Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

I have all pipes drop down then they go into a 90 degree elbows. Is this my problem?

If so can I just change my 90 to a 45? Can I just change it on the full siphon or I have to change all?
Yes, the 90 degree elbows = big problem!

I have all the pipes with 45 degree elbows and everything work perfectly.
 
So a 45 degree fitting won't fit, so I need to use a hose or something, any ideas on what will work best

45° fittings always work, just got to change a few things around... ;)

Only problem with tubing is it reduces the working diameter of the system, which lowers the flow capacity. It is very restrictive at the fittings 1" down to 3/4" or less, etc... If wanting to use flex, use spa-flex, not tubing.
 
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What should be the external overflow chamber size for a 180g tank (72"x24"x24") using bean animal's system? My pump is 900 G/h including head loss. Should I use 1 1/4 bulkheads and pipes?
 
I have 3- 1-1/4" x 1" street 90's exiting through 1" bulkheads into 1-1/2" sanitary Tee's and pipe..............
My question is this. I drilled all 3 holes at the same elevation, should I add a extension to the full syphon to make the inlet lower than the open channel?
 
No, there is no reason to do that. If you are experiencing starting issues or other problems with the system. Take a close look at the way you have everything else setup. All the issues are due to faulty implementation, and the siphon being lower than the open channel, is not needed if everything is setup right. If you have a specific issue, post it, and we can go from there.
 
What should be the external overflow chamber size for a 180g tank (72"x24"x24") using bean animal's system? My pump is 900 G/h including head loss. Should I use 1 1/4 bulkheads and pipes?

It depends on the system...there is no set 'size' for boxes. @ less than 900 gph (and it will be less than that, how much less depends on the pump,) 1" bulkheads will suffice. For a tank that size running at an optimum flow rate (of 1800 gph,) you would want 1.5" bulkheads.
 
I'm wondering about the use of sanitary T's in the design- why are they used on all 3 pipes? I can see how it simplifies adding an air line to the open channel, but why not simply use 2 90* elbows on the siphon and emergency channels? Is there something I'm missing?
 
No, there is no reason to do that. If you are experiencing starting issues or other problems with the system. Take a close look at the way you have everything else setup. All the issues are due to faulty implementation, and the siphon being lower than the open channel, is not needed if everything is setup right. If you have a specific issue, post it, and we can go from there.
Thank you sir, I shouldn't have any issues. I hope.
 
Help with a clog?

Help with a clog?

So my overflow system was working great for a year. No problems at start up and pretty easy to tune.

About 4 months ago, the siphon standpipe seemed to slowly clog. I would open the gate valve all the way and I would be able to eventually get flow down the siphon standpipe again, allowing me to dial the system back in. The strange thing was I never saw anything flush through the system, no debris or snails or anything.

Beginning a couple of weeks ago, even when I open the siphon line gate valve all the way, I am never able to get flow back through the siphon line. The Open channel is just filled with air perpetually. Not only is it noisy, but I am unable to skim properly.

My problem clearly seems like some kind of clog, but I haven't been able to find anything. I've move the air line around to see if that was the problem, but nothing changes. Tonight, I took the siphon pipe off the system and didn't see any critters or algae growing inside. Maybe I have snails in the sanitary tee that I can't seem to get out?

Has anyone had a similar experience? What am I missing? :headwalls:
 
Use a stiff bottle brush and brush everything out, the siphon, the open channel, dry emergency. (including all ells, tees, etc.) Reassemble the system, and start the adjustment procedure over from the start. The system is just not going to slow down all by itself. If the water level in the sump raises, the siphon will slow down due to shorter drop...things like that need to be looked at as well. Build up on the walls of the pipes will reduce the diameter, and reduce the flow as well. You may not see something stuck or growing in there but time and slime will reduce the diameter.
 
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Hi I am building a QT tank and wanted to know if I can user 3/4 pipe. The tank is 35 gallons and no snails would be in this tank however small fish will be. Do you think this would be an issue? Or should I just go with 1" pipe?
 
Have been wondering the same thing....

Have been wondering the same thing....

To add to the below quoted post...

Could a guy not simply tap the open channel internal 90 and add a riser tube that would submerge if the siphon channel plugged some how. I've just never understood the need for all the added external plumbing. If there is a specific reason please enlighten me..

Thanks
newsaltfan

I'm wondering about the use of sanitary T's in the design- why are they used on all 3 pipes? I can see how it simplifies adding an air line to the open channel, but why not simply use 2 90* elbows on the siphon and emergency channels? Is there something I'm missing?
 
To add to the below quoted post...

Could a guy not simply tap the open channel internal 90 and add a riser tube that would submerge if the siphon channel plugged some how. I've just never understood the need for all the added external plumbing. If there is a specific reason please enlighten me..

Thanks
newsaltfan

Nothing in the directions indicate that a tee of any kind is needed. That said, the tee and cap make it far more convenient to clean out the drain lines, which is required periodic maintenance for any drain line.
 
Hi there. I've been reading this thread for several days now and I still have some questions. I'm putting together a square freshwater planted tank 1.5 meters a side with a 50cm square overflow right in the middle of the tank. This means that I will drill the bottom of the tank for the overflow and, since my sump is outside in the garage, the Bean Animal looks like the best option to go with for silent operation.

Two of the standpipes will look like Dursos, one drilled with an air tube and one not while the middle pipe will simply have a strainer stuck in the top to act as the emergency standpipe. The emergency pipe height will be about a half inch higher than the top of the elbow outlets on the full siphon and the open channel. Can I leave the elbows on the full siphon and the open channel unglued like a normal Durso?

The water volume of this will be about 350 gallons. What size pipes should I use for each.
 
Shes up and shes running...Only issue is water passing through gate valve on syphon is a bit noisy. Will that quiet down do i need to tune her alittle more?
And for the sake of saving some space in my sump,can I turn my 3 returns down one more time with 45s? I would like to put my skimmer in the same area before my refugium.
 
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The way I am setting this tank up is shown in the pictures below. The three standpipes are 1.5 inch while the inlets are 3/4 split into 2 x 1/2 inch at the tees.
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I haven't included the air inlet hose in the open channel. Lack of skills.

The overflow is just over an inch lower than the tank sides while the top of the horizontal outlet of the tees on the siphon and open channels are level with the top of the overflow.

Will this be enough to establish a full siphon or should I put the tees lower down?
 
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