Reefbreeders/(Evergrow OEM) Fixtures D120/IT20** series

Hey Ron!?!?! I had asked you if a D120 would fit on a 40G breeder 36 x 18 x 17?

Well it works brilliantly, I switched over from a coralife aqualight pro fixture and have really enjoyed the evergrow unit.

I would say that 36" is probably the maximum coverage for only one unit though.
Here is a video of it up on my 40, although you will have to excuse the video. I am holding it with my hands, so its a little shakey.. I zoom out so you could see the fixture at the 7:00 minute mark.
Also I know my tank is too small for the tang and angelfish, but my water is very clean and I am going to get a 250G within the year so don't bite my head off, the fish are small both less than 3" so they are okay in here for the time being. Thanks for the advice Ron.

Kayo,

Really glad you like the light. And you're right, the D120 is very near or at it's limit at 3". I had 1 over my 4" 55g and I couldn't hang it high enough to cover 4'. Send me a PM when you get ready to start the 250g and maybe I can share a couple of unusual ideas with you that have worked well for me in my 180g.

And for anybody else that is interested, the OceanRevive Arctic S026, a new fixture on the market, is similar to the D120 but has some nice improvements over the D120. The case is wider and the leds are spread out over the entire base rather than being bunched up in the middle, So they spread light better than the D120 does. This really makes a difference in tanks that are 24" or more from front to back. I have 1 over my frag tank now and it's much slimmer than the D120 so I think it looks better as well. And the last point is it runs dead silent and at room temperature. After 8 hours at 100% power the case is cool to the touch!
 
Hi Ron,

Thanks for all the great info you've posted so far! Very informative thread and people like you are what makes Reef Central great.

I think it's been answered a few times, but to be sure, I have a standard AGA 90g tank that I am switching to LEDs. It does have a thin center brace and a canopy that I do not want to remove. I was trying to decide between two d120's or one 32" IT2080. However, the lights can only be mounted about 9" above the water line (probably more like 8" to leave room for the power cords) so I am wondering if the IT2080 will provide enough spread if centered above the 48" tank.

Also, should I use optics? If so, Im guessing I would need the 120's correct? I think that's what was mentioned earlier in the thread.

Thanks for the help.
 
I picked up a couple IT2080 fixtures at a local fish store and I'm loving them. What an awesome upgrade.



The only pain is that the custom setting resets anytime the power goes out and my breaker has been breaking a few times in the garage where the tank is atm.

I LOVE the shimmer effect. Having T5 before I was really missing that.
 
The only pain is that the custom setting resets anytime the power goes out and my breaker has been breaking a few times in the garage where the tank

Wow, that is a huge pain. Does it reset all the programs/settings? I'm surprised it doesn't store them in the controllers ram?

So basically, unless you have them hooked up to anaquarium controller (like an Apex), if the power goes out, the lights won't turn back on until you reprogram them? Or is there a default setting? And if there is a default setting, is it set to 100%?

I ask because we have plenty of power surges in our area and we travel a lot. I'd be worried that if this happens while travelling the tank could be left without light or worse yet, corals could bleach because they come back on at 100%.

I guess one solution would be a UPS system.
 
I picked up a couple IT2080 fixtures at a local fish store and I'm loving them. What an awesome upgrade.



The only pain is that the custom setting resets anytime the power goes out and my breaker has been breaking a few times in the garage where the tank is atm.

I LOVE the shimmer effect. Having T5 before I was really missing that.

I am experiencing this too with my it2080. There have been storms here lately and I've gotten some power surges. On mine it doesn't wipe out my custom program (like 40 points thank god) but it will revert to the default custom program for some reason which I forget what that is. So basically what I have to do when the power goes out and comes back on is go to custom, save, return. Then my custom program is back. Is this a known bug or something? It's been a pain in the *** lately because of all the storms.
 
I picked up a couple IT2080 fixtures at a local fish store and I'm loving them. What an awesome upgrade.



The only pain is that the custom setting resets anytime the power goes out and my breaker has been breaking a few times in the garage where the tank is atm.

Have you saved your custom settings after you have programmed the units? The units should hold your settings as they contain a battery backup.
 
Thanks Ron on the information on OceanRevive Arctic S026,can I use two of these units for a 60x20x20 tank.

Given you are only 20" deep, and if you can hang the fixtures a bit higher off the water (say 12"-14") I think they will be fine. The EG D120 does a 2' long stretch of light at about 6"-8" off the water. The OR is the same length but the leds are spread evenly over the entire face of the fixture rather than all bunched up in the middle. So they can make a bit bigger spread than the EG D120. They may even cover the 5' you need hung at 8".

If it really helps, I can do a test for you with mine. Send me a PM if that helps.
 
Hi Ron,

Thanks for all the great info you've posted so far! Very informative thread and people like you are what makes Reef Central great.

Thanks for the kind words. I'm just trying to payback for all the help RC has been for me over the years.

I think it's been answered a few times, but to be sure, I have a standard AGA 90g tank that I am switching to LEDs. It does have a thin center brace and a canopy that I do not want to remove. I was trying to decide between two d120's or one 32" IT2080. However, the lights can only be mounted about 9" above the water line (probably more like 8" to leave room for the power cords) so I am wondering if the IT2080 will provide enough spread if centered above the 48" tank.

Either set up should work. The 2 light system is probably a bit better (not much but a bit) as far as getting light out to the ends. With the IT2080 you can get the standard 90 degree lenses and buy 16 to 24 120 degree lenses and do 2 or 3 rows of them at each end (there are 4 leds in a row). With the 2 fixture system I'd stick with the 90's all the way. And I know OceanRevive is currently working on a new system that you might want to wait for. It involves a master and slave controller so you only need 1 controller to run 2 (or more) fixtures. It's probably 6-10 weeks from intoduction if everything goes well in testing. I'm on hold for it to put 2 over my 4' 55g local tank.

Also, should I use optics? If so, Im guessing I would need the 120's correct? I think that's what was mentioned earlier in the thread.

See above

Thanks for the help.

I hope that helps? If not, ask and I'll try to confuse you even more! :lmao:
 
I picked up a couple IT2080 fixtures at a local fish store and I'm loving them. What an awesome upgrade.

The only pain is that the custom setting resets anytime the power goes out and my breaker has been breaking a few times in the garage where the tank is atm.

I LOVE the shimmer effect. Having T5 before I was really missing that.

Besides saving the 'custom' settings at the end of the programing cycle there are 2 other things that help.

1) In the 'menu' there is a 'Factory Default' prompt. Open it and make sure that it is off. Otherwise when it restarts after a power out situation, it goes there rather than your custom settings.

2) If you are losing all your settings and have to reprogram all the times and levels, before you save, run the system thru the preview once and then save.

I had very similar issues to what you had before I figured it out. It's the one weak point with the EG product, crappy directions. But then we all know how common that is with Chinese products. I'm surprised that haven't asked somebody to write up new instructions! Hey EverGrow... call me! LOL! :headwally:
 
Hey thanks for this. I'm gonna try once I get home :)

Love this fixture by the way. I'm glad I bought this instead of 2 radions, saved a ton of money.....
 
A very helpful post. Indeed it just resets to the factory default. Because of this I just figured my custom was wiped out.

One thing that confounds me is the "save" setting. I get it highlighted and the > is there but nomatter what I hit nothing happens. All I can do in the end is back out. I'm hoping that hitting "ok" saved it even though there is no action or confirmation.

The blue is too blue at 100...the tank looks much more natural with the whites at 100 and the blues at 45 or so. Not as bright but no windex look. I'd like to see some people's custom settings.
 
I got the Photon 24" with the stock layout and although it is very nice, compared to D120 it looks a bit on the redish side.

The 24" has all 4500 warm whites where my D120 had cool white and neutrals only.

Has anyone replaced a couple warm whites with some cools or maybe even daylights such at 10k or 12k leds?

I'm just looking for a bit more "white" than a red cast. I run the white channel at 40% max during the day.
 
Given you are only 20" deep, and if you can hang the fixtures a bit higher off the water (say 12"-14") I think they will be fine. The EG D120 does a 2' long stretch of light at about 6"-8" off the water. The OR is the same length but the leds are spread evenly over the entire face of the fixture rather than all bunched up in the middle. So they can make a bit bigger spread than the EG D120. They may even cover the 5' you need hung at 8".

If it really helps, I can do a test for you with mine. Send me a PM if that helps.

Thanks Ron,have send you a PM.
 
A very helpful post. Indeed it just resets to the factory default. Because of this I just figured my custom was wiped out.

One thing that confounds me is the "save" setting. I get it highlighted and the > is there but nomatter what I hit nothing happens. All I can do in the end is back out. I'm hoping that hitting "ok" saved it even though there is no action or confirmation.

The blue is too blue at 100...the tank looks much more natural with the whites at 100 and the blues at 45 or so. Not as bright but no windex look. I'd like to see some people's custom settings.

save will save your program, even if nothing happens. What you have to do is go through the full preview, then hit save, then hit return.
 
Either set up should work. The 2 light system is probably a bit better (not much but a bit) as far as getting light out to the ends. With the IT2080 you can get the standard 90 degree lenses and buy 16 to 24 120 degree lenses and do 2 or 3 rows of them at each end (there are 4 leds in a row). With the 2 fixture system I'd stick with the 90's all the way. And I know OceanRevive is currently working on a new system that you might want to wait for. It involves a master and slave controller so you only need 1 controller to run 2 (or more) fixtures. It's probably 6-10 weeks from intoduction if everything goes well in testing. I'm on hold for it to put 2 over my 4' 55g local tank.

Sounds good. Thanks so much.

I wish I had time to wait for the new system, but unfortunately the tank is being lit on a friends borrowed light and I know he's gonna need it back before that.

I'm probably going to go for the IT 2080. I like the idea of having to deal with only one light and if the difference isn't that great when it comes to lighting the ends, I'll take my chances. As long as it doesn't look dark, I'll be happy. And I'll just place lower light corals on the ends.
 
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