, the glass panels cloud up as well from it.
Here is a photo of today, I'm finally optimistic about this anemone and its recovery.
I have been doing two water changes a day, one in the morning (then redosing cipro), and one in the evening after the lights go out and dosing for the night as well. Perhaps unnecessary but it seems to be doing well and the last thing I want to do is be lazy and skip a water change and then have problems. It seems this fish flox forte that I purchased on ebay clouds the water up more than the previous cipro that I had, the glass panels cloud up as well from it.
Here is a photo of today, I'm finally optimistic about this anemone and its recovery.
So, I have a small magnifica, acquired yesterday and immediately treated with cipro, following the protocol. It has never had a gaping mouth, tents have been sticky, but it absolutely will not put its foot down. I have it sitting inside a small plastic storage crate inside the 10 gallon tank, in an attempt to keep the flow high enough without the free-floating nem somersaulting. It has a chunk of rock in there to attach to if it wants to. How big of a problem is it that it won't attach? It's much healthier than the only other one I have ever treated. It's not expelling gunk, it's not flattening out, it's keeping itself "anemone-shaped". Really, the only thing I don't like is the refusal to attach.
mnchartier
Premium Member
Try something smooth like a bowl or coffee mug for it to attach to. Lower the flow until it does.
droth335
New member
I am really glad I found this thread a few weeks ago as we acquired a Ritteri that looked good at first but quickly took a turn for the worse and was literally on death's doorstep. We had just enough time to treat for 7 days with Cipro before leaving for MACNA. Its turnaround is remarkable. Here is a pic of it about 10 days after treatment. Thanks for the help!
OrionN
Moved on
How is he today? I hope doing well. Often they do not attach due to foot injury.
Looking good. Give him a little time and he will recover and color up.I am really glad I found this thread a few weeks ago as we acquired a Ritteri that looked good at first but quickly took a turn for the worse and was literally on death's doorstep. We had just enough time to treat for 7 days with Cipro before leaving for MACNA. Its turnaround is remarkable. Here is a pic of it about 10 days after treatment. Thanks for the help!
Mine is quite happy now.
I have a degree in zoology and a fair amount of knowledge of comparative anatomy and physiology, so I feel like I have a decent skill at recognizing any loss of tissue integrity or tears. I have inspected it pretty closely on a couple of occasions and I've not seen anything that looks like a breach of the epidermis.
It had a fairly rough few days on the way to me, it came in a shipment of 36 other assorted anemones from Bali to a new LFS near me. I went on the way home from work and found all 36 undergoing a rather abrupt acclimation. I helped them sort through them and get them situated in something other than a bucket, and in the process, selected the one colour morph that stood out to me. It was completely deflated but seemed intact and it was holding its mouth closed and maintaining its overall shape. It was very sticky and the column felt stiff and contracted, rather than flaccid. I brought it home and immediately set up a treatment tank as described in this thread. I prophylactically treated it with Cipro for 6 days, although I suspect that I didn't need to. I think that in the first 24 hours, I was too aggressive with flow, and once I followed the advice I received in this thread to lower the flow until it was robustly attached (or in other words, stop hovering over it and micromanaging) it attached quite nicely. I am going to put it in the display tank today. I have never seen it with its mouth open and I think it's going to be much happier in a tank that has really stable para,enters, high flow and intense lighting.
I have no idea what the LFS is going to do with the other 11 magnifica that they received (yikes).
johnfallon135
New member
could i use a salt bucket as my quarentine?
OrionN
Moved on
It is hard to keep the anemone from the PH, and heater in a 5 gal bucket. If you are going to spend near 100.00 (OR MORE) for an anemone, I would recommend given appropriate care so you won't loose your investment.
You will need heater. PH in the QT tank. If you are not going to provide appropriate QT, then the anemone most likely do a lot better in DT.
You will need heater. PH in the QT tank. If you are not going to provide appropriate QT, then the anemone most likely do a lot better in DT.
D-Nak
Active member
If you're careful, you might be able to get away with it. But why bother when both Petco and Petsmart both have $1 per gallon sales on fish tanks? Just get yourself a 10 gallon tank. And if you want to make it easier on yourself, get two of them (if you have the space).
When you are considering purchasing an anemone, tack on $10-20 for the QT tank to the total price, and you'll realize that it's a drop in the (salt) bucket.
ClericalReefer
New member
Can My Magnifica go back in the DT?
Can My Magnifica go back in the DT?
Orion,
I found this thread last Wednesday after my Magnificent Anemone started inflating, then deflating, and so on... It looked awful.
I started the antibiotic treatment with cipro.
Day one: it was a 9
Day two: 7
Day three: 3
Day four 2 then a few hours of looking like a 9 again (but a lot of stuff spewed out of it - so I did a 70% water change and it went back to a 2)
Day five: 1-2
Day six: 1-2 and detached itself from the rock it was on and began climbing up the glass
Day seven (today): 1-2 probably a 1
Question: Should I keep dosing cipro? - its been 7 days and 3 days after its last deflation cycle.
What do I have to do to the rock that has been introduced to cipro before I put it back in the DT?
I really appreciate this thread! It helped me save this nem (I think!).
Can My Magnifica go back in the DT?
Orion,
I found this thread last Wednesday after my Magnificent Anemone started inflating, then deflating, and so on... It looked awful.
I started the antibiotic treatment with cipro.
Day one: it was a 9
Day two: 7
Day three: 3
Day four 2 then a few hours of looking like a 9 again (but a lot of stuff spewed out of it - so I did a 70% water change and it went back to a 2)
Day five: 1-2
Day six: 1-2 and detached itself from the rock it was on and began climbing up the glass
Day seven (today): 1-2 probably a 1
Question: Should I keep dosing cipro? - its been 7 days and 3 days after its last deflation cycle.
What do I have to do to the rock that has been introduced to cipro before I put it back in the DT?
I really appreciate this thread! It helped me save this nem (I think!).
OrionN
Moved on
if you can post a picture, when he is at his best and when he is at his worst, then we can help. Seem like he is doing OK. You can treat for a few more day or transfer him to DT. I would only transfer to DT if there are no Magnifica in there. If you have another magnifica in the DT, then I would keep him in QT without antibiotic for about 1 week, if he is healthy then transfer to DT.
It is critical that you try not to detach him from his attachment. This really stress them a lot. If he attached to the wall of the QT then there is no choice. I often bring the cup my anemone attach to over to the DT and let them attach to the rock themselves. Once they move off the cup, then I take the cup out of the DT.
It is critical that you try not to detach him from his attachment. This really stress them a lot. If he attached to the wall of the QT then there is no choice. I often bring the cup my anemone attach to over to the DT and let them attach to the rock themselves. Once they move off the cup, then I take the cup out of the DT.
johnfallon135
New member
how come you use a second tank only once? is it okay to just use 1 tank and drain and refill it with the anemone in it? also is a airstone necessary if there's a powerhead anyway?
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