Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[Overgrown]

Newb here, Forgive me for being confused but Im planning on running this set up on my 180g tank with a 40g sump. I plan to run it with an internal (shortened version) coast to coast with room for returns on the sides as a reefer did here >

.
I have several questions i hope i can get answered before i do any drilling.

I know on beans website he stated -I worked with the 1" bulkheads that I had, but larger bulkheads are perfectly suitable. He also stated-The rounded backs of the elbows and the large surface area of the intakes help prevent the vortex from forming.
1a.Would It benefit or hurt me if i used 1.5inch bulkheads or would i have to use 1 inch bulkheads as in the original diagram.


If its beneficial to go with 1.5 inch bulkheads,
1b.Would using full curved 90 degree elbows on the intakes as opposed to regular 90 degree elbows be of any benefit. Im assuming if i stayed with 1inch bulkhead design the street elbows flow better/have the larger surface area intake than regular 90 elbows

I have seen several posts about having the main siphon bulkhead drilled lower than the open channel standpipe.
2.Is it necessary or do i drill all 3 bulkheads at the same height?

I read a thread about someone accidentally drilling their tank overflow too high and then having no other option but to buy a new tank. I know each distance from the center of the circle being drilled will vary with the size of the circle being drilled. Keeping in mind im either going to drill 1 or 1.5 inch bulkheads
3.What is a safe distance to drill from:
The top edge of the glass to the top edge of the circle
The edge of a circle to the edge of the circle adjacent to it
My plan was to use a 1200gph pump i have on hand for my returns. This was with regards to my math of running around 900-1000gph with headloss and a 1.5 inch bulkhead draining around 850 gph.
4.Would this pump work with my setup?according to me it will but im a noob. I was thinking the main siphon would flow up to 800gph and i could adjust the open channel to handle the rest?

Valid questions, but they've all been asked and explained in detail dozens of times.. Gotta read the entire thread. An added benefit is you'll learn some things you weren't aware you were supposed to be aware of.

 

[saltines]

Ive read a few dozen pages near the beginning,end of the thread as well as skimmed through random pages. The reason im asking these already answered questions to get reassurance from experienced reefers as opposed to making a novice mistake. I dont want to sound insubordinate but youre asking me to read 235 pages spanning over the length of 4 or so years. Through what i have read so far here are my concluded opinions/answers

1a. With the flow im going to be running a 1 inch bulkhead should handle the flow i want with bean animals setup. I have yet to find a definitive answer to this from what ive read so far. Would i be able to achieve the same results just downsizing my intake to 1.25 inch if needed to replicate beans setup? Although from his statement a larger intake is going to reduce the chance of vortexes forming so im not sure why would even run 1 inch bulkheads and intakes.

1b. if i stayed with 1inch bulkhead design id just use street elbows and disregard full curve 90s.That being said in regards to flow with 1.5" on the full curved 90 elbows, I know almost for a fact they will flow better. What i havent confirmed yet is wether the better flow is going to compromise anything else.

2. Ive only read recomendations that its easier to get the siphon started if it sits anywhere between 1/4-1/2 an inch higher but. Again im confused because this isnt part of the original diagram, only a recommendation for people having hard time restarting their system.

3. Top of the hole needs to be 2.375" down from the top edge of the glass. Input on side to side distance is double the diameter of whatever hole youre drilling. ANSWERED

4.Im just plain confused Because i have yet to comprehend how much flow i will actually be running with a given diameter pipe. My calculations were based off of bulkheads being drained off of gravity and not full siphons.

 

[BeanAnimal]

.Would It benefit or hurt me if i used 1.5inch bulkheads or would i have to use 1 inch bulkheads as in the original diagram.

It will not hurt, but there is no real benefit if you are not going to go abe a few thousand GPH. If you feel likey paying a bit more and taking up a bit more room, then no problem.

Would using full curved 90 degree elbows on the intakes as opposed to regular 90 degree elbows be of any benefit.

Im assuming if i stayed with 1inch bulkhead design the street elbows flow better/have the larger surface area intake than regular 90 elbows

You lost me there. Are you asking about long sweep 90s? If so, then no you don't need them. To that end, they may make the siphon hard to start.

I have seen several posts about having the main siphon bulkhead drilled lower than the open channel standpipe.
2.Is it necessary or do i drill all 3 bulkheads at the same height?

No need if the system is setup as published. It will not hurt anything though.

I read a thread about someone accidentally drilling their tank overflow too high and then having no other option but to buy a new tank. I know each distance from the center of the circle being drilled will vary with the size of the circle being drilled. Keeping in mind im either going to drill 1 or 1.5 inch bulkheads
3.What is a safe distance to drill from:
The top edge of the glass to the top edge of the circle

The safe accepted minimum distance is at least 2 times the actual hole diameter. So if the hole is 2" then the top edge of the hole should be 4" from the top edge of the glass.

was with regards to my math of running around 900-1000gph with headloss and a 1.5 inch bulkhead draining around 850 gph.
4.Would this pump work with my setup?according to me it will but im a noob. I was thinking the main siphon would flow up to 800gph and i could adjust the open channel to handle the rest?

The system (as published) will handle around 2500 GPH silently with headroom. It can go to maybe 3000 on a typical setup but is pushing the edge of stability and noise (siphon valve fully open with a chance for noise in the open channe due to capacity).

 

[BeanAnimal]

Valid questions, but they've all been asked and explained in detail dozens of times.. Gotta read the entire thread. An added benefit is you'll learn some things you weren't aware you were supposed to be aware of.

The advice to read the entire thread is very good but it never hurts to answer questions directly, instead of sending folks on a frustrating quest.

 

[Overgrown]

The advice to read the entire thread is very good but it never hurts to answer questions directly, instead of sending folks on a frustrating quest.

I dedicated an entire weekend to it, and even made a photo collage of all the threads I found relevant so as to lessen the inordinate " What a killer overflow!" filler content which comprises roughly 30% of the thread. Can be frustrating to be sure, but google can overcome some tribulation with a few choice key words. Personally it was critical for me to pore through every page, as there were a few design aspects that wouldn't have occurred to me otherwise. Took awhile but was a worthy read.

 

[shelk]

finished setting up today, works like a charm, thanks to everyone ivolved on this topic

 

[batman3n1]

Where to Buy the Elbow

Where to Buy the Elbow

If the open channel standpipe is perfectly vertical from display-to-basement, the water may fall straight through the center of the pipe, causing noise as it does. Also with such a long drop, water running down the pipe wall accelerate due to gravity. The friction of the pipe wall will tend to keep SOME of it from accelerating. At some point the water begins to tumble (causing noise) in the standpipe.

Slightly leaning the standpipe to one side will help the water to run down one wall instead of tumbling to the basement. This is not a "must-do" but can help in some instances.

Hi BeanAnimal... I cannot tell you how hard I have looked for a 1.25"x1" Slip to Spigot elbow like the one in your CAD diagram. No one seems to know what I'm talking about. I have all the other parts except that one. Can you please direct me to where I can buy these. Also, my overflow box is only 14 inches long on a 48" tank. I don't want it the whole length of the tank. Is that going to be a problem? Many thanks... :headwally:

Randy

 

[Fish_Time]

Hi BeanAnimal... I cannot tell you how hard I have looked for a 1.25"x1" Slip to Spigot elbow like the one in your CAD diagram. No one seems to know what I'm talking about. I have all the other parts except that one. Can you please direct me to where I can buy these. Many thanks... :headwally:

Randy

Is this the fitting you are referring to?
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MUELLER-INDUSTRIES-Reducing-Elbow-5WPA9
and
http://www.national-pool-care.com/servlet/the-29387/LASCO-FLUID-DISTRIBUTION-PRODU/Detail

 

[batman3n1]

Is this the fitting you are referring to?
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MUELLER-INDUSTRIES-Reducing-Elbow-5WPA9
and
http://www.national-pool-care.com/servlet/the-29387/LASCO-FLUID-DISTRIBUTION-PRODU/Detail

FishTime... I called both places... both are slip to slip, not slip to spigot (street)
:twitch:

 

[batman3n1]

Anybody?

Anybody?

Does ANYBODY know where to get the 1.25" slip x 1" spigot (street) elbow??? Otherwise I'm gonna have to have an overflow made custom and I'd really rather not. Problem is all the ready made ones are not deep enough for the entire elbow to fit in them, so I have to have the the "slip" on the 1" side that's supposed to slide into the 1" bulkhead. :uhoh3: What has everyone else done for that part. I can't be the only one not able to locate it, am I? Very frustrating.

 

[uncleof6]

Does ANYBODY know where to get the 1.25" slip x 1" spigot (street) elbow??? Otherwise I'm gonna have to have an overflow made custom and I'd really rather not. Problem is all the ready made ones are not deep enough for the entire elbow to fit in them, so I have to have the the "slip" on the 1" side that's supposed to slide into the 1" bulkhead. :uhoh3: What has everyone else done for that part. I can't be the only one not able to locate it, am I? Very frustrating.

Why spend your time being frustrated? You don't need that fitting. Any elbow will do. Give yourself a break today.

In terms of the overflow: Prefabbed overflows are NOT preferred. Any way you slice it, they will not perform well, if you can't get the elbows in them--without driving yourself to a case of Budweiser...they are too small.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Hi BeanAnimal... I cannot tell you how hard I have looked for a 1.25"x1" Slip to Spigot elbow like the one in your CAD diagram. No one seems to know what I'm talking about. I have all the other parts except that one. Can you please direct me to where I can buy these. Also, my overflow box is only 14 inches long on a 48" tank. I don't want it the whole length of the tank. Is that going to be a problem? Many thanks... :headwally:

Randy

I am not aware of that part still being made by anybody, but the SLIPxSLIP part will work fine. Just cut a small section of pipe to create the Spigot

 

[rayr18]

BeAn Animal with split refugium and sump

BeAn Animal with split refugium and sump

Hi Everyone,

I need some advice....I am in the process of building a Bean animal overflow and want to split the flow from the main to a separate refugium (20 g) and sump (20 g) for my 75 g tank. Could someone please give me some ideas on the most efficient way to get water to the sump and refugium and then return back to the main tank?

Thanks

need an :idea:

 

[kirucd]

Hello,

I just made 2 overflow boxes from acryl, similar with the comercial ones,
but with bean animal system. Looking great and seems that are going to
work great. Thanks Bean animal for your contribution to reefers comunity

And some tests with the second overflow:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEWIMShMkN4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uvXcFveytM

 

[uncleof6]

Hi Everyone,

I need some advice....I am in the process of building a Bean animal overflow and want to split the flow from the main to a separate refugium (20 g) and sump (20 g) for my 75 g tank. Could someone please give me some ideas on the most efficient way to get water to the sump and refugium and then return back to the main tank?

Thanks

need an :idea:

Easy one. Use a branch in the return plumbing to feed the fuge. This has been discussed a 1000 times.

Splitting the siphon line into two different areas, will more than likely mess with the dynamics of the system. As with ALL modifications to the original design, this "messing" could be nill, or a complete failure of the system. It is not easy to predict. What is very predictable, is that the system functions well as designed. If making modifications, you are on your own, as there isn't time available to test every "modification" that rears up.

Immediately, one of the issues is different water levels at both outlets...

It is not recommended that you split drain lines, whether they be siphons or open channels (Durso style ad infinitum.)

 

[rayr18]

Thanks Uncleof6...I appreciate your response...I thought that it may be an issue to split the drain, but wasn't sure....I will split off the return to feed water to the fuge.

 

[CJBROWN]

Yes, I figured that.
So, why not drill another hole in the back of one of boxes for a full siphon pipe, or could I do that for both boxes? Set the existing internal pipes to a wet, or one as an emergency overflow, or a fourth emergency?
Step to 1-1/4 pipe.

If I did this could I bring the two siphons to one exit with a valve? Or will they not work together?

Other suggestions for two internal drain boxes?

Bump again. Still looking for help on this.

Best way to configure two internal overflow boxes. The tank came with them and they are bottom drilled. Looking for about 900gph sump flow.

 

[wonrib00]

Chris, if you joined the two overflows with PVC close to the bottom of the tank, and covered the PVC with sand, you should be ok. Just make sure there are no leaks. This would allow too much water to come in and would defeat the idea of the overflow.

 

[CJBROWN]

Chris, if you joined the two overflows with PVC close to the bottom of the tank, and covered the PVC with sand, you should be ok. Just make sure there are no leaks. This would allow too much water to come in and would defeat the idea of the overflow.

Great idea. I was thinking of joining them with a weir between them but it's a 60" long tank so I think it would be too long to make work nicely, and it would create a shadow so I prefer to just leave the two boxes. I can setup the bean drains between the two of them.
Thanks!!

 

[KindCorals]

Hey guys, my tank finally arrived but a couple things have come up. First, the holes were not drilled as far down as I requested which may or may not be a problem. Second, I with I would have thought about getting a wave box before my tank was built but I was thinking about altering the overflow. I want to lower the highest part by about 5/8" and that would put the water line just below the top of the drilled holes. There will still be plenty of room for the down facing elbows to be under water. Before I go ahead with the mod, can you think of any issues this may cause?

Here's a pic: