johnfallon135
New member
oh yeah is adding something for it to attach to necessary as well? couldn't it just adhere to the glass? it would be easier to detach it later off the glass after the treatment is over rather than a mug or live rock?
Protocol for using antibiotics to treat infected anemones ~Added to 7/30/14
- Thread starter OrionN
- Start date
D-Nak
Active member
Having two tanks just makes it easier to do the transfer. Instead of having to wipe down the dirty tank, you can swap everything from one tank to another. You then clean the dirty tank for use the next evening.
Here's my routine:
1. Set up tank #1.
2. On night 2 when it's time to clean the tank, I drain it, then move the anemone into tank #2.
3. I start to fill up tank #2 with clean salt water.
4. While the tank is filling, I clean the heater and powerhead and eggcrate from the dirty tank.
5. Once tank #2 is full, I add the heater, powerhead and eggcrate, and fire everything back up.
6. I then add Cipro.
7. I clean tank #1 and prepare for use the next evening.
The benefit is that the nem isn't out of the water for very long, but to be honest I think gigantea and magnifica can be exposed to air for a long time, given that this happens in nature during low tide. And of course, convenience.
And no, I don't use an airstone in my QT tanks. Not really needed with a powerhead already in use.
D-Nak
Active member
Adding something for it to attach to is better because then you don't have to remove it after the QT process is over, you can just move the rock or mug to the DT and let it move off on its on.
If you opt for the two tank approach, it's obviously easier and less stressful simply to remove the nem/rock/mug than having to peel it off of the glass. If it's on the glass, then it's better to just use one tank.
OrionN
Moved on
I try my very best not to detach the anemone from his attachment. This stress them quite a bit IMO. I just have them attach to "something" then move it. Once in the DT, they move on to the rock and I can remove that "something" from the tank.
lewis.maryann08
New member
I have one that almost died in shipping and he has turned a brownish color and he don't open any all other corals look really good
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johnfallon135
New member
thanks for the responses guys. is there really any difference from switching between 2 tanks or just having 1 where i'll just drain and refill it with fresh medicated water? i guess the only benefit is that you get to clean the tanks better with 2 tanks? otherwise they're the same?
have you guys ever tried fragging your anemone if it gotten too big? or is it too inhumane? thanks!
have you guys ever tried fragging your anemone if it gotten too big? or is it too inhumane? thanks!
johnfallon135
New member
thanks minh i'm planning on getting a riterri/magnifica anemone. i'm surprised they can be fragged more easily than others since magnifica's are suppose to be the most difficult anemones to keep?
how would you go about fragging them? slice down the middle then put the 2 pieces back into the display tank or to the medicated tank? thanks!
how would you go about fragging them? slice down the middle then put the 2 pieces back into the display tank or to the medicated tank? thanks!
D-Nak
Active member
Yes -- it's really just about convenience. I like thoroughly cleaning my QT tanks, and even better to allow it to air dry, and two tanks makes that possible.
D-Nak
Active member
I don't think they're easily fragged, just that some mags have split in captivity in the past. People have successfully force propagated them, but the success rate is lower than with BTAs. I always recommend letting them split on their own.
johnfallon135
New member
how do the other anemone's repopulate if not by fission? if splitting is what you meant by fission that is.
johnfallon135
New member
Thanks. If my hospital tank's ammonia doesn't rise after a day and I leave my anemone in there without changing new water will I have to add cipro again or is it depleted by then? I'm lazy I know lol
Treating a H. crispa in a 20long tank. It has 10g in it + eggcrate with PH and heater. Each day I drain 5g out. And replace with 5g tank water [165 SPS in excelent health] Then add 250mg of cipro.
My reasoning to start treating is after 2days it wouldn't attach. So I suspect mabey it has a injured foot and a spot for infection to enter the anemone.
So to be proactive I jumped ahead.
Now at 9days it is getting some better color. Eating very small shrimp pieces. And reactive to touch. But still not trying to attach in sand or rock. [both sand and rock are in a small butter bowl.
Any helpful advice going forward.?
My reasoning to start treating is after 2days it wouldn't attach. So I suspect mabey it has a injured foot and a spot for infection to enter the anemone.
So to be proactive I jumped ahead.
Now at 9days it is getting some better color. Eating very small shrimp pieces. And reactive to touch. But still not trying to attach in sand or rock. [both sand and rock are in a small butter bowl.
Any helpful advice going forward.?
Has anyone tried using erythromycin as a cure. If it works, you could use it in a display tank. I have used it on a few occasions in the past as a treatment for cyanobacteria. Each time, I had anemones in my display tank. The first couple of times I have used erythromycin in my display tank, I had a blue gigas. There was nothing wrong with it and it showed no signs of stress or any problems with erythromycin. I eventually sold the gigas and recently bought a couple of H. crispa. The first was bleached and the second advertised as purple but when I received it, I could see it was dyed. Erythromycin did not cause any issues with these. In fact, the white crispa has started to go a dirty brown. But it may just be coincidence.
If erythromycin can treat anemones, it would be great because it is good with treating cyano as well. Besides, it does no harm to even the most delicate corals or fish (of course, you need to treat as prescribed). Unfortunately, my reasons were to treat cyano and not anemones, so I cannot say it will work or not with a sick anemone. However, I do not think it will harm it either.
If erythromycin can treat anemones, it would be great because it is good with treating cyano as well. Besides, it does no harm to even the most delicate corals or fish (of course, you need to treat as prescribed). Unfortunately, my reasons were to treat cyano and not anemones, so I cannot say it will work or not with a sick anemone. However, I do not think it will harm it either.
I have used erythromycin off and on over three years and have never had any issues. Usage is normally once every six months roughly. I am aware of a few high profile reefers who also use it. If there were going to be any issues, I am sure I would have found out by now. I would suggest its use but would not recommend it as each to his own. I would certainly use it again if necessary.
Picked up a Blue Gigantea on Liveaquaria that arrived this morning. I think it's a 5 on the 'Amoo' scale. Looking at the mouth, am I correct with this assessment? I've gone dark with the QT and started Cipro at 250mg. Looking forward to first w/c late morning tomorrow!
Major thanks to D-Nak for talking me through this stuff!!!
Major thanks to D-Nak for talking me through this stuff!!!
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Brando5185
New member
Did you get this off the Diver Den page?
