Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[Jimbojames]

Ok now my new problem is the sound of water going into the over flow box.

Is the water lever to low for the box? it sounds like a waterfall?

IF i turn the pump all the way up, i feel that i get to much water in the open channel, and has that make a noise

im using a reeflo dart and 1.5 in pvc and 1 in bulk head. my overflow box seems a little small about 1800 gph,

 

[Mrramsey]

Ok now my new problem is the sound of water going into the over flow box.

Is the water lever to low for the box? it sounds like a waterfall?

IF i turn the pump all the way up, i feel that i get to much water in the open channel

im using a reeflo dart and 1.5 in pvc and 1 in bulk head. my overflow box seems a little small about 1800 gph,

I find my sweet spot to be when the water level just covers the top of the elbows

 

[Jimbojames]

can i change size of air line tubing, will that help?

 

[Mrramsey]

I don't think that's the problem unless you are getting a slurping sound. If you are raise it up just a little. Most people use ro tubing. I used 1/4" ID vinyl tubing.

 

[Jimbojames]

alright i feel that there is to much water going into the open channel, no mstter what i try and how i try to tune it

 

[Mrramsey]

Is your return to the DT straight from the pump or do you have a tee on the return line to recirculate water back to the sump. My return line tees off with a line to my fuge and one to the skimmer chamber. I can use these to fine tune the flow to the DT. I leave the valve to the DT open all the way.

I fine tune the water level in the overflow this way.

 

[drew2007]

Going to be setting up a 120g DT with a 40 breeder sump. What size plumbing do you guys recommend? I may do a coast to coast or a gh overflow.

 

[Jimbojames]

if i close the open channel i can get this thing running super nice, whys that?

 

[Jimbojames]

Is your return to the DT straight from the pump or do you have a tee on the return line to recirculate water back to the sump. My return line tees off with a line to my fuge and one to the skimmer chamber. I can use these to fine tune the flow to the DT. I leave the valve to the DT open all the way.

I fine tune the water level in the overflow this way.

pump is to the DT

 

[FrancoS]

OK I was not sure of the construction. I would think 12mm glass would be fine but add triangular pieces to support the bottom of the overflow. The idea I am trying to illustrate is to make the back glass and overflow act as one solid structural component. If there is not adequate support disaster will strike.

In your drawing the center braces attached to the front not then to the short depth back of the overflow. That narrow piece of glass would easily be stressed and break.

I will try to draw up a sketch tomorrow morning.

Ok MrRamsey, I now fully understood your point... I will now update my drawing and will upload it later on for you to assess the modifications... If then this is still not so good I'll then opt for a more traditional design...

 

[Mrramsey]

pump is to the DT

I have a tee off of my return to fine tune the flow to the DT. The more I open these the less flow to the tank. The one on the right dumps back into the sump and the left into the refugium.

 

[Jimbojames]

still the same problem open pipe is taking to much water, of i change other pipe to allow more flow then overflow box make water flow noise.

can i cut elbows to make the shorter so there far away from the bottom overflow box. or add pvc so they are closer to the bottom of the box?

if i turn the 2nd pipe with the tube in up upwards it works great. WHY

 

[uncleof6]

still the same problem open pipe is taking to much water, of i change other pipe to allow more flow then overflow box make water flow noise.

can i cut elbows to make the shorter so there far away from the bottom overflow box. or add pvc so they are closer to the bottom of the box?

if i turn the 2nd pipe with the tube in up upwards it works great. WHY

1 of four things:

1) Air vent line too low in the overflow->needs to be above the inlet of the dry emergency.

2) Pipes too deep in the sump->drain outlets need to be less than 1" below water level in the sump.

3) Configuration issue->i.e. horizontal runs in the siphon line.

4) Air leaks in the siphon line.

All four issues cause the same result: the main siphon does not fully kick in. The system cannot be properly adjusted till the main siphon fully kicks in. That is why, when you change this or that, all of a sudden the system seems to work "better."

It needs to be remembered that there are no mysterious problems with this drain system. All problems are due to the system not being implemented correctly. When you have an issue, you need to go back and look at every detail: they all matter.

 

[koala]

My setup (120 gallons tank):

- internal box (acrylic)
- 2 large (2") holes in lateral of tank
- external box (glass) with the three pipes.
- 1" pipes (25 mm)
- 5.000 liters/hour (~ 1.325 gall/hour)- recirculation pump

Everything works perfectly!...

Many thanks, mr. BeanAnimal!

 

[FrancoS]

OK I was not sure of the construction. I would think 12mm glass would be fine but add triangular pieces to support the bottom of the overflow. The idea I am trying to illustrate is to make the back glass and overflow act as one solid structural component. If there is not adequate support disaster will strike.

In your drawing the center braces attached to the front not then to the short depth back of the overflow. That narrow piece of glass would easily be stressed and break.

I will try to draw up a sketch tomorrow morning.

Hi MrRamsey... I updated the design to increase the support on the overflow... Added the triangular pieces and also an internal support which should not affect the functionality of the overflow in general. Also added support on the back glass/side of tank. (All changes in Red)


What do you think now?





FS

 

[Mrramsey]

I think it is much better now. Maybe move the intermediate that are in the overflow up half way so water can freely flow under them and not trap any debris. The expense of doing it like this will likely be higher since this is entirely a custom fabricated tank.

 

[FrancoS]

I think it is much better now. Maybe move the intermediate that are in the overflow up half way so water can freely flow under them and not trap any debris. The expense of doing it like this will likely be higher since this is entirely a custom fabricated tank.

Hi thanks Mike, good idea...

Well here (Malta EU) aquariums are very expensive and thus I'm going to try and build it... that's why I wanted a design were holes etc are avoided .... and I think it would look better if an internal overflow is not used and instead use the back glass as a full length coast-to-coast...

 

[Jimbojames]

1 of four things:

1) Air vent line too low in the overflow->needs to be above the inlet of the dry emergency.

2) Pipes too deep in the sump->drain outlets need to be less than 1" below water level in the sump.

3) Configuration issue->i.e. horizontal runs in the siphon line.

4) Air leaks in the siphon line.

All four issues cause the same result: the main siphon does not fully kick in. The system cannot be properly adjusted till the main siphon fully kicks in. That is why, when you change this or that, all of a sudden the system seems to work "better."

It needs to be remembered that there are no mysterious problems with this drain system. All problems are due to the system not being implemented correctly. When you have an issue, you need to go back and look at every detail: they all matter.

I have all pipes drop down then they go into a 90 degree elbows. Is this my problem?

If so can I just change my 90 to a 45? Can I just change it on the full siphon or I have to change all?

 

[Mrramsey]

Its always best to make the lines as straight as possible.

 

[Jimbojames]

So a 45 degree fitting won't fit, so I need to use a hose or something, any ideas on what will work best