Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Sorry, pics didn't work the first time.

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/109839494@N02/13952790468" title="whole tank by Brian Brigg, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7357/13952790468_ecf999822e_c.jpg" width="800" height="409" alt="whole tank"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/109839494@N02/14136094821" title="tank by Brian Brigg, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2909/14136094821_cea43ed696_c.jpg" width="800" height="409" alt="tank"></a>
 
Need some help. I'm going to use a ghost overflow on my 120g with 40 breeder sump with a bean. I'm undecided which one to get. My plans are to use either a eheim 1262 or sicce 4 for return pump. Some say the larger for more surface skimming and some say the smaller one is plenty. Any advice is much appreciated.

http://reefsavvy.com/ghost-overflow/
 
Overflow length for a 120g (4ft) should be just under 48" in length. (The inside length of the tank.) Neither the 24" or the 16" are suitable for a 4ft. 120 gallon tank. Some saying 16" or 24" is plenty, are some that do not understand the principles involved with weirs, and surface skimming/surface renewal.) That said, longer is going to be better than shorter everytime, no exceptions.

Since you have to punch holes in the tank anyway, (2,) there is absolutely no reason to purchase the "ghost overflow" kit. Since Bean's system is intended to be run directly out the back of the tank, without an external box, you are spending $ on stuff you do not need. You have to make the internal overflow (far too easy to do, two pieces of glass/acrylic; glass preferred) and punch three holes in the back.

There is enough information in this thread to complete the job start to finsih without spending money on templates, pre-made parts, etc.
 
So basically do a coast to coast type internal overflow and follow the specs for piping it out like on beans site? The only thing that worries me is not having the teeth on the overflow and fish hitching a ride down the drain and/or possibly clogging the drains.
 
So basically do a coast to coast type internal overflow and follow the specs for piping it out like on beans site? The only thing that worries me is not having the teeth on the overflow and fish hitching a ride down the drain and/or possibly clogging the drains.

If you are worried about this there are also posts in this thread, and some from bean himself about making a lid over the weir.
 
So basically do a coast to coast type internal overflow and follow the specs for piping it out like on beans site? The only thing that worries me is not having the teeth on the overflow and fish hitching a ride down the drain and/or possibly clogging the drains.

The teeth on the overflow don't keep fish or anything else out of the overflow anyway. It is sort of silly actually. I don't consider covering the overflow to be very worthwhile either.
 
The teeth on the overflow don't keep fish or anything else out of the overflow anyway. It is sort of silly actually. I don't consider covering the overflow to be very worthwhile either.

True. Ok so here's one idea if I do coast to coast. Tell me if this sounds ok.

Internal box dimension - 36"Lx 4"Wx6"H leaving room for returns on each side.
Drill back of tank for 1" bulkheads and go with exact specs of beans design.
 
drew200722754484 said:
True. Ok so here's one idea if I do coast to coast. Tell me if this sounds ok.

Internal box dimension - 36"Lx 4"Wx6"H leaving room for returns on each side.
Drto ill back of tank for 1" bulkheads and go with exact specs of beans design.

Im gonna chime in here and tell you that I just finished mine and the dimentions are as follows on a 48" 120 gal. 42"x4"x6" ..... it worked out perfect for me and the overflow works flawless....just as advertised.
 
Thanks for the pics. I assume u did 1 1/2" pipe

Yes sir, just as Mr Bean Animal himself..... after reading a lot of posts here, I realized there is no reason to try to re-invent the wheel so to speak.So I tried to follow his design as close as possible.Asked a few questions....and it turned out great!
 
That Grainger link appears to me not to be street elbows. Am I seeing it wrong? I am having some trouble finding these, any help would be appreciated.
 
Yes sir, just as Mr Bean Animal himself..... after reading a lot of posts here, I realized there is no reason to try to re-invent the wheel so to speak.So I tried to follow his design as close as possible.Asked a few questions....and it turned out great!

Awesome! Thanks for your help! :beer:
 
GE 1 or any type of aquarium safe silicone.

With "advanced" system design, we try to raise the bar a bit above junk silicone such as Silicone I. Dow Corning 735, or 999A is a cut way above Silicone I, up to and including the best you can use which is Momentive RTV100 series or SCS1200 series silicones. No one in the "pro" side of things, even for overflows, sump baffles or anything else, uses Silicone I.
 
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